I originally posted this on 11 March 2009, but didn't have the pictures
up on the dropbox, due to a cockpit problem. That's solved, and here is
an updated version of the posting.

I finally got around to making two sets of flanged half-sleeves that fit
nose-to-nose, two to a grinding wheel with the wheel between. This
pretty much tamed the vibration. What remains appears to be due to
slight warpage of the wheels themselves. I'll dress them true when I
have time to drag the grinder outside (so the resulting cloud of grit
doesn't coat everything in my shop).

The files a

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware.txt

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware_1.jpg

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware_2.jpg


While taking the photos, I found that using a textured background helped
the autofocus camera a lot. Autofocus cameras are not really designed
to focus on shiney metal, and often become confused. This is the cause
of many a blurred photograph. With my camera, an Olympus eVolt 510, it
is also essential to use Macro mode (the symbol on the camera is a
stylized flower).

What also helped a lot was to use a slave flash to fill the room with
light, triggered by the pipsqueak flash on the camera. The slave flash
is pointed away from the camera at the wall and ceiling to the left of
the objects in the photos. The wall and ceiling are painted white.

The trick is to use enough flash power to fill the room without making
the item being photographed too bright. This is actually easy to
accomplish. One just tries flash levels until it works.

I used an old studio flash (from my photo hobby days) turned down to
minimum power, but edison-base AC slave flashes are cheap and common.
One just screws them into a ordinary lamp, and fires away.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/1...lave_Flashes.h
tml.

What also works is a tabletop size light tent illuminated by the flash.
One can improvise serviceable light tents out of white nylon shower
curtains and #10 galvanized steel wire. Almost anything that's
translucent and white will work.

Joe Gwinn

Good work - nice mods. Now how much would you estimate that the
grinder is worth? g

Also, thanks for the link to the screw-in slave flash; I'll probably
order one, just for the convenience of mounting it in various
situations.

Joe



On Wed, 01 Apr 2009 00:04:49 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

I originally posted this on 11 March 2009, but didn't have the pictures
up on the dropbox, due to a cockpit problem. That's solved, and here is
an updated version of the posting.

I finally got around to making two sets of flanged half-sleeves that fit
nose-to-nose, two to a grinding wheel with the wheel between. This
pretty much tamed the vibration. What remains appears to be due to
slight warpage of the wheels themselves. I'll dress them true when I
have time to drag the grinder outside (so the resulting cloud of grit
doesn't coat everything in my shop).

The files a

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware.txt

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware_1.jpg

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware_2.jpg


While taking the photos, I found that using a textured background helped
the autofocus camera a lot. Autofocus cameras are not really designed
to focus on shiney metal, and often become confused. This is the cause
of many a blurred photograph. With my camera, an Olympus eVolt 510, it
is also essential to use Macro mode (the symbol on the camera is a
stylized flower).

What also helped a lot was to use a slave flash to fill the room with
light, triggered by the pipsqueak flash on the camera. The slave flash
is pointed away from the camera at the wall and ceiling to the left of
the objects in the photos. The wall and ceiling are painted white.

The trick is to use enough flash power to fill the room without making
the item being photographed too bright. This is actually easy to
accomplish. One just tries flash levels until it works.

I used an old studio flash (from my photo hobby days) turned down to
minimum power, but edison-base AC slave flashes are cheap and common.
One just screws them into a ordinary lamp, and fires away.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/1...lave_Flashes.h
tml.

What also works is a tabletop size light tent illuminated by the flash.
One can improvise serviceable light tents out of white nylon shower
curtains and #10 galvanized steel wire. Almost anything that's
translucent and white will work.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
Joe wrote:

Good work - nice mods. Now how much would you estimate that the
grinder is worth? g

Thanks. $50? After all, it's used. And user-modified.

If this were purely economics, I would have just junked that Ryobi
grinder and bought a Baldor. I spent far too much time taming that
sorry grinder. But it came out of the education budget.


Also, thanks for the link to the screw-in slave flash; I'll probably
order one, just for the convenience of mounting it in various
situations.

What's also useful is a clamp-base flood lamp holder, as table lamps are
rare in machine shops.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...W_Metal_Socket
_and_Clamp.html


By the way, B&H is reliable. I've bought expensive stuff from them for
at least 20 years, and never a problem.

I have also bought from Adorama (http://www.adorama.com/) for at least
that long.


Joe Gwinn


Joe



On Wed, 01 Apr 2009 00:04:49 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

I originally posted this on 11 March 2009, but didn't have the pictures
up on the dropbox, due to a cockpit problem. That's solved, and here is
an updated version of the posting.

I finally got around to making two sets of flanged half-sleeves that fit
nose-to-nose, two to a grinding wheel with the wheel between. This
pretty much tamed the vibration. What remains appears to be due to
slight warpage of the wheels themselves. I'll dress them true when I
have time to drag the grinder outside (so the resulting cloud of grit
doesn't coat everything in my shop).

The files a

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware.txt

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware_1.jpg

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Grindstone_Mounting_Hardware_2.jpg


While taking the photos, I found that using a textured background helped
the autofocus camera a lot. Autofocus cameras are not really designed
to focus on shiney metal, and often become confused. This is the cause
of many a blurred photograph. With my camera, an Olympus eVolt 510, it
is also essential to use Macro mode (the symbol on the camera is a
stylized flower).

What also helped a lot was to use a slave flash to fill the room with
light, triggered by the pipsqueak flash on the camera. The slave flash
is pointed away from the camera at the wall and ceiling to the left of
the objects in the photos. The wall and ceiling are painted white.

The trick is to use enough flash power to fill the room without making
the item being photographed too bright. This is actually easy to
accomplish. One just tries flash levels until it works.

I used an old studio flash (from my photo hobby days) turned down to
minimum power, but edison-base AC slave flashes are cheap and common.
One just screws them into a ordinary lamp, and fires away.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/10050/AC_Strobe_Units_Slave_Flashes.html

What also works is a tabletop size light tent illuminated by the flash.
One can improvise serviceable light tents out of white nylon shower
curtains and #10 galvanized steel wire. Almost anything that's
translucent and white will work.

Joe Gwinn

On Wed, 01 Apr 2009 09:15:32 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
Joe wrote:

Good work - nice mods. Now how much would you estimate that the
grinder is worth? g

Thanks. $50? After all, it's used. And user-modified.

Actually, my question was tongue-in-cheek about the cost, adding in
the cost of the Highly Professional Machinist (for the flange
fabrication). Of course, you addressed that in the next comment:

If this were purely economics, I would have just junked that Ryobi
grinder and bought a Baldor. I spent far too much time taming that
sorry grinder. But it came out of the education budget.

And nobody said an education was cheap.


Also, thanks for the link to the screw-in slave flash; I'll probably
order one, just for the convenience of mounting it in various
situations.

What's also useful is a clamp-base flood lamp holder, as table lamps are
rare in machine shops.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...W_Metal_Socket
_and_Clamp.html


By the way, B&H is reliable. I've bought expensive stuff from them for
at least 20 years, and never a problem.

You mean better than 47th St Photo? (Ha!) I remember sending some of
my hard-earned dollars to them back in the 60s for a light meter
(Sekonic?). The first one was DOA, the replacement worked for about a
month.

I have bought from B&H numerous times, with good results. They have
good prices on lenses and other stuff for my old Nikon film cameras.
I've also had good luck with a firm in Georgia (KEH?).


I have also bought from Adorama (http://www.adorama.com/) for at least
that long.

Thanks,
Joe

In article ,
Joe wrote:

On Wed, 01 Apr 2009 09:15:32 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
Joe wrote:

Good work - nice mods. Now how much would you estimate that the
grinder is worth? g

Thanks. $50? After all, it's used. And user-modified.

Actually, my question was tongue-in-cheek about the cost, adding in
the cost of the Highly Professional Machinist (for the flange
fabrication). Of course, you addressed that in the next comment:

My answer was deadpan. I'm working the the Machinist part.


If this were purely economics, I would have just junked that Ryobi
grinder and bought a Baldor. I spent far too much time taming that
sorry grinder. But it came out of the education budget.

And nobody said an education was cheap.

Yep. Curing the 5914 lathe of chatter was also quite educational.


Also, thanks for the link to the screw-in slave flash; I'll probably
order one, just for the convenience of mounting it in various
situations.

What's also useful is a clamp-base flood lamp holder, as table lamps are
rare in machine shops.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...W_Metal_Socket
_and_Clamp.html


By the way, B&H is reliable. I've bought expensive stuff from them for
at least 20 years, and never a problem.

You mean better than 47th St Photo? (Ha!) I remember sending some of
my hard-earned dollars to them back in the 60s for a light meter
(Sekonic?). The first one was DOA, the replacement worked for about a
month.

I don't recall buying much from 47th St Photo, but I don't recall why.


I have bought from B&H numerous times, with good results. They have
good prices on lenses and other stuff for my old Nikon film cameras.
I've also had good luck with a firm in Georgia (KEH?).

I do recall having bought from KEH, mostly used Olympus film cameras,
mostly OM and XA stuff, and being satisfied with the purchases.

Joe Gwinn


I have also bought from Adorama (http://www.adorama.com/) for at least
that long.

Thanks,
Joe