Well, I am begining to wonder if this is an implement hub. I took the
hub off. It is studded with 6 studs on 5.5 similar to a chevy. But the
pilot hole is 3 5/8 wide. They are indeed both tapered bearings. inner
is Timken 2788, outer is Timken1779. About 40 bucks not counting seal
cost. When I measured the spindle I came up with 1.495 on the inner
side and .934 on the outter side.

Is it worth it to buy new bearings or is this set up a bad idea? (If
they are implement spindles I assume they are not meant to go much
over 20 mph?)

One think though it has a brake drum on it and wheel cyliner. There is
a cut hydraulic line on the back. Would an implement set up even have
that?

I found an axle at TSC for 159 bucks that would fit it. But mine is
set up as a drop axle and the TSC is straight which I am assuming
would cause my coupler height to be wrong.

By the way this is a dual axle trailer home made trailer.

One think though it has a brake drum on it and wheel cyliner. There is
a cut hydraulic line on the back.

Typical of repurposed truck or automotive axles reused for a homemade
trailer. If you get new bearings, make sure to get new seals, too.

I found an axle at TSC for 159 bucks that would fit it. But mine is
set up as a drop axle and the TSC is straight which I am assuming
would cause my coupler height to be wrong.

You could just get a different ball mount for the truck; probably the
cheapest, most varied, and most common towing part ever, other than
the ball itself--this assumes you are using a real hitch and not just
a ball on the step bumper. Got a welder? Reconfigure your trailer
hitch to change the height.

Or just grit your teeth and pay the shipping to buy a proper drop axle
from one of the mailorder places like etrailer.com, trailerpart.com,
northerntool.com (unless you happen to live close to one of their
retail stores), southwestwheel.com, or championtrailers.com

You'd then be able to rest secure in the knowledge that replacement
parts from then on out will be readily available and you'd know what
they are (the champion trailers site has a particularly useful amount
of information).

There's another option which acts like a drop axle when properly
configured, and has the added benefit of having a suspension: the
torsion axle. I'll let you consult google for the details. They
would allow you to either completely eliminate your leaf springs, or
if your trailer was made like some I've seen where the axle was
directly welded to the frame, add springs.

Note too that both straight and drop axles can be configured two ways,
over or under the springs, depending on which way the spring mount
pads are welded on, which gives you more ride height options. Simply
flipping them over isn't a good idea, since most trailer axles curve
up slightly in the center to make them tow better.

Also consider getting a hitch scale.
http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm has one listed for sale down at the
bottom, but read the whole article anyway.

On Tue, 31 May 2011 05:35:03 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

Well, I am begining to wonder if this is an implement hub. I took the
hub off. It is studded with 6 studs on 5.5 similar to a chevy. But the
pilot hole is 3 5/8 wide. They are indeed both tapered bearings. inner
is Timken 2788, outer is Timken1779. About 40 bucks not counting seal
cost. When I measured the spindle I came up with 1.495 on the inner
side and .934 on the outter side.

Is it worth it to buy new bearings or is this set up a bad idea? (If
they are implement spindles I assume they are not meant to go much
over 20 mph?)

One think though it has a brake drum on it and wheel cyliner. There is
a cut hydraulic line on the back. Would an implement set up even have
that?

I found an axle at TSC for 159 bucks that would fit it. But mine is
set up as a drop axle and the TSC is straight which I am assuming
would cause my coupler height to be wrong.

By the way this is a dual axle trailer home made trailer.
What you have is a 6 stud Toyota or Nissan - almost guaranteed .
Chevy had mostly 78mm center holes, while yours is about 93mm.

Nissans were 100mm, and Toyota 108mm, and were generally bolt-centric
- NOT Hub-centric(meaning they had clearance between the rim hole and
the hub center)

Toyota DOES use the Timken 1779 - as does Chevy. Don't think Nissan
does - so that pretty well narrows it down to Early Toyota Hilux if it
is a front wheel with drum brakes

On May 31, 8:54*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2011 05:35:03 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:





Well, I am begining to wonder if this is an implement hub. I took the
hub off. It is studded with 6 studs on 5.5 similar to a chevy. But the
pilot hole is 3 5/8 wide. They are indeed both tapered bearings. inner
is Timken 2788, outer is Timken1779. About 40 bucks not counting seal
cost. When I measured the spindle I came up with 1.495 on the inner
side and .934 on the outter side.

Is it worth it to buy new bearings or is this set up a bad idea? (If
they are implement spindles I assume they are not meant to go much
over 20 mph?)

One think though it has a brake drum on it and wheel cyliner. There is
a cut hydraulic line on the back. Would an implement set up even have
that?

I found an axle at TSC for 159 bucks that would fit it. But mine is
set up as a drop axle and the TSC is straight which I am assuming
would cause my coupler height to be wrong.

By the way this is a dual axle trailer home made trailer.

*What you have is a 6 stud Toyota or Nissan - almost guaranteed .
Chevy had mostly 78mm center holes, while yours is about 93mm.

Nissans were 100mm, and Toyota 108mm, and were generally bolt-centric
- NOT Hub-centric(meaning they had clearance between the rim hole and
the hub center)

Toyota DOES use the Timken 1779 - as does Chevy. Don't think Nissan
does - so that pretty well narrows it down to Early Toyota Hilux if it
is a front wheel with drum brakes- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is no gap between the hub and wheel centers. Also, for some
reason this has a metal screw on dust cap. Does anyone know of a
vehicle that had a large diameter screw on dust cap? Also there are 15
inch tires on it. (205 70 r 15).

this has a metal screw on dust cap. Does anyone know of a
vehicle that had a large diameter screw on dust cap?

Not off hand, anything with that style is likely to be ancient. As I
understand it, one style ofscrew on cap was used with bulk grease,
applied by hand, and then screwed down every so often to force more
grease into the bearing. Not saying that's what you have, but it's
beginning to sound like it.

The right way to fix this is to shell out the money to upgrade the
axles. There is no correct cheap way to fix this.

On Wed, 1 Jun 2011 07:19:26 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On May 31, 8:54Â*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2011 05:35:03 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:





Well, I am begining to wonder if this is an implement hub. I took the
hub off. It is studded with 6 studs on 5.5 similar to a chevy. But the
pilot hole is 3 5/8 wide. They are indeed both tapered bearings. inner
is Timken 2788, outer is Timken1779. About 40 bucks not counting seal
cost. When I measured the spindle I came up with 1.495 on the inner
side and .934 on the outter side.

Is it worth it to buy new bearings or is this set up a bad idea? (If
they are implement spindles I assume they are not meant to go much
over 20 mph?)

One think though it has a brake drum on it and wheel cyliner. There is
a cut hydraulic line on the back. Would an implement set up even have
that?

I found an axle at TSC for 159 bucks that would fit it. But mine is
set up as a drop axle and the TSC is straight which I am assuming
would cause my coupler height to be wrong.

By the way this is a dual axle trailer home made trailer.

Â*What you have is a 6 stud Toyota or Nissan - almost guaranteed .
Chevy had mostly 78mm center holes, while yours is about 93mm.

Nissans were 100mm, and Toyota 108mm, and were generally bolt-centric
- NOT Hub-centric(meaning they had clearance between the rim hole and
the hub center)

Toyota DOES use the Timken 1779 - as does Chevy. Don't think Nissan
does - so that pretty well narrows it down to Early Toyota Hilux if it
is a front wheel with drum brakes- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is no gap between the hub and wheel centers. Also, for some
reason this has a metal screw on dust cap. Does anyone know of a
vehicle that had a large diameter screw on dust cap? Also there are 15
inch tires on it. (205 70 r 15).
OK - the 15 inch tires could be from anything. The bolt pattern is
common enough - but 93mm centers are NOT common. Nor are thread-on
dust caps, since about 1930-ish.

15 inch wheels were not common that far back, so that pretty well
rules outautomotive hubs that I'm aquainted with.

Reliable Axle DID produce 6 on 5.5 steel hubs for drum brake
applications (10 and 12 inch) with thread on caps. These are OIL BATH
hubs, not grease-packed - not sure if they use the timken bearings you
have.

Eastern Marine's Trailer Superstore has them listed for 13 and 17
bucks - reliable part number 250-031620 and 21 (10 and 12 inch
respectively ) - their stock number 5291153 and 54 - 1-800-453-7379.

These are aluminum thread-on dust caps, with "O"rings, for oil bath
boat trailer hubs.

On Wed, 1 Jun 2011 11:45:39 -0700 (PDT), Glenn Lyford
wrote:

this has a metal screw on dust cap. Does anyone know of a
vehicle that had a large diameter screw on dust cap?

Not off hand, anything with that style is likely to be ancient. As I
understand it, one style ofscrew on cap was used with bulk grease,
applied by hand, and then screwed down every so often to force more
grease into the bearing. Not saying that's what you have, but it's
beginning to sound like it.

The right way to fix this is to shell out the money to upgrade the
axles. There is no correct cheap way to fix this.
IF these are Reliable Axle boat trailer hubs, as I am starting to
suspect, the parts ARE available and reasonable - and they are high
quality hubs - and they may NOT be home-made axles.

These axles and hubs were fairly common on heavy duty twin axle boat
trailers several years back. (up to 3500 lb per axle)