Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. I recently
washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out of the dryer lint
trap, which was pretty clogged. I thought "ah ha! this has been the
problem all along, and now the dryer will work magnificently!" Instead,
it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone
to clog things completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to
my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as my hand. So I'm
pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well
because of the high velocity then sticks in the 8" section, and (b) that
I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:41:43 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:



I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#flue-brushes/=95ai5b

--
Ned Simmons

Tim,
My first thought is that it is a fire just waiting to happen. The next thing I'm thinking is that there is no economical way to
clean it adequately with confidence. So I would simply make a new one. My two cents.
Steve

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message ...
Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about
20 feet. Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter. The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8"
diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. I recently washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out
of the dryer lint trap, which was pretty clogged. I thought "ah ha! this has been the problem all along, and now the dryer
will work magnificently!" Instead, it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone to clog things
completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as
my hand. So I'm pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well because of the high velocity then sticks
in the 8" section, and (b) that I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_
metalworking related), to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things up worse). Any suggestions in
case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do
this that involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

Steve Lusardi wrote:

Tim,
My first thought is that it is a fire just waiting to happen.

You would think that, but have you ever tried lighting dryer lint on
fire? It seems that modern clothing is loaded with fire retardant
chemicals and it just doesn't burn well at all.

The next thing I'm thinking is that there is no economical way to
clean it adequately with confidence. So I would simply make a new one. My two cents.
Steve

It seems that an 8" round flue brush pushed or pulled through the pipe
would do an acceptable job. Ideally you would get access to both ends of
the 8" pipe, so you could put the pole through to the far end, attach
the brush there and then pull it through. Repeat a few times until it's
coming out clean. You could also install a 4" pipe inside the 8" (after
cleaning) to eliminate the velocity loss issue.

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. I recently
washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out of the dryer lint
trap, which was pretty clogged. I thought "ah ha! this has been the
problem all along, and now the dryer will work magnificently!" Instead,
it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone
to clog things completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to
my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as my hand. So I'm
pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well
because of the high velocity then sticks in the 8" section, and (b) that
I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

Ace HW has flue brushes and the 4' fiberglass rod sections that
screw together to make any length rod.
Another option that may work is a high pressure high volume blower.
Do you have a friend with a woodworking dust collecter?
I believe you are right about the lower air velocity in the 8" section
being a problem. The original installer may have done this to get
around the 4" duct max length limit specified by the dryer manufacturer.
If you replace everything with 4" you may have too much back pressure
and too low an air flow for the dryer to operate properly and may even
risk a fire.
Art

Run a fish-tape in from the outside, and connect to your "scraper" or
brush at the inside end (perhaps one you can fit through the 4" hole if
you can't just pop the end of the 8" open), then pull out. The problem I
see with pushing a scraper in is that it will push lint ahead of it -
but if so, you can perhaps reach in the 4" hole and pull it out if the
end of the 8" is not open.

If it's solid metal duct, no reason to replace. That flexible corrugated
crap, you have to replace, and not with more flexible crap. Any vent
that long needs regular cleaning - 4" won't help much, if any (more duct
pressure loss, air still slows down, crap drops out). Best long-term
solution - move the dryer so it has a vent of 12-36 inches at most -
back it up to an outside wall and vent it straight out.

You may also need to take the dryer apart and really clean it out. After
extensive duct-cleaning we found about 90% of the problem in lint that
got past the lint-trap (which is, of course, what's also in your ducts)
and totally clogged up the area around the fan. That meant that the air
in the ducts wasn't moving very fast at all, which meant that lint
dropped out, etc.

The cussing is pretty much non-optional.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On 10/05/2010 01:38 PM, Ecnerwal wrote:
Run a fish-tape in from the outside, and connect to your "scraper" or
brush at the inside end (perhaps one you can fit through the 4" hole if
you can't just pop the end of the 8" open), then pull out. The problem I
see with pushing a scraper in is that it will push lint ahead of it -
but if so, you can perhaps reach in the 4" hole and pull it out if the
end of the 8" is not open.

Ooh -- I like that idea.

It turns out that most of the lint was in the upper half of the
four-inch pipe, with just a bit in the wider part. So much for physics,
eh? I got it cleaned out with a bent coat hanger and some elbow grease,
but if I can find a brush that'll go through the 4" section and expand
out to 8" you can bet I'll be giving it a whirl.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Steve Lusardi wrote:

Tim,
My first thought is that it is a fire just waiting to happen.

You would think that, but have you ever tried lighting dryer lint on
fire? It seems that modern clothing is loaded with fire retardant
chemicals and it just doesn't burn well at all.

I can start it with a spark from flint. It burns pretty well for me.

Ecnerwal wrote in
:


The cussing is pretty much non-optional.


Recent research has shown that cussing reduces pain:

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/n...ignobels-2010-
science-health-environment-nation/

(among other bits of interesting research)

Doug White

On Oct 5, 2:41*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. *I recently
washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out of the dryer lint
trap, which was pretty clogged. *I thought "ah ha! *this has been the
problem all along, and now the dryer will work magnificently!" *Instead,
it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone
to clog things completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to
my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as my hand. *So I'm
pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well
because of the high velocity then sticks in the 8" section, and (b) that
I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). *Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. *I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Serviceshttp://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details athttp://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

If you replace any elbows with tees, you can cap the unused branch and
remove it when you need to do a clean out. I also have a long dryer
run and I've looked for a booster fan, but they don't seem to be
common or easily available.

On 2010-10-05, Tim Wescott wrote:
Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

[ ... ]

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Get a shop vac, and turn up an adaptor to 14 feet of the nearest
size of PVC pipe and slide it into the horizontal pipe from outside the
house. If the PVC pipe clogs, pull it out and set the shop vac up to
blow through it to clear the lint out. (Your yard may look interesting
when you are done, however. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Oct 5, 3:37*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-10-05, Tim Wescott wrote:

Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.

* * * * Get a shop vac,

Good idea; if it isn't enough, consider the possibilities with a shop
vac on end A and a leaf blower on end B...

A teaspoon of calcium carbide, tipped into a cup of water, with a
spark ignitor,
should be left as a last resort.

On Oct 5, 4:17*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Steve Lusardi wrote:

Tim,
My first thought is that it is a fire just waiting to happen.

You would think that, but have you ever tried lighting dryer lint on
fire? It seems that modern clothing is loaded with fire retardant
chemicals and it just doesn't burn well at all.

Tell that to TWO homeowners on my block who had non-trivial fires from
exeactly this. A firefighter on the scene of one of those fires told
me that they put out a hundred or so of thes a year, in my little town
alone.


The next thing I'm thinking is that there is no economical way to
clean it adequately with confidence. So I would simply make a new one. My two cents.
Steve

It seems that an 8" round flue brush pushed or pulled through the pipe
would do an acceptable job. Ideally you would get access to both ends of
the 8" pipe, so you could put the pole through to the far end, attach
the brush there and then pull it through. Repeat a few times until it's
coming out clean. You could also install a 4" pipe inside the 8" (after
cleaning) to eliminate the velocity loss issue.

That and a shop vac. My venty is only six feet of the 4" metallic flex
pipe. I use this brush http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-v...ush-92396.html
and a shop vac to clean it every few months.

In article
,
rangerssuck wrote:

That and a shop vac. My venty is only six feet of the 4" metallic flex
pipe. I use this brush
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-v...ush-92396.html
and a shop vac to clean it every few months.

You'll have less buildup to clean, it will be easier to clean, and
you'll have a much better chance (not guarantee, chance) of any fire
being "trivial" (ie, contained in the vent until it burns out) if you
replace that flex-foil junk with even the basic aluminum straight-pipe
and elbows. BTDT.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On Oct 5, 1:17*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Steve Lusardi wrote:

Tim,
My first thought is that it is a fire just waiting to happen.

You would think that, but have you ever tried lighting dryer lint on
fire? It seems that modern clothing is loaded with fire retardant
chemicals and it just doesn't burn well at all.

The next thing I'm thinking is that there is no economical way to
clean it adequately with confidence. So I would simply make a new one. My two cents.
Steve

It seems that an 8" round flue brush pushed or pulled through the pipe
would do an acceptable job. Ideally you would get access to both ends of
the 8" pipe, so you could put the pole through to the far end, attach
the brush there and then pull it through. Repeat a few times until it's
coming out clean. You could also install a 4" pipe inside the 8" (after
cleaning) to eliminate the velocity loss issue.

When I was in high school, everyone had a required study period in the
library. The library had large tables with four chairs, two on a side.
When the weather was warm, people tended to prop a book up in front of
them and take a nap. Also, boys wore all cotton socks. After washing a
few times, they were all fuzzy on the outside. Some lazy days, we
would catch a guy napping and use a lighter to set the sock fuzz on
fire. Burned really quick and hot, then went out. Boy, did they wake
up quick and holler! Librarian never did figure out what happened.

Paul

On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:41:43 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. I recently
washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out of the dryer lint
trap, which was pretty clogged. I thought "ah ha! this has been the
problem all along, and now the dryer will work magnificently!" Instead,
it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone
to clog things completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to
my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as my hand. So I'm
pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well
because of the high velocity then sticks in the 8" section, and (b) that
I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

OR

2) Pick up a pair of 4-5" and 8-9" nylon brushes for duct cleaning.
Undo the connections and separate the pieces. Fasten leaded strings to
the brushes and snake them through the ducts. Blow out the dust with
compressed air and/or wrap an old dish towel on the brush and snake em
through again. Refasten ducting and take a shower.

http://shop.dryerbox.com/s.nl/it.A/id.43/.f with a 10' line connected!
Their a6-LintEater kit ain't too high at $30. (std. disclaimer)

[ALERT: Set down coffee cup now.]

P.S: Forget trying to use anything from that Fuller Brush lesbo in
Ohio. He doesn't build anything soft enough for wimmenz work. A
direct quote "My brushes would scratch your eyes out, beeyatch!"
I think he meant that the high-quality, hardened steel wire would
scratch the zinc right off the ducting and allow it to rust. At least
its sounds like what he meant to me. shrug

--
Know how to listen, and you will
profit even from those who talk badly.
-- Plutarch

On Tue, 5 Oct 2010 21:57:26 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Tim,
My first thought is that it is a fire just waiting to happen. The next thing I'm thinking is that there is no economical way to
clean it adequately with confidence. So I would simply make a new one. My two cents.

Steve, all the parts are easily separable and accessible, it's galv
tube, and dust wipes off with almost anything. What's the scare?

Most fires are in the dryer itself and happen only when the tubing is
entirely plugged. Clean below your lint trap, too.

--
Know how to listen, and you will
profit even from those who talk badly.
-- Plutarch

On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:37:58 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-10-05, Tim Wescott wrote:
Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.
....
Get a shop vac, and turn up an adaptor to 14 feet of the nearest
size of PVC pipe and slide it into the horizontal pipe from outside the
house. If the PVC pipe clogs, pull it out and set the shop vac up to
blow through it to clear the lint out. (Your yard may look interesting
when you are done, however. :-)

Why 14 feet of PVC? Seems like 12 feet (to match the length of the
8" x 12' horizontal run) would be better. Anyway, having a
removable, cleanable, interior tube sounds like a good idea.
But rather than using nearly-8"-OD PVC, perhaps use inexpensive
Sched. 10 4" PVC, with appropriate-diameter 'sabots' to support it.

--
jiw

On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:41:43 -0700, Tim Wescott wrote:

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

If it were my house, I'd do everything in my power to shorten the path
from the dryer to the outside. Move the dryer, cut a new hole in the
wall, whatever it takes to minimize the length of ductwork the lint
has to transit.

In the interim, a leaf blower and flue brush sounds like a plan. ;-)

Good Luck!
Rich

On 2010-10-06, James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:37:58 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-10-05, Tim Wescott wrote:
Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.
...
Get a shop vac, and turn up an adaptor to 14 feet of the nearest
size of PVC pipe and slide it into the horizontal pipe from outside the
house. If the PVC pipe clogs, pull it out and set the shop vac up to
blow through it to clear the lint out. (Your yard may look interesting
when you are done, however. :-)

Why 14 feet of PVC? Seems like 12 feet (to match the length of the
8" x 12' horizontal run) would be better.

To reach to the back of the 12' ducting, while keeping a couple
of feet outside to use to control the direction. You are using this as
an extension to the shop vac hose to reach back into the ducting, not
using this as a replacement for the ducting.

Anyway, having a
removable, cleanable, interior tube sounds like a good idea.
But rather than using nearly-8"-OD PVC, perhaps use inexpensive
Sched. 10 4" PVC, with appropriate-diameter 'sabots' to support it.

I wasn't talking about matching the size of the PVC to the
ducting, but rather matching it to the size of the shop vac hose. No
point in making the diameter of the PVC larger than the shop vac's hose,
you would simply lose airflow speed and thus carry dust and particles
less well.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Oct 5, 10:17*am, "Pete C." wrote:
Steve Lusardi wrote:

Tim,
My first thought is that it is a fire just waiting to happen.

You would think that, but have you ever tried lighting dryer lint on
fire? It seems that modern clothing is loaded with fire retardant
chemicals and it just doesn't burn well at all.

The next thing I'm thinking is that there is no economical way to
clean it adequately with confidence. So I would simply make a new one. My two cents.
Steve

It seems that an 8" round flue brush pushed or pulled through the pipe
would do an acceptable job. Ideally you would get access to both ends of
the 8" pipe, so you could put the pole through to the far end, attach
the brush there and then pull it through. Repeat a few times until it's
coming out clean. You could also install a 4" pipe inside the 8" (after
cleaning) to eliminate the velocity loss issue.

My sister had a fire in the pipe. Fortunately It was contained in the
metal pipe.
Karl

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-10-06, James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:37:58 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-10-05, Tim Wescott wrote:
Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.
...
Get a shop vac, and turn up an adaptor to 14 feet of the nearest
size of PVC pipe and slide it into the horizontal pipe from outside the
house. If the PVC pipe clogs, pull it out and set the shop vac up to
blow through it to clear the lint out. (Your yard may look interesting
when you are done, however. :-)
Why 14 feet of PVC? Seems like 12 feet (to match the length of the
8" x 12' horizontal run) would be better.

To reach to the back of the 12' ducting, while keeping a couple
of feet outside to use to control the direction. You are using this as
an extension to the shop vac hose to reach back into the ducting, not
using this as a replacement for the ducting.

Anyway, having a
removable, cleanable, interior tube sounds like a good idea.
But rather than using nearly-8"-OD PVC, perhaps use inexpensive
Sched. 10 4" PVC, with appropriate-diameter 'sabots' to support it.

I wasn't talking about matching the size of the PVC to the
ducting, but rather matching it to the size of the shop vac hose. No
point in making the diameter of the PVC larger than the shop vac's hose,
you would simply lose airflow speed and thus carry dust and particles
less well.

Enjoy,
DoN.



Actually, there are good reasons NOT to use the 8 inch diameter stuff.

From an aerodynamics point of view that transition from 4 inch to 8 inch
is a disaster.

While only twice the diameter, it's four times the area.

Any pressure from the airflow in the 4" section disappears completely!



--

Richard Lamb

On 10/05/2010 07:46 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:41:43 -0700, Tim
wrote:

Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. I recently
washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out of the dryer lint
trap, which was pretty clogged. I thought "ah ha! this has been the
problem all along, and now the dryer will work magnificently!" Instead,
it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone
to clog things completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to
my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as my hand. So I'm
pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well
because of the high velocity then sticks in the 8" section, and (b) that
I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

_I_ made the yuppie mistake when we bought this place of looking at my
rapidly rising income (since college) and projecting further astonishing
rises in the future, then setting a house price. That was in 2001,
right when the .com bubble burst and engineering salaries flattened for
the long term.

I'm doing OK, but I don't have _that_ much spare money. Particularly
when I'm doing work that requires me to go do something mindless for a
while I try to do these little jobs by myself.

OR

2) Pick up a pair of 4-5" and 8-9" nylon brushes for duct cleaning.
Undo the connections and separate the pieces. Fasten leaded strings to
the brushes and snake them through the ducts. Blow out the dust with
compressed air and/or wrap an old dish towel on the brush and snake em
through again. Refasten ducting and take a shower.

http://shop.dryerbox.com/s.nl/it.A/id.43/.f with a 10' line connected!
Their a6-LintEater kit ain't too high at $30. (std. disclaimer)

Any local places that I could go to, or are they just a mail-order
thing? Someone suggested a clean-out T where the pipe reduces to 4",
which makes tons and tons of sense the way they're laid out in my house.
If I can't get a brush flexible enough to do the whole shebang in one
go that's what I'll do.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On 10/05/2010 07:46 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:41:43 -0700, Tim
wrote:

Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. I recently
washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out of the dryer lint
trap, which was pretty clogged. I thought "ah ha! this has been the
problem all along, and now the dryer will work magnificently!" Instead,
it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone
to clog things completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to
my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as my hand. So I'm
pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well
because of the high velocity then sticks in the 8" section, and (b) that
I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

_I_ made the yuppie mistake when we bought this place of looking at my
rapidly rising income (since college) and projecting further astonishing
rises in the future, then setting a house price. That was in 2001, right
when the .com bubble burst and engineering salaries flattened for the long
term.

I'm doing OK, but I don't have _that_ much spare money. Particularly when
I'm doing work that requires me to go do something mindless for a while I
try to do these little jobs by myself.

OR

2) Pick up a pair of 4-5" and 8-9" nylon brushes for duct cleaning.
Undo the connections and separate the pieces. Fasten leaded strings to
the brushes and snake them through the ducts. Blow out the dust with
compressed air and/or wrap an old dish towel on the brush and snake em
through again. Refasten ducting and take a shower.

http://shop.dryerbox.com/s.nl/it.A/id.43/.f with a 10' line connected!
Their a6-LintEater kit ain't too high at $30. (std. disclaimer)

Any local places that I could go to, or are they just a mail-order thing?
Someone suggested a clean-out T where the pipe reduces to 4", which makes
tons and tons of sense the way they're laid out in my house. If I can't
get a brush flexible enough to do the whole shebang in one go that's what
I'll do.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

I have a similar long dryer vent. I don't have a brush, but I loosen the
lint with an electrical fish tape and then suck out the debris with a shop
vac.

On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 09:25:17 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/05/2010 07:46 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:41:43 -0700, Tim
wrote:

Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. I recently
washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out of the dryer lint
trap, which was pretty clogged. I thought "ah ha! this has been the
problem all along, and now the dryer will work magnificently!" Instead,
it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone
to clog things completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to
my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as my hand. So I'm
pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well
because of the high velocity then sticks in the 8" section, and (b) that
I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

_I_ made the yuppie mistake when we bought this place of looking at my
rapidly rising income (since college) and projecting further astonishing
rises in the future, then setting a house price. That was in 2001,
right when the .com bubble burst and engineering salaries flattened for
the long term.

Ouch!


I'm doing OK, but I don't have _that_ much spare money. Particularly
when I'm doing work that requires me to go do something mindless for a
while I try to do these little jobs by myself.

Little mindless tasks can take weeks of stress off you, if you let
'em, Tim. Ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.


OR

2) Pick up a pair of 4-5" and 8-9" nylon brushes for duct cleaning.
Undo the connections and separate the pieces. Fasten leaded strings to
the brushes and snake them through the ducts. Blow out the dust with
compressed air and/or wrap an old dish towel on the brush and snake em
through again. Refasten ducting and take a shower.

http://shop.dryerbox.com/s.nl/it.A/id.43/.f with a 10' line connected!
Their a6-LintEater kit ain't too high at $30. (std. disclaimer)

Any local places that I could go to, or are they just a mail-order
thing? Someone suggested a clean-out T where the pipe reduces to 4",
which makes tons and tons of sense the way they're laid out in my house.

Your local Ace Hardware may stock those. If not, you can get them to
ship to yours without charge. Saves $11. That kit has enough goodies
to easily warrant the price, IMHO. I may get one, too, and offer it as
a service to my clients. I have a couple with looooong runs of 4"
which could use it.


If I can't get a brush flexible enough to do the whole shebang in one
go that's what I'll do.

If you try to do that, you'll leave the corners uncleaned and lint
will build up there, creating a quicker-to-soil tube and (slightly)
increasing fire hazards by storing fuel for it, should it escape the
dryer proper. I strongly recommend against a quickie solution since
an 8" brush will not be working at its optimum when squoze to 4".
Is your converter from 4-8" a conical or flat style? Since you say
that's where the congestion was, I'm thinking flat. Check some online
sheetmetal places for true conical style. It'll give you smoother
airflow and less chance of the backup you now have. Go with an overfit
rather than corrugated innerfit style if possible.

Audel has a fantastic old book on making such fittings. Someone stole
ours from the library, but they're still available. _Sheet Metal
Pattern Layouts_ http://fwd4.me/hl0 from $75 at Amazon. If someone
here has one, they might copy relevant pages for you, if your fancy
cad program doesn't do it for you already. I love those old books,
though.

--
You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.
--Jack London

On 10/06/2010 01:11 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 09:25:17 -0700, Tim
wrote:

On 10/05/2010 07:46 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

(On-topic stuff snipped)


1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

_I_ made the yuppie mistake when we bought this place of looking at my
rapidly rising income (since college) and projecting further astonishing
rises in the future, then setting a house price. That was in 2001,
right when the .com bubble burst and engineering salaries flattened for
the long term.

Ouch!

(More on-topic stuff snipped)

I was driving someplace listening to "talk of the nation" on NPR, when
some guy came on whining -- literally, he had that tone of voice --
about how he and his wife had bought a really nice place, planning on
selling it after the value had appreciated, but then the housing bubble
burst because of "those speculators".

He wanted to know how he could be sure that he wouldn't lose even _more_
value because of "those speculators" causing another bubble.

I was kind of glad that I wasn't in the loop, because I would have said
some really unfortunate things starting with "look you dumb ****...".

Not least of which would be comparing the definition of "speculator"
with "someone who buys a house counting on the value to appreciate", and
asking how you can have a bubble without prices rising first...


We did buy the place without the expectation that it would go up much in
price -- I thought real estate was overvalued in '01, and I quite
frankly expected that it would soon level off and go into the doldrums
the way that it has in the past after similar periods of an overheated
market. So I was thinking "stupid short-term investment, moderate
long-term investment, wow that's a neat house". I _didn't_ expect that
the market would keep smoking crack for another seven years, leading to
the crash that we all experienced.

So we bought it thinking "this'll be easy because things will just keep
getting better, and in the unlikely event of a water landing there's
enough cushion to float". I could have screwed myself over worse, and
I'm glad that I exercised what caution I did.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 14:19:16 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/06/2010 01:11 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 09:25:17 -0700, Tim
wrote:

On 10/05/2010 07:46 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

(On-topic stuff snipped)


1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

_I_ made the yuppie mistake when we bought this place of looking at my
rapidly rising income (since college) and projecting further astonishing
rises in the future, then setting a house price. That was in 2001,
right when the .com bubble burst and engineering salaries flattened for
the long term.

Ouch!

(More on-topic stuff snipped)

I was driving someplace listening to "talk of the nation" on NPR, when
some guy came on whining -- literally, he had that tone of voice --
about how he and his wife had bought a really nice place, planning on
selling it after the value had appreciated, but then the housing bubble
burst because of "those speculators".

He wanted to know how he could be sure that he wouldn't lose even _more_
value because of "those speculators" causing another bubble.

I was kind of glad that I wasn't in the loop, because I would have said
some really unfortunate things starting with "look you dumb ****...".

Not least of which would be comparing the definition of "speculator"
with "someone who buys a house counting on the value to appreciate", and
asking how you can have a bubble without prices rising first...


We did buy the place without the expectation that it would go up much in
price -- I thought real estate was overvalued in '01, and I quite
frankly expected that it would soon level off and go into the doldrums
the way that it has in the past after similar periods of an overheated
market. So I was thinking "stupid short-term investment, moderate
long-term investment, wow that's a neat house". I _didn't_ expect that
the market would keep smoking crack for another seven years, leading to
the crash that we all experienced.

So we bought it thinking "this'll be easy because things will just keep
getting better, and in the unlikely event of a water landing there's
enough cushion to float". I could have screwed myself over worse, and
I'm glad that I exercised what caution I did.

Kudos. Now, what happens when the other shoe drops next year?
The Chosen One hasn't made anything safer in the housing market and
mortgages yet. Then the new flap. I've been out of the loop with
this flu.

Good luck, mortgage owners!

--
You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.
--Jack London

Tim Wescott wrote:
Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

Here is a good totorial on dryer venting.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml

If you have an electric dryer you also have the optopn of using a wet
vent. That device vents the dryer into a bucket of water and the
water catches any stray lint. The humidity and the heat are deposited
in your house however this time of year that is not usually a problem
unless the humidity is really high.

In article ,
says...

On 10/05/2010 07:46 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 12:41:43 -0700, Tim
wrote:

Because the guy who built my house was long on nifty ideas but didn't
always pay attention to detail, the dryer vent runs about 20 feet.
Eight feet of that, from the dryer up into the attic, is 4" diameter.
The rest is a 12-foot long horizontal run of 8" diameter.

The dryer has been slowly getting worse and worse at drying. I recently
washed my wallet, and had to fish my credit cards out of the dryer lint
trap, which was pretty clogged. I thought "ah ha! this has been the
problem all along, and now the dryer will work magnificently!" Instead,
it seems that whatever loose balls of lint that I stirred up have gone
to clog things completely.

I just took the flapper valve off the house, and just reaching in up to
my elbow scraped off a good thick wad of lint as big as my hand. So I'm
pretty sure that (a) the lint gets through the 4" section pretty well
because of the high velocity then sticks in the 8" section, and (b) that
I need to get it out.

I've got a 12' long stick that I'm going to experiment with putting a
bent piece of sheet metal on (so this post _is_ metalworking related),
to see if I can get the lint scraped out (instead of just jamming things
up worse). Any suggestions in case that doesn't work?

Clearly replacing the pipe is an option, whether I replace it with new
or just clean it and replace it. I'd like a way to do this that
involves less cussing, though.

Your thoughts appreciated.

1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

_I_ made the yuppie mistake when we bought this place of looking at my
rapidly rising income (since college) and projecting further astonishing
rises in the future, then setting a house price. That was in 2001,
right when the .com bubble burst and engineering salaries flattened for
the long term.

I'm doing OK, but I don't have _that_ much spare money. Particularly
when I'm doing work that requires me to go do something mindless for a
while I try to do these little jobs by myself.

OR

2) Pick up a pair of 4-5" and 8-9" nylon brushes for duct cleaning.

Our dryer is in the mech room with about 12' of 6" galv connecting the
dryer vent to the outside wall. Every couple of months, I have to clear
the lint. Here's what I do:
With the dryer running, I stick the end of a battery drill powered sewer
snake into the vent tube. Running the drill on low speed, I slowly
extend the snake into the tube until I get to the last 90 before the
dryer. Since I do this at least quarterly, I have a piece of tape on
the snake to tell me when it's far enough.
I run the dryer to blow the loose stuff out. Otherwise it will plug the
duct. DAMHIKT
I can clean the duct in about 5 minutes. Since I have to use both hands
for the drill and the snake, the lint blows all over the yard.
In her own subtle way, SWMBO lets me know the lint balls need to be
cleaned up, another 5 minutes.
YMMV

On Tue, 05 Oct 2010 15:17:03 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Steve Lusardi wrote:

Tim,
My first thought is that it is a fire just waiting to happen.

You would think that, but have you ever tried lighting dryer lint on
fire? It seems that modern clothing is loaded with fire retardant
chemicals and it just doesn't burn well at all.

The next thing I'm thinking is that there is no economical way to
clean it adequately with confidence. So I would simply make a new one. My two cents.
Steve

It seems that an 8" round flue brush pushed or pulled through the pipe
would do an acceptable job. Ideally you would get access to both ends of
the 8" pipe, so you could put the pole through to the far end, attach
the brush there and then pull it through. Repeat a few times until it's
coming out clean. You could also install a 4" pipe inside the 8" (after
cleaning) to eliminate the velocity loss issue.


One can, in lue of a "flue brush", use a standard wire wheel from the
shop (of the right diameter or a smidge smaller) on a piece of 3/8 all
thread or even several.




I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)

On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 19:32:58 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 14:19:16 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 10/06/2010 01:11 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 09:25:17 -0700, Tim
wrote:

On 10/05/2010 07:46 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

(On-topic stuff snipped)


1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

_I_ made the yuppie mistake when we bought this place of looking at my
rapidly rising income (since college) and projecting further astonishing
rises in the future, then setting a house price. That was in 2001,
right when the .com bubble burst and engineering salaries flattened for
the long term.

Ouch!

(More on-topic stuff snipped)

I was driving someplace listening to "talk of the nation" on NPR, when
some guy came on whining -- literally, he had that tone of voice --
about how he and his wife had bought a really nice place, planning on
selling it after the value had appreciated, but then the housing bubble
burst because of "those speculators".

He wanted to know how he could be sure that he wouldn't lose even _more_
value because of "those speculators" causing another bubble.

I was kind of glad that I wasn't in the loop, because I would have said
some really unfortunate things starting with "look you dumb ****...".

Not least of which would be comparing the definition of "speculator"
with "someone who buys a house counting on the value to appreciate", and
asking how you can have a bubble without prices rising first...


We did buy the place without the expectation that it would go up much in
price -- I thought real estate was overvalued in '01, and I quite
frankly expected that it would soon level off and go into the doldrums
the way that it has in the past after similar periods of an overheated
market. So I was thinking "stupid short-term investment, moderate
long-term investment, wow that's a neat house". I _didn't_ expect that
the market would keep smoking crack for another seven years, leading to
the crash that we all experienced.

So we bought it thinking "this'll be easy because things will just keep
getting better, and in the unlikely event of a water landing there's
enough cushion to float". I could have screwed myself over worse, and
I'm glad that I exercised what caution I did.

Kudos. Now, what happens when the other shoe drops next year?
The Chosen One hasn't made anything safer in the housing market and
mortgages yet. Then the new flap. I've been out of the loop with
this flu.

Good luck, mortgage owners!


Now that BofA has stopped selling off their "foreclosed homes" pending a
review of their rubber stamped foreclosures....things are going to get
really really interesting indeed.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-11504863


Seems that BofA..and a large number of other lenders have been stealing
homes from people current in their payments....

Crom but I hate Bank of America and have for 20 yrs.



I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)

I'd like to see what some of the people kicked out of their house got
out of the house when the greedy banks take them back.

So much greed in the banks now.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 10/9/2010 4:59 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 19:32:58 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 14:19:16 -0700, Tim
wrote:

On 10/06/2010 01:11 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 09:25:17 -0700, Tim
wrote:

On 10/05/2010 07:46 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

(On-topic stuff snipped)


1) With _your_ money, you could hire a guy to do it for you who'd only
charge about 12x the duct replacement price by a plumber.

_I_ made the yuppie mistake when we bought this place of looking at my
rapidly rising income (since college) and projecting further astonishing
rises in the future, then setting a house price. That was in 2001,
right when the .com bubble burst and engineering salaries flattened for
the long term.

Ouch!

(More on-topic stuff snipped)

I was driving someplace listening to "talk of the nation" on NPR, when
some guy came on whining -- literally, he had that tone of voice --
about how he and his wife had bought a really nice place, planning on
selling it after the value had appreciated, but then the housing bubble
burst because of "those speculators".

He wanted to know how he could be sure that he wouldn't lose even _more_
value because of "those speculators" causing another bubble.

I was kind of glad that I wasn't in the loop, because I would have said
some really unfortunate things starting with "look you dumb ****...".

Not least of which would be comparing the definition of "speculator"
with "someone who buys a house counting on the value to appreciate", and
asking how you can have a bubble without prices rising first...


We did buy the place without the expectation that it would go up much in
price -- I thought real estate was overvalued in '01, and I quite
frankly expected that it would soon level off and go into the doldrums
the way that it has in the past after similar periods of an overheated
market. So I was thinking "stupid short-term investment, moderate
long-term investment, wow that's a neat house". I _didn't_ expect that
the market would keep smoking crack for another seven years, leading to
the crash that we all experienced.

So we bought it thinking "this'll be easy because things will just keep
getting better, and in the unlikely event of a water landing there's
enough cushion to float". I could have screwed myself over worse, and
I'm glad that I exercised what caution I did.

Kudos. Now, what happens when the other shoe drops next year?
The Chosen One hasn't made anything safer in the housing market and
mortgages yet. Then the new flap. I've been out of the loop with
this flu.

Good luck, mortgage owners!


Now that BofA has stopped selling off their "foreclosed homes" pending a
review of their rubber stamped foreclosures....things are going to get
really really interesting indeed.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-11504863


Seems that BofA..and a large number of other lenders have been stealing
homes from people current in their payments....

Crom but I hate Bank of America and have for 20 yrs.



I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)

On Sat, 09 Oct 2010 20:57:06 -0500, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

I'd like to see what some of the people kicked out of their house got out
of the house when the greedy banks take them back.

So much greed in the banks now.

And, of course, you turn a blind eye to the greed of the politicians and
their unelected bureaucrat minions, who are the ones with the license to
steal.

The people who bought mortgages that they and the banks knew that they
couldn't afford, because they had intent to flip the property and screw
the next guy, those people, when the bubble burst, should have simply
gone broke.

If Big Uncle Sugardaddy hadn't stepped in and taken control, the economy
would have recovered in less than a year, just like with the dotcom bubble
and the 1985 crash.

And then Obama, rather than fix the Bush fiasco, doubles down on it.

Is Obama just a colored Dubya?

Thanks,
Rich

Gunner Asch on Sat, 09 Oct 2010 14:59:12 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

So we bought it thinking "this'll be easy because things will just keep
getting better, and in the unlikely event of a water landing there's
enough cushion to float". I could have screwed myself over worse, and
I'm glad that I exercised what caution I did.

Kudos. Now, what happens when the other shoe drops next year?
The Chosen One hasn't made anything safer in the housing market and
mortgages yet. Then the new flap. I've been out of the loop with
this flu.

Good luck, mortgage owners!


Now that BofA has stopped selling off their "foreclosed homes" pending a
review of their rubber stamped foreclosures....things are going to get
really really interesting indeed.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-11504863


Seems that BofA..and a large number of other lenders have been stealing
homes from people current in their payments....

Crom but I hate Bank of America and have for 20 yrs.

And now, the market is not going to clear. And until that
happens, selling houses is going to be an uphill slog in the mud.

--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

Rich - I don't have a blind eye.

But when I hear that one 'group' of a bank is refinancing a home
and another inside the same bank is filing to take the same house, lock stock
and barrel, I wonder what the moral stance they have.

Remember these people had money tied into their homes and most of it was lost.

Banks gave unsecured loans to undocumented and questionable people (credit
cards, auto loans and more) that once they got stung on those they began
to charge fees on everything as well as demand money from Uncle Sam.

I don't think this is a new problem just another troth in wave sets of
unknown nerves. Companies world wide are shaky as are countries. The
export of so many jobs and then loss of jobs to those that came really
screwed up the economy. Massive tax issues in Ca. killed much of that
economic engine. Now the whole country is looking down the gun of depression.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 10/9/2010 10:06 PM, Richard the Dreaded Libertarian wrote:
On Sat, 09 Oct 2010 20:57:06 -0500, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

I'd like to see what some of the people kicked out of their house got out
of the house when the greedy banks take them back.

So much greed in the banks now.

And, of course, you turn a blind eye to the greed of the politicians and
their unelected bureaucrat minions, who are the ones with the license to
steal.

The people who bought mortgages that they and the banks knew that they
couldn't afford, because they had intent to flip the property and screw
the next guy, those people, when the bubble burst, should have simply
gone broke.

If Big Uncle Sugardaddy hadn't stepped in and taken control, the economy
would have recovered in less than a year, just like with the dotcom bubble
and the 1985 crash.

And then Obama, rather than fix the Bush fiasco, doubles down on it.

Is Obama just a colored Dubya?

Thanks,
Rich