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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls
I picked up a sawsall blade yesterday that has tungsten grit for the cutting edge. After
having to hack into a brake disk the other day, I thought it might be handy to have around. Anyone used these things on cast iron? Comments? Wes |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls
Wes wrote:
I picked up a sawsall blade yesterday that has tungsten grit for the cutting edge. After having to hack into a brake disk the other day, I thought it might be handy to have around. Anyone used these things on cast iron? Comments? Wes Wow, an on topic question and no replies. I guess I'm going to have to try one on a brake rotor after I change mom's drivers side rotor. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls
In article ,
Wes wrote: Wow, an on topic question and no replies. Despite the people that claim that all the spam / politcal BS / BS BS has no effect, it does - on-topic posts get lost in the noise. I don't have any sawzall blades of that sort, but I do have a couple of Remington grit-edge rod saws for the hacksaw, very good for cutting nearly anything - glass, ceramic tile, hardened steel, etc. Cast iron should be no problem, though there may (or many not) be better ways to cut it. I got a Starrett hacksaw blade (flat with grit edge) and was sorely disappointed with it - the grit peeled right off - I was looking for something with less flex than the rods when I was cutting out the remains of some sorely abused hardened steel bushings which would not press out. The Remington cut them just fine, but I needed to take it very lightly to not cut into the housing past the bushing, since the rod took on a bit of a curve under cutting pressure, even with a high-tension frame. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
#4
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Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls
On Sep 4, 9:59*pm, Ecnerwal
wrote: In article , *Wes wrote: Wow, an on topic question and no replies. Despite the people that claim that all the spam / politcal BS / BS BS has no effect, it does - on-topic posts get lost in the noise. I don't have any sawzall blades of that sort, but I do have a couple of Remington grit-edge rod saws for the hacksaw, very good for cutting nearly anything - glass, ceramic tile, hardened steel, etc. Cast iron should be no problem, though there may (or many not) be better ways to cut it. I got a Starrett hacksaw blade (flat with grit edge) and was sorely disappointed with it - the grit peeled right off *- I was looking for something with less flex than the rods when I was cutting out the remains of some sorely abused hardened steel bushings which would not press out. The Remington cut them just fine, but I needed to take it very lightly to not cut into the housing past the bushing, since the rod took on a bit of a curve under cutting pressure, even with a high-tension frame. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by I'll second that the rod saws are great. I've cut tons of tile with them. I do have a pack of carbide sawzall blades. I haven't tried one yet, but I had a guy here doing some plumbing, and he gave one a shot on a 2" iron pipe. He didn't like it - said it didn't cut worth a damn. I, later in the same job, cut a pipe that was in a closet that the plumber just couldn't fit in to (BIG guy). I used a brand new bimetal blade, and it zipped right through. When I get to doing the tiling (probably in a couple of weeks), I'll try the carbide blade on that. I was also thinking that the carbide blade might be useful on harder steels. |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls
On Fri, 04 Sep 2009 19:09:35 -0400, Wes
wrote: Wes wrote: I picked up a sawsall blade yesterday that has tungsten grit for the cutting edge. After having to hack into a brake disk the other day, I thought it might be handy to have around. Anyone used these things on cast iron? Comments? Wes Wow, an on topic question and no replies. I guess I'm going to have to try one on a brake rotor after I change mom's drivers side rotor. Wes I would think that you would have to be careful not to flex them very much side-to-side or risk breaking off the grit. It seems like I always get a lot of this kind of activity while cutting anything with a Sawzall. Let us know how these work out, if and when you find something worth trying it on again I got a carbide Dremel cutter ~12 years ago, for just in case. It sure saved by butt a year ago when I broke an Easy-out off. Slow going, but it chewed through it. Still worked pretty well afterwards too. What was left of the stuck bolt cut like butter after getting through the Easy-out... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Tungsten grit blades for sawsalls
On Sep 4, 8:59*pm, Ecnerwal
wrote: In article , *Wes wrote: Wow, an on topic question and no replies. Despite the people that claim that all the spam / politcal BS / BS BS has no effect, it does - on-topic posts get lost in the noise. I don't have any sawzall blades of that sort, but I do have a couple of Remington grit-edge rod saws for the hacksaw, very good for cutting nearly anything - glass, ceramic tile, hardened steel, etc. Cast iron should be no problem, though there may (or many not) be better ways to cut it. I got a Starrett hacksaw blade (flat with grit edge) and was sorely disappointed with it - the grit peeled right off *- I was looking for something with less flex than the rods when I was cutting out the remains of some sorely abused hardened steel bushings which would not press out. The Remington cut them just fine, but I needed to take it very lightly to not cut into the housing past the bushing, since the rod took on a bit of a curve under cutting pressure, even with a high-tension frame. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by I agree...so take it up with the conservative idiots that do it. As for the carbide blades, they work well. One needs to remember that you are "grinding" your way through the item being cut. That means that they are slower than the normal blade. But the normal blade wouldn't be able to cut through what the carbide does. Some people will bitch that they are slower...those people would complain if they had a light saber to work with. ;) TMT |
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