My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Bob La Londe wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Re-bore the nylon pulleys and install bronze bushings.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:07:21 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Sounds like a good plan UNLESS you are in salt water.

Karl

On Jan 26, 12:19*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:07:21 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. *On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. *This causes steering cables to pop off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. *Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Sounds like a good plan UNLESS you are in salt water.

Karl

In which case buy some Delrin and turn some new pulleys...

Cliff.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:07:21 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

The usual "marine alloy" is usually one of the 60 series, 6061 for
instance. Generally parts for boats are anodized but making a few
spare pulleys will probably "solve" any corrosion problems. By the
way, do not mix aluminum and stainless in salt water environments
unless you insulate them from each other.
Cheers,

Bruce

"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:07:21 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys
have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop
off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

The usual "marine alloy" is usually one of the 60 series, 6061 for
instance. Generally parts for boats are anodized but making a few
spare pulleys will probably "solve" any corrosion problems. By the
way, do not mix aluminum and stainless in salt water environments
unless you insulate them from each other.
Cheers,

Bruce

5052 is also a marine alloy. Used more than 6xxx series. Both are very low
copper. the 60xx is harder. Most of the river jetboats are 5052, with some
of the bottoms having 6000 series in critical contact areas. but I would
just bore the pulleys and add a bearing hub. A new Delran, or a roller
bearing, or a bronze bushing.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 10:13:30 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Bob La Londe wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Re-bore the nylon pulleys and install bronze bushings.

Yup, or just make some brass pulleys. They're small.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 21:02:29 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:07:21 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys
have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop
off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

The usual "marine alloy" is usually one of the 60 series, 6061 for
instance. Generally parts for boats are anodized but making a few
spare pulleys will probably "solve" any corrosion problems. By the
way, do not mix aluminum and stainless in salt water environments
unless you insulate them from each other.
Cheers,

Bruce

5052 is also a marine alloy. Used more than 6xxx series. Both are very low
copper. the 60xx is harder. Most of the river jetboats are 5052, with some
of the bottoms having 6000 series in critical contact areas. but I would
just bore the pulleys and add a bearing hub. A new Delran, or a roller
bearing, or a bronze bushing.


So would I but he did ask about "aluminum".
Cheers,

Bruce

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 23:09:42 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 10:13:30 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Bob La Londe wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Re-bore the nylon pulleys and install bronze bushings.

Yup, or just make some brass pulleys. They're small.


I knew an old boat builder and lobster fisherman in Maine that used
flat chain as steering "cables". He had a few of the small iron
pulleys that you use on porch awnings to guide it. I asked him why not
proper plastic coated cables and good pulleys and he told me that the
chain and cast iron pulleys were cheaper and he just replaced them
every couple of years. Said it was a lot cheaper then the fancy
plastic coated cable and bronze blocks.

Cheers,

Bruce

"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 23:09:42 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 10:13:30 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Bob La Londe wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in
them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On
one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys
have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop
off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around)
would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still
be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Re-bore the nylon pulleys and install bronze bushings.

Yup, or just make some brass pulleys. They're small.


I knew an old boat builder and lobster fisherman in Maine that used
flat chain as steering "cables". He had a few of the small iron
pulleys that you use on porch awnings to guide it. I asked him why not
proper plastic coated cables and good pulleys and he told me that the
chain and cast iron pulleys were cheaper and he just replaced them
every couple of years. Said it was a lot cheaper then the fancy
plastic coated cable and bronze blocks.

Besides the plastic on the cables comes apart after a while anyway depending
on the climate.

For small outboards single control cable rack and pinion steering, for
medium size dual cable, and for big ones go hydraulic. If lubed properly
the direct cable steering willl last the life of the boat. NOT pulley cable
with spring block like the mentioned party was using for his chain. Still
cheap is cheap.

"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 21:02:29 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:07:21 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in
them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On
one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys
have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop
off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still
be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

The usual "marine alloy" is usually one of the 60 series, 6061 for
instance. Generally parts for boats are anodized but making a few
spare pulleys will probably "solve" any corrosion problems. By the
way, do not mix aluminum and stainless in salt water environments
unless you insulate them from each other.
Cheers,

Bruce

5052 is also a marine alloy. Used more than 6xxx series. Both are very
low
copper. the 60xx is harder. Most of the river jetboats are 5052, with
some
of the bottoms having 6000 series in critical contact areas. but I would
just bore the pulleys and add a bearing hub. A new Delran, or a roller
bearing, or a bronze bushing.


So would I but he did ask about "aluminum".
Cheers,

Bruce

I was replying to the guy who stated Marine Aluminum Alloy was 6000 series.
5052 is very much a marine alloy. My 1991 Aluminum river jetboat is made of
the stuff and still is in fine shape. Only corrosion hole in the bottom
(3/16 thick) was in the anchor locker where a copper wire had fallen into
the muck that forms around the limber hole.

On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 12:27:57 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 23:09:42 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 10:13:30 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Bob La Londe wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in
them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On
one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys
have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop
off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around)
would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still
be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Re-bore the nylon pulleys and install bronze bushings.

Yup, or just make some brass pulleys. They're small.


I knew an old boat builder and lobster fisherman in Maine that used
flat chain as steering "cables". He had a few of the small iron
pulleys that you use on porch awnings to guide it. I asked him why not
proper plastic coated cables and good pulleys and he told me that the
chain and cast iron pulleys were cheaper and he just replaced them
every couple of years. Said it was a lot cheaper then the fancy
plastic coated cable and bronze blocks.

Besides the plastic on the cables comes apart after a while anyway depending
on the climate.

For small outboards single control cable rack and pinion steering, for
medium size dual cable, and for big ones go hydraulic. If lubed properly
the direct cable steering willl last the life of the boat. NOT pulley cable
with spring block like the mentioned party was using for his chain. Still
cheap is cheap.

The trolling motors I repaired pulleys on some years ago, Motorguide
and MinnKota, did not have plastic on the cables.

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
m...

"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 21:02:29 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:07:21 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in
them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On
one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys
have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop
off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around)
would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still
be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

The usual "marine alloy" is usually one of the 60 series, 6061 for
instance. Generally parts for boats are anodized but making a few
spare pulleys will probably "solve" any corrosion problems. By the
way, do not mix aluminum and stainless in salt water environments
unless you insulate them from each other.
Cheers,

Bruce

5052 is also a marine alloy. Used more than 6xxx series. Both are very
low
copper. the 60xx is harder. Most of the river jetboats are 5052, with
some
of the bottoms having 6000 series in critical contact areas. but I would
just bore the pulleys and add a bearing hub. A new Delran, or a roller
bearing, or a bronze bushing.


So would I but he did ask about "aluminum".
Cheers,

Bruce

I was replying to the guy who stated Marine Aluminum Alloy was 6000
series. 5052 is very much a marine alloy. My 1991 Aluminum river jetboat
is made of the stuff and still is in fine shape. Only corrosion hole in
the bottom (3/16 thick) was in the anchor locker where a copper wire had
fallen into the muck that forms around the limber hole.

Custom aluminum working boats made in this part of the country usually are
made of 5052 for the hull, with 6061 used for ribs and joining angles, etc.

--
Ed Huntress

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 12:27:57 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"BruceinBangkok" wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 23:09:42 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 10:13:30 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Bob La Londe wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in
them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys.
On
one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the
pulleys
have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to
pop
off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around)
would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but
still
be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Re-bore the nylon pulleys and install bronze bushings.

Yup, or just make some brass pulleys. They're small.


I knew an old boat builder and lobster fisherman in Maine that used
flat chain as steering "cables". He had a few of the small iron
pulleys that you use on porch awnings to guide it. I asked him why not
proper plastic coated cables and good pulleys and he told me that the
chain and cast iron pulleys were cheaper and he just replaced them
every couple of years. Said it was a lot cheaper then the fancy
plastic coated cable and bronze blocks.

Besides the plastic on the cables comes apart after a while anyway
depending
on the climate.

For small outboards single control cable rack and pinion steering, for
medium size dual cable, and for big ones go hydraulic. If lubed properly
the direct cable steering willl last the life of the boat. NOT pulley
cable
with spring block like the mentioned party was using for his chain.
Still
cheap is cheap.

The trolling motors I repaired pulleys on some years ago, Motorguide
and MinnKota, did not have plastic on the cables.

Different topic... they were talking about the big motor. Lots of older
boats used a clothesline style pulley system to between the steering motor
and the big motor. It was basically a pull/pull system around the boat
under the gunnels with one or two spring loaded pulleys to maintain tension.
Then there was a take up drum on the back of the steering wheel.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Bob La Londe wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On
one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys
have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop
off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still
be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

Re-bore the nylon pulleys and install bronze bushings.

I thought of that too. One of the things I was also considering with the
aluminum ones is to cut the cable grooves deeper.

"Don Foreman" wrote in message

The trolling motors I repaired pulleys on some years ago, Motorguide
and MinnKota, did not have plastic on the cables.

Different topic... they were talking about the big motor. Lots of older
boats used a clothesline style pulley system to go between the steering
wheel and the big motor. It was basically a pull/pull system around the
boat under the gunnels with one or two spring loaded pulleys to maintain
tension. Then there was a take up drum on the back of the steering wheel.

Wow, Talk about a brain fart. That should have read,

Different topic... they were talking about the big motor. Lots of older
boats used a clothesline style pulley system to go between the steering
wheel and the big motor. It was basically a pull/pull system around the
boat under the gunnels with one or two spring loaded pulleys to maintain
tension. Then there was a take up drum on the back of the steering wheel.

Bob La Londe wrote:

My foot control trolling motors have little plastic/nylon pulleys in them
The steering cables come out of the foot pedal over these pulleys. On one
of my controls that is several years old the axle holes in the pulleys have
worn and they wobble on the shaft. This causes steering cables to pop off.
I was wondering how well 5052 aluminum (I have some laying around) would
work as replacements. Would it wear slower than the plastic, but still be
enough softer than the cables and the axles to not cause damage?

What are the shafts made out of? That'll make some difference in the
selection of compatible materials.

--
Paul Hovnanian
------------------------------------------------------------------
"The beauty of a chainsaw is that you don't have to start it. Just
show up with it." - Joe Walsh, on checking in to hotels