Ignoramus7319 wrote:

Anyway, given that this is Inconel, expensive stuff, I am wondering
how I can fix this situation, if at all. Maybe I can somehow respool
the wire with the lathe, or fix the broken spools. The spools cannot
be put together back with wire on it, the wire would not let me.

Iggy,

If you use your lathe keep in mind what would happen if the spool becomes unconstrained.
I've made a few springs and just having a few feet of spring wire and a lathe in
combination is something I both fear and respect.

Let me say this another way, I've seen a damaged spool come apart and wire flys everywere,
you don't want to be around it if the other end of the wire is being sucked onto a spool
under power.

Wes

On 2011-01-02, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus7319 wrote:

Anyway, given that this is Inconel, expensive stuff, I am wondering
how I can fix this situation, if at all. Maybe I can somehow respool
the wire with the lathe, or fix the broken spools. The spools cannot
be put together back with wire on it, the wire would not let me.

Iggy,

If you use your lathe keep in mind what would happen if the spool becomes unconstrained.
I've made a few springs and just having a few feet of spring wire and a lathe in
combination is something I both fear and respect.

Let me say this another way, I've seen a damaged spool come apart and wire flys everywere,
you don't want to be around it if the other end of the wire is being sucked onto a spool
under power.


I thought that it would be safer to use a hand drill on a foot pedal.

i

"Ignoramus26424"
wrote in
message
...
On 2011-01-02, Wes
wrote:
Ignoramus7319
wrote:

Anyway, given that this is Inconel, expensive
stuff, I am wondering
how I can fix this situation, if at all. Maybe
I can somehow respool
the wire with the lathe, or fix the broken
spools. The spools cannot
be put together back with wire on it, the wire
would not let me.

Iggy,

If you use your lathe keep in mind what would
happen if the spool becomes unconstrained.
I've made a few springs and just having a few
feet of spring wire and a lathe in
combination is something I both fear and
respect.

Let me say this another way, I've seen a
damaged spool come apart and wire flys
everywere,
you don't want to be around it if the other end
of the wire is being sucked onto a spool
under power.


I thought that it would be safer to use a hand
drill on a foot pedal.

i

I like your foot pedal idea! In fact, I have one
on my drill press
and I'm spoiled rotten with it. Everyone should
have one.
phil k.

Ignoramus26424 wrote:

Let me say this another way, I've seen a damaged spool come apart and wire flys everywere,
you don't want to be around it if the other end of the wire is being sucked onto a spool
under power.


I thought that it would be safer to use a hand drill on a foot pedal.

I've always considered you a smart man

Wes

Phil Kangas wrote:
"Ignoramus26424"
wrote in
message
...
On 2011-01-02, Wes
wrote:
Ignoramus7319
wrote:

Anyway, given that this is Inconel, expensive
stuff, I am wondering
how I can fix this situation, if at all. Maybe
I can somehow respool
the wire with the lathe, or fix the broken
spools. The spools cannot
be put together back with wire on it, the wire
would not let me.

Iggy,

If you use your lathe keep in mind what would
happen if the spool becomes unconstrained.
I've made a few springs and just having a few
feet of spring wire and a lathe in
combination is something I both fear and
respect.

Let me say this another way, I've seen a
damaged spool come apart and wire flys
everywere,
you don't want to be around it if the other end
of the wire is being sucked onto a spool
under power.


I thought that it would be safer to use a hand
drill on a foot pedal.

i

I like your foot pedal idea! In fact, I have one
on my drill press
and I'm spoiled rotten with it. Everyone should
have one.
phil k.

Why didn't I think of that?

I wonder if one could slow down the spindle more
quickly by configuring a relay to:
1) Remove power
2) Short the drill press motor 'hot and neutral'
connections together
?

--Winston -- Now looking for a right - angle gearbox
and a foot pedal!

Shorting the power leads together (with a length of wire) is a common
practice to stop motors more quickly in cordless power tools (circular saws,
for example), but they have permanent magnet motors.
PM motors act as generators when spun, so while they coast after the power
is cut off, shorting the motor terminals will brake the generator/motor.

This method doesn't work with induction/split-phase motors.

Simple friction/magnet brakes are available for induction motors, and motors
with integral brakes are available. The typical integral brake works with an
extended shaft sticking out the "back" end of the motor.
Similar brakes are available for installation on almost any shaft with
stationary material nearby.. they release when energized, and set/apply when
de-energized, so it's almost instantaneous with the motor's power switch, no
additional parts/components required.

--
WB
..........


"Winston" wrote in message
...

I wonder if one could slow down the spindle more
quickly by configuring a relay to:
1) Remove power
2) Short the drill press motor 'hot and neutral'
connections together
?

--Winston -- Now looking for a right - angle gearbox
and a foot pedal!

Wild_Bill wrote:
Shorting the power leads together (with a length of wire) is a common
practice to stop motors more quickly in cordless power tools (circular
saws, for example), but they have permanent magnet motors.
PM motors act as generators when spun, so while they coast after the
power is cut off, shorting the motor terminals will brake the
generator/motor.

This method doesn't work with induction/split-phase motors.

Perhaps D.C. injection?
http://www.scribd.com/doc/38585894/I...-Motor-Braking

--Winston

I've read that injecting high current DC into 3-phase motors is a method of
stopping them, but I don't recall reading anything similar for single-phase
motors.
One reason may be that the actual ends of the windings aren't externally
accessible on most single-phase motors (rarely are).

If one were to try the DC injection method with a single-phase motor, and I
can't think of anyone better qualified than you (no, really), they may need
to make connections to the actual ends of the stator (run?) winding(s),
especially if the motor is a capacitor start and/or split-phase motor.
I don't think passing the DC current thru the centrifugal switch would be
appropriate.. certainly not appropriate for the capacitor.

The only AC motors, other than 3-phase motors, that I'm aware of that are
designed to be stopped (and reversed) quickly are PSC motors. This is one of
their features.
They essentially act like a 2-phase motor, but are powered with single-phase
AC.

--
WB
..........


"Winston" wrote in message
...
Wild_Bill wrote:
Shorting the power leads together (with a length of wire) is a common
practice to stop motors more quickly in cordless power tools (circular
saws, for example), but they have permanent magnet motors.
PM motors act as generators when spun, so while they coast after the
power is cut off, shorting the motor terminals will brake the
generator/motor.

This method doesn't work with induction/split-phase motors.

Perhaps D.C. injection?
http://www.scribd.com/doc/38585894/I...-Motor-Braking

--Winston

On Jan 10, 11:06*am, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
I've read that injecting high current DC into 3-phase motors is a method of
stopping them, but I don't recall reading anything similar for single-phase
motors.

WB
.........

Putting a little DC into a single phase motor works well. Does not
have to be high current or much voltage. The current going thru the
field windings creates a magnetic field and induces currents in the
turning armature. You do not have to worry about the starting winding
if you only use a few volts ( like 6 volts or less ) and take it off
when the motor is stopped.

Dan

wrote:
On Jan 10, 11:06 am, wrote:
I've read that injecting high current DC into 3-phase motors is a method of
stopping them, but I don't recall reading anything similar for single-phase
motors.

WB
.........

Putting a little DC into a single phase motor works well. Does not
have to be high current or much voltage. The current going thru the
field windings creates a magnetic field and induces currents in the
turning armature. You do not have to worry about the starting winding
if you only use a few volts ( like 6 volts or less ) and take it off
when the motor is stopped.

Cool!

Thanks Dan and Wild Bill.

--Winston

On Jan 10, 2:49*pm, Winston wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 10, 11:06 am, *wrote:
I've read that injecting high current DC into 3-phase motors is a method of
stopping them, but I don't recall reading anything similar for single-phase
motors.

WB
.........

Putting a little DC into a single phase motor works well. *Does not
have to be high current or much voltage. *The current going thru the
field windings creates a magnetic field and induces currents in the
turning armature. *You do not have to worry about the starting winding
if you only use a few volts ( like 6 volts or less ) and take it off
when the motor is stopped.

Cool!

Thanks Dan and Wild Bill.

--Winston

Indeed - you can put a diode in series with the power line and a
normally closed momentary toggle switch across the diode. That makes a
pretty good braking mechanism for, say, a bench grinder.

rangerssuck wrote:
On Jan 10, 2:49 pm, wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 10, 11:06 am, wrote:
I've read that injecting high current DC into 3-phase motors is a method of
stopping them, but I don't recall reading anything similar for single-phase
motors.

WB
.........

Putting a little DC into a single phase motor works well. Does not
have to be high current or much voltage. The current going thru the
field windings creates a magnetic field and induces currents in the
turning armature. You do not have to worry about the starting winding
if you only use a few volts ( like 6 volts or less ) and take it off
when the motor is stopped.

Cool!

Thanks Dan and Wild Bill.

--Winston

Indeed - you can put a diode in series with the power line and a
normally closed momentary toggle switch across the diode. That makes a
pretty good braking mechanism for, say, a bench grinder.

Simple is good. Thanks!

--Winston

Hey, thanks for asking Winston.

It's great to have some actual working examples to contemplate.

--
WB
..........


"Winston" wrote in message
...
wrote:

Putting a little DC into a single phase motor works well. Does not
have to be high current or much voltage. The current going thru the
field windings creates a magnetic field and induces currents in the
turning armature. You do not have to worry about the starting winding
if you only use a few volts ( like 6 volts or less ) and take it off
when the motor is stopped.

Cool!

Thanks Dan and Wild Bill.

--Winston