The last thing remaining on the MEP-006A generator, was the cold start
system thet releases a "measured shot" of ether into the intake
manifold.

It would do nothing.

Supplied 24v right to the valve, no click, no movement.

Took valve off, took it apart, found rusted iron plunger that was
engaged by the solenoid, cleaned up. Now it clicks, would not fire.

More screwing around last night. Found crud in passages, cleaned with
welding wire. Got some shots of ether.

Reinstalled back and it now works great.

It is 18 degrees F right now.

The cold start system is very gentle, just barely enough ether to get
the genset going. Which is actually good, as it does not lead to ether
explosions and such.

It works very reliably. So now, the generator is 100% working and
verified. I will try to load test it to 100%, with a homemade 60 kW
load bank that I want to build, and then I will sell it.

i

Ignoramus3982 wrote:

It works very reliably. So now, the generator is 100% working and
verified. I will try to load test it to 100%, with a homemade 60 kW
load bank that I want to build, and then I will sell it.

Youtube of that please...

On 2011-01-20, Jim Stewart wrote:
Ignoramus3982 wrote:

It works very reliably. So now, the generator is 100% working and
verified. I will try to load test it to 100%, with a homemade 60 kW
load bank that I want to build, and then I will sell it.

Youtube of that please...


Yeah... I will post a youtube of a cold start too, it is kind of fun
to watch.

On Jan 20, 3:54*pm, Ignoramus3982
wrote:
The last thing remaining on the MEP-006A generator, was the cold start
system thet releases a "measured shot" of ether into the intake
manifold.

It would do nothing.

Supplied 24v right to the valve, no click, no movement.

Took valve off, took it apart, found rusted iron plunger that was
engaged by the solenoid, cleaned up. Now it clicks, would not fire.

More screwing around last night. Found crud in passages, cleaned with
welding wire. Got some shots of ether.

Reinstalled back and it now works great.

It is 18 degrees F right now.

The cold start system is very gentle, just barely enough ether to get
the genset going. Which is actually good, as it does not lead to ether
explosions and such.

It works very reliably. So now, the generator is 100% working and
verified. I will try to load test it to 100%, with a homemade 60 kW
load bank that I want to build, and then I will sell it.

i

How much are you thinking of asking for it? I'm not going to buy it,
but I'm just wondering.

On 2011-01-21, rangerssuck wrote:
On Jan 20, 3:54?pm, Ignoramus3982
wrote:
The last thing remaining on the MEP-006A generator, was the cold start
system thet releases a "measured shot" of ether into the intake
manifold.

It would do nothing.

Supplied 24v right to the valve, no click, no movement.

Took valve off, took it apart, found rusted iron plunger that was
engaged by the solenoid, cleaned up. Now it clicks, would not fire.

More screwing around last night. Found crud in passages, cleaned with
welding wire. Got some shots of ether.

Reinstalled back and it now works great.

It is 18 degrees F right now.

The cold start system is very gentle, just barely enough ether to get
the genset going. Which is actually good, as it does not lead to ether
explosions and such.

It works very reliably. So now, the generator is 100% working and
verified. I will try to load test it to 100%, with a homemade 60 kW
load bank that I want to build, and then I will sell it.

i

How much are you thinking of asking for it? I'm not going to buy it,
but I'm just wondering.

$4500 or so on ebay, less for any rec.crafts.metalworking member.

i

Genset .. hmmm Carbs , cold start ..

propane is cheap , easy to valve , my carb

to replace the OEM , is pc of copper tube , and a steel frame

around it for a practical way to pull the copper tube
carb

against the head , Copper because i can easily solder the
injection

mechanism into side of tube .. plunger enters the open end

of tube , as a throttle , it rides on a DIY ball screw
mechanism

so you twist a crank , and the throttle closes titely ,
another air entrance

thru a tiny hole , is for idling ,

Injectors are DIY , using sewing needles , into shrunk down 1/8
inch

copper fuel tubes , but from opposite side of big copper tube ,

are poppet valves that can cover the needle valves exit , just
in case

there is problems , or to control fuel flow in a
digital manner ,

The mcu can select any of 8 injectors to control fuel
flow ,

this takes a load off the method of moving needles in and out

to control flow , Sounds complicated ,

yet its fault tolerance , that i need , I dont want
complicated

fuel maps , i will have simple cheap sensors and the mcu
( Nintendo DSL )

will not need to be precise , to get good fuel economy .

suppose a needle leaks , and ruins idle mixture ....

mcu selects a needle that dont leak , by closing off the
leaking needle

mcu can also up or down , fuel psi to improve a fault
condition ,

yet average fuel pressure is 3 PSI ,

All very cheap and easy to build , sensors are simple crank
mnted

reluctance type TACH sendors , DIY in minutes , use old 8
penny nails

and old walwarts for the silicon steel , just dont use too much
steel , for

the rpm , fine magnet wire will up the voltage , ..

Home Depot CFL curly lights have high voltage NPN transistors
to

use as temperature measuring semiconductors , just bias the B E

about .005 mils and read the voltage across the B E , it
will

be a very accurate 0.0022 volts / C , now put this
transistor transducer

inside the engine somewhere , to tell mcu , engine temp ,

Buy a LM34DZ or sim to SET this DIY thermometer .

I was amased at how close it tracks , I did this 20 years ago
on

a Honda car , i put an LM34DZ in place of the cheap transistor
junc ,

it tracked perfectly ,,,

back to TACH , RPM , any IC Chip that can dual slope ,
fixed

de entigrate , , the circuit integrates the crank sensor ....

at idle , integrator gets a well shaped pulse , integrates
it , yet

the fixed deintegrate dischages the energy just integrated , to
produce

little volt , out , but at high RPM , the pulses are arriving so
fast they

dominate the integrator , to raise its DC output , aka Dual
slope Integration

Or , just buy a LM2907 from Jamemco for $1. 09 .. Its the
famous TACH chip .

But youll need many poles aka magnets on the crank , maybe 6 ,

so that the 2907 will give accurate DC out at engine
idle , no problem

at 7000 rpm , the LM2907 easily does this engine speed ,

i have many low cost Japan gensets , and ill also be carb-
ing

B18b Accura engines , in airplanes , The B18B and B18C are

strong buillt racing engines , yet you can start a project ,,
buying them

at $800 ea from Canada ! Its an opportunity !

My project is a 1500 HP ( B18b times 6 ) pusher prop , bi
plane

with folding wings , it fits into a hanger HOLE 9.5 feet
tall by 9 foot

wide . Upper wing moves , inflight , forward for weight
and balance ,

for take off and landing ,

Its floats fold down , then away and up , to allow landing gear

to deploy , Turbo'd engines have variable intake cam timing
to

nix need for waste gate , Thanks to Mr Atkison "cycle" ,
allows

the turbo to level out the unwanted variations in induction
aka

breathing , especially at high altitude , where the intake cam is
full advanced

to aide in compressing the thin air , yet at low altitude
and economy

cruise , the compression is very low ( cam is retarded up to 60
degrees )

, just high enuf to make the Turbo work at max effeciency .

ignition is a magneto on crank , producing high voltage to a
transistor

coil , again ,,, Home Depot curly CFl lites , give the
13003 transistors

to drive the home made ign coil , 12vdc systems are bad , you
can always

step down the system voltage from magneto to charge
batteries ,

But for lack of transistors , our cars use 15 vdc
alternators ,


i dont know how to use

yet i created it , its closed , invite only ,

send email address , ill TRY to figure out how to add it ,

any help appreciated ... It wont be boring ,

everything from computers , Linux , Forth , WXP , to
Nintendo DSL controllers to , cars trucks , sand buggies
with motorcycles , motorized bike engines ,
MIG TIG welder power supplies using Flourescent bulbs ,
DIY Plasma cutters ,
Hydraulic pump powered air compressors , they're more effecient ,