If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

On 2/14/2011 9:08 AM, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R





Heya Joe,

First thing to find out is why is the tool breaking? My guess would be
he's using a hand drill and the drillbit isn't going straight, or he's
in the hole and the drill moves one way or the other, grabbing and
snapping.

My suggestion would be getting a magbase drill, and some left hand
drills. Sure the magbase will be a somewhat expensive purchase, but at
least it will keep the drill straight to the stud and he'll end up
having to buy less tooling.

Tom

tnik wrote:

On 2/14/2011 9:08 AM, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R




Heya Joe,

First thing to find out is why is the tool breaking? My guess would be
he's using a hand drill and the drillbit isn't going straight, or he's
in the hole and the drill moves one way or the other, grabbing and
snapping.

My suggestion would be getting a magbase drill, and some left hand
drills. Sure the magbase will be a somewhat expensive purchase, but at
least it will keep the drill straight to the stud and he'll end up
having to buy less tooling.

Tom

I don't think a mag drill will be feasible on an in-vehicle engine by
itself due to a lack of suitable surfaces to mag it to. I think it might
work if you were to weld/machine some adapter plates that could be
bolted over head stud holes that did come out and then mag the mag drill
to the adapter plate.

Honestly, I think a drill technique training session or two for the
folks doing the drilling is likely what is really required. Many of the
auto techs I know don't have any machining experience and simply don't
understand that they need to keep a drill drilling straight to keep from
breaking it.

For bits, I'm thinking that a carbide tipped bit might have some
advantage between carbide to drill the hard head studs, and a more
ductile steel shaft to be more tolerant of flex.

On 2/14/2011 9:54 AM, Pete C. wrote:

tnik wrote:

On 2/14/2011 9:08 AM, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R




Heya Joe,

First thing to find out is why is the tool breaking? My guess would be
he's using a hand drill and the drillbit isn't going straight, or he's
in the hole and the drill moves one way or the other, grabbing and
snapping.

My suggestion would be getting a magbase drill, and some left hand
drills. Sure the magbase will be a somewhat expensive purchase, but at
least it will keep the drill straight to the stud and he'll end up
having to buy less tooling.

Tom

I don't think a mag drill will be feasible on an in-vehicle engine by
itself due to a lack of suitable surfaces to mag it to. I think it might
work if you were to weld/machine some adapter plates that could be
bolted over head stud holes that did come out and then mag the mag drill
to the adapter plate.

Honestly, I think a drill technique training session or two for the
folks doing the drilling is likely what is really required. Many of the
auto techs I know don't have any machining experience and simply don't
understand that they need to keep a drill drilling straight to keep from
breaking it.

For bits, I'm thinking that a carbide tipped bit might have some
advantage between carbide to drill the hard head studs, and a more
ductile steel shaft to be more tolerant of flex.

True, I was thinking that the engine was taken out to rebuild. If it is
in the vehicle, a magbase drill would be kinda hard to use.

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook


I've used HSS for this use for a LONG time. Breaking bit's is due to not
holding the drill straight.
There used to be a drill guide that you could buy that had adjustable
hollow legs that you adjusted to rocker studs or exhaust studs and used
them to hold the drill straight. I have seen them in a couple catalogs,
not sure if MSC or McMaster have them as they wouldn't be considered
"precision tools"

Promax 79251
Wolfcraft 28796

Are similar items. With a rework of the base to provide adjustable
alignment pins it would be almost the same tool.

--
Steve W.

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 09:08:15 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

I would suggest HSS-cobalt. with TIN or other coating might help
alittle more too.

Those studs are semi hard and real tough, the cobalt is the edge you
need to get through them.

HTH.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

On Feb 14, 9:08*am, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:


Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.

You might do some searches on S.E.J.W on bolt removal. Or suggest
your neighbor do some looking. The welders suggest putting a nut over
the end of the stud and welding it to the broken stud. The heat help
free the stud and the nut provides a way to turn it out.

Also ESAB sells something for removing broken bolts.

This is from a post back in 2001 by Michael Bolster

Find a Welding distributor that carries the All-State line of
maintenance
electrodes from ESAB and ask for Stud Plus. (I know Praxair or Airgas
can
order them if they do not stock them). The electrode is excellent for
removing studs that have been broken off and are recessed down inside
the
threads. While the electrode burns, the flux coating protects the
threads
and allows the filler metal to build up to the top of the threads.
Then all
you need to do is weld a nut on and remove the broken stud.

The following was taken off the ESAB web site:

Stud Plus:

A specially formulated AC/DC reverse electrode designed to be a cost
effective way of removing broken studs, bolts, and taps from holes.
Work on
all grades of steel fasteners - stainless steel, grades 2, 5, 8 and
case
hardened steel bolts.
"Kit" package contains 8 sticks 3/32" diameter, 5 sticks 1/8" and 4
sticks
5/32". Also available in Handi-Pack Display unit.
Tensile strength: 120 ksi to 180 ksi
Current temperatu AC/DC

Diameter (in.) Length (in.) Wgt(#) and Container Stock No.
3/32, 1/8, 5/32 1# Tube Kit 69001015
3/32 14 1# Tube 69201006
1/8 14 1# Tube 69201007
5/32 14 1# Tube 69201005
3/32 9 5# Tube 69200006
1/8 14 5# Tube 69200007
5/32 14 5# Tube 69200005



Dan

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 09:08:15 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R


Left hand thread cobalt drills. Forget the tiN

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R





For drilling out studs if they are flush I put a washer and then a nut
on top of them and then weld up the nut to the stud. While it is still
hot I spray it with kroil oil.

They make a special welding rod for recessed holes but I have never used
them but other people say they work great. the flux adheres to the
existing thread and keeps it from being damaged and the nut again is
welded to the center core developed by the rod.

John

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 08:54:55 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


tnik wrote:

On 2/14/2011 9:08 AM, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R




Heya Joe,

First thing to find out is why is the tool breaking? My guess would be
he's using a hand drill and the drillbit isn't going straight, or he's
in the hole and the drill moves one way or the other, grabbing and
snapping.

My suggestion would be getting a magbase drill, and some left hand
drills. Sure the magbase will be a somewhat expensive purchase, but at
least it will keep the drill straight to the stud and he'll end up
having to buy less tooling.

Tom

I don't think a mag drill will be feasible on an in-vehicle engine by
itself due to a lack of suitable surfaces to mag it to. I think it might
work if you were to weld/machine some adapter plates that could be
bolted over head stud holes that did come out and then mag the mag drill
to the adapter plate.

Honestly, I think a drill technique training session or two for the
folks doing the drilling is likely what is really required. Many of the
auto techs I know don't have any machining experience and simply don't
understand that they need to keep a drill drilling straight to keep from
breaking it.

For bits, I'm thinking that a carbide tipped bit might have some
advantage between carbide to drill the hard head studs, and a more
ductile steel shaft to be more tolerant of flex.

It is not usual to find HSS drills, in a size to drill out head
bolts/studs, breaking very often, in fact the usual problem in
drilling out bolts is not starting the hole in the center of the bolt
or not drilling straight. I suggest a little training.

(Blushingly) I've been using straight HSS drills for drilling almost
everything for 50 years, or more, and if you can convince the guy to
use a slow drill RPM and a constant feed rate he should have no
problems drilling almost everything.

I've never used L.H. drills but I think that they would be an
advantage.

My experience with carbide is that they are very difficult to use, in
sizes suitable for drilling out bolts, using a hand drill, as they are
very brittle.

Randy wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 09:08:15 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

I would suggest HSS-cobalt. with TIN or other coating might help
alittle more too.

Those studs are semi hard and real tough, the cobalt is the edge you
need to get through them.

HTH.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.


Most studs come out pretty easily and the last thing to do is to drill
them out when all else fails. If the stud is flush take a dremmel with
a slitter and cut a screwdriver slot in the stud. Sometimes a tap with
a center punch on the outside perimiter will break it loose. If the
stud is recessed you can sometimes stick a welding rod to it and turn it
out.
Experience is a great teacher, in the sixty years that I have been
removing broken bolts and studs I tried a lot of methods but every
broken stud is different. If you do drill a good colbalt drill works or
even a carbide tipped drill.


John

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:37:09 +0700, john B.
wrote:

It is not usual to find HSS drills, in a size to drill out head
bolts/studs, breaking very often, in fact the usual problem in
drilling out bolts is not starting the hole in the center of the bolt
or not drilling straight. I suggest a little training.

(Blushingly) I've been using straight HSS drills for drilling almost
everything for 50 years, or more, and if you can convince the guy to
use a slow drill RPM and a constant feed rate he should have no
problems drilling almost everything.

I've never used L.H. drills but I think that they would be an
advantage.

My experience with carbide is that they are very difficult to use, in
sizes suitable for drilling out bolts, using a hand drill, as they are
very brittle.
Agreed - I would not try carbide bits for this job. I have found
quality cobalt bits to be excellent for the job, particularly when run
with a low speed drill motor. My big air drill works well for this, as
does my half inch Makita electric (which is not much bigger than many
3/8 inch drills but runs less than half the speed.)

wrote:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:37:09 +0700, john B.
wrote:

It is not usual to find HSS drills, in a size to drill out head
bolts/studs, breaking very often, in fact the usual problem in
drilling out bolts is not starting the hole in the center of the bolt
or not drilling straight. I suggest a little training.

(Blushingly) I've been using straight HSS drills for drilling almost
everything for 50 years, or more, and if you can convince the guy to
use a slow drill RPM and a constant feed rate he should have no
problems drilling almost everything.

I've never used L.H. drills but I think that they would be an
advantage.

My experience with carbide is that they are very difficult to use, in
sizes suitable for drilling out bolts, using a hand drill, as they are
very brittle.
Agreed - I would not try carbide bits for this job. I have found
quality cobalt bits to be excellent for the job, particularly when run
with a low speed drill motor. My big air drill works well for this, as
does my half inch Makita electric (which is not much bigger than many
3/8 inch drills but runs less than half the speed.)

Recall that I didn't suggest solid carbide bits, I suggested carbide
tipped bits.

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:39:28 -0500, John
wrote:

Randy wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 09:08:15 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical manufacturing-related
job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I don't get into
suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number of options
available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local supply
house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight as he
had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming next.
"What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that he
will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the time. I'm
also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works itself out
easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is presumably out
due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase tonight?
Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is a clear cut
leader out there I don't know about that these two can't supply.

Thanks!

I would suggest HSS-cobalt. with TIN or other coating might help
alittle more too.

Those studs are semi hard and real tough, the cobalt is the edge you
need to get through them.

HTH.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.


Most studs come out pretty easily and the last thing to do is to drill
them out when all else fails. If the stud is flush take a dremmel with
a slitter and cut a screwdriver slot in the stud. Sometimes a tap with
a center punch on the outside perimiter will break it loose. If the
stud is recessed you can sometimes stick a welding rod to it and turn it
out.
Experience is a great teacher, in the sixty years that I have been
removing broken bolts and studs I tried a lot of methods but every
broken stud is different. If you do drill a good colbalt drill works or
even a carbide tipped drill.


John
And if it will come out that easily, the left-hand cobalt drill will
spin it out in a jiffy.

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:48:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


wrote:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:37:09 +0700, john B.
wrote:

It is not usual to find HSS drills, in a size to drill out head
bolts/studs, breaking very often, in fact the usual problem in
drilling out bolts is not starting the hole in the center of the bolt
or not drilling straight. I suggest a little training.

(Blushingly) I've been using straight HSS drills for drilling almost
everything for 50 years, or more, and if you can convince the guy to
use a slow drill RPM and a constant feed rate he should have no
problems drilling almost everything.

I've never used L.H. drills but I think that they would be an
advantage.

My experience with carbide is that they are very difficult to use, in
sizes suitable for drilling out bolts, using a hand drill, as they are
very brittle.
Agreed - I would not try carbide bits for this job. I have found
quality cobalt bits to be excellent for the job, particularly when run
with a low speed drill motor. My big air drill works well for this, as
does my half inch Makita electric (which is not much bigger than many
3/8 inch drills but runs less than half the speed.)

Recall that I didn't suggest solid carbide bits, I suggested carbide
tipped bits.
The brazed carbide bits generally available (used for concrete
drilling) do not work well for drilling studs unless you reconfigure
the tip (sharpen to the right angle) and the spiral shank does not
clear chips well (they are designed to clear cement dust). Sharpening
carbide drills requires the special grinding stones used for
sharpening carbide tool bits (which many but not all RCMers will have,
and also know)

There are likely other carbide tipped drills available that would do
the job, but I've never seen or used them. They would definitely be
pricier than cobalts - and getting them in left-hand feed might be
more problematic as well.

I vividly remember, about 1979, having to remove a broken stud from a
turbo manifold on a big Case loader. All the older more experienced
guys in the shop had taken a crack at it and burned off the tips of
every drill they could think of while I was out on a service call.

I asked them what the worst would be that could happen if I tried
something, and they said it's $600 worth of scrap untill someone gets
the stud out, so go to it. I blew that sucker out with the acetylene
torch, and picked the threads out with a pick. The shop foreman said
it was the first time he'd ever seen someone drill and tap a hole with
a torch.

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:48:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


wrote:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:37:09 +0700, john B.
wrote:

It is not usual to find HSS drills, in a size to drill out head
bolts/studs, breaking very often, in fact the usual problem in
drilling out bolts is not starting the hole in the center of the bolt
or not drilling straight. I suggest a little training.

(Blushingly) I've been using straight HSS drills for drilling almost
everything for 50 years, or more, and if you can convince the guy to
use a slow drill RPM and a constant feed rate he should have no
problems drilling almost everything.

I've never used L.H. drills but I think that they would be an
advantage.

My experience with carbide is that they are very difficult to use, in
sizes suitable for drilling out bolts, using a hand drill, as they are
very brittle.
Agreed - I would not try carbide bits for this job. I have found
quality cobalt bits to be excellent for the job, particularly when run
with a low speed drill motor. My big air drill works well for this, as
does my half inch Makita electric (which is not much bigger than many
3/8 inch drills but runs less than half the speed.)

Recall that I didn't suggest solid carbide bits, I suggested carbide
tipped bits.


Wasn't arguing, just reminiscing :-)

My experience with carbide is that they are very difficult to use, in
sizes suitable for drilling out bolts, using a hand drill, as they are
very brittle.

As they say in Catholic Churches, "Bingo!" ...I'm Sicilian so let me slide
with that one.

I totally agree and talk about this often. Even micro-vibrations from a
machine that is simply not secure or heavy enough can damage carbide's
cutting surface in most cases.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

If you had an EDM machine available.....
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

If you had an EDM machine available.....

....That fit inside the engine compartment of various vehicles.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Cole drill, or a fabricated equivalent with a foot that can be bolted onto
the block surface for nearly perfect alignment.

--
WB
..........


"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
If you call me and ask me about drilling some typical
manufacturing-related job, I can sell you the equipment, but generally, I
don't get into suggesting tooling because there is such a massive number
of options available and I figure the tooling manufacturer will be the
best one to ask.

You don't ask a drill press manufacturer what "bits" to use, right? Same
thing here...

So, I have a neighbor who runs a large auto repair shop and he was
complaining about not being able to find decent tooling at the local
supply house. I offered to bring him my McMaster and MSC catalogs tonight
as he had never heard of either of them... But now I know what is coming
next. "What do you suggest I buy Joe?"

So... I know HSS isn't working for him. He breaks the tools all the time,
etc. I'm thinking TiN coated will work best for him given the fact that
he will never use coolant and will be hand drilling almost all of the
time. I'm also thinking left hand spiral so that the occasional stud works
itself out easier with the rotational force of the bit... Carbide is
presumably out due to the hand drilling and vibration, etc.

Any suggestions out there for me to give to him on what to purchase
tonight? Limit the suggestions to MSC and McMaster please unless there is
a clear cut leader out there I don't know about that these two can't
supply.

Thanks!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

In article ,
wrote:

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:48:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


wrote:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:37:09 +0700, john B.
wrote:

It is not usual to find HSS drills, in a size to drill out head
bolts/studs, breaking very often, in fact the usual problem in
drilling out bolts is not starting the hole in the center of the bolt
or not drilling straight. I suggest a little training.

(Blushingly) I've been using straight HSS drills for drilling almost
everything for 50 years, or more, and if you can convince the guy to
use a slow drill RPM and a constant feed rate he should have no
problems drilling almost everything.

I've never used L.H. drills but I think that they would be an
advantage.

My experience with carbide is that they are very difficult to use, in
sizes suitable for drilling out bolts, using a hand drill, as they are
very brittle.
Agreed - I would not try carbide bits for this job. I have found
quality cobalt bits to be excellent for the job, particularly when run
with a low speed drill motor. My big air drill works well for this, as
does my half inch Makita electric (which is not much bigger than many
3/8 inch drills but runs less than half the speed.)

Recall that I didn't suggest solid carbide bits, I suggested carbide
tipped bits.
The brazed carbide bits generally available (used for concrete
drilling) do not work well for drilling studs unless you reconfigure
the tip (sharpen to the right angle) and the spiral shank does not
clear chips well (they are designed to clear cement dust). Sharpening
carbide drills requires the special grinding stones used for
sharpening carbide tool bits (which many but not all RCMers will have,
and also know)

There are likely other carbide tipped drills available that would do
the job, but I've never seen or used them. They would definitely be
pricier than cobalts - and getting them in left-hand feed might be
more problematic as well.

I know of one brand that I've used with success drilling hard steel,
Rodman (800-228-1806):

http://www.rodmanandcoinc.com/rodman...2.html?UCIDs=1
307321|1307323&PRID=1492961.



I vividly remember, about 1979, having to remove a broken stud from a
turbo manifold on a big Case loader. All the older more experienced
guys in the shop had taken a crack at it and burned off the tips of
every drill they could think of while I was out on a service call.

I asked them what the worst would be that could happen if I tried
something, and they said it's $600 worth of scrap untill someone gets
the stud out, so go to it. I blew that sucker out with the acetylene
torch, and picked the threads out with a pick. The shop foreman said
it was the first time he'd ever seen someone drill and tap a hole with
a torch.

Cool. What was the diameter of the stud?


Joe Gwinn