Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Jul 24, 9:27 pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Jul 23, 10:26 pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
[attach thin plate?]
Michael Koblic

http://www.midwestfasteners.com/prod...ess/whatis.php

That is cool!

Michael Koblic

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3223

Don't have one, don't know how well they work, studs aren't rustproof,
but it's a start. Has anyone tried them with other hardware such as
stainless steel flathead screws?


OK, as far as I can determine there have to be studs of definite shape to
work with this (certainly with the HF one!). One would hope that one could
weld other fasteners this way to flat pieces, e.g. short lengths of threaded
rod.

I wonder: Could one improvise this method? I guess a few Leyden jars would
fill the bedroom...

--
Michael Koblic
Campbell River, BC

On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:20:20 -0500, the infamous "Karl Townsend"
scrawled the following:


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
How much torque is involved? Makes a huge difference.

1/2 hp. servo. I think this is at 3000 rpm. Torque*rpm* factor= hp. Don't
remember factor off hand.

Really quick & easy, and easy to undo (unlike silver solder): a tack of
weld on the end, bridging the shaft & sprocket. Quick & Dirty (tm).

Don't like this idea.

Roll pin or taper pin. If high torque. Whilst drilling for a pin, I
assure the alignment by doing the tack weld above & drilling both at once.

Bob

May try a roll pin if adhesive bonding don't work.

If both the shaft and gear hub are soft enough, could you drill and
tap a couple split holes in the end of the shaft/side of gear, where
the screw would engage both? It would give you a key of sorts and
hold the gear in place at the end of the shaft. Maybe add Loctite.

--
Mistrust the man who finds everything good, the man who finds everything
evil, and still more the man who is indifferent to everything.
-- Johann K. Lavater

On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 23:49:59 -0500, the infamous Don Foreman
scrawled the following:

On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 18:51:42 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

Don Foreman writes:


Parts should fit snugly. They should be reasonably clean but this isn't
terribly fussy. A quick squirt of Brake-Kleen and a wipe or blow off is
quite sufficient.

I've always used starting ether for the final cleaning as the
residue from other stuph can bite you back.

Comments?

Brake-Kleen isn't supposed to leave a residue. I use it for final
cleaning of bearings after gross cleaning with varsol and acetone,
which do leave residues.

Yeah, I've used lacquer thinner, Brake-Kleen, and Berryman's B-12 carb
cleaner as non-residue cleaners for decades now. All work great.

--
Mistrust the man who finds everything good, the man who finds everything
evil, and still more the man who is indifferent to everything.
-- Johann K. Lavater