I just want to see if others share this experience....

they say you shouldn't do it but I have had really good results with
spraying a light coat of polyurethane over my
painted surfaces.

I'm talking about aluminum parts which I have....

primed and dried well (a week or more) with canned rustoleum primer

painted with a good quality can spray paint (rustoleum -- krylon) and
let dry again, a week or more

sprayed a couple of light coats of the fast drying minwax spray can
satin polyurethane


It makes a huge difference in the ability to keep light scratches from
even appearing.

Anyone else? -- yet they say poly over paint is a big no no.

?

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
I just want to see if others share this experience....

they say you shouldn't do it but I have had really good results with
spraying a light coat of polyurethane over my
painted surfaces.

I'm talking about aluminum parts which I have....

primed and dried well (a week or more) with canned rustoleum primer

painted with a good quality can spray paint (rustoleum -- krylon) and
let dry again, a week or more

sprayed a couple of light coats of the fast drying minwax spray can
satin polyurethane


It makes a huge difference in the ability to keep light scratches from
even appearing.

Anyone else? -- yet they say poly over paint is a big no no.



Rustoleum is a particuarly soft paint in my experience - why not just use
Imron or a poly of your choice to start out with? a good 2 party poly or
epoxy paint will stick to aluminum just fine

Not familiar with Imron -- I'll try it.

Easier, no doubt.

Is the Imron a can spray or do I need to use a gun and compressor?

I'm trying to stay away from the HVLP gun for the moment -- I have
used professional finishes (like Polane)
before -- just can't take the mess and health hazards.

So, for little prototypes, been trying to fine a simpler method.

On Mar 8, 10:28*am, mkr5000 wrote:
I just want to see if others share this experience....

they say you shouldn't do it but I have had really good results with
spraying a light coat of polyurethane over my
painted surfaces.

I'm talking about aluminum parts which I have....

primed and dried well (a week or more) with canned rustoleum primer

painted with a good quality can spray paint (rustoleum -- krylon) and
let dry again, a week or more

sprayed a couple of light coats of the fast drying minwax spray can
satin polyurethane

It makes a huge difference in the ability to keep light scratches from
even appearing.

Anyone else? * -- *yet they say poly over paint is a big no no.

?

Have to agree with the other poster, Rustoleum isn't what I'd use on
objects that are getting a lot of mechanical wear, very soft stuff. I
use an epoxy or polyurethane paint for such things. The problem with
using poly varnish is that it usually doesn't bond very well with
paint under it. Sometimes it doesn't even bond very well with itself,
I've had gun stocks I was finishing have the last coat peel right off,
insufficient mechanical bonding. I don't use it now for such items.
For items that need the maximum protection, there's always automotive
two-part urethanes, with and without a clear-coat. Automotive stuff
is about the toughest finish you can get as a civilian.

For polished aluminum, there are clear lacquers which will give you
some scratch and ding resistance and still stick.

Stan

On Mon, 9 Mar 2009 07:24:42 -0700 (PDT), mkr5000
wrote:

Not familiar with Imron -- I'll try it.

Easier, no doubt.
========
Be sure to read and follow the MSDS to the letter.

The fumes are *HIGHLY* toxic. Several people have died using a
regular paint respirator.

Also be reminded that if you do this at home the fumes can easily
drift from the shop into the house. As the fumes are heavy they
tend to concentrate at floor level where the ankle biters and rug
rats live. Also some pet species are even more susceptible than
people, such as birds and some reptiles.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
Is the Imron a can spray or do I need to use a gun and compressor?

I'm trying to stay away from the HVLP gun for the moment -- I have
used professional finishes (like Polane)
before -- just can't take the mess and health hazards.

So, for little prototypes, been trying to fine a simpler method.


Imron takes a good filter mask, preferred air supplied helmet. Is a nasty
stuff to the body.

Calif Bill wrote:
"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
Is the Imron a can spray or do I need to use a gun and compressor?

I'm trying to stay away from the HVLP gun for the moment -- I have
used professional finishes (like Polane)
before -- just can't take the mess and health hazards.

So, for little prototypes, been trying to fine a simpler method.


Imron takes a good filter mask, preferred air supplied helmet. Is a nasty
stuff to the body.



Using a filter mask when painting Imron will kill you.

Pretty simple there.

follow this link for truck/automotive
http://pc.dupont.com/Phantom/content/imron-comm.html
but this variant is what I had in mind
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/.../dic/home.html

If you go to my web page and look under hobbies/tools, the drill press
pictured is painted with the industrial imron. It's much less nasty than
the older stuff

I've had good luck brushing it on when I didn't want to mix up enough to
spray - and a little hardner added to the mix goes a long way.

data sheets are here
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...oduct/dic.html

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
Not familiar with Imron -- I'll try it.

Easier, no doubt.

Bill Noble wrote:
...
but this variant is what I had in mind
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/.../dic/home.html
...

$41 a /quart/! You treat your machines a lot better than I do. As long
as mine work & aren't rusty, it's good enough.

YMMV,
Bob

On Mar 8, 12:28*pm, mkr5000 wrote:
I just want to see if others share this experience....

they say you shouldn't do it but I have had really good results with
spraying a light coat of polyurethane over my
painted surfaces.

I'm talking about aluminum parts which I have....

primed and dried well (a week or more) with canned rustoleum primer

painted with a good quality can spray paint (rustoleum -- krylon) and
let dry again, a week or more

sprayed a couple of light coats of the fast drying minwax spray can
satin polyurethane

It makes a huge difference in the ability to keep light scratches from
even appearing.

Anyone else? * -- *yet they say poly over paint is a big no no.

As far as compatibility goes, I think Rustoleum "Crystal Clear" Enamel
works pretty well as a topcoat over the other rustoleum spray paints.

It seems to "get hard" faster than the typical Rustoleum stuff (which
is really slow without baking) but it's not a shortcut, you really
have to make sure the bottom coats are thoroughly hardened IMHO.

There are both water-based and oil-based polyurethanes, maybe the
warnings you got about incompatibility are the result of mixing an oil-
based spray paint with a water-based polyurethane. I know that on
wood, putting a coat of latex over oil, or oil over latex, is a real
no-no unless the bottom is really thoroughly super-duper hardened
first. Otherwise you're just sealing in a unhardened layer that won't
harden because of the sealing.

Tim.

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
Bill Noble wrote:
...
but this variant is what I had in mind
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/.../dic/home.html
...

$41 a /quart/! You treat your machines a lot better than I do. As long
as mine work & aren't rusty, it's good enough.

YMMV,
Bob

I don't know, after spending many tens of hours taking a piece of junk back
to working status, I like it to start life with a fresh coat of durable
paint. That drill press on my web page, for example, required less than 1/3
of a pint of paint to paint everything you see that is green. This is far
cheaper, in even the medium run, than a coat of cheap rustoleum that will
not hold up. In my case, I sand blasted everything, painted with an etching
primer from a spray can (didn't want to mix 2 part primers) and then sprayed
with Imron - it took an extra day of calander time (only an hour or so to
spray) but I now have a new looking tool in a nice cool color, and the paint
will probably outlast my children.

If I used the $2/can spray paint, it would already be showing scratches and
rust, it would be peeling,and it would look like some sorry thing the cat
dragged in.

On 2009-03-11, Bill Noble wrote:
I don't know, after spending many tens of hours taking a piece of junk back
to working status, I like it to start life with a fresh coat of durable
paint. That drill press on my web page, for example, required less than 1/3
of a pint of paint to paint everything you see that is green. This is far
cheaper, in even the medium run, than a coat of cheap rustoleum that will
not hold up. In my case, I sand blasted everything, painted with an etching
primer from a spray can (didn't want to mix 2 part primers) and then sprayed
with Imron - it took an extra day of calander time (only an hour or so to
spray) but I now have a new looking tool in a nice cool color, and the paint
will probably outlast my children.

I think that Rustoleum on a home drill press will outlast your
children just as well.

i

If I used the $2/can spray paint, it would already be showing scratches and
rust, it would be peeling,and it would look like some sorry thing the cat
dragged in.



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Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
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"Ignoramus26567" wrote in message
...
On 2009-03-11, Bill Noble wrote:
I don't know, after spending many tens of hours taking a piece of junk
back
to working status, I like it to start life with a fresh coat of durable
paint. That drill press on my web page, for example, required less than
1/3
of a pint of paint to paint everything you see that is green. This is
far
cheaper, in even the medium run, than a coat of cheap rustoleum that will
not hold up. In my case, I sand blasted everything, painted with an
etching
primer from a spray can (didn't want to mix 2 part primers) and then
sprayed
with Imron - it took an extra day of calander time (only an hour or so to
spray) but I now have a new looking tool in a nice cool color, and the
paint
will probably outlast my children.

I think that Rustoleum on a home drill press will outlast your
children just as well.

i

If I used the $2/can spray paint, it would already be showing scratches
and
rust, it would be peeling,and it would look like some sorry thing the cat
dragged in.



sadly, this is a case where thinking it doesn't make it so - rustoleum is
soft, in my rather limited experience it will be scratched almost
immediatly, and then you get rust where the scratches are. But this is all
about preferences - I don't like to do things over, so I try hard to fix
them "forever" the first time. I have painted patio furniture with good
quality automotive urethane and I have painted it with rustoleum from a
spray can - let's say I'm happy with the repaint. I've painted car parts
with rustoleum, and I have not been pleased. I've painted hand tools....
you get the idea - but by all means, do what you want to do.

On 2009-03-11, Bill Noble wrote:
I think that Rustoleum on a home drill press will outlast your
children just as well.

sadly, this is a case where thinking it doesn't make it so - rustoleum is
soft, in my rather limited experience it will be scratched almost
immediatly, and then you get rust where the scratches are. But this is all
about preferences - I don't like to do things over, so I try hard to fix
them "forever" the first time. I have painted patio furniture with good
quality automotive urethane and I have painted it with rustoleum from a
spray can - let's say I'm happy with the repaint. I've painted car parts
with rustoleum, and I have not been pleased. I've painted hand tools....
you get the idea - but by all means, do what you want to do.


This depends on application. Patio furniture, hand tools, or car parts
get much more exposure to scratches and elements than would a drill
press. Drill press stays in one place, is not rained on, you do not
bang it and do not need to touch painted parts of it all that much.

I painted a custom boat piece with Rustoleum hammered paint. It was
outside 100% of the time for 3-4 years and did not rust (and it was
not subjected to any physical erosion). Now the boat is gone.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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