I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not
catch it on fire.

"Ted Frater" wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not catch
it on fire.

Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's really
dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:
"Ted wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not catch
it on fire.

Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's really
dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.



If you have the time let it settle and then pour off the top. Another
way would be pulling a vacuum on it and let the oil boil off at room
temp. under a vacuum.

John

john wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ted wrote in message
...

Karl Townsend wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not
catch
it on fire.


Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling
temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's really
dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.



If you have the time let it settle and then pour off the top. Another
way would be pulling a vacuum on it and let the oil boil off at room
temp. under a vacuum.

John

Didja mean "let the water boil off" ?

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

jeff_wisnia wrote:
john wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ted wrote in message
...

Karl Townsend wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not
catch
it on fire.


Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling
temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's really
dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.



If you have the time let it settle and then pour off the top. Another
way would be pulling a vacuum on it and let the oil boil off at room
temp. under a vacuum.

John

Didja mean "let the water boil off" ?

Jeff


Yup

John

On 2011-05-30, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ted Frater" wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not catch
it on fire.

Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's really
dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.


No, it will not. And no, you have not done what Karl wants to do.

i

"Ignoramus17069" wrote in message
...
On 2011-05-30, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ted Frater" wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not
catch
it on fire.

Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling
temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's really
dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.


No, it will not. And no, you have not done what Karl wants to do.

i

Ah, a challenge. g Ok, the single-burner Coleman is going now, under a
3-lb. steel coffee can with 1/4" of water and a half-quart of cheap motor
oil...it's sounding like popcorn. POP! There it goes. 'Just sprayed oil all
over the plywood scrap I use for mixing small batches of concrete.

It better not be ruined, or I'll be annoyed -- at both of us. d8-)

Try it, Iggy. Now, if you're going to say that Karl can control the temp to
200 F, my response is, good luck. But stand back.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ignoramus17069" wrote in message
...
On 2011-05-30, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ted Frater" wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not
catch
it on fire.

Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling
temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's really
dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.


No, it will not. And no, you have not done what Karl wants to do.

i

Ah, a challenge. g Ok, the single-burner Coleman is going now, under a
3-lb. steel coffee can with 1/4" of water and a half-quart of cheap motor
oil...it's sounding like popcorn. POP! There it goes. 'Just sprayed oil all
over the plywood scrap I use for mixing small batches of concrete.

It better not be ruined, or I'll be annoyed -- at both of us. d8-)

Try it, Iggy. Now, if you're going to say that Karl can control the temp to
200 F, my response is, good luck. But stand back.

I think he is saying the water is emulsified in the oil and won't
separate. But I wouldn't bet on it not separating when heated.

-jim

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress Inscribed thus:


"Ignoramus17069" wrote in
message ...
On 2011-05-30, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ted Frater" wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but
the price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate
out in the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the
water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not
catch
it on fire.

Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling
temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's
really dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.


No, it will not. And no, you have not done what Karl wants to do.

i

Ah, a challenge. g Ok, the single-burner Coleman is going now, under
a 3-lb. steel coffee can with 1/4" of water and a half-quart of cheap
motor oil...it's sounding like popcorn. POP! There it goes. 'Just
sprayed oil all over the plywood scrap I use for mixing small batches
of concrete.

It better not be ruined, or I'll be annoyed -- at both of us. d8-)

Try it, Iggy. Now, if you're going to say that Karl can control the
temp to 200 F, my response is, good luck. But stand back.


Try putting a 1 inch cube of meat on a fondue fork and plunge it into
very hot oil...

The water in the meat boils and causes it to spit oil like crazy !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On Mon, 30 May 2011 18:59:56 -0500, Ignoramus17069
wrote:

On 2011-05-30, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ted Frater" wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not catch
it on fire.

Watch out. The oil floats, and when the water reaches boiling temperature,
it pops up kind of explosively and hot oil sprays around. It's really
dangerous.

Yes, I have done it.


No, it will not. And no, you have not done what Karl wants to do.

i

Yes it will - and it is not recommended. That's why I recommended
"decanting" the water with the modified 5 gallon can.

If you have all the "free" water drained out, heating the oil will
drive out any "bound" or absorbed water relatively safely - as will
working the equipment for an hour or two.

Ignoramus17069 fired this volley in
:


No, it will not. And no, you have not done what Karl wants to do.

i

Actually, it can, Ig. It depends upon how you apply the heat.

We had to dry out about 20lb of wet paraffin wax at the factory.

I _almost_ had an injurious accident.

I was melting the wax/water over an electric burner at high heat.

It began to foam and boil vigorously, and didn't look _too_ likely to
boil over-- it was just foaming to beat the band.

I got called back to the office, and thought, "Well, I better turn the
burner down so it won't catch fire while I'm away."

I turned it down to a low heat, and began to walk away.

I was about 30 feet away, when, at that point, all the tiny droplets of
water suspended in hot wax settled to the bottom of the pot, then
violently "BLURPED" out in one big surge.

So long as the boiling was vigorous enough to keep the water off the
bottom, it was fine. As soon as it settled out, it very nearly exploded.

Keep in mind that there was enough of a column of wax over the water to
at least slightly raise the boiling point. And then, when the water
began to boil, it "relieved" its own pressure, which then left the water
"superheated" for all intents and purposes. Even if it was only a tenth
of a degree over its boiling point at our altitude, when it surged up,
its boiling point dropped back to "normal", and thus it flashed to steam
all at once.

LLoyd

Ted Frater wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not
catch it on fire.

Like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kspx1oOP_fE&feature=fvst

Cheers!
Rich

On Tue, 31 May 2011 00:05:24 +0100, Ted Frater
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl
Try a small ,say cup full first.
It should work.
then you will need to heat the larger amout in such a way as to not
catch it on fire.
You want to "decant" the water first. Get a 5 gallon can and cut the
"bottom" out of it. . Solder a small valve into the fill cap. Invert
the can and fill with oil. Let it sit for an hour or so and open the
valve to drain off the water.
Now you will have 90+% of the water removed. Let is sit some more and
see if any more settles out. If not you are pretty well set to go -

A whole lot faster and simpler than cooking all the water out.

warming it up GENTLY to no more than about 215F- 220F won't hurt the
oil and will drive the last remnants of moisture out of the oil if you
want to be fussy, or put a few bags of Silica Gel in the oil to suck
out the last of the water.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but
the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out
in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

If the oil is milky it has additives to keep water suspended and yes
the water will come out with gentle heating...been there! If you have
beads of water and the oil isn't milky it will separate by standing
over time.

On Mon, 30 May 2011 20:06:06 -0400, "Tom Gardner" w@w wrote:


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
.. .
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but
the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out
in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

If the oil is milky it has additives to keep water suspended and yes
the water will come out with gentle heating...been there! If you have
beads of water and the oil isn't milky it will separate by standing
over time.


its a bit of both. I'll toss the bottom gallon after it sits. Then
heat the milky stuff. I'll just start with 1/2 a five pail and set the
hot plate on about mid range heat. Check it every 30 minutes or so. I
got 20 gallons for this batch.

Thanks, everybody, for all the advice.

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 May 2011 20:06:06 -0400, "Tom Gardner" w@w wrote:


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
. ..
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but
the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out
in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

If the oil is milky it has additives to keep water suspended and yes
the water will come out with gentle heating...been there! If you have
beads of water and the oil isn't milky it will separate by standing
over time.


its a bit of both. I'll toss the bottom gallon after it sits. Then
heat the milky stuff. I'll just start with 1/2 a five pail and set the
hot plate on about mid range heat. Check it every 30 minutes or so. I
got 20 gallons for this batch.

Thanks, everybody, for all the advice.


Put it into a 55 gallon steel drum that's setting horizontal on an elevated
stand with a water faucet screwed into the 3/4in bung and rotate it to appx
the 5:00 O'clock or so position so that the water level is slightly below
the faucet.

When your done, drain the water and you can then re-use the setup to store
used motor oil and or other petroleum based substances for later use either
for a waste oil shop heater or as feedstock for black diesel.

On Mon, 30 May 2011 17:52:57 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Certainly it will drive off the water. However, overheating may be
detrimental to the oil and/or any additives. I think if I were doing
it I'd try to discover what the recommended maximum operating
temperature is for the oil and then hold the heat to that figure.

Cheers,

John D. Slocomb
(jdslocombatgmail)

In article ,
Karl Townsend wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Got a vacuum pump? I doubt you have the volume to justify the sort of
thing (as commercially and not cheaply built in Cortland, NY) we used on
the transformer oil in the labs, but that was a vacuum-filtration
system, and as such would get the water out without heat (it also ran it
through filters to remove particulates at the same time - I'd suggest at
least a pipe section with a bunch of super-magnets to pull any steel out
of it, and perhaps a regular spin-on filter as well if you can plumb one
up.)

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

On May 30, 8:58*pm, Ecnerwal
wrote:
In article ,
*Karl Townsend wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Got a vacuum pump? I doubt you have the volume to justify the sort of
thing (as commercially and not cheaply built in Cortland, NY) we used on
the transformer oil in the labs, but that was a vacuum-filtration
system, and as such would get the water out without heat (it also ran it
through filters to remove particulates at the same time - I'd suggest at
least a pipe section with a bunch of super-magnets to pull any steel out
of it, and perhaps a regular spin-on filter as well if you can plumb one
up.)

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

Are you saying that you pulled a vacuum to boil off the water, or that
you used a vacuum pump to suck the oil through a filter? Two pretty
different processes.

Ecnerwal wrote:
In article ,
Karl Townsend wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Got a vacuum pump? I doubt you have the volume to justify the sort of
thing (as commercially and not cheaply built in Cortland, NY) we used on
the transformer oil in the labs, but that was a vacuum-filtration

I'm guessing vacuum pump oil costs more than whatever you dump into a
tractor.

You don't want water settling inside a vacuum pump either.

On May 31, 5:46*pm, Cydrome Leader wrote:
...
Got a vacuum pump? I doubt you have the volume to justify the sort of
thing (as commercially and not cheaply built in Cortland, NY) we used on
the transformer oil in the labs, but that was a vacuum-filtration

I'm guessing vacuum pump oil costs more than whatever you dump into a
tractor.

You don't want water settling inside a vacuum pump either.-

Water doesn't seem to bother the small Gast vane pumps.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=4-1808
Mine has the integral motor. I run air through it afterwards to dry it
out.

jsw

Karl Townsend wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Do you want to risk an expensive transmission, hydraulic pump and
control valves to salvage $50 worth of tractor UTF fluid?

On 5/30/2011 3:52 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

A centrifuge is effective at this, if you are on a farm, a cream
separator is a form of a centrifuge that may be worth a try,
particularly if you have one that you don't use for cream any more.

--
www.wbnoble.com

Bill Noble wrote:

On 5/30/2011 3:52 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

A centrifuge is effective at this, if you are on a farm, a cream
separator is a form of a centrifuge that may be worth a try,
particularly if you have one that you don't use for cream any more.


It's an APPLE FARM, not a dairy.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

Aside from what others have suggested, a dessicant like silica gel or
calcium chloride will absorb water from oil. You will need more of the
dessicant than the water you want to remove. I have not tried this myself.

On May 30, 6:52*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

karl

A chamois ("shammy") will separate water from gasoline. Perhaps it
would work for warmed hydraulic oil?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois_leather

jsw

Put 3 gal oil in five pail on hot plate at med hi heat. Took two hours
to reach 100 degree C. Let it run another half hour. Oil looks like
new, got four more batches to do.

Karl

On 2011-05-31, Karl Townsend wrote:
Put 3 gal oil in five pail on hot plate at med hi heat. Took two hours
to reach 100 degree C. Let it run another half hour. Oil looks like
new, got four more batches to do.

So, I was right, then.

i

"Ignoramus17069" wrote in message
...
On 2011-05-31, Karl Townsend wrote:
Put 3 gal oil in five pail on hot plate at med hi heat. Took two hours
to reach 100 degree C. Let it run another half hour. Oil looks like
new, got four more batches to do.

So, I was right, then.

i

Yeah. You get a gold star. Now, when you've settled down, you might want to
go back and look at my original message, to which you objected, in which I
said "watch out, don't let it boil." g

Good for Karl. I'm glad it worked for him.

--
Ed Huntress

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Put 3 gal oil in five pail on hot plate at med hi heat. Took two
hours
to reach 100 degree C. Let it run another half hour. Oil looks like
new, got four more batches to do.

Karl


Weren't you tempted to do a bit of tempura?

On Mon, 30 May 2011 17:52:57 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

You can dry oil contaminated with water by heating it to about
90C/190F for several hours.

I have done this on a large scale ( about 80,000 litres at a time)
at my employers. I was Technical Superintendent of a lubricating oil
manufacturing plant and after about 20 years the steam heating coils
in the blending tanks fractured, releasing steam which condensed into
water and emulsion as the oil was only heated to 60C.

We simply transferred the oil to a sound tank, heated to 90C until
the oil was dry. The test for water is called a "crackle test",
simply put about 10 ml of oil in a test tube and heat with a bunsen
burner or electric heater. If you hear popping sounds, the oil is
still wet, continue drying until there is no popping.

If you have a reasonably heavy gauge 60 litre steel drum with one
or two bungs, fill it no more than about 2/3 full, then you can heat
it safely until it is dry, the oil will not overflow and the water
will evaporate through the bungs. Do not close the bungs. Do not
use an open topped grease pail unless it is 180 kg size and filled
with a maximum of 50 litres. Open containers are dangerous. You
can use a 20 litre drum filled to about 15 litres but they are a
thinner gauge steel and you have to be more careful with the heating
method.

I also have about 60 litres of damp transmission oil to dry from my
tractor, will wait until the end of winter when the weather warms up a
bit.

HTH

Alan,
who has had a much better life since retiring in
1995. No more 5 am starts unless I WANT to go out at that horrible
hour.

On Thu, 02 Jun 2011 02:11:03 +0800, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 17:52:57 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

You can dry oil contaminated with water by heating it to about
90C/190F for several hours.

I have done this on a large scale ( about 80,000 litres at a time)
at my employers. I was Technical Superintendent of a lubricating oil
manufacturing plant and after about 20 years the steam heating coils
in the blending tanks fractured, releasing steam which condensed into
water and emulsion as the oil was only heated to 60C.

We simply transferred the oil to a sound tank, heated to 90C until
the oil was dry. The test for water is called a "crackle test",
simply put about 10 ml of oil in a test tube and heat with a bunsen
burner or electric heater. If you hear popping sounds, the oil is
still wet, continue drying until there is no popping.

If you have a reasonably heavy gauge 60 litre steel drum with one
or two bungs, fill it no more than about 2/3 full, then you can heat
it safely until it is dry, the oil will not overflow and the water
will evaporate through the bungs. Do not close the bungs. Do not
use an open topped grease pail unless it is 180 kg size and filled
with a maximum of 50 litres. Open containers are dangerous. You
can use a 20 litre drum filled to about 15 litres but they are a
thinner gauge steel and you have to be more careful with the heating
method.

I also have about 60 litres of damp transmission oil to dry from my
tractor, will wait until the end of winter when the weather warms up a
bit.

HTH

Alan,
who has had a much better life since retiring in
1995. No more 5 am starts unless I WANT to go out at that horrible
hour.

Glad to know its a fairly standard thing. I finished today. As the oil
is up to $15 per gallon, I saved $300 for an hour's work. This will be
SOP from now on. Water contamination in the tractor oil is common.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 02 Jun 2011 02:11:03 +0800, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 17:52:57 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

You can dry oil contaminated with water by heating it to about
90C/190F for several hours.

I have done this on a large scale ( about 80,000 litres at a time)
at my employers. I was Technical Superintendent of a lubricating oil
manufacturing plant and after about 20 years the steam heating coils
in the blending tanks fractured, releasing steam which condensed into
water and emulsion as the oil was only heated to 60C.

We simply transferred the oil to a sound tank, heated to 90C until
the oil was dry. The test for water is called a "crackle test",
simply put about 10 ml of oil in a test tube and heat with a bunsen
burner or electric heater. If you hear popping sounds, the oil is
still wet, continue drying until there is no popping.

If you have a reasonably heavy gauge 60 litre steel drum with one
or two bungs, fill it no more than about 2/3 full, then you can heat
it safely until it is dry, the oil will not overflow and the water
will evaporate through the bungs. Do not close the bungs. Do not
use an open topped grease pail unless it is 180 kg size and filled
with a maximum of 50 litres. Open containers are dangerous. You
can use a 20 litre drum filled to about 15 litres but they are a
thinner gauge steel and you have to be more careful with the heating
method.

I also have about 60 litres of damp transmission oil to dry from my
tractor, will wait until the end of winter when the weather warms up a
bit.

HTH

Alan,
who has had a much better life since retiring in
1995. No more 5 am starts unless I WANT to go out at that horrible
hour.

Glad to know its a fairly standard thing. I finished today. As the oil
is up to $15 per gallon, I saved $300 for an hour's work. This will be
SOP from now on. Water contamination in the tractor oil is common.

Karl



15 dollars a gallon sounds very expensive. I buy aws 24 and AWS 46 for
about 25 dollars for a five gallon pail.

John

On Wed, 01 Jun 2011 21:02:08 -0400, john
wrote:

Glad to know its a fairly standard thing. I finished today. As the oil
is up to $15 per gallon, I saved $300 for an hour's work. This will be
SOP from now on. Water contamination in the tractor oil is common.

Karl



15 dollars a gallon sounds very expensive. I buy aws 24 and AWS 46 for
about 25 dollars for a five gallon pail.

John

Do you mean ISO 24 (22) & ISO 46 or is AWS a brand ?

20 litres is just over 5 mini gallons, which costs about $120
here in Oz, so yours are cheap. I do not count the cheap brands/no
name stuff as many of them do not meet standards - they skimp on
additive. My employer used to manufacture for one of them and
their formulae would NEVER meet even their minimum standard of the
range. I always had to add more additive just to meet their minimum
standard.
My employer has a +/- tolerance of 5% from nominal, some other
major brands are +/- 10% and many "el cheapos" are +/- 20% if you are
lucky. My blending usually hit "spot on" centre of range, as the
formula was designed to do. We once went 11 months without any
errors, about 900 batches. An oil 9% below nominal will be on
specification for a company with +/- 10% tolerance but would be way
off for my employer at 4% below minimum.

Alan

wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jun 2011 21:02:08 -0400,
wrote:

Glad to know its a fairly standard thing. I finished today. As the oil
is up to $15 per gallon, I saved $300 for an hour's work. This will be
SOP from now on. Water contamination in the tractor oil is common.

Karl



15 dollars a gallon sounds very expensive. I buy aws 24 and AWS 46 for
about 25 dollars for a five gallon pail.

John

Do you mean ISO 24 (22)& ISO 46 or is AWS a brand ?

20 litres is just over 5 mini gallons, which costs about $120
here in Oz, so yours are cheap. I do not count the cheap brands/no
name stuff as many of them do not meet standards - they skimp on
additive. My employer used to manufacture for one of them and
their formulae would NEVER meet even their minimum standard of the
range. I always had to add more additive just to meet their minimum
standard.
My employer has a +/- tolerance of 5% from nominal, some other
major brands are +/- 10% and many "el cheapos" are +/- 20% if you are
lucky. My blending usually hit "spot on" centre of range, as the
formula was designed to do. We once went 11 months without any
errors, about 900 batches. An oil 9% below nominal will be on
specification for a company with +/- 10% tolerance but would be way
off for my employer at 4% below minimum.

Alan


The AW is what I should have listed. The products are made by Coast Oil
company and I have been using them for many years. Here is their
website with the product specs.
http://www.coastoil.com/specSheets.html#

The product is sold in many auto stores but I buy it directly from my
oil supplier. They all just about double the price of what I am paying
for it.

John

On Mon, 30 May 2011 17:52:57 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?


I forgot to add that we blew dry compressed air through the wet
oil to circulate it. I will use compressed air when I dry my oil.

Alan

Karl Townsend wrote:

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

I used to work at a place with forming presses that leaked. Part of the process used
steam to relax the fiber in our moulding media, anyway, we ended up with a pit full of
hydraulic oil, wood fiber, and water.

We would pump the mess out, run it though a reclaiming system that basically was a pump,
filters, and a plate heated by plant steam that the oil flowed over that boiled off the
water. Seemed to work okay fine for us.

Wes

Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

Is there a filter you can use to continuously clear water from
the hydraulic oil onboard the tractor, Karl?

--Winston

On Wed, 01 Jun 2011 21:46:43 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
I had to dump the trans-hydraulic oil out of a tractor today. Its
contaminated with water. I've always just replaced it before, but the
price of oil has went nuts. And I'm a bit short right now.

I'm wondering about putting it in a metal bucket on a hot plate out in
the field. If you heat it to say 200, will it drive the water off?

Is there a filter you can use to continuously clear water from
the hydraulic oil onboard the tractor, Karl?

I installed a diesel fuel/water separator on my boss' tow truck a
couple decades ago. Maybe one is available for hydraulic fluid.

--
Remember, in an emergency, dial 1911.