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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Ford Ranger question
Ive just finished putting a low mileage 3.0 in my 2001 Ranger (225,000
miles). The current engine came out of a 2003, and has 75k miles on it. After ****ing around for a week, unable to start it, a friend changed the spark plug wires around (seems most of the online diagrams are WRONG) and it started right up. However..when adding throttle over about 1500 rmp..it starts to lope...vroom...vroom...vroom...vroom What the hell is it and how do I fix it? I stuck on the original intake manifold after drilling and taping holes (properly) to use the original intake. Im NOT getting a check engine light and my code reader is isnt showing any codes. Anyone have any ideas? Gunner "In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our country." - David Lloyyd (2008) |
#2
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Ford Ranger question
Gunner Asch wrote:
Ive just finished putting a low mileage 3.0 in my 2001 Ranger (225,000 miles). The current engine came out of a 2003, and has 75k miles on it. After ****ing around for a week, unable to start it, a friend changed the spark plug wires around (seems most of the online diagrams are WRONG) and it started right up. However..when adding throttle over about 1500 rmp..it starts to lope...vroom...vroom...vroom...vroom What the hell is it and how do I fix it? I stuck on the original intake manifold after drilling and taping holes (properly) to use the original intake. Im NOT getting a check engine light and my code reader is isnt showing any codes. Anyone have any ideas? Gunner Fuel filter or dirty injectors ? -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#3
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Ford Ranger question
Throttle body switches are off line. The ECM thinks the throttle is
closed, so goes into decel fuel cut as the rpm passes the ck point. Test this theory by checking an injector with a logic probe ( not a test light). JR Dweller in the cellar On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 07:03:40 -0500, "Snag" wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: Ive just finished putting a low mileage 3.0 in my 2001 Ranger (225,000 miles). The current engine came out of a 2003, and has 75k miles on it. After ****ing around for a week, unable to start it, a friend changed the spark plug wires around (seems most of the online diagrams are WRONG) and it started right up. However..when adding throttle over about 1500 rmp..it starts to lope...vroom...vroom...vroom...vroom What the hell is it and how do I fix it? I stuck on the original intake manifold after drilling and taping holes (properly) to use the original intake. Im NOT getting a check engine light and my code reader is isnt showing any codes. Anyone have any ideas? Gunner Fuel filter or dirty injectors ? HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- |
#4
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Ford Ranger question
On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 19:22:46 -0700, JR North
wrote: Throttle body switches are off line. The ECM thinks the throttle is closed, so goes into decel fuel cut as the rpm passes the ck point. Test this theory by checking an injector with a logic probe ( not a test light). JR Dweller in the cellar When checking the INJECTORS, a test light is OK - in fact the NORMAL way of testing is to plug in a "noid light" You are working with 12 volts. Typical "logic probes" are for use at TTL levels of +/- 5 volts On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 07:03:40 -0500, "Snag" wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: Ive just finished putting a low mileage 3.0 in my 2001 Ranger (225,000 miles). The current engine came out of a 2003, and has 75k miles on it. After ****ing around for a week, unable to start it, a friend changed the spark plug wires around (seems most of the online diagrams are WRONG) and it started right up. However..when adding throttle over about 1500 rmp..it starts to lope...vroom...vroom...vroom...vroom What the hell is it and how do I fix it? I stuck on the original intake manifold after drilling and taping holes (properly) to use the original intake. Im NOT getting a check engine light and my code reader is isnt showing any codes. Anyone have any ideas? Gunner Fuel filter or dirty injectors ? HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- |
#6
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Ford Ranger question
On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 21:00:59 -0700, JR North
wrote: A noid will tell you if the ECM is pulling the circuit low, but does not tell you, if it doesn't flash, why. Also, noid's resistance and current draw are valued to be compatable with CMOS output circuit drivers. Regular test lights are not. A good probe does CMOS also, and very useful for checking both H and L circuits. Also, req for most CMOS and TTL level electronic automotive circuits. Incandesent test lights *may* have very high current draw, and damage output drivers. Why take a chance. JR Dweller in the cellar A test light draws less than an injector - guaranteed - and the driver is, in most cars today, a "peak and hold" driver that regulates the current to the low resistance injector. And the Noid light WILL flash if the injector circuit is firing. The drivers are generally not "tri-state" so they are either on or off, so a logic probe won't tell you anything a "noid light" can't. Unless you can explain it to me - I've been working with EFI for years. Yes - you CAN use a logic probe - but I don't understand what you think it can tell me that the "noid" cannot. It definitely can't tell me if the peak and hold is functioning. Pretty well need a scope for that - and a storage scope would make the job a lot easier. On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 23:31:41 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 19:22:46 -0700, JR North wrote: Throttle body switches are off line. The ECM thinks the throttle is closed, so goes into decel fuel cut as the rpm passes the ck point. Test this theory by checking an injector with a logic probe ( not a test light). JR Dweller in the cellar When checking the INJECTORS, a test light is OK - in fact the NORMAL way of testing is to plug in a "noid light" You are working with 12 volts. Typical "logic probes" are for use at TTL levels of +/- 5 volts On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 07:03:40 -0500, "Snag" wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: Ive just finished putting a low mileage 3.0 in my 2001 Ranger (225,000 miles). The current engine came out of a 2003, and has 75k miles on it. After ****ing around for a week, unable to start it, a friend changed the spark plug wires around (seems most of the online diagrams are WRONG) and it started right up. However..when adding throttle over about 1500 rmp..it starts to lope...vroom...vroom...vroom...vroom What the hell is it and how do I fix it? I stuck on the original intake manifold after drilling and taping holes (properly) to use the original intake. Im NOT getting a check engine light and my code reader is isnt showing any codes. Anyone have any ideas? Gunner Fuel filter or dirty injectors ? HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth -------------------------------------------------- |
#7
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Ford Ranger question
On Sep 22, 1:45*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
Ive just finished putting a low mileage 3.0 in my 2001 Ranger (225,000 miles). *The current engine came out of a 2003, and has 75k miles on it.. After ****ing around for a week, unable to start it, a friend changed the spark plug wires around (seems most of the online diagrams are WRONG) and it started right up. *However..when adding throttle over about 1500 rmp..it starts to lope...vroom...vroom...vroom...vroom What the hell is it and how do I fix it? I stuck on the original intake manifold after drilling and taping holes (properly) to use the original intake. Im NOT getting a check engine light and my code reader is isnt showing any codes. Anyone have any ideas? Gunner "In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our country." - David Lloyyd (2008) www.therangerstation.com for all things ranger related. One thing that I have seen happen on other makes- small changes to the timing reluctor/pickup can make the one in the new engine incompatible with the computer. And, check the fuel pressure. Idle but won't rev is a classic sign. Dave |
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