Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Welding photography

Has anyone here any experience with welding photography? I am going to take
some pictures of welds during real time welding. Does the shielding of a
normal lens work?

I have a Sony DSCH1 camera. A decent camera that is worth about $300. I
don't want to screw it up. I may have to buy a dedicated camera, though, as
I will have to make a protective box and a remote shutter release.

Steve


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Default Welding photography

On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:59:29 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Has anyone here any experience with welding photography? I am going to take
some pictures of welds during real time welding. Does the shielding of a
normal lens work?

I have a Sony DSCH1 camera. A decent camera that is worth about $300. I
don't want to screw it up. I may have to buy a dedicated camera, though, as
I will have to make a protective box and a remote shutter release.

Steve


Yes, shielding the lens will work. An ordinary filter plate will stop
UV and IR, and attenuate visible light to a suitable level.

The camera needn't be in a box. Just a piece of filter plate over the
lens will suffice. You can get a round 50mm (2") disc in darkness up
to shade 14 from these guys:
http://www.phillips-safety.com/store...hp?cPath=41_66

Just go by whatever shade you use in your regular mask, probably about
shade 8 or 10.

Some cameras use IR or visible light from the camera for autofocussing
in what the camera perceives as "dark" conditions. That optical path
would have to be unobscured, or the camera set to manual focus if
that's possible on the Sony.

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Default Welding photography

On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:59:29 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:



I have a Sony DSCH1 camera.


That camera takes a 58mm filter. All you'd need to do is buy one of
those 50mm round welding filters for $2.49 from
http://www.phillips-safety.com/store...hp?cPath=41_66
and then make or adapt a filter holder to attach it to the camera.
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Default Welding photography

On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 12:02:22 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:59:29 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:



I have a Sony DSCH1 camera.


That camera takes a 58mm filter. All you'd need to do is buy one of
those 50mm round welding filters for $2.49 from
http://www.phillips-safety.com/store...hp?cPath=41_66
and then make or adapt a filter holder to attach it to the camera.



See "Cokin filter holders" as well

Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)
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Default Welding photography


"anorton" wrote in message
...

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:59:29 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Has anyone here any experience with welding photography? I am going to
take
some pictures of welds during real time welding. Does the shielding of a
normal lens work?

I have a Sony DSCH1 camera. A decent camera that is worth about $300. I
don't want to screw it up. I may have to buy a dedicated camera, though,
as
I will have to make a protective box and a remote shutter release.

Steve


Yes, shielding the lens will work. An ordinary filter plate will stop
UV and IR, and attenuate visible light to a suitable level.

The camera needn't be in a box. Just a piece of filter plate over the
lens will suffice. You can get a round 50mm (2") disc in darkness up
to shade 14 from these guys:
http://www.phillips-safety.com/store...hp?cPath=41_66

Just go by whatever shade you use in your regular mask, probably about
shade 8 or 10.

Some cameras use IR or visible light from the camera for autofocussing
in what the camera perceives as "dark" conditions. That optical path
would have to be unobscured, or the camera set to manual focus if
that's possible on the Sony.


Even if the IR focus LED is left uncovered, the IR from the welding will
completely overwhelm it, so you really need manual focusing.


This camera has a manual focus mode, and I can take a laptop out there to
make sure the setting is spot on. I was just concerned if the brightness
would confuse/overwhelm the camera.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com




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Default Welding photography


"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"anorton" wrote in message
...

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:59:29 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Has anyone here any experience with welding photography? I am going to
take
some pictures of welds during real time welding. Does the shielding of
a
normal lens work?

I have a Sony DSCH1 camera. A decent camera that is worth about $300.
I
don't want to screw it up. I may have to buy a dedicated camera,
though, as
I will have to make a protective box and a remote shutter release.

Steve

Yes, shielding the lens will work. An ordinary filter plate will stop
UV and IR, and attenuate visible light to a suitable level.

The camera needn't be in a box. Just a piece of filter plate over the
lens will suffice. You can get a round 50mm (2") disc in darkness up
to shade 14 from these guys:
http://www.phillips-safety.com/store...hp?cPath=41_66

Just go by whatever shade you use in your regular mask, probably about
shade 8 or 10.

Some cameras use IR or visible light from the camera for autofocussing
in what the camera perceives as "dark" conditions. That optical path
would have to be unobscured, or the camera set to manual focus if
that's possible on the Sony.


Even if the IR focus LED is left uncovered, the IR from the welding will
completely overwhelm it, so you really need manual focusing.


This camera has a manual focus mode, and I can take a laptop out there to
make sure the setting is spot on. I was just concerned if the brightness
would confuse/overwhelm the camera.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com


You will definitely need the filter as mentioned before. If you want to do
something quick and dirty, one or two layers of aluminized mylar can also
work as a filter for a camera, as will exposed and developed B&W film.

Without a filter, the focused IR and UV might be enough to damage the color
filter layer on the CCD. One of the freeway traffic cameras I see on the
morning news has several permanent streaks across it from the rising sun.

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