Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

 
 
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Default Crimping Tools Alternate Uses Hand Crimper

I've found that a very good way to expand one's collection of very versatile
and handy tools is to find some of the great bargains available in surplus
used tools.

Some tools may not still pass certifications for their original intended
uses, but a well designed, quality, durable tool can still be utilized
effectively for other purposes.

Some of the specific-use, commercial or areospace hand crimp tools from AMP,
T&B, Hirose, Daniels, and many other quality tool manufacturers can cost
over $800 each when checking new prices ($300-400 is common).

Many types have hardened precision-machined jaws, forged steel frames,
compound action handles for ease of use to apply serious force to the
workpiece, adjustability in the mechanism for recertification or custom
applications.

Numerous brands of tools are intended for bare, flagged/tabbed U-shaped
contacts, form (3-shaped closures where the ends of the tabs are forced to
point into the center as the crimp is completed.

Many tools for insulated terminal applications form diamond-shaped,
W-shaped, () flattened-round shapes or U-shaped impressions.

Daniels, Winchester, Buchanan and others typically have 4 radially oriented
pin-jaws to crimp inward on bare cylindrical connector terminals.

Hex crimpers deform round metal shapes to the extent that there is
essentially zero spring-back, ensuring a permanent, very secure grip.

One should never have unreasonable expectations of using an improvised crimp
for anything related to proper electrical connections or mechanical
safety-related applications/items, but for general purpose utility-type
uses, a crimped metal sleeve may be far more practical than a knot or
fastener.

Gamefish anglers have been using crimp sleeves on their lure leaders and
tackle for generations.

Some folks are satisfied with using a hammer to close metallic tubular part
onto another material, and call it done.
I know there are numerous RCM'ers that enjoy using a little more finesse,
and achieving repeatable, results that exhibit a more skillfully executed
appearance, in most things they do.

The two common types of frame styles are F-style, where the user has easy
access to various crimp nests/jaws at the open part of the F.
The enclosed-head style of frames o= require the user to insert the terminal
into the opening from the side, and then take the terminal out from the same
side.

One could see that the F-style crimp tool could fairly easily be modified to
set small, soft rivets, brass grommets or pins, near the edges of materials
(sheetmetal) by a few modifications to the existing jaws, or making a
replacement jaw set.
Jaws could be fabricated which can deform small sections of soft wire into
miniature rivets.

The heavy duty F-style forged steel frames are essentially a
Roper-Whitney-type punch frame with a 90 degree head.. fairly easily
modified to use as a punch.
These F-style frames are a portable, miniature presses that can be modified
for a multitude of bending pressing or forming tasks.

I've been finding numerous examples of the very durable, versatile hand
crimp tools on eBay for $10 plus a little shipping, or less.

There are usually an abundance of commonly available materials to use for
crimping.
Brass, copper, aluminum or thin steel tubing or metallic eyelets, etc.

Crimping a sort length of tubing onto the ends of small diameter wire rope
(garage door cable) will ensure that the end doesn't get frayed. Copper,
brass or nickel silver tips on your shoelace ends, if you'd care to.

I suspect that there are a wide variety of uses for many of the durable,
slightly worn, surplus deal crimp tools.

--
WB
..........



 
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