Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

Just use rubber hoses, what's the problem.

i

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On 11/22/2011 6:49 PM, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

I have had PVC air line in my business for 12 years. Runs 125 psi all
day, 5 days a week. We have never had a break. Scared me to death, but
my late partner had it installed before I was part of the company.

Almost all the pipes lower than 20 ft are steel, however, and all I have
put in are steel.

The more immediate and lasting problem is sag in the horizontal PVC
distribution lines. Moisture collects there until there is a big release
of air further down the line and then liquid comes out the end. The PVC
could not be placed so there was a continuous slope downward.

We have filters and a refrigerated air dryer in the line and that is a
late addition. Most of the water vapor doesn't make it to the PVC, now.

Paul
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES


Cost, Iggy.




On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:53:25 -0600, Ignoramus8003
wrote:

Just use rubber hoses, what's the problem.

i

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

Thanks, Paul.

I feel better. What size are the pipes?


Joe

On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 19:23:00 -0800, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 11/22/2011 6:49 PM, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

I have had PVC air line in my business for 12 years. Runs 125 psi all
day, 5 days a week. We have never had a break. Scared me to death, but
my late partner had it installed before I was part of the company.

Almost all the pipes lower than 20 ft are steel, however, and all I have
put in are steel.

The more immediate and lasting problem is sag in the horizontal PVC
distribution lines. Moisture collects there until there is a big release
of air further down the line and then liquid comes out the end. The PVC
could not be placed so there was a continuous slope downward.

We have filters and a refrigerated air dryer in the line and that is a
late addition. Most of the water vapor doesn't make it to the PVC, now.

Paul



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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:

Cost, Iggy.


Cost of rubber hoses? You gotta be kidding me, they are very cheap.

i



On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:53:25 -0600, Ignoramus8003
wrote:

Just use rubber hoses, what's the problem.

i

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:53:25 -0600, Ignoramus8003
wrote:

Just use rubber hoses, what's the problem.

i

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

I like the mesh reinforced vinyl tubing myself
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

There's white PVC, and the slightly colored CPVC. I'm not
sure if one has higher pressure rating.

How far do you have to go? And roughly how many fittings?
I'd want to take a look at black iron. You might find the
price difference isn't all that much. Might be worth it, for
the peace of mind. Since you're buying both PVC and the wire
mesh stuff.

That, or air hose from Harbor Freight, which might not be
all that much safer.

One place I know, put in over head iron pipe. Neglected the
drip legs, so their air power disk sanders spit water, in
the summer. No good.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"justme" wrote in message
...
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am
thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am
thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating
compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that
has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a
tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the
wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE
KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH
OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN
USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe


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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On 2011-11-23, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:53:25 -0600, Ignoramus8003
wrote:

Just use rubber hoses, what's the problem.

i

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

I like the mesh reinforced vinyl tubing myself
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Easy and safe and cheap.

i
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES


"Ignoramus8003" wrote in message
...
On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:

Cost, Iggy.


Cost of rubber hoses? You gotta be kidding me, they are very cheap.

i


I buy rubber hoses at yard sales. I just bought a 50 footer with fittings
for $3. Still was tied with those little plastic ribbons. Made in USA
rubber hose.

If I was to do a system, I'd do it in copper, or rubber, as you suggest. OP
seems set on doing it in PVC, and has an agenda to disprove others. I'd
advise to just build it, and go for it, and see what happens. What's the
worst that could happen? Blindness?

Steve




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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On 2011-11-23, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus8003" wrote in message
...
On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:

Cost, Iggy.


Cost of rubber hoses? You gotta be kidding me, they are very cheap.

i


I buy rubber hoses at yard sales. I just bought a 50 footer with fittings
for $3. Still was tied with those little plastic ribbons. Made in USA
rubber hose.


I usually get it for free, as in, "and please take this crap also".

If I was to do a system, I'd do it in copper, or rubber, as you suggest. OP
seems set on doing it in PVC, and has an agenda to disprove others. I'd
advise to just build it, and go for it, and see what happens. What's the
worst that could happen? Blindness?


The PVC pieces might destroy his balls.

Really, PVC hose is safe, cheap, easy to work with, no problems.

i
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On 11/22/2011 7:39 PM, justme wrote:
Thanks, Paul.

I feel better. What size are the pipes?


Joe

They are 1/2", Joe.

Just wait 12 hours or so after gluing sections, before applying air
pressure.

Paul
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On Nov 22, 8:53*pm, Ignoramus8003
wrote:
Just use rubber hoses, what's the problem.

i

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:



Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. *I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.


Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.


Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.


I expect the nay sayers to say: *DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. *To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.


What say?


Thanks


Joe- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I agree...if money is tight just use hoses.

I have seen "temp setups" with hoses that are over 20 years old.

If you need high volume, go iron pipe.

TMT
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On Nov 22, 8:49*pm, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. *I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: *DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. *To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe


FWIW...the danger in PVC is that the oil mist from the compressor WILL
cause failure in the PVC.

Also if you are unlucky enough to crack the PVC physically by bumping
it hard while it is under pressure, it will explode with fragments
flying everywhere.

And if this is a business setting, the code inspectors will make you
rip it out and your insurance company will pull your insurance.

TMT
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:33:23 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Ignoramus8003" wrote in message
m...
On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:

Cost, Iggy.


Cost of rubber hoses? You gotta be kidding me, they are very cheap.

i


I buy rubber hoses at yard sales. I just bought a 50 footer with fittings
for $3. Still was tied with those little plastic ribbons. Made in USA
rubber hose.

I got 154 feet of 1/4" vinyl for $3 , but they wouldn't throw in the
dirty, greasy wooden box they had stored it in. (I was wondering how I
could dispose of the box!
It cost me about $10 to rig it up on a hose reel meant for garden
hose.
If I was to do a system, I'd do it in copper, or rubber, as you suggest. OP
seems set on doing it in PVC, and has an agenda to disprove others. I'd
advise to just build it, and go for it, and see what happens. What's the
worst that could happen? Blindness?

Steve

Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES


"Ignoramus8003" wrote in message
...
On 2011-11-23, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:53:25 -0600, Ignoramus8003
wrote:

Just use rubber hoses, what's the problem.

i

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

I like the mesh reinforced vinyl tubing myself
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Easy and safe and cheap.

i


Or the polypropylene or whatever it is black reticulation pipe - the heavier
stuff used commercially or on farms.


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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:49:48 -0600, justme wrote:

Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?


If you can afford PVC Pipe and fittings, you can afford cheap imported
Black Iron (really steel) pipe - they sell a lot of it for natural gas
lines. Take the time to do it right, or don't bother and get lots of
hoses.

They have the plastic coated rust resistant stuff too if you need to
bury an air feed between the garage and house - coat the fitting with
sealant, then wrap the fittings in the special tape and slather
another coat of sealant over the tape to keep the water out.

Do Not use Galvanized pipe, the zinc flakes off and gets into the
tools and valves.

And your 'Wrap chicken wire around the PVC " plan is doomed for
failure - there is a LOT of captive energy there...

Run the riser up to the rafters from the compressor and refrigerated
dryer or aftercooler, then when it changes to horizontal to head off
into the shop leave a slight downhill - maybe 1/4" per 10' to the far
end of the room - where you put an elbow and a drain leg down to a
drain valve you can reach. Drain it every few weeks - you'll be
shocked how much water coalesces out in the lines.

Do NOT buy lots of couplings - buy mostly Tees and Plugs, and put a
tee every length of pipe with the third hole POINTED UP to the roof -
when you realize you need a new drop there, you just pull the threaded
pipe plug out of the tee and go.

If you plan to wait 20 years and then add a new drop by cutting the
Black pipe and threading it for a new tee, FUHGEDDABOUDIT. You'll
either snap off an old fitting, or twist the old connections and
create a dozen leaks... And eventually between the hissing leaks and
compressor cycling every fifteen minutes it will drive you mad, and
you have to take The Whole Damn System Apart and start over.

The tap legs go UP from the main line for a few inches so if there is
any moisture in the air you leave it trapped in the main line - and
eventually it'll work it's way to that drain leg at the far end. Then
you go horizontal over to the wall, and drop down to your drop
fittings.

Oh, and put another tee there with another butterfly drain valve on
the drip-leg, so if any water gets that far it's stopped again. Water
in your air is bad news.

If you have the money you use Copper pipe - but you build it the exact
same way with the drip legs everywhere, and up-legs to leave the water
behind. Except you can skip the tees, it's easy enough to cut in one
and solder or braze the tap tee as needed. (No threading in place.)

I use Silver Braze on Copper for Air (or refrigerant) - that way your
Plumber doesn't think it's a Water line he can tap into. Which can
get exciting.

-- Bruce --
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

On Nov 22, 4:49*pm, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. *I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: *DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. *To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe


How about PEX tubing?
Karl
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

justme wrote:

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?


Every once and a while a bit of clorine in the gene pool is useful.

Wes
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
...


I used all of my garden hose once to pressure test a used tank, tied to the
far side of a big tree way back in the woods. The hose withstood 125PSI
without significant leaks.

I changed my airline from plastic to sloped and water-trapped iron after
reading the issues here. Is hose taped to strapping considered a safe
alternative?

jsw




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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

I wondered about the Ts pointing up, but it made sense
later. Don't want water to rust and corrode the threads for
the plugs.

When I did a bit of pipe fitting, my old boss used to use
teflon tape, plus yellow Rectorseal #5 on the exterior /
male threads. That combination seemed to do good.

A union or two in the system makes it easier to take apart.
In theory, the unions mating surface doesn't need
Rectorseal, but the threads to the black iron do need teflon
and rectorseal.

I'd think it would make sense to spray paint the air pipe,
so it's different color than the other utilities. Water is
blue, natural gas is yellow. Fire protection is red. So,
what's that leave?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message
...

If you can afford PVC Pipe and fittings, you can afford
cheap imported
Black Iron (really steel) pipe - they sell a lot of it for
natural gas
lines. Take the time to do it right, or don't bother and
get lots of
hoses.

They have the plastic coated rust resistant stuff too if you
need to
bury an air feed between the garage and house - coat the
fitting with
sealant, then wrap the fittings in the special tape and
slather
another coat of sealant over the tape to keep the water out.

Do Not use Galvanized pipe, the zinc flakes off and gets
into the
tools and valves.

And your 'Wrap chicken wire around the PVC " plan is doomed
for
failure - there is a LOT of captive energy there...

Run the riser up to the rafters from the compressor and
refrigerated
dryer or aftercooler, then when it changes to horizontal to
head off
into the shop leave a slight downhill - maybe 1/4" per 10'
to the far
end of the room - where you put an elbow and a drain leg
down to a
drain valve you can reach. Drain it every few weeks -
you'll be
shocked how much water coalesces out in the lines.

Do NOT buy lots of couplings - buy mostly Tees and Plugs,
and put a
tee every length of pipe with the third hole POINTED UP to
the roof -
when you realize you need a new drop there, you just pull
the threaded
pipe plug out of the tee and go.

If you plan to wait 20 years and then add a new drop by
cutting the
Black pipe and threading it for a new tee, FUHGEDDABOUDIT.
You'll
either snap off an old fitting, or twist the old connections
and
create a dozen leaks... And eventually between the hissing
leaks and
compressor cycling every fifteen minutes it will drive you
mad, and
you have to take The Whole Damn System Apart and start over.

The tap legs go UP from the main line for a few inches so if
there is
any moisture in the air you leave it trapped in the main
line - and
eventually it'll work it's way to that drain leg at the far
end. Then
you go horizontal over to the wall, and drop down to your
drop
fittings.

Oh, and put another tee there with another butterfly drain
valve on
the drip-leg, so if any water gets that far it's stopped
again. Water
in your air is bad news.

If you have the money you use Copper pipe - but you build it
the exact
same way with the drip legs everywhere, and up-legs to leave
the water
behind. Except you can skip the tees, it's easy enough to
cut in one
and solder or braze the tap tee as needed. (No threading in
place.)

I use Silver Braze on Copper for Air (or refrigerant) - that
way your
Plumber doesn't think it's a Water line he can tap into.
Which can
get exciting.

-- Bruce --


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On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:49:48 -0600, justme wrote:

Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe


I'd rather see you use PEX. It's similar to the polyethylene tubing
used for industrial controls, and the failure mode isn't nearly as
nasty as PVC. And you still get the satisfaction of doing something
that's not recommended. g

Found in a google search for "pex compressed air:

"I sent an email to a company that supplies PEX (pexconnection.com)
here is what he said when I asked about using PEX for compressed air
in a hobby woodworking shop

" Air is routinely used for pressure testing PEX plumbing systems, and
we use it here to distribute the air for our air compressor, so I
would say that it should not be a problem for you to do that."

Then I asked about exposure to fluorescent lights in my shop. And his
reply was:
"For best results, you will most likely need to cover it. PEX should
not be exposed to direct UV light for more than 30 days. I will say,
however, that the PEX we are using (for water and air) is exposed to
direct fluorescent light and indirect sunlight and is performing well.
Still, the recommendation is that it not be exposed to UV light."

and...
http://www.plumbingzone.com/f2/pex-c...air-line-6019/

--
Ned Simmons
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In article ,
justme wrote:

Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe


I like the idea several have posted using PEX. There is also a PVC
designed and rated for air
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/product...roPipingSystem

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv
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Default Here we go again: PVC PIPE FOR AIR SUPPLY LINES

"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message news:n7bsn-
I like the idea several have posted using PEX. There is also a PVC
designed and rated for air
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/product...roPipingSystem


NorthernTool is selling a "RapidAir" air distribution set with 1/2"
nylon lines and push-to-connect fittings for well below the "list" price...
it actually looks like it's priced cheap for what you get; but a person
could piece together their own set-up, too.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7525_200367525
There must be a cheaper knock-off from HF also, according to RapidAir's
website "Please be aware that Harbor Freight has copied the Rapidair system.
This is not our product in their stores. We have had numerous phone calls
about the poor quality of this system."
http://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp


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On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:35:00 -0600, "David Courtney"
wrote:

"Ralph E Lindberg" wrote in message news:n7bsn-
I like the idea several have posted using PEX. There is also a PVC
designed and rated for air
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/product...roPipingSystem


NorthernTool is selling a "RapidAir" air distribution set with 1/2"
nylon lines and push-to-connect fittings for well below the "list" price...
it actually looks like it's priced cheap for what you get; but a person
could piece together their own set-up, too.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7525_200367525
There must be a cheaper knock-off from HF also, according to RapidAir's
website "Please be aware that Harbor Freight has copied the Rapidair system.
This is not our product in their stores. We have had numerous phone calls
about the poor quality of this system."
http://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp


PEX is their way of trademarking XLPE - Crosslinked Polyethylene,
perhaps with a Nylon scuff layer on the outside. They are using it
for the chassis air brake hoses on new heavy trucks, so they've got to
be fairly confident in it's reliability...

But that truck stuff is also colored different so it has a little UV
resistance - I wouldn't just toss up plumbing grade PEX pipe.

-- Bruce --


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On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 07:53:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
.. .
...


I used all of my garden hose once to pressure test a used tank, tied to the
far side of a big tree way back in the woods. The hose withstood 125PSI
without significant leaks.

I changed my airline from plastic to sloped and water-trapped iron after
reading the issues here. Is hose taped to strapping considered a safe
alternative?

jsw

Hose is safe. Period. Not necessarily reliable, or advised - but it
won't kill anyone. The worst that will happen is it ( the severed end
if it blows completely apart) will swing around and knock everything
off the shelves and swat you good. Hard plastic PIPE on the other
hand can fail catastrophically.
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:34:42 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I wondered about the Ts pointing up, but it made sense
later. Don't want water to rust and corrode the threads for
the plugs.

When I did a bit of pipe fitting, my old boss used to use
teflon tape, plus yellow Rectorseal #5 on the exterior /
male threads. That combination seemed to do good.

A union or two in the system makes it easier to take apart.
In theory, the unions mating surface doesn't need
Rectorseal, but the threads to the black iron do need teflon
and rectorseal.

I'd think it would make sense to spray paint the air pipe,
so it's different color than the other utilities. Water is
blue, natural gas is yellow. Fire protection is red. So,
what's that leave?

Black???
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:58:21 -0500, Gerald Miller
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:34:42 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I wondered about the Ts pointing up, but it made sense
later. Don't want water to rust and corrode the threads for
the plugs.

When I did a bit of pipe fitting, my old boss used to use
teflon tape, plus yellow Rectorseal #5 on the exterior /
male threads. That combination seemed to do good.

A union or two in the system makes it easier to take apart.
In theory, the unions mating surface doesn't need
Rectorseal, but the threads to the black iron do need teflon
and rectorseal.

I'd think it would make sense to spray paint the air pipe,
so it's different color than the other utilities. Water is
blue, natural gas is yellow. Fire protection is red. So,
what's that leave?

Black???
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Green is still available - generally used for OXYGEN.
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 22:25:21 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

In article ,
justme wrote:

Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe


I like the idea several have posted using PEX. There is also a PVC
designed and rated for air
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/product...roPipingSystem


And anybody who has never worked with PEX is in for a treat. Stuff is
amazingly easy.

Pex is easy to use. I recently had to add a faucet to my Wife's shop.
All the plumbing is in the crawl space so it was easy to tap into the
existing copper pipe using brass fittings that are made to be used
with either Pex or copper pipe. The fittings atre removable using a
horseshoe shaped tool that come 3 in a package for less than a buck. I
left the tools on the Pex after the installation so they would be
there when I need to add some more plumbing down the road. I have been
thinking about using large diameter Pex for air in my shop. I don't
know how big it comes though. I want at least 1 1/2 ID.
Eric
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 22:25:21 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...



I like the idea several have posted using PEX. There is also a PVC
designed and rated for air
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/product...roPipingSystem


And anybody who has never worked with PEX is in for a treat. Stuff is
amazingly easy.


PEX is possible.

The special Air rated PVC is made for piping up chemical refineries
where regular steel pipe would dissolve in weeks and they have to use
Plastic and Fiberglas and Stainless to build the whole place. And
AIUI it's HELLACIOUS EXPENSIVE. Not for the price averse.

-- Bruce --
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wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 22:25:21 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

In article ,
justme wrote:

Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

I like the idea several have posted using PEX. There is also a PVC
designed and rated for air
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/product...roPipingSystem


And anybody who has never worked with PEX is in for a treat. Stuff is
amazingly easy.

Pex is easy to use. I recently had to add a faucet to my Wife's shop.
All the plumbing is in the crawl space so it was easy to tap into the
existing copper pipe using brass fittings that are made to be used
with either Pex or copper pipe. The fittings atre removable using a
horseshoe shaped tool that come 3 in a package for less than a buck. I
left the tools on the Pex after the installation so they would be
there when I need to add some more plumbing down the road. I have been
thinking about using large diameter Pex for air in my shop. I don't
know how big it comes though. I want at least 1 1/2 ID.
Eric


PEX and SharkBites can get you into some incredible places with ease. SBs
are spendy, but when you look at the work they save, and how they lessen the
fire risk, I think they're worth it. IIRC, the biggest I've seen is 1", but
if they make bigger PEX, they should have the bigger SBs. Wonder what those
cost.

Steve


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On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:49:48 -0600, justme wrote:

Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe


Id say you would be ok for a year or 2..if you kept max pressure down to
below 90psi with PVC.

Im NOT recommending it in the slightest. No indeedy. But Ive seen a
bunch of commercial shops and hobby shops with PVC in air service.

Ive also replaced a ****load of exploded PVC pipe from the same or
similar shops where that 1-2 yr time/life was exceeded..in most cases
rather badly.

Black pipe runs about $.50 a foot for 1/2"..IE a 20' joint of it is less
than $12 from good..good plumbing supply houses such as Fergusens and
others.

For far less than $100 one can do a pretty damned good job of putting in
black pipe..including Ts in the average home shop.

I should mention that one should NEVER use a plain 90' fitting with the
exception of an inside corner..and one should NEVER use a straight
coupler. Period. Use nothing but Ts and put plugs into unused fittings.

Sooner or later..you are going to need a T somewhere....and that already
installed T will do you just fine, without having to bugger up the
entire system to install it.

All you need is a hand pipe threader..some cutting oil and a pipe vise
or a decent bench vise with either pipe jaws already in the vise..or a
set of impromptu ones.

Hand pipe threaders (I Strongly! recommend Rigid) can be had for less
than $15 at yard sales and what not.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:33:23 -0800, "Steve B" wrote:


"Ignoramus8003" wrote in message
m...
On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:

Cost, Iggy.


Cost of rubber hoses? You gotta be kidding me, they are very cheap.

i


I buy rubber hoses at yard sales. I just bought a 50 footer with fittings
for $3. Still was tied with those little plastic ribbons. Made in USA
rubber hose.

If I was to do a system, I'd do it in copper, or rubber, as you suggest. OP
seems set on doing it in PVC, and has an agenda to disprove others. I'd
advise to just build it, and go for it, and see what happens. What's the
worst that could happen? Blindness?

Steve


Ive got a ****LOAD of rubber hoses..and a matching ****load of 3/4" ID
hose thats rated at 300PSI. Goodyear hose as a matter of fact. Most of
it is in lengths of 50'. A bit sun faded on one side, its all sitting
in one of my pallet boxes out back.

Anybody coming by the Bakersfield area can come by and pick through my
Stuff.


Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch


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On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 22:51:47 -0500, Gerald Miller
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:53:25 -0600, Ignoramus8003
wrote:

Just use rubber hoses, what's the problem.

i

On 2011-11-23, justme wrote:
Due to having no money and abundance of devil-may-care, I am thinking
of using P.V.C. pipe to put in my shop for air supply. I am thinking
of using 1/2 inch due the the highest pressure rating compared to
larger sizes.

Now, my thought is to buy some wire cloth - the stuff that has open
squares of ~ .5 inch and cut it where, when formed into a tube, it
would cover the p.v.c. pipe comfortably.

Should the pipe explode due to the air pressure, the wire-cloth should
stop large pieces from becoming killer pieces.

I expect the nay sayers to say: DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL BE KILLED. To
them I say: I don't expect to eliminate ALL CHANCES OF DEATH OR INJURY
BUT I DO EXPECT THE SHIELDING TO CALM MY FEARS RATHER THAN USING BARE
PIPE.

What say?

Thanks

Joe

I like the mesh reinforced vinyl tubing myself
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


I do too, until its exposed to oil for a few years and becomes mesh
reinforced solid pipe.


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 23:17:43 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

There's white PVC, and the slightly colored CPVC. I'm not
sure if one has higher pressure rating.



The Grey is Sched 80 as I recall. Its MUCh thicker wall than the white.


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:34:42 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

wondered about the Ts pointing up, but it made sense
later. Don't want water to rust and corrode the threads for
the plugs.


Not that..you dont want transiant water to come down the pipe and spin
the turbine in your air tools.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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"Bruce L. Bergman wrote
...
PEX is possible.

The special Air rated PVC is made for piping up chemical refineries
where regular steel pipe would dissolve in weeks and they have to use
Plastic and Fiberglas and Stainless to build the whole place. And
AIUI it's HELLACIOUS EXPENSIVE. Not for the price averse.
-- Bruce --


Another one for comment:

I've been using grey plastic electrical conduit for projects. It's cheap,
machines nicely and the thick wall permits strong threads. Is it any good
for pressure?

jsw


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That's funny. The air near me is 80% nitrogen.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in
message
...


I'd think it would make sense to spray paint the air
pipe,
so it's different color than the other utilities. Water
is
blue, natural gas is yellow. Fire protection is red. So,
what's that leave?

Black???
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Green is still available - generally used for OXYGEN.



I don't know about Chicago, but the air here has about
21% Oxygen.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.


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