I am needing advice and you guys are some of the smartest on the web.
As you know I have a 30x30 building with 10 foot ceilings. The trusses
are 4 feet apart so I am not sure I can put a drywall ceiling. I plan
on drywalling the walls.

My thoughts are this, either a suspended ceiling with the 2x4 tile or
I thought of using the soffit material like that is used on the roof
of my porch. (The kind without vent holes). When I figured up the cost
for both they were very similar. (Not cheap).

We have suspended ceilings at work and when new they look good but
whenever there is a roof leak or something they get ugly looking
stains on the tiles and the tiles are not cheap. Also, I am a little
worried about the humidity messing with those tiles over time. Also,
when I read the literature, it said to plan on 20 hours of labor to do
a suspended ceiling for a 9x14 room! Since I have to work myself, I
cant image how long it would take to do a 30x30.

So, I have gone back and forth on the issue. Do you guys see any
problem with soffit material? My thought is to use 1x4’s nailed on the
bottom of the trusses about every 2-4 feet to help minimize sagging.
Will the soffit still sag? Will it be possible to keep the rows of
soffit straight and how do I go about doing that. (With a chalk line?)

Above whatever type ceiling I use will be clear plastic vapor barrier
with unfaced r-30 fiberglass insulation.

One caveat is I can see sometime in the future needing to get in the
ceiling to run wire or whatever. Hopefully someday to run a central
heat/air unit but that may be a long time from now.

Also, on another note, we have had torrential rains last night. I had
drops of water on the center of the floor. I crawled in the ceiling
and the best I can tell is it is blowing in from the top “ridge cap”
that is on the center of the roof. I assume this is used for
ventilalation?

Anyhow I really appreciate your help!

stryped wrote:
I am needing advice and you guys are some of the smartest on the web.
As you know I have a 30x30 building with 10 foot ceilings. The trusses
are 4 feet apart so I am not sure I can put a drywall ceiling. I plan
on drywalling the walls.

My thoughts are this, either a suspended ceiling with the 2x4 tile or
I thought of using the soffit material like that is used on the roof
of my porch. (The kind without vent holes). When I figured up the cost
for both they were very similar. (Not cheap).

We have suspended ceilings at work and when new they look good but
whenever there is a roof leak or something they get ugly looking
stains on the tiles and the tiles are not cheap. Also, I am a little
worried about the humidity messing with those tiles over time. Also,
when I read the literature, it said to plan on 20 hours of labor to do
a suspended ceiling for a 9x14 room! Since I have to work myself, I
cant image how long it would take to do a 30x30.

So, I have gone back and forth on the issue. Do you guys see any
problem with soffit material? My thought is to use 1x4’s nailed on the
bottom of the trusses about every 2-4 feet to help minimize sagging.
Will the soffit still sag? Will it be possible to keep the rows of
soffit straight and how do I go about doing that. (With a chalk line?)

Above whatever type ceiling I use will be clear plastic vapor barrier
with unfaced r-30 fiberglass insulation.

One caveat is I can see sometime in the future needing to get in the
ceiling to run wire or whatever. Hopefully someday to run a central
heat/air unit but that may be a long time from now.

Also, on another note, we have had torrential rains last night. I had
drops of water on the center of the floor. I crawled in the ceiling
and the best I can tell is it is blowing in from the top “ridge cap”
that is on the center of the roof. I assume this is used for
ventilalation?

Anyhow I really appreciate your help!

If it was my workshop, id go for 2in thick 8ft by 4ft rigid insulation
foam, ali foil covered both sides. This iswaterproof, wont sag on a 2ft
fixing, and is light and strong
batten as you say with 4 by 1 across the trusses every 2 ft over the
whole area of the ceiling , start one side and work from a platform.
3in screws with large penny wasers say 2in dia. spacedevery 18in.
this will insulate, not sag and last for years.
Cuts easily with an hand saw.
You will need a lazy man , a piece of 2by 2 with a 6in sq piece of ply
nailed on one end just a bit longer than the distance from the floor of
the platform and the underside of the sheet when wedged in place.
Gaffer tape over the joins tp make airtight.
Here in the UK I paid £11.00 a sheet buying 10 sheet at a time. for
seconds.

Let us know what you wouldpay for the same where you are.
Hope this helps
ted
Dorset Uk.

"Ted Frater" wrote in message
...
stryped wrote:
I am needing advice and you guys are some of the smartest on the web.
As you know I have a 30x30 building with 10 foot ceilings. The trusses
are 4 feet apart so I am not sure I can put a drywall ceiling. I plan
on drywalling the walls.

My thoughts are this, either a suspended ceiling with the 2x4 tile or
I thought of using the soffit material like that is used on the roof
of my porch. (The kind without vent holes). When I figured up the cost
for both they were very similar. (Not cheap).

We have suspended ceilings at work and when new they look good but
whenever there is a roof leak or something they get ugly looking
stains on the tiles and the tiles are not cheap. Also, I am a little
worried about the humidity messing with those tiles over time. Also,
when I read the literature, it said to plan on 20 hours of labor to do
a suspended ceiling for a 9x14 room! Since I have to work myself, I
cant image how long it would take to do a 30x30.

So, I have gone back and forth on the issue. Do you guys see any
problem with soffit material? My thought is to use 1x4’s nailed on the
bottom of the trusses about every 2-4 feet to help minimize sagging.
Will the soffit still sag? Will it be possible to keep the rows of
soffit straight and how do I go about doing that. (With a chalk line?)

Above whatever type ceiling I use will be clear plastic vapor barrier
with unfaced r-30 fiberglass insulation.

One caveat is I can see sometime in the future needing to get in the
ceiling to run wire or whatever. Hopefully someday to run a central
heat/air unit but that may be a long time from now.

Also, on another note, we have had torrential rains last night. I had
drops of water on the center of the floor. I crawled in the ceiling
and the best I can tell is it is blowing in from the top “ridge cap”
that is on the center of the roof. I assume this is used for
ventilalation?

Anyhow I really appreciate your help!

If it was my workshop, id go for 2in thick 8ft by 4ft rigid insulation
foam, ali foil covered both sides. This iswaterproof, wont sag on a 2ft
fixing, and is light and strong
batten as you say with 4 by 1 across the trusses every 2 ft over the
whole area of the ceiling , start one side and work from a platform.
3in screws with large penny wasers say 2in dia. spacedevery 18in.
this will insulate, not sag and last for years.
Cuts easily with an hand saw.
You will need a lazy man ,

Stryped, do you live anywhere near Gunner?

On Dec 9, 4:10*pm, "ATP*" wrote:
"Ted Frater" wrote in message

...





stryped wrote:
I am needing advice and you guys are some of the smartest on the web.
As you know I have a 30x30 building with 10 foot ceilings. The trusses
are 4 feet apart so I am not sure I can put a drywall ceiling. I plan
on drywalling the walls.

My thoughts are this, either a suspended ceiling with the 2x4 tile or
I thought of using the soffit material like that is used on the roof
of my porch. (The kind without vent holes). When I figured up the cost
for both they were very similar. (Not cheap).

We have suspended ceilings at work and when new they look good but
whenever there is a roof leak or something they get ugly looking
stains on the tiles and the tiles are not cheap. Also, I am a little
worried about the humidity messing with those tiles over time. Also,
when I read the literature, it said to plan on 20 hours of labor to do
a suspended ceiling for a 9x14 room! Since I have to work myself, I
cant image how long it would take to do a 30x30.

So, I have gone back and forth on the issue. Do you guys see any
problem with soffit material? My thought is to use 1x4’s nailed on the
bottom of the trusses about every 2-4 feet to help minimize sagging.
Will the soffit still sag? Will it be possible to keep the rows of
soffit straight and how do I go about doing that. (With a chalk line?)

Above whatever type ceiling I use will be clear plastic vapor barrier
with unfaced r-30 fiberglass insulation.

One caveat is I can see sometime in the future needing to get in the
ceiling to run wire or whatever. Hopefully someday to run a central
heat/air unit but that may be a long time from now.

Also, on another note, we have had torrential rains last night. I had
drops of water on the center of the floor. I crawled in the ceiling
and the best I can tell is it is blowing in from the top “ridge cap”
that is on the center of the roof. I assume this is used for
ventilalation?

Anyhow I really appreciate your help!

If it was my workshop, id go for 2in thick 8ft by 4ft rigid insulation
foam, ali foil covered both sides. This iswaterproof, wont sag on *a 2ft
fixing, and is light and strong
batten as you say with 4 by 1 across the trusses every 2 ft over the
whole area of the ceiling *, start one side and work from a platform.
3in screws with large penny wasers say 2in dia. spacedevery 18in.
*this will insulate, not sag and last for years.
*Cuts easily with an hand saw.
You will need a lazy man ,

Stryped, do you live anywhere near Gunner?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I dont know, why?

stryped wrote:

I am needing advice and you guys are some of the smartest on the web.
As you know I have a 30x30 building with 10 foot ceilings. The trusses
are 4 feet apart so I am not sure I can put a drywall ceiling. I plan
on drywalling the walls.
So run studs between the trusses.


My thoughts are this, either a suspended ceiling with the 2x4 tile or
I thought of using the soffit material like that is used on the roof
of my porch. (The kind without vent holes). When I figured up the cost
for both they were very similar. (Not cheap).



So, I have gone back and forth on the issue. Do you guys see any
problem with soffit material?
It will have the same sag problems as drywall

My thought is to use 1x4’s nailed on the
bottom of the trusses about every 2-4 feet to help minimize sagging.
Will the soffit still sag?
Yes, no matter what you do it will still sag. ALL ceilings do.(laws of
physics) It is a matter of how much. Use 2x4 every 2' between the
trusses (edge on to your ceiling) to minimize it.

Will it be possible to keep the rows of
soffit straight and how do I go about doing that. (With a chalk line?)

Above whatever type ceiling I use will be clear plastic vapor barrier
with unfaced r-30 fiberglass insulation.
And what will support that??? Your suspended ceiling WONT, and even
if it does for a short time, you wouldn't be able to "POP" a tile up.


One caveat is I can see sometime in the future needing to get in the
ceiling to run wire or whatever. Hopefully someday to run a central
heat/air unit but that may be a long time from now.

Run 2X6 (or what ever the thickness of your bottom truss member)
rather than 2X4 (or use engineered lumber) and build access hatches in
(3x3) and Put a plywood strip from end to end in your "aisles". For
that size shop put an access in near two opposite corners, and 1 in
the middle.

I had a similar problem with my present office, with the addition of
the bottoms of my 2X6s that formed the (pre)existing ceiling line not
being in plane. So I had to shim everything even. Then I installed
downlights where I thought I needed them, and then I just sheet rocked
it, and then textured it.

I also installed one of those drop down folding stair "attic ladders"
for access.


USE a drywall lift no matter WHAT material you use, and it is a
relatively easy 1 man job, if the height isn't too bad.






Also, on another note, we have had torrential rains last night. I had
drops of water on the center of the floor. I crawled in the ceiling
and the best I can tell is it is blowing in from the top “ridge cap”
that is on the center of the roof. I assume this is used for
ventilalation?

Anyhow I really appreciate your help!

jk