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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Snowblower Zaps Owner
Well it didn't happen yet, but a neighbor brought over her 2003
Troybilt 8526 so I could see why it stalls after running for 5 minutes. Pulled off plastic cover shroud to work on the carb. Noticed that the plastic shroud was molded with (3) bosses for retention with extended head bolt studs, but only (2) head bolts were headed with studs. Why you may ask??, well at some point the mfr added an 120V electric start option and the standard Tecumseh starter switch/receptacle combo has the cord leaving the housing directly over a head bolt, leaving no room for a "stud" headed capscrew for the third boss. Only problem is the plastic boss is still molded into the cover and when bolted down with the two remaining head studs, it tightly pinches the 120V cable going to the starter against a hot cylinder head capscrew. Only easy fix I see is to trim the cover boss to clear the 120V cable as it exits the starter switch. If you have one of these take a look before you get zapped or at least use a GFI outlet. Think I'll email a photo to Troybilt/MTD. By the way the carb is a typical post '97 EPAised non-adjustable piece of crap. How can an engine that's missfiring because it's so lean make less emissions than a correctly adjusted carb?? |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Snowblower Zaps Owner
On Jan 28, 1:05*am, oldjag wrote:
Well it didn't happen yet, but a neighbor brought over her 2003 Troybilt 8526 so I could see why it stalls after running for 5 minutes. *Pulled off plastic cover shroud to work on the carb. Noticed that the plastic shroud was molded with (3) bosses for retention with extended head bolt studs, but only (2) head bolts were headed with studs. *Why you may ask??, well at some point the mfr added an 120V electric start option and the standard Tecumseh starter switch/receptacle combo has the cord leaving the housing directly over a head bolt, leaving no room for a "stud" headed capscrew for the third boss. *Only problem is the plastic boss is still molded into the cover and when bolted down with the two remaining head studs, it tightly pinches the 120V cable going to the starter against a hot cylinder head capscrew. *Only easy fix I see is to trim the cover boss to clear the 120V cable as it exits the starter switch. *If you have one of these take a look before you get zapped or at least use a GFI outlet. *Think I'll email a photo to Troybilt/MTD. *By the way the carb is a typical post '97 EPAised non-adjustable piece of crap. *How can an engine that's missfiring because it's so lean make less emissions than a correctly adjusted carb?? They are trading one type of emissions (HC) for another (NOx). If it's lean now wait till they try running it on E10. Was the fuel vent in the cap plugged? Dave |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Snowblower Zaps Owner
On Jan 28, 9:54*am, Dave__67 wrote:
On Jan 28, 1:05*am, oldjag wrote: Well it didn't happen yet, but a neighbor brought over her 2003 Troybilt 8526 so I could see why it stalls after running for 5 minutes. *Pulled off plastic cover shroud to work on the carb. Noticed that the plastic shroud was molded with (3) bosses for retention with extended head bolt studs, but only (2) head bolts were headed with studs. *Why you may ask??, well at some point the mfr added an 120V electric start option and the standard Tecumseh starter switch/receptacle combo has the cord leaving the housing directly over a head bolt, leaving no room for a "stud" headed capscrew for the third boss. *Only problem is the plastic boss is still molded into the cover and when bolted down with the two remaining head studs, it tightly pinches the 120V cable going to the starter against a hot cylinder head capscrew. *Only easy fix I see is to trim the cover boss to clear the 120V cable as it exits the starter switch. *If you have one of these take a look before you get zapped or at least use a GFI outlet. *Think I'll email a photo to Troybilt/MTD. *By the way the carb is a typical post '97 EPAised non-adjustable piece of crap. *How can an engine that's missfiring because it's so lean make less emissions than a correctly adjusted carb?? They are trading one type of emissions (HC) *for another (NOx). If it's lean now wait till they try running it on E10. Was the fuel vent in the cap plugged? Dave The vent is probably clear, I ran a 1/2 pint or so of fuel out of the fuel hose at the carb to see if there was any restriction, kink vent issue etc. BTW around here it's hard to know if your getting E10 or not, all of the pumps say up to 10% ethanol so your kinda at the mercy of the refiner/supplier. I did find the primer hose was full of fuel at a low point. I eliminated the low point where fuel could collect. I'll see if this helps or not, it might have been preventing the carb bowl from venting properly back to the hole in the center of the primer bulb. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Snowblower Zaps Owner
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:30:59 -0800 (PST), oldjag
wrote: On Jan 28, 9:54Â*am, Dave__67 wrote: On Jan 28, 1:05Â*am, oldjag wrote: Well it didn't happen yet, but a neighbor brought over her 2003 Troybilt 8526 so I could see why it stalls after running for 5 minutes. Â*Pulled off plastic cover shroud to work on the carb. Noticed that the plastic shroud was molded with (3) bosses for retention with extended head bolt studs, but only (2) head bolts were headed with studs. Â*Why you may ask??, well at some point the mfr added an 120V electric start option and the standard Tecumseh starter switch/receptacle combo has the cord leaving the housing directly over a head bolt, leaving no room for a "stud" headed capscrew for the third boss. Â*Only problem is the plastic boss is still molded into the cover and when bolted down with the two remaining head studs, it tightly pinches the 120V cable going to the starter against a hot cylinder head capscrew. Â*Only easy fix I see is to trim the cover boss to clear the 120V cable as it exits the starter switch. Â*If you have one of these take a look before you get zapped or at least use a GFI outlet. Â*Think I'll email a photo to Troybilt/MTD. Â*By the way the carb is a typical post '97 EPAised non-adjustable piece of crap. Â*How can an engine that's missfiring because it's so lean make less emissions than a correctly adjusted carb?? They are trading one type of emissions (HC) Â*for another (NOx). If it's lean now wait till they try running it on E10. Was the fuel vent in the cap plugged? Dave The vent is probably clear, I ran a 1/2 pint or so of fuel out of the fuel hose at the carb to see if there was any restriction, kink vent issue etc. BTW around here it's hard to know if your getting E10 or not, all of the pumps say up to 10% ethanol so your kinda at the mercy of the refiner/supplier. I did find the primer hose was full of fuel at a low point. I eliminated the low point where fuel could collect. I'll see if this helps or not, it might have been preventing the carb bowl from venting properly back to the hole in the center of the primer bulb. If you have Shell stations around their premium is ethanol free, thei regular up to E10, and the midgrade somewhere between as it is a mix of the 2. I run Shell Ultra in my lawnmower and blower. |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Snowblower Zaps Owner
On Jan 29, 9:57*am, wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:30:59 -0800 (PST), oldjag wrote: On Jan 28, 9:54*am, Dave__67 wrote: On Jan 28, 1:05*am, oldjag wrote: Well it didn't happen yet, but a neighbor brought over her 2003 Troybilt 8526 so I could see why it stalls after running for 5 minutes. *Pulled off plastic cover shroud to work on the carb. Noticed that the plastic shroud was molded with (3) bosses for retention with extended head bolt studs, but only (2) head bolts were headed with studs. *Why you may ask??, well at some point the mfr added an 120V electric start option and the standard Tecumseh starter switch/receptacle combo has the cord leaving the housing directly over a head bolt, leaving no room for a "stud" headed capscrew for the third boss. *Only problem is the plastic boss is still molded into the cover and when bolted down with the two remaining head studs, it tightly pinches the 120V cable going to the starter against a hot cylinder head capscrew. *Only easy fix I see is to trim the cover boss to clear the 120V cable as it exits the starter switch. *If you have one of these take a look before you get zapped or at least use a GFI outlet. *Think I'll email a photo to Troybilt/MTD. *By the way the carb is a typical post '97 EPAised non-adjustable piece of crap. *How can an engine that's missfiring because it's so lean make less emissions than a correctly adjusted carb?? They are trading one type of emissions (HC) *for another (NOx). If it's lean now wait till they try running it on E10. Was the fuel vent in the cap plugged? Dave The vent is probably clear, I ran a 1/2 pint or so of fuel out of the fuel hose at the carb to see if there was any restriction, kink vent issue etc. BTW around here it's hard to know if your getting E10 or not, all of the pumps say up to 10% ethanol so your kinda at the mercy of the refiner/supplier. *I did find the primer hose was full of fuel at a low point. *I eliminated the low point where fuel could collect. I'll see if this helps or not, it might have been preventing the carb bowl from venting properly back to the hole in the center of the primer bulb. *If you have Shell stations around their premium is ethanol free, thei regular up to E10, and the midgrade somewhere between as it is a mix of the 2. I run Shell Ultra in my lawnmower and blower.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Depends on what state you're in. It's full alcohol blend on all three available grades of any brand from Colorado to the middle of Nebraska, then you can finally get uncontaminated gas on mid-grade through most of IL and into IN. And they've upped the allowable to 20% now. How that's going to work with older equipment is anyone's guess, mine would be "poorly". I lose at least 10-15% mileage using 10% contaminated gas as it is. Stan |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Snowblower Zaps Owner
oldjag wrote: How can an engine that's missfiring because it's so lean make less emissions than a correctly adjusted carb?? Your engine isn't "missfiring because it's so lean" To answer your question about emissions: Your talking about a one cylinder engine that is designed so that if it misfires because the mixture is too lean the engine simply quits running. The carb is designed so that if the mixture is too lean a single misfire will make it even more lean and thus it will never recover from a single misfire. If it misfires and keeps running then the problem is mechanical, or electrical or maybe even a little water mixed in with the gas or the misfire is caused by a rich mixture -jim |
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