Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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?Gone but not forgotten.

Here's to you tnut.

Best Regards
Tom.


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On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 03:28:53 -0800, "azotic"
wrote:

?Gone but not forgotten.

Here's to you tnut.

Best Regards
Tom.



DAMN,,,, I knew there was something special about today, but couldn't
recall what it was. Thanks Tom, and "Here's to You, t-nut!" RIP

Anybody heard anything about Ellen? She didn't reply last year.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell,Ontario.
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On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 03:28:53 -0800, "azotic"
wrote:

?Gone but not forgotten.

Here's to you tnut.

Best Regards
Tom.


TeeNut

My breakfast glass of milk is lifted in your memory

Ellen, our thoughts are with you today.

Bob
rgentry at oz dot net
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On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 03:28:53 -0800, azotic wrote:

?Gone but not forgotten.

Here's to you tnut.

Best Regards
Tom.


Never forgotten. I'm going to open a Newcastle brown tonight and
reminisce. Here's to you, T-nut!
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On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 03:28:53 -0800, "azotic"
wrote:

?Gone but not forgotten.

Here's to you tnut.

My all time favorite Teenut post:

In memoriam...

Subject: drill sharpening FAQ?
From: Robert Bastow
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 07:59:04 GMT


Intro snipped.....


The drill was ground, freehand, on
the FACE of the wheel (not the flat side)...care being taken to keep
the
POINT
angle as equal as possible on both sides..I'll tell you how to do THAT
in a
moment..


Lets do that now in fact..


Jim, You are dead right about not being able to grind a drill without
mechanical
help! Well here's how you create your own "6 Million Dollar Bionic
Darex"
;^)


Let's assume we are going to sharpen a 3/8" diameter, 2MT shank
drill..it is
about 8" long (these figures are arbitrary..I just want every one to
have
the
same mental picture of what I am describing. We approach the wheel,
which
has
been dressed on its face, dead straight across with no grooves..(Ve
SHOOT
anyone
ve catch putting grooves in ze drill wheel!!..No Pity..No
Prisoners..Ya!
Verdampt!)


(Sorry)...


The drill shank is held firmly in the RIGHT hand...ALL the movement
and
control
is imparted by the RIGHT hand. For the purposes of drill grinding, the
left
hand
could be...with benefit..a LUMP OF CLAY!!


It is from this "lump of clay" that we fashion the Bionic Darex".


Place your left hand thumb and finger tips LIGHTLY together..Relax the
other
three fingers aand let them naturally curl against the palm of your
hand.
Let
the drill flute drop into the vee between thumb and fore finger and
let the
tip
of the finger "Find" the curve of the flute where it fits comfortably.
The
tip
of the thumb rests on the sharp junction ot the land and the flute,
about an
inch back from the drill tip.


Now...SQUEEZE HARD!!! YOUCH!...I said it would be easier if it were
clay!
8^)
Lift the drill from your fingers...see the GROOVE?...Drop the drill
back
in..it
locates within a thou or two! Magic?..Bionic at least! Squeeze again
to set
the
groove. You have created a customised drill guide that fits better
that
that on
any machine ever built! You can relax your grip now..feel how
smoothly the
drill will ride back and forth, guided by the groove you have created
for
it.


Place the knuckles of your left hand, LIGHTLY on the ginding wheel
tool
rest,
and swing the drill shank, from left to right (using ONLY your right
hand)
and
push the drill lengthways though that groove in your fingers back or
forth
using
the groove to make the drill twist or "rifle" in your fingers. Do NOT
move
your
left hand in any way..it is made of clay remember!


UNTIL....


A) The drill axis is "eyeballed" to be at half the required point
angle to
the
wheel face...You can scribe or chalk reference lines on your grinder
benchtop to
help you line this up..at least untill it become almost second nature.

B) The drill axis is dropped JUUUst below horizontal. This will
ensure that
your soon to be ground drill lip will start with a "smidgin" of
cutting
clearance.


(Ideally, and certainly for a beginner, the grinder rest should be
set dead
radially to the wheel center and about half the drill diameter below
the
true
center of the wheel)


C) The two cutting edges of the drill..the straight, sharp bits,
formed by
the
junction of the flute and the back face (the only bit you grind),
should be
horizontally disposed..with the edge uppermost on the side closest to
your
left
hand..the othe sharp bit of course, pointing downwards (Jeeze this
would be
a
lot easier with a sketch pad)


This I will call the SET or START position!


NOW, move your left hand for the first, last, and ONLY time during th
is
whole
exercise. GENTLY ease the cutting edge towards the spinning wheel,
carefully
maintaining all the angles and orientations of the SET position..until
the
cutting edge is JUST shy of touching the wheel. If you listen
carefully you
will hear the tone of the entrained air, whistling through the
narrowing
gap.
You will hear a subtle but distinct change of tone JUST, I mean
Just...a
couple
tenths of a thou BEFORE the edge touches the wheel. STOP!!! FREEZE!!
DO
NOT
MOVE!!


Now, press the knuckles of your lump of clay..sorry, your left hand
FIRMLY
down
onto, into and around the grinding rest..establish a "Groove" on the
back of
your hand as well as between your fingers.


We are now ready to grind, Your left hand locked to the drill and
grinding
rest
is otherwise quite relaxed..letting the drill slide, twist and tilt
wherever
your right hand and the groove in your fingers tell it to go.


The actual grinding is a bit of an anticlimax.


You have previously studied a new drill point, you have read about
clearance,
and cutting angles, and rakes and......


With the RIGHT hand in control, gently, kinda, lean forward... bending
or
squeezing your arms hands and body..rather than actually moving
them..untill
you
take up that last couple of tenths and the wheel begins to cut. Let
it
cut..don't force it, and dont' rush it..it really won't hurt anything
if you
take a full minute Per pass per face. YOU and your "Bionic Darex" are
totally
in control of that drill and the wheel..Forget the times when, close
to
panic,
you swung the drill wildly past the wheel, hoping to get "the dirty
deed"
over
with as quickly as possible.


Take your time, enjoy the moment, THINK about the shape you are trying
to
generate. Just the one face is left to "Interpretation"...every other
aspect,angle, facet, what have you...Has ALREADY BEEN TAKEN CARE OF!!
and is
locked in place under your control!


The right hand should perfome a "Lower Quadrant sweep" for want of a
better
term..An observer behind you would see your hand move from about 17
minutes
past
the hour on a clock face, to roughly 25 minutes past. But it isn't a
smooth
arc
of a circle, more a sector of an elipse..You see, as your hand starts
to
drop
slowly, you are also rotating the drill in "the groove"..the first
third of
the
turn needs to maintain that very slight clearance angle on the cutting
edge,
and
not increase it too rapidly.


You need the clearance to cut..But too much at that point will WEAKEN
the
edge,
and cause the drill to snatch and chip...So the first part of the
rotation
is
ALMOST but not quite, just as though you were grinding a straight cone
point
on
the end of your drill. Only as you approach the second third, does
your
right
hand start to noticably drop..kinda "Catching Up" on the rotary
motion...increasing the clearance as it does.


In the last third of the rotaion the right hand drops quite
rapidly..Thogh
not
enough to catch the OTHER drill lip on the wheel..that lip is coming
around
quite rapidly by now.


Above all, take your time, if it helps, move the drill one degree at a
time,
and
think ahead what shape or angle the next degree of cutting face
needs...Remember, you have control, and IT ain't going nowhere 'til
you
decide.


After a pass on one face, flip the drill in your "Bionic Darex" DO
NOT MOVE
THAT LEFT HAND!!, return to SET position and repeat, the pass on the
other
face.


Having done a couple of passes on each face..it is now time to check
the
results
on our homemade "Optical Comparator"


(Sorry Jim I couldn't resist!!) ;^)


Rest the center hole in back end of the drill shank, on the center
point of
the
"Comparator" and use, first one and then the other drill lip to scribe
a
light
line on your whitewashed (OK Blue or red dyed) surface.


You will readily see if the lines coincide..if the lips are even..or
not, as
the
case may be.


Lets assume they are..Now look directly DOWN on the end of the drill
to
check
the clearances. HUH? How can you check radial clearance by looking it
staight
in the face? Surely you need to look at it sideways?


Well no you don't...for once all thos interacting and confusing angle
and
faces
and clearances are going to work together in YOUR favor and make what
could
be a
tricky bit of metrology..quite simple. While we are looking at the
end of
the
drill, we will also check that the POINT ANGLE is correct too!!!


(Ok guys, leave quietly..teenut has finally lost it!!)


No really, trust me. IF you look straight down on the point of a well
sharpened, standard drill, you will see
the two cutting edges, joined by the CHISEL edge which crosses over
the web
of
the drill The angle fromed by the chisel edge to each cutting edge,
should
be
ABOUT 50 deg...anywhere between 40 and sixty is ok for a first
attempt. (I
can
hear the purists and theorists screaming and lighting up their flame
throwers)
But believe me, get it in that ball park and your drill will CUT. If
the
angle
is too steep..you don't have enough clearance...negative clearance
will give
you
an angle event greater than 90 deg. Too MUCH clerance and the angle
will
appear
too shallow!


While looking at the end, check the point angle, How? Look down
the axis
of
the drill at the cutting edges. Are they straight? If so, your point
is
pretty
close to the right angle (As designed for that drill, by its
manufacturer
when
he set the helix angle and the cross section of the flute) If the
edges
appear
CONCAVE the point is too flat and if they appear CONVEX, the point is
too
"Pointy"


If your drill passes all these tests, which take but a second or two
to
perform,
THEN IT WILL CUT..pretty close to size, without chattering, chipping,
overheating, wandering or seizing. I guarantee it!


Hey, thats a pretty good start for the first drill you ever ground!
All it
takes now is a bit of practice for it to become second nature and
almost as
easy
with a little 'un or a big 'un!


Hey guys!


My apologies for "goin'on" but If it helps just one person to pluck up
the
couragre and go hand sharpen his (or Her) first drill, by hand...


Then I hope you will bear with me.


It is late, I am tired and I am not even going to proof or spell check
this,


'night all


teenut








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On Jan 11, 11:28*am, "azotic" wrote:
?Gone but not forgotten.

Here's to you tnut.

Best Regards
Tom.



Thanks to you all for remembering teenut again this year. He
obviously made a big impact on a lot of lives with his contributions
here, and it means so much to me to see that he's not been forgotten,
10 years on.

I recently stumbled upon the archive of all of his posts that someone
here took the time to compile, and realised that he'd interspersed his
technical posts on metalworking with A LOT of sage advice and humour.
I wish I'd read it all earlier, but it really gave me some insights
into who my father was.

@Karl - Great find, and thanks for reposting. Any other goodies I
could have a laugh at?
@Bob and @Brian - Thanks for asking about Ellen. She knows you lot are
here, and I'll bet she'll have a peek to see what's posted today, if
she hasn't already. Hi Ellen
@Yooper - I'm joining you in raising a glass (right now, in fact!).

Janna
(his Canadian daughter, now living in London, UK)
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On 2011-01-11, azotic wrote:
?Gone but not forgotten.

Here's to you tnut.


Hear! Hear!

Out of the proper "Nukie Brun", so I had to make do with some
Guinness.

Memories,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
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Janna wrote:

Thanks to you all for remembering teenut again this year. He
obviously made a big impact on a lot of lives with his contributions
here, and it means so much to me to see that he's not been forgotten,
10 years on.

I recently stumbled upon the archive of all of his posts that someone
here took the time to compile, and realised that he'd interspersed his
technical posts on metalworking with A LOT of sage advice and humour.
I wish I'd read it all earlier, but it really gave me some insights
into who my father was.

@Karl - Great find, and thanks for reposting. Any other goodies I
could have a laugh at?
@Bob and @Brian - Thanks for asking about Ellen. She knows you lot are
here, and I'll bet she'll have a peek to see what's posted today, if
she hasn't already. Hi Ellen
@Yooper - I'm joining you in raising a glass (right now, in fact!).

Janna
(his Canadian daughter, now living in London, UK)

Welcome to the rememberance session. There are a lot of
us that remember t-nut with affection/reverence.
...Lew...
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On 01/11/2011 03:47 PM, Janna wrote:

Thanks to you all for remembering teenut again this year. He
obviously made a big impact on a lot of lives with his contributions
here, and it means so much to me to see that he's not been forgotten,
10 years on.

GASP! Has it been TEN years? Really hard to believe! I guess I am one
of those who took his presence for granted, and then suddenly he was gone!

Jon
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Jon Elson wrote in
:

On 01/11/2011 03:47 PM, Janna wrote:

Thanks to you all for remembering teenut again this year. He
obviously made a big impact on a lot of lives with his contributions
here, and it means so much to me to see that he's not been forgotten,
10 years on.

GASP! Has it been TEN years? Really hard to believe! I guess I am
one of those who took his presence for granted, and then suddenly he
was gone!

Jon


Ten years, wow, some things seem like yesterday...

Sorry to join this party so late, just happened to be browsing through.
Whenever something goes wrong, I search for Teenuts postings first to see
what I screwed up. I regularly have to reread his advice on using the
parting tool.


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"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
On 01/11/2011 03:47 PM, Janna wrote:

Thanks to you all for remembering teenut again this year. He
obviously made a big impact on a lot of lives with his contributions
here, and it means so much to me to see that he's not been forgotten,
10 years on.

GASP! Has it been TEN years? Really hard to believe! I guess I am one
of those who took his presence for granted, and then suddenly he was gone!

Jon


I could be wrong, but I believe it's been 11 years.

Harold

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