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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Engraving
Ok, some things are a whole lot more complicated than you would think.
Engraving for example. The irregularities in thickness of material can be a real pain some times. I found a guy to make me a spring loaded engraver, and that helped. The tip he used would bend at the slightest hard lip of even a .002. Otherwise it worked fine. Hills and valleys it dragged over just fine. I even used it to engrave some sockets to see how much incline it would climb. (I could make my own now that I have the lathe.) I wanted a stronger harder engraving tip. I ordered some tungsten carbide ones and some diamond ones. The diamond ones worked great even on chrome and stainless. On aluminum of brass they gummed up. The tungsten ones worked ok, but were just not sharp enough. I wanted a better line with less pressure to reduce gouging. Of course I was dealing with finding a good way to clamp down some small brass plates at the same time. The brass plates came with adhesive tape on the back so just clamping down the edges didn't work because it would warp pretty badly around the tape. Fine if it were steel, but for brass that was just too much. The engraver would gouge too deep. Somewhere along this process I picked up a cheap mill vise hoping it would help, but the bolt slots were stupidly large and it was too wide even if I got longer bolts for my t-nuts and used washers. Finally today it all came together. I drilled and counter sunk the flats on the vise, grooved the jaws, and found a way to sharpen tungsten carbide drag engraving tips on the cheap. I got a very sharp and well centered point too. I never realized before how hard it is to drill cast iron by the way. I drilled the bolt holes and then milled flat bottom counter sinks for the heads on the vise. Engraving tip sharpening setup. http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/d...hp?image_id=67 I know, I know. I need to keep all that dross blown off the lathe. Actual Engraving Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiVmrCznntE Note the scale milled on the top of the vise? That really increased my comfort level in zeroing the cutting head of the mill, and also in placing each piece for engraving. P.S. Previously for another application I had found where a dull rounded drag engraving tip solved a totally different problem. |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Engraving
Bob La Londe wrote: Ok, some things are a whole lot more complicated than you would think. Engraving for example. The irregularities in thickness of material can be a real pain some times. I found a guy to make me a spring loaded engraver, and that helped. The tip he used would bend at the slightest hard lip of even a .002. Otherwise it worked fine. Hills and valleys it dragged over just fine. I even used it to engrave some sockets to see how much incline it would climb. (I could make my own now that I have the lathe.) I wanted a stronger harder engraving tip. I ordered some tungsten carbide ones and some diamond ones. The diamond ones worked great even on chrome and stainless. On aluminum of brass they gummed up. The tungsten ones worked ok, but were just not sharp enough. I wanted a better line with less pressure to reduce gouging. Of course I was dealing with finding a good way to clamp down some small brass plates at the same time. The brass plates came with adhesive tape on the back so just clamping down the edges didn't work because it would warp pretty badly around the tape. Fine if it were steel, but for brass that was just too much. The engraver would gouge too deep. Somewhere along this process I picked up a cheap mill vise hoping it would help, but the bolt slots were stupidly large and it was too wide even if I got longer bolts for my t-nuts and used washers. Finally today it all came together. I drilled and counter sunk the flats on the vise, grooved the jaws, and found a way to sharpen tungsten carbide drag engraving tips on the cheap. I got a very sharp and well centered point too. I never realized before how hard it is to drill cast iron by the way. I drilled the bolt holes and then milled flat bottom counter sinks for the heads on the vise. Engraving tip sharpening setup. http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/d...hp?image_id=67 I know, I know. I need to keep all that dross blown off the lathe. Actual Engraving Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiVmrCznntE Note the scale milled on the top of the vise? That really increased my comfort level in zeroing the cutting head of the mill, and also in placing each piece for engraving. P.S. Previously for another application I had found where a dull rounded drag engraving tip solved a totally different problem. When I did some engraving on anodized AL, I used a carbide bit and coolant. The coolant isn't really so much for heat, but the lubrication and flushing it provides helps a lot. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Engraving
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Of course I was dealing with finding a good way to clamp down some small brass plates at the same time. The brass plates came with adhesive tape on the back so just clamping down the edges didn't work because it would warp pretty badly around the tape. Fine if it were steel, but for brass that was just too much. The engraver would gouge too deep. You might consider a vacuum setup for engraving. When I worked in plastics we would use vacuum to hold plastic sheets when using a router to bring them to size. They never moved a bit even while taking an aggressive bite with the router. If for example you would get a 1/2" thick plate and drill 1/4 holes every half an inch edgewise, then you plug the edge holes (except for the last one where you hook up the vacuum line), and then drill .030 dia. holes in the face of the plate, that should hold down any flat stock for engraving with no problem. Another way might be to use hot glue to fasten the plates to a thicker piece of stock. To remove, use a heat gun. You might need to rig some sort of clamping fixture to assure that the face of the plate is parallel with the anchor plate. Sounds like you are having fun. Good luck, -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Engraving
"Pete C." wrote in message
ter.com... Bob La Londe wrote: Ok, some things are a whole lot more complicated than you would think. Engraving for example. The irregularities in thickness of material can be a real pain some times. I found a guy to make me a spring loaded engraver, and that helped. The tip he used would bend at the slightest hard lip of even a .002. Otherwise it worked fine. Hills and valleys it dragged over just fine. I even used it to engrave some sockets to see how much incline it would climb. (I could make my own now that I have the lathe.) I wanted a stronger harder engraving tip. I ordered some tungsten carbide ones and some diamond ones. The diamond ones worked great even on chrome and stainless. On aluminum of brass they gummed up. The tungsten ones worked ok, but were just not sharp enough. I wanted a better line with less pressure to reduce gouging. Of course I was dealing with finding a good way to clamp down some small brass plates at the same time. The brass plates came with adhesive tape on the back so just clamping down the edges didn't work because it would warp pretty badly around the tape. Fine if it were steel, but for brass that was just too much. The engraver would gouge too deep. Somewhere along this process I picked up a cheap mill vise hoping it would help, but the bolt slots were stupidly large and it was too wide even if I got longer bolts for my t-nuts and used washers. Finally today it all came together. I drilled and counter sunk the flats on the vise, grooved the jaws, and found a way to sharpen tungsten carbide drag engraving tips on the cheap. I got a very sharp and well centered point too. I never realized before how hard it is to drill cast iron by the way. I drilled the bolt holes and then milled flat bottom counter sinks for the heads on the vise. Engraving tip sharpening setup. http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/d...hp?image_id=67 I know, I know. I need to keep all that dross blown off the lathe. Actual Engraving Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiVmrCznntE Note the scale milled on the top of the vise? That really increased my comfort level in zeroing the cutting head of the mill, and also in placing each piece for engraving. P.S. Previously for another application I had found where a dull rounded drag engraving tip solved a totally different problem. When I did some engraving on anodized AL, I used a carbide bit and coolant. The coolant isn't really so much for heat, but the lubrication and flushing it provides helps a lot. For drag engraving I have not needed much of anything. When I used a spinning mill bit to engrave aluminum I found a constant stream of air seemed to help a lot. |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Engraving
"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message
... "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Of course I was dealing with finding a good way to clamp down some small brass plates at the same time. The brass plates came with adhesive tape on the back so just clamping down the edges didn't work because it would warp pretty badly around the tape. Fine if it were steel, but for brass that was just too much. The engraver would gouge too deep. You might consider a vacuum setup for engraving. When I worked in plastics we would use vacuum to hold plastic sheets when using a router to bring them to size. They never moved a bit even while taking an aggressive bite with the router. I have played with a vacuum plate and it worked ok, but I really need to break down and buy real vacuum pump to play with it more. If for example you would get a 1/2" thick plate and drill 1/4 holes every half an inch edgewise, then you plug the edge holes (except for the last one where you hook up the vacuum line), and then drill .030 dia. holes in the face of the plate, that should hold down any flat stock for engraving with no problem. Another way might be to use hot glue to fasten the plates to a thicker piece of stock. To remove, use a heat gun. You might need to rig some sort of clamping fixture to assure that the face of the plate is parallel with the anchor plate. I did some commemorative coins earlier this year using epoxy and then popped them off by heating them with a torch. These brass plates already ahd adhesive tape on the back which made some methods impractical. Sounds like you are having fun. Good luck, -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Engraving
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Ok, some things are a whole lot more complicated than you would think. Engraving for example. The irregularities in thickness of material can be a real pain some times. I found a guy to make me a spring loaded engraver, and that helped. The tip he used would bend at the slightest hard lip of even a .002. Otherwise it worked fine. Hills and valleys it dragged over just fine. I even used it to engrave some sockets to see how much incline it would climb. (I could make my own now that I have the lathe.) I wanted a stronger harder engraving tip. I ordered some tungsten carbide ones and some diamond ones. The diamond ones worked great even on chrome and stainless. On aluminum of brass they gummed up. The tungsten ones worked ok, but were just not sharp enough. I wanted a better line with less pressure to reduce gouging. Of course I was dealing with finding a good way to clamp down some small brass plates at the same time. The brass plates came with adhesive tape on the back so just clamping down the edges didn't work because it would warp pretty badly around the tape. Fine if it were steel, but for brass that was just too much. The engraver would gouge too deep. Somewhere along this process I picked up a cheap mill vise hoping it would help, but the bolt slots were stupidly large and it was too wide even if I got longer bolts for my t-nuts and used washers. Finally today it all came together. I drilled and counter sunk the flats on the vise, grooved the jaws, and found a way to sharpen tungsten carbide drag engraving tips on the cheap. I got a very sharp and well centered point too. I never realized before how hard it is to drill cast iron by the way. I drilled the bolt holes and then milled flat bottom counter sinks for the heads on the vise. Engraving tip sharpening setup. http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/d...hp?image_id=67 I know, I know. I need to keep all that dross blown off the lathe. Actual Engraving Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiVmrCznntE Note the scale milled on the top of the vise? That really increased my comfort level in zeroing the cutting head of the mill, and also in placing each piece for engraving. P.S. Previously for another application I had found where a dull rounded drag engraving tip solved a totally different problem. Next time at your dentist, ask him for his old burrs. They use all shapes, diamond, carbide, HSS. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Engraving
You've got a very interesting engraving setup, Bob. I recall seeing previous
posts about geting the mini-mill set up, but I don't remember seeing any details regarding the actual CNC'd model you're using. Did you buy the mill with the CNC conversion, or rerofit the CNC? Some pictures of the entire CNC setup would be appreciated, if you've got the time. It's not a good practice to use compresed air to blow away swarf and chips from machines. The force of the air pressure forces small chips into places where they will result in problems and/or excessive wear. A couple of brushes and a clean shop rag are much better for cleanup, followed by some fresh oil on the precision parts. Some aluminum foil or other throw-away covering temporarily placed over the precision parts of a lathe are good ways to prevent abrasive debris from getting on them. -- WB .......... metalworking projects www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Ok, some things are a whole lot more complicated than you would think. Engraving for example. The irregularities in thickness of material can be a real pain some times. I found a guy to make me a spring loaded engraver, and that helped. The tip he used would bend at the slightest hard lip of even a .002. Otherwise it worked fine. Hills and valleys it dragged over just fine. I even used it to engrave some sockets to see how much incline it would climb. (I could make my own now that I have the lathe.) I wanted a stronger harder engraving tip. I ordered some tungsten carbide ones and some diamond ones. The diamond ones worked great even on chrome and stainless. On aluminum of brass they gummed up. The tungsten ones worked ok, but were just not sharp enough. I wanted a better line with less pressure to reduce gouging. Of course I was dealing with finding a good way to clamp down some small brass plates at the same time. The brass plates came with adhesive tape on the back so just clamping down the edges didn't work because it would warp pretty badly around the tape. Fine if it were steel, but for brass that was just too much. The engraver would gouge too deep. Somewhere along this process I picked up a cheap mill vise hoping it would help, but the bolt slots were stupidly large and it was too wide even if I got longer bolts for my t-nuts and used washers. Finally today it all came together. I drilled and counter sunk the flats on the vise, grooved the jaws, and found a way to sharpen tungsten carbide drag engraving tips on the cheap. I got a very sharp and well centered point too. I never realized before how hard it is to drill cast iron by the way. I drilled the bolt holes and then milled flat bottom counter sinks for the heads on the vise. Engraving tip sharpening setup. http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/d...hp?image_id=67 I know, I know. I need to keep all that dross blown off the lathe. Actual Engraving Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiVmrCznntE Note the scale milled on the top of the vise? That really increased my comfort level in zeroing the cutting head of the mill, and also in placing each piece for engraving. P.S. Previously for another application I had found where a dull rounded drag engraving tip solved a totally different problem. |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Engraving
"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
... You've got a very interesting engraving setup, Bob. I recall seeing previous posts about geting the mini-mill set up, but I don't remember seeing any details regarding the actual CNC'd model you're using. Did you buy the mill with the CNC conversion, or rerofit the CNC? I bought it complete, but some fab was required to assemble. It was harder to get the software setup right initially than to setup the mill. It's a Taig 2019 with a Deep Groove controller. One of the things I want to do is make a router machine for larger "rough" projects. Now that I have setup one machine I can see some of the advantages and disadvantages of a mill vs a router machine. For most of what I do a router machine would have worked better, and a non cnc mill for milling and one off fabrication. The cnc actually gets in the way and slows me down sometimes. I also want to upgrade the steppers on this rig and switch to a Gecko controller. Sadly there is only so much time in a life. LOL. Some pictures of the entire CNC setup would be appreciated, if you've got the time. I think I posted one once with a holder I had made for my dial indicator to check the table. I can post another. It's not a good practice to use compresed air to blow away swarf and chips from machines. The force of the air pressure forces small chips into places where they will result in problems and/or excessive wear. A couple of brushes and a clean shop rag are much better for cleanup, followed by some fresh oil on the precision parts. Some aluminum foil or other throw-away covering temporarily placed over the precision parts of a lathe are good ways to prevent abrasive debris from getting on them. -- WB ......... metalworking projects www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Ok, some things are a whole lot more complicated than you would think. Engraving for example. The irregularities in thickness of material can be a real pain some times. I found a guy to make me a spring loaded engraver, and that helped. The tip he used would bend at the slightest hard lip of even a .002. Otherwise it worked fine. Hills and valleys it dragged over just fine. I even used it to engrave some sockets to see how much incline it would climb. (I could make my own now that I have the lathe.) I wanted a stronger harder engraving tip. I ordered some tungsten carbide ones and some diamond ones. The diamond ones worked great even on chrome and stainless. On aluminum of brass they gummed up. The tungsten ones worked ok, but were just not sharp enough. I wanted a better line with less pressure to reduce gouging. Of course I was dealing with finding a good way to clamp down some small brass plates at the same time. The brass plates came with adhesive tape on the back so just clamping down the edges didn't work because it would warp pretty badly around the tape. Fine if it were steel, but for brass that was just too much. The engraver would gouge too deep. Somewhere along this process I picked up a cheap mill vise hoping it would help, but the bolt slots were stupidly large and it was too wide even if I got longer bolts for my t-nuts and used washers. Finally today it all came together. I drilled and counter sunk the flats on the vise, grooved the jaws, and found a way to sharpen tungsten carbide drag engraving tips on the cheap. I got a very sharp and well centered point too. I never realized before how hard it is to drill cast iron by the way. I drilled the bolt holes and then milled flat bottom counter sinks for the heads on the vise. Engraving tip sharpening setup. http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/d...hp?image_id=67 I know, I know. I need to keep all that dross blown off the lathe. Actual Engraving Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiVmrCznntE Note the scale milled on the top of the vise? That really increased my comfort level in zeroing the cutting head of the mill, and also in placing each piece for engraving. P.S. Previously for another application I had found where a dull rounded drag engraving tip solved a totally different problem. |
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