Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Do you know what these crimpers do:

190487729226
190486091238

thanks
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On 2011-01-09, Ignoramus12953 wrote:
Do you know what these crimpers do:

190487729226
190486091238


Well -- they both are "Type F" crimpers -- for the double
flagged crimp pins.

The first one is likely for the longer pins used in rectangular
connector bodies (up to at least 104 pins, IIRC, and down to 6 or so.
These connectors normally have keying corner pins so you don't get one
of a series of similar connectors in the wrong jack, and jackscrews to
pull the connector into complete mesh. A company I once worked for made
flight simulators, among other things, and used a lot of these
connectors -- usually the 60 or 104 pin ones. (Yes, these were made by
AMP too. :-)

The second one might even work with the pins for the DB-25 and
similar connectors -- but it only crimps one range of wire sizes instead
of two, and it does not have the pin nest to hold the pin at the right
depth in the crimper, so it takes a bit more care.

Be warned -- if you get into collecting AMP crimpers, you can
keep on forever. :-) I can still lift my bucket of AMP manual crimpers
one-handed -- but only because I don't have the hydraulic heads and dies
in there. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

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The second one might even work with the pins for the DB-25 and
similar connectors -- but it only crimps one range of wire sizes instead
of two, and it does not have the pin nest to hold the pin at the right
depth in the crimper, so it takes a bit more care.



FWIW, there was an AMP crimper with this removed when I bought so i
skipped it. Then after several connectors, I removed it on mine. Its
easier for me to place the contact this way. The contact would be at
the right depth but not the right rotation with the pin nest in place.

Karl
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To be able to know which specific terminals that many of these types of
crimpers were made for, one will need to download lots of AMP/Tyco and
various distributor's catalogs to find out.. if the crimper part number can
be researched.

Then, finding the proper terminals may not be so easy either.. unless one
wants to buy them in thousands quantities, or take chances with buying
poorly described surplus (of which the part numbers have probably been
changed).. if the terminals aren't obsolete.

As DoN has suggested, the particular type of crimpers are for (specific)
connector body terminals.. and that generally means that they won't crimp
more popular styles of terminals properly (spade, ring, quick-disconnect
etc).
At best, they may work with one size of flagged-molex-type terminals, but
probably only for one particular wire size, and one particular brand of
terminal.. then again, the spacing of the flag dies may be significantly
different.

The two particular style of the crimpers mentioned, are the closed die
types, meaning that they're generally only useful for terminals on the ends
of wires.. not for butt-splicing lengths of wire together (then the crimpers
are trapped on the wire).

Then there's the issue of wear from previous use. Some crimpers are
manufactured with adjustable parts, although many are not.

The reason that some high reliability fixed-die, non adjustable crimpers can
crimp terminals to several sizes of wire, is because the actual terminals
are designed for one specific wire size.
That means that terminals intended for n-gage wire won't be a reliable
connection with a different gage of wire. A different brand of terminals
will likely result in unpredictable/faulty crimp quality.

There may be alternate uses for some hand crimp tools, as I was suggesting
in a post: Crimping Tools Alternate Uses Hand Crimper 11/20/10

Many styles of hand crimping tools can be found very cheaply as surplus, and
then used for other purposes.

Looking for crimping tools on eBay can be frustrating, since many sellers
don't take the time to include numbers, close-up pics of the dies, or
detailed descriptions.
When a particular style of crimper is found, it's sometimes useful to search
for other examples of the same type, to see better pics of the dies, or
lower prices.

--
WB
..........


"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Well -- they both are "Type F" crimpers -- for the double
flagged crimp pins.

The first one is likely for the longer pins used in rectangular
connector bodies (up to at least 104 pins, IIRC, and down to 6 or so.
These connectors normally have keying corner pins so you don't get one
of a series of similar connectors in the wrong jack, and jackscrews to
pull the connector into complete mesh. A company I once worked for made
flight simulators, among other things, and used a lot of these
connectors -- usually the 60 or 104 pin ones. (Yes, these were made by
AMP too. :-)

The second one might even work with the pins for the DB-25 and
similar connectors -- but it only crimps one range of wire sizes instead
of two, and it does not have the pin nest to hold the pin at the right
depth in the crimper, so it takes a bit more care.

Be warned -- if you get into collecting AMP crimpers, you can
keep on forever. :-) I can still lift my bucket of AMP manual crimpers
one-handed -- but only because I don't have the hydraulic heads and dies
in there. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

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On 2011-01-09, Karl Townsend wrote:

The second one might even work with the pins for the DB-25 and
similar connectors -- but it only crimps one range of wire sizes instead
of two, and it does not have the pin nest to hold the pin at the right
depth in the crimper, so it takes a bit more care.



FWIW, there was an AMP crimper with this removed when I bought so i
skipped it. Then after several connectors, I removed it on mine. Its
easier for me to place the contact this way. The contact would be at
the right depth but not the right rotation with the pin nest in place.


O.K. I find that it works well for me -- so it seems to be an
individual thing -- and best to start with it available.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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On 2011-01-09, Wild_Bill wrote:

[ ... ]

As DoN has suggested, the particular type of crimpers are for (specific)
connector body terminals.. and that generally means that they won't crimp
more popular styles of terminals properly (spade, ring, quick-disconnect
etc).


These are specifically for pins for insertion into connectors,
not spade or ring terminals or quick-disconnects.

At best, they may work with one size of flagged-molex-type terminals, but
probably only for one particular wire size, and one particular brand of
terminal.. then again, the spacing of the flag dies may be significantly
different.


The first of the two actually has dies in it (side by side) for
two different gauges of wire and the appropriate pins.

The two particular style of the crimpers mentioned, are the closed die
types, meaning that they're generally only useful for terminals on the ends
of wires.. not for butt-splicing lengths of wire together (then the crimpers
are trapped on the wire).


Actually -- only the first of the two auctions indicated was of
this sort -- the other opens wide enough for the pin to be removed out
the open side instead of just being pulled back out from where it was
set. But since these were not for butt-splicing anyway, this does not
matter. These were for connector pins -- nothing else.

Then there's the issue of wear from previous use. Some crimpers are
manufactured with adjustable parts, although many are not.


And for most you can get the data sheet giving the dimensions of
go and no-go pin gauges to verify the crimper in hand.

The reason that some high reliability fixed-die, non adjustable crimpers can
crimp terminals to several sizes of wire, is because the actual terminals
are designed for one specific wire size.


And -- of course -- there are the crimpers (like Daniels) for
the machined pins which adjust for a fairly wide range of sizes of wire
for a given pin.

That means that terminals intended for n-gage wire won't be a reliable
connection with a different gage of wire. A different brand of terminals
will likely result in unpredictable/faulty crimp quality.


Certainly. Stick with the right brand terminal.

Of course -- the pre-insulated terminals (ring, fork, spade)
seem to work pretty interchangeably in good quality crimpers. The color
of the insulation tells you which wire size range it is for. In the
most common sizes (and most useful for us), red is 16-22, blue is 18-16,
and yellow is 10-12. The colors re-cycle many times, with the largest
which I have the capability of using being 4-0 -- which requires a
hydraulic crimper head and dies.

There may be alternate uses for some hand crimp tools, as I was suggesting
in a post: Crimping Tools Alternate Uses Hand Crimper 11/20/10


I like to make sure that it can't be useful for its intended
purpose first.

Looking for crimping tools on eBay can be frustrating, since many sellers
don't take the time to include numbers, close-up pics of the dies, or
detailed descriptions.


Of course. Sometimes, you have to be able to recognize the
special ones -- like the "Heavy head" one by AMP for the 10-12 Ga
terminals. Others by AMP (for crimp terminals, not for connector pins)
have the ends of the handles painted to indicate the size (and the
insulated terminal to use with it). Yellow and red are as above. For
whatever reason, the common blue terminal 14-16 Ga has one handle tip
blue, the other green. I've *never* seen an AMP terminal which was
green, so I don't know why that color scheme.

Note that a smaller looking one with yellow handles will be for
the 22-26 Ga wires and terminals -- rather hard to find. Above the
10-12 range, you get into hydraulic crimpers with interchangeable dies
covering four wire sizes -- and requiring *lots* of money if you buy
them new. :-)

When a particular style of crimper is found, it's sometimes useful to search
for other examples of the same type, to see better pics of the dies, or
lower prices.


Absolutely.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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