LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

i

Ignoramus11220 wrote:

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

i

Check Kano Labs, makers of Kroil and lots of other good stuff, I'm sure
they have something suitable.

--Lots cheaper if you buy it by the gallon, then use a pump spray
bottle to apply it..

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Blue Cross socks us
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : $23,000/yr!! ...
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

Iggy,
I haven't found any good substitute to LPS2. It is a lot less expensive than the rust. I like the idea of gallon containers
though.
Steve

"Ignoramus11220" wrote in message ...
LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

i

On Mar 1, 10:38*am, Ignoramus11220 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11220.invalid wrote:
LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

i

Where the metal you are trying to protect?

Inside lots of things work...outside only a few things.

TMT

Aerokroil is supposed to be good. Not sure it's
any cheaper, though.

I'm told that LPS-1 "non oily" is good lube for
locks.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Ignoramus11220"
wrote in
message
...
LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is
light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It
also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of
a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can
be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

i

On Mon, 1 Mar 2010 20:54:15 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Aerokroil is supposed to be good. Not sure it's
any cheaper, though.

I'm told that LPS-1 "non oily" is good lube for
locks.
ATF

And, what does that mean?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

I'm told that LPS-1 "non oily" is good lube for
locks.
ATF

On Mon, 01 Mar 2010 10:38:09 -0600, Ignoramus11220
wrote:

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

i

Used motor oil meets your criteria.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

I've never used LPS-2, so I can't make a direct comparison,
but take a look at Black Bear Par-AL-Ketone sold by
Aircraft Spruce. It is intended as a rust preventative and can be
diluted with mineral spirits, or denatured alcohol if you want it to
dry out faster. In discussions on the net many years ago, I recall
it was said that it was the same or similar to what was used in the
Rusty Jones rust proofing for cars. It's off lable use is as a bullet
lubricant ala Lee Liquid Alox.

RWL

On Mar 1, 9:38*am, Ignoramus11220 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11220.invalid wrote:
LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

i

Look at what CRC offers. I've not used anything but their penetrant,
556, 356, 348 or one of them thread sizes. It worked OK. NAPA was
one source and I've seen it on real hardware store shelves. I like
the LPS line myself, but they seem to be really after the industrial
market, case lots, not the home shop onesies. I use more LPS 1 and 3
than 2.

Stan

wrote in message
...
On Mar 1, 9:38 am, Ignoramus11220 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11220.invalid wrote:
LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

i

Look at what CRC offers. I've not used anything but their penetrant,
556, 356, 348 or one of them thread sizes. It worked OK. NAPA was
one source and I've seen it on real hardware store shelves. I like
the LPS line myself, but they seem to be really after the industrial
market, case lots, not the home shop onesies. I use more LPS 1 and 3
than 2.

Stan



i keep having cans of any brand (LPS, CRC, etc.) of the waxy anti-rust stuff
leak out all the propellant. it sucks (because it's expensive). half full
cans of LPS 3 (and others) with no propellant left. one time i called LPS
and told them about it and they said they were going to send me replacements
and i waited a couple weeks and called them back and then they said they
weren't. i bought a bunch of the stuff from eastwood. they've got it in
metal cans, non-aerosol, like quart size. i put it in one of the plastic
containers (that come with the schutz gun) and the solvent evaporated
THROUGH the plastic container. now i have a SOLID container of wax
anti-rust stuff. gonna have to figure out a way to re-liquefy it. i don't
know how eastwood's prices compare to (what someone else suggested, gallon
non-aerosol).

http://www.eastwood.com/
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-heavy-dut...rust-32oz.html
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/prevention.html

how do their prices compare?

b.w.

William Wixon wrote:
i keep having cans of any brand (LPS, CRC, etc.) of the waxy anti-rust stuff
leak out all the propellant. it sucks (because it's expensive). half full
cans of LPS 3 (and others) with no propellant left. ...

You can re-pressurize aerosol cans with propane. I made an adapter for
recharging paint rattle cans:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...anAdapter2.jpg

It screws into the valve of a propane torch. I.e., in place of the
tube. Aerosol cans have different style valves & each style requires
its own adapter.

Bob

On Tue, 02 Mar 2010 17:54:08 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

William Wixon wrote:
i keep having cans of any brand (LPS, CRC, etc.) of the waxy anti-rust stuff
leak out all the propellant. it sucks (because it's expensive). half full
cans of LPS 3 (and others) with no propellant left. ...

You can re-pressurize aerosol cans with propane. I made an adapter for
recharging paint rattle cans:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...anAdapter2.jpg

It screws into the valve of a propane torch. I.e., in place of the
tube. Aerosol cans have different style valves & each style requires
its own adapter.

Bob

I did that too. Mine looks amazingly similar to yours, Bob, except
that mine isn't nearly as shiney.

On Mar 3, 12:42*am, Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 02 Mar 2010 17:54:08 -0500, Bob Engelhardt

You can re-pressurize aerosol cans with propane. *
I did that too. *Mine looks amazingly similar to yours, Bob, except
that mine isn't nearly as shiney. *

I once found a purse-size hairspray can with a tapered insert |=
pressed into the valve stem under the spray nozzle so it could be
refilled from a larger can by holding the stems together. Butane
lighter refills and starting fluid also worked with it as long as the
small can was in cold water.

I bought one hand-pump spray bottle of LPS3 and refilled it first from
the dead aerosol cans and then a gallon jug. It goes further, sprays
better and doesn't clog the nozzle if diluted about 1:4 with kerosine.
Shake before using because part of it precipitates out.

jsw

Don Foreman wrote:
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
....
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...anAdapter2.jpg
....

I did that too. Mine looks amazingly similar to yours, Bob, except
that mine isn't nearly as shiney.

Oh, that means that yours is older than mine, which means that I
probably copied yours. Thanks, Don.

Bob

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...

You can re-pressurize aerosol cans with propane. I made an adapter for
recharging paint rattle cans:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...anAdapter2.jpg

It screws into the valve of a propane torch. I.e., in place of the
tube. Aerosol cans have different style valves & each style requires its
own adapter.

Bob


that's pretty cool bob (and don).
just curious, the obvious question, how do you know now much gas to put in
the aerosol can? it is a "by ear" thing or is it not possible to over
pressurize a paint can using a propane tank?

b.w.

On Mar 4, 1:47*pm, "William Wixon" wrote:
...
...how do you know now much gas to put in
the aerosol can? *it is a "by ear" thing or is it not possible to over
pressurize a paint can using a propane tank?
b.w.

The quick test is to dent the side in a little with your thumb. Try
that with a new can to get the feel.

jsw

On Thu, 4 Mar 2010 12:47:08 -0600, "William Wixon"
wrote:


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...

You can re-pressurize aerosol cans with propane. I made an adapter for
recharging paint rattle cans:
http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...anAdapter2.jpg

It screws into the valve of a propane torch. I.e., in place of the
tube. Aerosol cans have different style valves & each style requires its
own adapter.

Bob


that's pretty cool bob (and don).
just curious, the obvious question, how do you know now much gas to put in
the aerosol can? it is a "by ear" thing or is it not possible to over
pressurize a paint can using a propane tank?

b.w.

The latter. Let it take all it will. The pressure won't (can't)
exceed the vapor pressure of propane. At 100 deg F the vapor pressure
of propane is 172 PSIG. Cans can handle considerably more than that.
Propane is used as propellant in some rattlecans.

"Ignoramus11220" wrote in message
...
LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks


You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to
find out.

In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Mar 2, 6:17*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Ignoramus11220" wrote in message

...

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to
find out.

In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for. The stuff
is basically a light petroleum fraction with other crap dissolved that
will evaporate leaving the other crap coating the surface and it's NOT
a lubricant or rust-preventative. So if you try using it on a squeaky
hinge, the squeak comes back, sometimes worse. Performance on rusty
stuff is no better than using kerosene. LPS 1 is a far better
penetrant and the coating it leaves IS a lubricant. I use it on
padlock innards, usually good for several years in fully exposed
locks. Keeps the disc locks from bending or busting keys.

There's one thing better than LPS 3, but it's not made anymore. LPS
100 was a white grease that was supposedly good for a whole year under
sea water. Used to use it on antenna rotator bearings, usually lasted
longer than the attached antennas.

Stan

wrote in message
...
On Mar 2, 6:17 pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Ignoramus11220" wrote in message

...

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to
find out.

In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for.

snip

They should fly banners behind airplanes announcing that fact. It would save
a lot of mistreated machinery.

I'd like to know what happened to WD-39...

--
Ed Huntress

I found another penetrating lubricant called PB-50 (by the same
company that makes PB Blaster). It is massively cheaper than LPS-2 and
is sold for $2.50 per can at Home Depot. The can is slightly smaller
than LPS-2, but the price difference more than makes up for it.

However, this PB-50 does not disperse widely, it shoots a jet of it.

So, there is no good alternative to LPS-2.

I agree with the opinion expressed here, that buying LPS-2 by the
gallon, and using spray bottles, is the best bet if I need to use a
lot of nondrying, easily sprayable, penetrating rust preventative.
This is what I will do. I have a large quantity of steel, tool steel
etc. I will sell some, but I will keep a lot and I want that steel to
stay clean and not rust.

i

On Mar 7, 3:45*am, Ignoramus26053 ignoramus26...@NOSPAM.
26053.invalid wrote:
I found another penetrating lubricant called PB-50 (by the same
company that makes PB Blaster). It is massively cheaper than LPS-2 and
is sold for $2.50 per can at Home Depot. The can is slightly smaller
than LPS-2, but the price difference more than makes up for it.

However, this PB-50 does not disperse widely, it shoots a jet of it.

So, there is no good alternative to LPS-2.

I agree with the opinion expressed here, that buying LPS-2 by the
gallon, and using spray bottles, is the best bet if I need to use a
lot of nondrying, easily sprayable, penetrating rust preventative.
This is what I will do. I have a large quantity of steel, tool steel
etc. I will sell some, but I will keep a lot and I want that steel to
stay clean and not rust.

i

Have you tried switching nozzles on the PB50 can?

I have used liquid floor polish to keep stuff from rusting. It is
inexpensive if you get it at moving sales.

Dan

On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 21:45:48 -0600, the infamous Ignoramus26053
scrawled the following:

I found another penetrating lubricant called PB-50 (by the same
company that makes PB Blaster). It is massively cheaper than LPS-2 and
is sold for $2.50 per can at Home Depot. The can is slightly smaller
than LPS-2, but the price difference more than makes up for it.

However, this PB-50 does not disperse widely, it shoots a jet of it.

So, there is no good alternative to LPS-2.

I agree with the opinion expressed here, that buying LPS-2 by the
gallon, and using spray bottles, is the best bet if I need to use a
lot of nondrying, easily sprayable, penetrating rust preventative.
This is what I will do. I have a large quantity of steel, tool steel
etc. I will sell some, but I will keep a lot and I want that steel to
stay clean and not rust.


The advertising boys in Tucker have been working late:

The can label says "LPS-2 Heavy-duty Lubricant"

The msds says: "Section 1 – Identification
Product Name: LPS 2®

Part Number: 00222, 02128, 00205, 00255, C00222, C02128, C00205,
C00255

Chemical Name: Petroleum Distillates

Product Use: An industrial lubricant designed to displace moisture
from mechanical and electrical equipment, provide light-duty
lubrication and short-term rust prevention. (What duty?)

Manufacturer Information: LPS Laboratories, 4647 Hugh Howell Rd.,
Tucker, GA, USA 30084"


I wonder which it is...

--
The blind are not good trailblazers.

-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

Ignoramus26053 wrote:
I found another penetrating lubricant called PB-50 ...

However, this PB-50 does not disperse widely, it shoots a jet of it.

So, there is no good alternative to LPS-2.
....

Geez - this thread has been about LPS-*2*, but I've been thinking
LPS-*3* (although LPS-3 has snuck in).

Anyhow, LPS-2 & PB-50 are primarily lubricants, that rust protect too,
according to their manufacturers.

LPS-3 is primarily a rust preventer. Blaster has a competitive product
(I think) called Corrosion Stop
http://www.pbblaster.com/Corrosion_Stop.html
Has anybody used this? Like PB-50, it is much cheaper than the LPS version.

Bob

Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mar 2, 6:17 pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Ignoramus11220" wrote in message

...

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.
The only minus of it is that it is expensive.
Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.
Thanks
You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to
find out.

In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for.

snip

They should fly banners behind airplanes announcing that fact. It would save
a lot of mistreated machinery.

I'd like to know what happened to WD-39...

Went to the same place as Preparation G

"Jerry Wass" wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mar 2, 6:17 pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Ignoramus11220" wrote in message

...

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.
The only minus of it is that it is expensive.
Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.
Thanks
You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy
to
find out.

In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for.

snip

They should fly banners behind airplanes announcing that fact. It would
save a lot of mistreated machinery.

I'd like to know what happened to WD-39...

Went to the same place as Preparation G

Very good! g There really was a WD-39, you know. And all the other
numbers. The one they finally produced was marketed under the same name they
used for it in the lab -- it was their 40th try to come up with a cheap
solution for displacing water.

--
Ed Huntress

On Mar 6, 9:02*pm, wrote:
...
There's one thing better than LPS 3, but it's not made anymore. *LPS
100 was a white grease that was supposedly good for a whole year under
sea water. *Used to use it on antenna rotator bearings, usually lasted
longer than the attached antennas.

Stan

This can of it is black, and very thick, the marks from scooping some
out maybe 20 years ago haven't slumped.

It's hard to apply unless thinned and doesn't soak through a rust film
so I don't use it much, except on bolt threads under the truck. Plus I
can't replace it.

It might be a slightly better lubricating grease than LPS-3, which
dries to a wax, but neither is good. Marine lower unit or trailer
wheel bearing grease let my home made roller wheel bearings spin
easier and seem to be enough protection.

IIRC it made the antenna rotator sluggish in very cold weather. I used
marine grease the second time. The antenna has lasted only because I
make new parts. I'm receiving HDTV on a dipole made of two 6" hex
standoffs jammed into plastic hose.

jsw

On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 18:02:54 -0800 (PST), the infamous
scrawled the following:

I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for. The stuff
is basically a light petroleum fraction with other crap dissolved that
will evaporate leaving the other crap coating the surface and it's NOT
a lubricant or rust-preventative. So if you try using it on a squeaky
hinge, the squeak comes back, sometimes worse. Performance on rusty
stuff is no better than using kerosene.

For hinges, pull the pins, wipe them off, run some coarse steel wool
over 'em, wipe 'em again, dip your finger in some moly wheel bearing
grease and put a thin coat on the full length and circumference of the
pin. Clean your finger off on the top of the female hinge opening, and
tap the pin in. That's good for about 30 squeak-free years in most
homes.

Well, STP changed their formula and so did WD-40. Both now contain
oil. WD has under 25%, but it's there now. WD hasn't even tried to
talk people out of the idea of using it as a lubricant because it
means that they'll have to buy _much_ more WD. I've amazed many a
mother when I took the squeak (and kept it out) from their kids'
bicycle and tricycle wheels. I'm truly glad that Big Wheels are no
longer an issue. DAMN, those things are LOUD! No way to lube plastic
tires on concrete or asphalt. sigh


LPS 1 is a far better
penetrant and the coating it leaves IS a lubricant. I use it on
padlock innards, usually good for several years in fully exposed
locks. Keeps the disc locks from bending or busting keys.

That has been more of a problem here in Oregon than it was for me in
California. I'll have to locate some LPS1.


There's one thing better than LPS 3, but it's not made anymore. LPS
100 was a white grease that was supposedly good for a whole year under
sea water. Used to use it on antenna rotator bearings, usually lasted
longer than the attached antennas.

What did you replace it with, spray lithium grease?

--
The blind are not good trailblazers.

-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 18:02:54 -0800 (PST), the infamous
scrawled the following:

I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for. The stuff
is basically a light petroleum fraction with other crap dissolved that
will evaporate leaving the other crap coating the surface and it's NOT
a lubricant or rust-preventative. So if you try using it on a squeaky
hinge, the squeak comes back, sometimes worse. Performance on rusty
stuff is no better than using kerosene.

For hinges, pull the pins, wipe them off, run some coarse steel wool
over 'em, wipe 'em again, dip your finger in some moly wheel bearing
grease and put a thin coat on the full length and circumference of the
pin. Clean your finger off on the top of the female hinge opening, and
tap the pin in. That's good for about 30 squeak-free years in most
homes.

What I've found to work very well on cheap steel door hinges is 90-weight hypoid
gear oil, which is the consistency of honey and so will creep into all the nooks
and crannies.

To apply, I close the door, and one-by-one drive the hingepin out, butter coat
it with the hypoid oil, and reinsert. After a day or so, the oil has found its
way into the places where metal interferes with metal, and the grinding and
squeaking sounds are gone.

The smell of the hypoid oil goes away after a few days. Put a paper towel in
the gap between door and jam under the hinges to catch any drips - the oil will
stain things.

Joe Gwinn

On Sun, 07 Mar 2010 12:33:42 -0500, the infamous Joseph Gwinn
scrawled the following:

In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 18:02:54 -0800 (PST), the infamous
scrawled the following:

I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for. The stuff
is basically a light petroleum fraction with other crap dissolved that
will evaporate leaving the other crap coating the surface and it's NOT
a lubricant or rust-preventative. So if you try using it on a squeaky
hinge, the squeak comes back, sometimes worse. Performance on rusty
stuff is no better than using kerosene.

For hinges, pull the pins, wipe them off, run some coarse steel wool
over 'em, wipe 'em again, dip your finger in some moly wheel bearing
grease and put a thin coat on the full length and circumference of the
pin. Clean your finger off on the top of the female hinge opening, and
tap the pin in. That's good for about 30 squeak-free years in most
homes.

What I've found to work very well on cheap steel door hinges is 90-weight hypoid
gear oil, which is the consistency of honey and so will creep into all the nooks
and crannies.

Oh my Crom! That stuff stinks worse than any crap I've ever shat out.
How could you stand that? I absolutely hate the smell of that stuff.


To apply, I close the door, and one-by-one drive the hingepin out, butter coat
it with the hypoid oil, and reinsert. After a day or so, the oil has found its
way into the places where metal interferes with metal, and the grinding and
squeaking sounds are gone.

The smell of the hypoid oil goes away after a few days. Put a paper towel in
the gap between door and jam under the hinges to catch any drips - the oil will
stain things.

No it doesn't. I had a single drop of it in my kitchen and it stunk
for months, until I'd PineSol the **** out of it. It's horrible.

I still prefer my moly grease, which doesn't go anywhere and doesn't
have much of a scent at all, even right out of the can.

--
The blind are not good trailblazers.

-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

On Mar 2, 6:17*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Ignoramus11220" wrote in message

...

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to
find out.

Great test. It helps rule out lots of products quickly and shows
which ones work under the nastiest conditions. That's salt and water
in your liquid cups, right?

I'd like to see how the expensive metal polishes (Everbrite and
Sharkskin), fare in this kind of test, too.


In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

Is it still available?


I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

The rust probably combined with one of the additives, perhaps?

--
The blind are not good trailblazers.

-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy
to
find out.

Great test. It helps rule out lots of products quickly and shows
which ones work under the nastiest conditions. That's salt and water
in your liquid cups, right?

And hydrochloric acid :-) That kind of shortens the duration of the trial...

I'd like to see how the expensive metal polishes (Everbrite and
Sharkskin), fare in this kind of test, too.


In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

Is it still available?

http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/co...n_pg/lps3.html

I have a 10 year old can on the shelf. I only use it if I find a nice piece
of steel which I intend to use in a distant future and don't want it to rust
meanwhile. Otherwise it is a pain as it is so sticky.


I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

The rust probably combined with one of the additives, perhaps?

That is what I thought. I wondered what the additive was though. The colour
of the rust notwithstanding, the protection WD40 offered was better than
some others. BTW at the end of the test there was a greasy layer on all the
spray compounds: G96, T9, WD40 and LPS3.

There is a tendency for shop workers, particularly woodworkers to recommend
paste wax as a rust protectant for unpainted surfaces of machine tools. In
this test it was shown to be no better than control. This is consistent with
other literatu Flexner, who wrote book on wood finishing, maintains that
wax does not pose any significant barrier to water or water vapour when
applied to wood. There is no reason why it should behave differently on
metal.

BTW WD40 is the recommended cleaning and oiling agent for VZ firearms :

http://www.czub.cz/navody/CZ_858_Tactical.pdf

(page 15)

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Mar 7, 7:56*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
...
BTW WD40 is the recommended cleaning and oiling agent for VZ firearms :
http://www.czub.cz/navody/CZ_858_Tactical.pdf
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I've heard that the Soviets used drain cleaner on the AK-47.

jsw

On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 18:02:54 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Mar 2, 6:17*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Ignoramus11220" wrote in message

...

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.

The only minus of it is that it is expensive.

Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.

Thanks

You might be interested in a trial I did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to
find out.

In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.

I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for. The stuff
is basically a light petroleum fraction with other crap dissolved that
will evaporate leaving the other crap coating the surface and it's NOT
a lubricant or rust-preventative. So if you try using it on a squeaky
hinge, the squeak comes back, sometimes worse. Performance on rusty
stuff is no better than using kerosene. LPS 1 is a far better
penetrant and the coating it leaves IS a lubricant. I use it on
padlock innards, usually good for several years in fully exposed
locks. Keeps the disc locks from bending or busting keys.

There's one thing better than LPS 3, but it's not made anymore. LPS
100 was a white grease that was supposedly good for a whole year under
sea water. Used to use it on antenna rotator bearings, usually lasted
longer than the attached antennas.

Stan

Give that man a ceegar! WD40's most impressive feature is it's
marketing dept.

Newb