Anyone ever build a sawbuck, an X shaped sawhorse to hold logs on while
cutting?

Suggestions appreciated.

Steve

On Oct 6, 4:55*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
Anyone ever build a sawbuck, an X shaped sawhorse to hold logs on while
cutting?

Suggestions appreciated.

Steve

Folding.

Three sets of Xs, so you can cut short stuff between two close ones.

John Martin

On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 14:55:12 -0600, SteveB wrote:
Anyone ever build a sawbuck, an X shaped sawhorse to hold logs on while
cutting?

Suggestions appreciated.

There's a link to a pdf of a Mother Earth News sawbuck article
at top center of http://www.lcwoodworkers.com/projects.htm.
The idea at http://www.ericsprojects.com/?page_id=87 of
having the hinge point higher up (for wider footprint) is worth
considering. From my limited experience, they easily tip over
if the base isn't wide enough.

--
jiw

"James Waldby" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 14:55:12 -0600, SteveB wrote:
Anyone ever build a sawbuck, an X shaped sawhorse to hold logs on while
cutting?

Suggestions appreciated.

There's a link to a pdf of a Mother Earth News sawbuck article
at top center of http://www.lcwoodworkers.com/projects.htm.
The idea at http://www.ericsprojects.com/?page_id=87 of
having the hinge point higher up (for wider footprint) is worth
considering. From my limited experience, they easily tip over
if the base isn't wide enough.

--
jiw

I googled and saw Eric's project. I think it might be worth it to make it
in pieces, then thread a pipe through it when I want to use it. 4 x 4 legs,
plywood bracing. This being a metal working group, and me being a welder, I
figgered to build it out of steel. Then a guy said he had done it, and
steel doesn't have the give of wood when it comes to a cut through or a
plain screw up. Now, I'm thinking wood, except for the center pipe. May
use light chain to keep the legs spread out.

Steve

"SteveB" wrote:

Anyone ever build a sawbuck, an X shaped sawhorse to hold logs on while
cutting?

Suggestions appreciated.

Steve


How about a timberjack instead?

http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Indus.../dp/B0000E1OS2


I keep meaning to buy one.

Wes

On Tue, 6 Oct 2009 14:55:12 -0600, the infamous "SteveB"
scrawled the following:

Anyone ever build a sawbuck, an X shaped sawhorse to hold logs on while
cutting?

Suggestions appreciated.

Yeah, I cut some pieces and my neighbor built them for his church
crew. We used 2x4 stock and 1/4" machine bolts. I'd have gone 3/8
myself, and galv instead of zinc as he did. We used 8x36x1/2" ply to
hold the two together. He used a piece of 2x4 as a stop and they
broke frequently at the holddown screws. I'd have chained the legs so
they provided the stops as the X opened up. I might have gone with
2x6 stock, too, if I wanted them to last a bit longer.

If you build them with sawn logs for heavier log cutting, use 5/8 galv
lags to hold the Xes together and chains to stop. Beefy, mon.

http://www.lcwoodworkers.com/images/...e/Sawbuckp.pdf uses a dowel
instead of lags. Cute.

--
Reading well is one of the great pleasures that solitude can afford you.
-- Harold Bloom, O Magazine, April 2003

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
Anyone ever build a sawbuck, an X shaped sawhorse to hold logs on while
cutting?

Suggestions appreciated.

Steve


I used to use old X shaped cable spools. Way back, they used to wash up on
the beach here.

Steve.

Larry Jaques wrote:
....
http://www.lcwoodworkers.com/images/...e/Sawbuckp.pdf uses a dowel
instead of lags. Cute.

That's it, that's the one to make. The dowel is inspired - it lets you
have ADJUSTABLE center supports, for different length pieces.

But if you're going to be dumping 3 or 4' lengths of log onto it, you
would be better using pipe instead of dowel. And to beef it up more,
you could put gussets on the legs where the dowel/pipe passes through -
that's where the stress risers are.

Personally, lifting logs onto a sawbuck is more work than I care to do.
I just cut them on the ground, propped up a little. A timberjack
would be nice, though.

Bob

On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 19:45:32 -0400, Wes wrote:

"SteveB" wrote:

Anyone ever build a sawbuck, an X shaped sawhorse to hold logs on while
cutting?

Suggestions appreciated.

Steve


How about a timberjack instead?

http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Indus.../dp/B0000E1OS2


I keep meaning to buy one.

Wes

Yeah, I've had one for many years. They are a lot easier than lifting
a big log onto sawbucks, also handy when used as a cant hook, for
rolling logs about. You will find that you have to reposition/relift
it every couple of cuts, but no biggie. The other option is to cut the
log on the ground, and just change/sharpen the chain every few cuts
g.

Joe

I buck most of the firewood to 4 feet or so on the ground - if it's not
easy to move by that point, it's probably not best used as firewood.
Lumber and turning stock from the big stuff for me - burning it is a
waste. For getting from 4 feet to stove length, something like a sawbuck
is convenient, though I prefer something less like the traditional
shape.

Take a square U shape. Cross-brace or plywood the bottom up to a
convenient working height. Size the U so that your chainsaw bar reaches
across it with the chainsaw body outside the U upright. Set several in a
line and attach; board over one end. Space the U's with an eye to the
length of stovewood you want. Drop in one or several logs, butted up to
the boarded end, and cut your way down between the U's. Unload and
repeat.

2x4's work fine, since I'm not dropping logs I'd need the tractor to
pick up in the thing.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On Oct 7, 12:01*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
http://www.lcwoodworkers.com/images/...wbuckp.pdfuses a dowel
instead of lags. *Cute.



To me, that's a poor design. Having pieces at the top running the
length of the sawbuck means that you can't make any cuts inside. Put
the braces at the bottom, so the top is open.

John Martin

On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 12:08:10 -0400, Ecnerwal
wrote:


I buck most of the firewood to 4 feet or so on the ground - if it's not
easy to move by that point, it's probably not best used as firewood.
Lumber and turning stock from the big stuff for me - burning it is a
waste. For getting from 4 feet to stove length, something like a sawbuck
is convenient, though I prefer something less like the traditional
shape.

Take a square U shape. Cross-brace or plywood the bottom up to a
convenient working height. Size the U so that your chainsaw bar reaches
across it with the chainsaw body outside the U upright. Set several in a
line and attach; board over one end. Space the U's with an eye to the
length of stovewood you want. Drop in one or several logs, butted up to
the boarded end, and cut your way down between the U's. Unload and
repeat.

2x4's work fine, since I'm not dropping logs I'd need the tractor to
pick up in the thing.
This is what we had when we burned mill waste - slabs and edgings - in
the cook stove. one load was enough for a couple days. The whole thing
was built of edgings nailed together. Eventually I made up three of
them so only had to load them up and cut once a week.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada