On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 19:17:45 -0600, "Snag" wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Started playing with my Dillon 550 reloader after the ball game
today...
The second brass casing I pushed in to the sizing die went in real
hard. On the down stroke it stripped out of the shell plate and its
jammed in there good.

Of course, trying to get it out, I've made the situation far worse. I
finally released a bunch of expletives and called it a day.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to make a bunch of "U" shape bushings so I can
screw the primer push pin and bullet swage out. Then I'm thinking
make a threaded bushing to hold a grease zirk and use a grease gun to
jack the brass out of the die. Good Plan?

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?

Karl

Did you use case lube ? The last time I stuck a case , I drilled and
threaded the base for a stud , used a nut and sleeve to pull it out . That
case sits on the ladge over the bench as a reminder to lube cases ...
BTW , if that case is stuck full-depth in the die , you're NOT going to
pull the neck expander button out . Best to unscrew it from the decapper rod
and cut the case open after extraction .


Sigh..ayup.

Karl..did you buy Carbide sizing dies or standard ones? Carbide you can
resize without lube..standard dies..you HAVE to use lubricant.

Follow the above directions.

Next time..mix up a can of STP with just about anything oil based..10
weight or 5 weight thin oil...I usually use a quart of DTE light and a
small can of STP. Lasts ****ing forever.

You sprinkle a few drops on a pad of closed cell foam, felt,
anything..rub it in and roll the cartridges across it under the palm of
your hand and then size em. You need just a bare amount..but in standard
dies..you DO need lube.

I figured that when you got the Dillion..you got Carbide dies, so didnt
say anything.

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 22:03:25 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Started playing with my Dillon 550 reloader after the ball game today...

The second brass casing I pushed in to the sizing die went in real hard. On
the down stroke it stripped out of the shell plate and its jammed in there
good.

Of course, trying to get it out, I've made the situation far worse. I
finally released a bunch of expletives and called it a day.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to make a bunch of "U" shape bushings so I can screw
the primer push pin and bullet swage out. Then I'm thinking make a threaded
bushing to hold a grease zirk and use a grease gun to jack the brass out of
the die. Good Plan?

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?

Karl



OOPS,
Sounds like you either didn't lube the case OR there is a chunk of crud
binding the two.


There are a couple ways of getting them out. If your REALLY lucky you
can remove the de-capping pin and go in with a brass drift and drive the
case out.

OR you can do it the hard way, use a Dremel tool and cut the base off of
the case GENTLY, then go inside the case and score it deep enough that
you can fold one section in.

Bet you don't forget case lube again. Oh you may want to look at a
carbide die if available in the caliber your loading. They don't stick
as bad if you forget the lube.


Typically..you pull the die, pull the pin (if possible). and make up a
1/4-20 bolt and a "cup". Drill out the primer, thread it, stick on the
cup and then thread in the bolt. And then carefuly..screw in the
bolt..it bottoms out on the cup and pulls the case out.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m.../ai_112128002/

They are easy to make. Shrug..I think Ive stuck 4-5 cases in my 40 yrs
handloading....so it doesnt happen often..but..shrug..it does happen.

When you get the case out..carefuly store the remover you just made. You
might need it again in 10 yrs. G


Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Started playing with my Dillon 550 reloader after the ball game today...

The second brass casing I pushed in to the sizing die went in real hard. On
the down stroke it stripped out of the shell plate and its jammed in there
good.

Of course, trying to get it out, I've made the situation far worse. I
finally released a bunch of expletives and called it a day.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to make a bunch of "U" shape bushings so I can screw
the primer push pin and bullet swage out. Then I'm thinking make a threaded
bushing to hold a grease zirk and use a grease gun to jack the brass out of
the die. Good Plan?

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
Started playing with my Dillon 550 reloader after the ball game
today...
The second brass casing I pushed in to the sizing die went in real
hard. On the down stroke it stripped out of the shell plate and its
jammed in there good.

Of course, trying to get it out, I've made the situation far worse. I
finally released a bunch of expletives and called it a day.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to make a bunch of "U" shape bushings so I can
screw the primer push pin and bullet swage out. Then I'm thinking
make a threaded bushing to hold a grease zirk and use a grease gun to
jack the brass out of the die. Good Plan?

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?

Karl

Did you use case lube ? The last time I stuck a case , I drilled and
threaded the base for a stud , used a nut and sleeve to pull it out . That
case sits on the ladge over the bench as a reminder to lube cases ...
BTW , if that case is stuck full-depth in the die , you're NOT going to
pull the neck expander button out . Best to unscrew it from the decapper rod
and cut the case open after extraction .
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF

"Karl Townsend" wrote:

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?


Lube the cases.

Wes



--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Did you use case lube ? The last time I stuck a case , I drilled and
threaded the base for a stud , used a nut and sleeve to pull it out . That
case sits on the ladge over the bench as a reminder to lube cases ...
BTW , if that case is stuck full-depth in the die , you're NOT going to
pull the neck expander button out . Best to unscrew it from the decapper
rod and cut the case open after extraction .

I "think" I used lube. Being an FNG here, I was still figuring how to set up
the die and maybe grabbed an unlubed brass.

I'm not with you on how to unscrew the decapper rod. I've not seen this die
apart so I'm at a disadvantage here. On the top of the die, I've got a bolt,
clip and jam nut. I removed the clip and unthreaded the bolt. It won't come
apart further. I'm thinking of using that nut and bushings to pull the bolt
out. The bolt must somehow hold the primer push pin and neck expander.

If I can somehow remove the primer push pin, i can see threading the brass
for a pull bolt would work. Right now, the push pin is in the brass primer
hole.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
Started playing with my Dillon 550 reloader after the ball game today...

The second brass casing I pushed in to the sizing die went in real hard. On
the down stroke it stripped out of the shell plate and its jammed in there
good.

Of course, trying to get it out, I've made the situation far worse. I
finally released a bunch of expletives and called it a day.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to make a bunch of "U" shape bushings so I can screw
the primer push pin and bullet swage out. Then I'm thinking make a threaded
bushing to hold a grease zirk and use a grease gun to jack the brass out of
the die. Good Plan?

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?

Karl



OOPS,
Sounds like you either didn't lube the case OR there is a chunk of crud
binding the two.


There are a couple ways of getting them out. If your REALLY lucky you
can remove the de-capping pin and go in with a brass drift and drive the
case out.

OR you can do it the hard way, use a Dremel tool and cut the base off of
the case GENTLY, then go inside the case and score it deep enough that
you can fold one section in.

Bet you don't forget case lube again. Oh you may want to look at a
carbide die if available in the caliber your loading. They don't stick
as bad if you forget the lube.

--
Steve W.

Karl Townsend wrote:
Started playing with my Dillon 550 reloader after the ball game today...

The second brass casing I pushed in to the sizing die went in real hard. On
the down stroke it stripped out of the shell plate and its jammed in there
good.

Of course, trying to get it out, I've made the situation far worse. I
finally released a bunch of expletives and called it a day.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to make a bunch of "U" shape bushings so I can screw
the primer push pin and bullet swage out. Then I'm thinking make a threaded
bushing to hold a grease zirk and use a grease gun to jack the brass out of
the die. Good Plan?

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?

Karl


OOPS,
Sounds like you either didn't lube the case OR there is a chunk of crud
binding the two.


There are a few ways of getting them out. If your REALLY lucky you
can remove the de-capping pin and go in with a brass drift and drive the
case out.

Next on the list is a Forster stuck case tool. It's basically a guided
hardened steel pin. Cost is about 20 bucks. And it's well worth the money.

OR you can do it the hard way, use a Dremel tool and cut the base off of
the case GENTLY, then go inside the case and score it deep enough that
you can fold one section in.

Bet you don't forget case lube again. Oh you may want to look at a
carbide die if available in the caliber your loading. They don't stick
as bad if you forget the lube. They also L A S T .....



--
Steve W.

On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 01:44:40 -0500, "Buerste"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 19:17:45 -0600, "Snag" wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Started playing with my Dillon 550 reloader after the ball game
today...
The second brass casing I pushed in to the sizing die went in real
hard. On the down stroke it stripped out of the shell plate and its
jammed in there good.

Of course, trying to get it out, I've made the situation far worse. I
finally released a bunch of expletives and called it a day.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to make a bunch of "U" shape bushings so I can
screw the primer push pin and bullet swage out. Then I'm thinking
make a threaded bushing to hold a grease zirk and use a grease gun to
jack the brass out of the die. Good Plan?

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?

Karl

Did you use case lube ? The last time I stuck a case , I drilled and
threaded the base for a stud , used a nut and sleeve to pull it out . That
case sits on the ladge over the bench as a reminder to lube cases ...
BTW , if that case is stuck full-depth in the die , you're NOT going to
pull the neck expander button out . Best to unscrew it from the decapper
rod
and cut the case open after extraction .


Sigh..ayup.

Karl..did you buy Carbide sizing dies or standard ones? Carbide you can
resize without lube..standard dies..you HAVE to use lubricant.

Follow the above directions.

Next time..mix up a can of STP with just about anything oil based..10
weight or 5 weight thin oil...I usually use a quart of DTE light and a
small can of STP. Lasts ****ing forever.

You sprinkle a few drops on a pad of closed cell foam, felt,
anything..rub it in and roll the cartridges across it under the palm of
your hand and then size em. You need just a bare amount..but in standard
dies..you DO need lube.

I figured that when you got the Dillion..you got Carbide dies, so didnt
say anything.

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Even with carbide, lube is almost always needed. Without it, you lose the
"feel" of the operation and the amount of work you have to do triples.

Hummm..Ive got about 20 sets of carbide..and 30 non carbide +/- 5 or
so..and nearly never use lube. Never noticed the problem. But I do lube
1 or two in 30-50 just to keep em from building up brass and scratching.
30 seconds with a bit of sand paper and a wad holder in an electric
drill cleans em up nicely.

Shrug...your probably correct. Im just lazy G

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 01:44:40 -0500, "Buerste"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 19:17:45 -0600, "Snag" wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:
Started playing with my Dillon 550 reloader after the ball game
today...
The second brass casing I pushed in to the sizing die went in real
hard. On the down stroke it stripped out of the shell plate and its
jammed in there good.

Of course, trying to get it out, I've made the situation far worse. I
finally released a bunch of expletives and called it a day.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to make a bunch of "U" shape bushings so I can
screw the primer push pin and bullet swage out. Then I'm thinking
make a threaded bushing to hold a grease zirk and use a grease gun to
jack the brass out of the die. Good Plan?

More important, any idea what I did wrong to cause this mess and how I
should avoid it in the future?

Karl

Did you use case lube ? The last time I stuck a case , I drilled and
threaded the base for a stud , used a nut and sleeve to pull it out .
That
case sits on the ladge over the bench as a reminder to lube cases ...
BTW , if that case is stuck full-depth in the die , you're NOT going
to
pull the neck expander button out . Best to unscrew it from the decapper
rod
and cut the case open after extraction .


Sigh..ayup.

Karl..did you buy Carbide sizing dies or standard ones? Carbide you can
resize without lube..standard dies..you HAVE to use lubricant.

Follow the above directions.

Next time..mix up a can of STP with just about anything oil based..10
weight or 5 weight thin oil...I usually use a quart of DTE light and a
small can of STP. Lasts ****ing forever.

You sprinkle a few drops on a pad of closed cell foam, felt,
anything..rub it in and roll the cartridges across it under the palm of
your hand and then size em. You need just a bare amount..but in standard
dies..you DO need lube.

I figured that when you got the Dillion..you got Carbide dies, so didnt
say anything.

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Even with carbide, lube is almost always needed. Without it, you lose the
"feel" of the operation and the amount of work you have to do triples.

Hummm..Ive got about 20 sets of carbide..and 30 non carbide +/- 5 or
so..and nearly never use lube. Never noticed the problem. But I do lube
1 or two in 30-50 just to keep em from building up brass and scratching.
30 seconds with a bit of sand paper and a wad holder in an electric
drill cleans em up nicely.

Shrug...your probably correct. Im just lazy G

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

The other side of the coin is overlubing that wrinkles cases and migrates
everywhere. I have a spray can that will probably last my lifetime. Some
people use spray vegetable oil like Pam. There's something about
metal-to-metal contact without a lube that rankles me. I guess it's since I
can't get my operators to oil and grease machines until metal powder builds
up or something seizes.

Karl Townsend wrote:
Did you use case lube ? The last time I stuck a case , I drilled and
threaded the base for a stud , used a nut and sleeve to pull it out
. That case sits on the ladge over the bench as a reminder to lube
cases ... BTW , if that case is stuck full-depth in the die ,
you're NOT going to pull the neck expander button out . Best to
unscrew it from the decapper rod and cut the case open after
extraction .

I "think" I used lube. Being an FNG here, I was still figuring how to
set up the die and maybe grabbed an unlubed brass.

I'm not with you on how to unscrew the decapper rod. I've not seen
this die apart so I'm at a disadvantage here. On the top of the die,
I've got a bolt, clip and jam nut. I removed the clip and unthreaded
the bolt. It won't come apart further. I'm thinking of using that nut
and bushings to pull the bolt out. The bolt must somehow hold the
primer push pin and neck expander.
If I can somehow remove the primer push pin, i can see threading the
brass for a pull bolt would work. Right now, the push pin is in the
brass primer hole.

Karl

Most dies (all of mine) have a "sleeve" (some knurled , some are hex) that
screws into the top of the die , some have the decapper threaded into this
sleeve , some use it as a collet w/nut to retain the rod . That sleeve is
what you need to unscrew . The expander button is usually a collet nut that
retains the decapper pin . If you pull up until it "jams" against the
neck/shoulder of the case you should be able to unscrew the rod from it .
BTW , what brand dies ? I like RCBS ...
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF