Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls

I picked up a sawsall blade yesterday that has tungsten grit for the cutting edge. After
having to hack into a brake disk the other day, I thought it might be handy to have
around.

Anyone used these things on cast iron? Comments?

Wes
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Default Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls

Wes wrote:

I picked up a sawsall blade yesterday that has tungsten grit for the cutting edge. After
having to hack into a brake disk the other day, I thought it might be handy to have
around.

Anyone used these things on cast iron? Comments?

Wes


Wow, an on topic question and no replies. I guess I'm going to have to try one on a brake
rotor after I change mom's drivers side rotor.

Wes
--
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government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
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Default Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls

In article ,
Wes wrote:

Wow, an on topic question and no replies.


Despite the people that claim that all the spam / politcal BS / BS BS
has no effect, it does - on-topic posts get lost in the noise.

I don't have any sawzall blades of that sort, but I do have a couple of
Remington grit-edge rod saws for the hacksaw, very good for cutting
nearly anything - glass, ceramic tile, hardened steel, etc. Cast iron
should be no problem, though there may (or many not) be better ways to
cut it.

I got a Starrett hacksaw blade (flat with grit edge) and was sorely
disappointed with it - the grit peeled right off - I was looking for
something with less flex than the rods when I was cutting out the
remains of some sorely abused hardened steel bushings which would not
press out. The Remington cut them just fine, but I needed to take it
very lightly to not cut into the housing past the bushing, since the rod
took on a bit of a curve under cutting pressure, even with a
high-tension frame.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
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Default Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls

On Sep 4, 9:59*pm, Ecnerwal
wrote:
In article ,

*Wes wrote:
Wow, an on topic question and no replies.


Despite the people that claim that all the spam / politcal BS / BS BS
has no effect, it does - on-topic posts get lost in the noise.

I don't have any sawzall blades of that sort, but I do have a couple of
Remington grit-edge rod saws for the hacksaw, very good for cutting
nearly anything - glass, ceramic tile, hardened steel, etc. Cast iron
should be no problem, though there may (or many not) be better ways to
cut it.

I got a Starrett hacksaw blade (flat with grit edge) and was sorely
disappointed with it - the grit peeled right off *- I was looking for
something with less flex than the rods when I was cutting out the
remains of some sorely abused hardened steel bushings which would not
press out. The Remington cut them just fine, but I needed to take it
very lightly to not cut into the housing past the bushing, since the rod
took on a bit of a curve under cutting pressure, even with a
high-tension frame.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by


I'll second that the rod saws are great. I've cut tons of tile with
them. I do have a pack of carbide sawzall blades. I haven't tried one
yet, but I had a guy here doing some plumbing, and he gave one a shot
on a 2" iron pipe. He didn't like it - said it didn't cut worth a
damn. I, later in the same job, cut a pipe that was in a closet that
the plumber just couldn't fit in to (BIG guy). I used a brand new
bimetal blade, and it zipped right through.

When I get to doing the tiling (probably in a couple of weeks), I'll
try the carbide blade on that. I was also thinking that the carbide
blade might be useful on harder steels.
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Default Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls

On Fri, 04 Sep 2009 19:09:35 -0400, Wes
wrote:

Wes wrote:

I picked up a sawsall blade yesterday that has tungsten grit for the cutting edge. After
having to hack into a brake disk the other day, I thought it might be handy to have
around.

Anyone used these things on cast iron? Comments?

Wes


Wow, an on topic question and no replies. I guess I'm going to have to try one on a brake
rotor after I change mom's drivers side rotor.

Wes


I would think that you would have to be careful not to flex
them very much side-to-side or risk breaking off the grit.
It seems like I always get a lot of this kind of activity
while cutting anything with a Sawzall.

Let us know how these work out, if and when you find
something worth trying it on again

I got a carbide Dremel cutter ~12 years ago, for just in
case. It sure saved by butt a year ago when I broke an
Easy-out off. Slow going, but it chewed through it. Still
worked pretty well afterwards too. What was left of the
stuck bolt cut like butter after getting through the
Easy-out...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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Default Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls

On Sep 4, 8:59*pm, Ecnerwal
wrote:
In article ,

*Wes wrote:
Wow, an on topic question and no replies.


Despite the people that claim that all the spam / politcal BS / BS BS
has no effect, it does - on-topic posts get lost in the noise.

I don't have any sawzall blades of that sort, but I do have a couple of
Remington grit-edge rod saws for the hacksaw, very good for cutting
nearly anything - glass, ceramic tile, hardened steel, etc. Cast iron
should be no problem, though there may (or many not) be better ways to
cut it.

I got a Starrett hacksaw blade (flat with grit edge) and was sorely
disappointed with it - the grit peeled right off *- I was looking for
something with less flex than the rods when I was cutting out the
remains of some sorely abused hardened steel bushings which would not
press out. The Remington cut them just fine, but I needed to take it
very lightly to not cut into the housing past the bushing, since the rod
took on a bit of a curve under cutting pressure, even with a
high-tension frame.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by


I agree...so take it up with the conservative idiots that do it.

As for the carbide blades, they work well.

One needs to remember that you are "grinding" your way through the
item being cut.

That means that they are slower than the normal blade.

But the normal blade wouldn't be able to cut through what the carbide
does.

Some people will bitch that they are slower...those people would
complain if they had a light saber to work with. ;)

TMT
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