http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3297

Ok, I'm slow today I guess, but can anybody explain to me the mechanics of
using this? If it works I've got a C-channel frame trailer I would love to
do some tweaking on. I see the picture and my usually decent visualizations
skills totally fail me this morning.

On Feb 27, 9:57*am, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3297

Ok, I'm slow today I guess, but can anybody explain to me the mechanics of
using this? *If it works I've got a C-channel frame trailer I would love to
do some tweaking on. *I see the picture and my usually decent visualizations
skills totally fail me this morning.

That's just the basic power unit, it's up to YOU to figure out how to
couple the thing to what you want to bend(straighten) and with what.
Probably there's a community college course on auto body repair that
covers how to use it fully.

Stan

I haven't used that one but standard ones depend on having lots of tie
down spots in the floor. A friend poured his garage floor with strategic
loops of rebar sticking up around the edges. A regular shop might have
steel T bar slots cast in the floor.

This unit looks like it has two pulleys suitable for chain. To use, you
set the vehicle up on some heavy duty special purpose jack stands and
anchor with chain. The pull arm is set up to get the proper pull
direction angle and then held in place with chains to your floor system.
The cahin is attached to the the vehicle, run through the upper chain
pulley, down to the lower chain pulley on the triangle plate attached to
the cylinder, and back up to the secondary anchor or to the notch in the
triangle block.

The low buck version of these are nothing more than some stands with a
suitable post and link positions that can be chained in place. Hook up a
ratcheting chain hoist to get the pull you need.

The pros at this are really fun to watch. The car uncrumples like some
animation run in reverse.

Bob La Londe wrote:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3297

Ok, I'm slow today I guess, but can anybody explain to me the mechanics
of using this? If it works I've got a C-channel frame trailer I would
love to do some tweaking on. I see the picture and my usually decent
visualizations skills totally fail me this morning.

On Feb 27, 12:06*pm, wrote:
On Feb 27, 9:57*am, "Bob La Londe" wrote:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3297

Ok, I'm slow today I guess, but can anybody explain to me the mechanics of
using this? *If it works I've got a C-channel frame trailer I would love to
do some tweaking on. *I see the picture and my usually decent visualizations
skills totally fail me this morning.

That's just the basic power unit, it's up to YOU to figure out how to
couple the thing to what you want to bend(straighten) and with what.
Probably there's a community college course on auto body repair that
covers how to use it fully.

Stan

I've never seen one, but the downloaded manual shows a bellcrank in
the base that apparently moves a pulley downward as the ram extends.
Another pulley higher up changes the vertical pull to horizontal? I
presume it's easier and faster to set up than loose chains and a pull-
back ram or cable pullers although you still need a solid anchor and
the pump from a Porta-Power kit.

Jim Wilkins

"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
I haven't used that one but standard ones depend on having lots of tie down
spots in the floor. A friend poured his garage floor with strategic loops
of rebar sticking up around the edges. A regular shop might have steel T
bar slots cast in the floor.

This unit looks like it has two pulleys suitable for chain. To use, you
set the vehicle up on some heavy duty special purpose jack stands and
anchor with chain. The pull arm is set up to get the proper pull direction
angle and then held in place with chains to your floor system. The cahin
is attached to the the vehicle, run through the upper chain pulley, down
to the lower chain pulley on the triangle plate attached to the cylinder,
and back up to the secondary anchor or to the notch in the triangle block.

The low buck version of these are nothing more than some stands with a
suitable post and link positions that can be chained in place. Hook up a
ratcheting chain hoist to get the pull you need.

The pros at this are really fun to watch. The car uncrumples like some
animation run in reverse.

Bob La Londe wrote:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3297

Ok, I'm slow today I guess, but can anybody explain to me the mechanics
of using this? If it works I've got a C-channel frame trailer I would
love to do some tweaking on. I see the picture and my usually decent
visualizations skills totally fail me this morning.

Ok. I got it now. I have always used a piece of I-beam, some blocks,
hooks and/or chain, and a hydraulic jack. Since I do not plan to put
anchors in the floor of my shop for that sort of thing I'll just stick with
my I-beam. I was hoping it was some really clever miracle device that I
just didn't understand.

A suitable I beam (at least 5", 6" is better) slid under the vehicle
with a fixed vertical post can do the majority of what needs to be done.
Didn't say it was as easy to use or flexible but it does get the job
done. I've seen folks put this sort of rig on casters, drill lots of
attachment holes and use a ratchet puller and do good work.

Bob La Londe wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
I haven't used that one but standard ones depend on having lots of tie down
spots in the floor. A friend poured his garage floor with strategic loops
of rebar sticking up around the edges. A regular shop might have steel T
bar slots cast in the floor.

This unit looks like it has two pulleys suitable for chain. To use, you
set the vehicle up on some heavy duty special purpose jack stands and
anchor with chain. The pull arm is set up to get the proper pull direction
angle and then held in place with chains to your floor system. The cahin
is attached to the the vehicle, run through the upper chain pulley, down
to the lower chain pulley on the triangle plate attached to the cylinder,
and back up to the secondary anchor or to the notch in the triangle block.

The low buck version of these are nothing more than some stands with a
suitable post and link positions that can be chained in place. Hook up a
ratcheting chain hoist to get the pull you need.

The pros at this are really fun to watch. The car uncrumples like some
animation run in reverse.

Bob La Londe wrote:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3297

Ok, I'm slow today I guess, but can anybody explain to me the mechanics
of using this? If it works I've got a C-channel frame trailer I would
love to do some tweaking on. I see the picture and my usually decent
visualizations skills totally fail me this morning.

Ok. I got it now. I have always used a piece of I-beam, some blocks,
hooks and/or chain, and a hydraulic jack. Since I do not plan to put
anchors in the floor of my shop for that sort of thing I'll just stick with
my I-beam. I was hoping it was some really clever miracle device that I
just didn't understand.

On Feb 27, 2:01*pm, RoyJ wrote:

Ok. *I got it now. *I have always used a piece of I-beam, some blocks,
hooks and/or chain, and a hydraulic jack. *Since I do not plan to put
anchors in the floor of my shop for that sort of thing I'll just stick with
my I-beam. *I was hoping it was some really clever miracle device that I
just didn't understand.-

I use two big trees and a cable puller.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Feb 27, 2:01 pm, RoyJ wrote:

Ok. I got it now. I have always used a piece of I-beam, some blocks,
hooks and/or chain, and a hydraulic jack. Since I do not plan to put
anchors in the floor of my shop for that sort of thing I'll just stick
with
my I-beam. I was hoping it was some really clever miracle device that I
just didn't understand.-

I use two big trees and a cable puller.

You guys sure must run into a lot of stuff. d8-)

I've only hit things three times in 46 years of driving, plus one time on a
race track, and I made damned sure my vehicle was destroyed beyond repair
each time. It sure makes life simpler.

Oh, and make sure you're wearing your seat belt...

--
Ed Huntress