Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade? (USA
only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a small
motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google and only
found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since it's right
against the commutator and impossible to get anything behind it.

WKW wrote:

Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade? (USA
only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a small
motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google and only
found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since it's right
against the commutator and impossible to get anything behind it.

Can you dremel tool though it?

Wes

WKW writes:

Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade? (USA
only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a small
motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google and only
found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since it's right

Dremel cutoff wheel?

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

One decent method is to cut it with a 1/8 cut-off wheel in a die grinder.
Cut about 90% thru in 2 places, and if the heat hasn't loosened it, a chisel
in line with the shaft will split it.
Just mask off the electrics from the sparks.

"WKW" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade?
(USA
only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a small
motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google and only
found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since it's right
against the commutator and impossible to get anything behind it.

I do not know of a source for the blades but I do not think that is the
easiest way to remove the race.

A small bearing splitter would probably hold on the groove enough to pull
it. Sometimes a copper tubing flaring tool will clamp tightly enough to do
something like that, especially if you fill the groove with a suitable wire.
You can also just grind it thru in one or 2 places, being careful to not
grind into the shaft. Sometimes a hard hammer blow will crack and loosen it.
Arc welding on such a race will generally loosen it.

Don Young

On 2008-12-03, WKW wrote:
Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade? (USA
only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a small
motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google and only
found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since it's right
against the commutator and impossible to get anything behind it.

Hmm ... do you have a Dremel or something similar? Use one (or
several to get the job finished) of the brown abrasive discs to cut two
grooves into the inner race parallel to the shaft axis and 180 degrees
apart. They don't have to go all the way down to the shaft -- just
perhaps 3/4 of the way.

Then put a cold chisel in the start of the groove and hit it
with a solid hammer (wear safety glasses, because the parts will
probably fly.

The grooves probably won't go all the way to the commutator, but
they should not need to -- you will have started a stress concentration
zone, and once you hit it with the hammer you will supply the stress and
induce failure in the bearing race.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 03 Dec 2008 17:53:44 -0600, WKW wrote:

Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade? (USA
only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a small
motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google and only
found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since it's right
against the commutator and impossible to get anything behind it.
I used a cut off disk in a dremel to get a groove on two sides, then
inserted a screw driver blade and popped it apart.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Not diamond, but round hacksaw blades encrusted with carbide are easy to
find. Ought to cut hardened steel, since it will cut a Coke bottle.

On Dec 4, 1:40*pm, "Leo Lichtman" wrote:
Not diamond, but round hacksaw blades encrusted with carbide are easy to
find. *Ought to cut hardened steel, since it will cut a Coke bottle.

Yup, Remington rod saws, used to be a staple at the former local True
Value. Dremel cutting disks are cheaper, though.

Stan

wrote in news:76b1dbe1-2290-436b-afd1-9743b05f01f3
@f40g2000pri.googlegroups.com:

On Dec 4, 1:40*pm, "Leo Lichtman" wrote:
Not diamond, but round hacksaw blades encrusted with carbide are easy to
find. *Ought to cut hardened steel, since it will cut a Coke bottle.

Yup, Remington rod saws, used to be a staple at the former local True
Value. Dremel cutting disks are cheaper, though.

Stan


Thanks for all those tips. I had no trouble at all finding those carbide
grit edge hacksaw blades and rods on the web. I just bought 12 blades for
$12 on eBay. (Under $1.50 each with shipping) I have a Sears dremel type
tool also, but I haven't been able to find the discs I had. And those
things break so easily I'm going to try the hacksaw first.

Wade

"WKW" wrote in message
...
wrote in news:76b1dbe1-2290-436b-afd1-9743b05f01f3
@f40g2000pri.googlegroups.com:

On Dec 4, 1:40 pm, "Leo Lichtman" wrote:
Not diamond, but round hacksaw blades encrusted with carbide are easy to
find. Ought to cut hardened steel, since it will cut a Coke bottle.

Yup, Remington rod saws, used to be a staple at the former local True
Value. Dremel cutting disks are cheaper, though.

Stan


Thanks for all those tips. I had no trouble at all finding those carbide
grit edge hacksaw blades and rods on the web. I just bought 12 blades for
$12 on eBay. (Under $1.50 each with shipping) I have a Sears dremel type
tool also, but I haven't been able to find the discs I had. And those
things break so easily I'm going to try the hacksaw first.

Wade

Here are the reinforced cut off wheels I use. I buy them from my local
Menards store. It doesn't pay to buy the ones without the fiberglass
reinforcement, they break like glass.
http://www.tylertool.com/dremel13.html
Steve

"Up North" wrote in message
...

"WKW" wrote in message
...
wrote in news:76b1dbe1-2290-436b-afd1-9743b05f01f3
@f40g2000pri.googlegroups.com:

On Dec 4, 1:40 pm, "Leo Lichtman" wrote:
Not diamond, but round hacksaw blades encrusted with carbide are easy
to
find. Ought to cut hardened steel, since it will cut a Coke bottle.

Yup, Remington rod saws, used to be a staple at the former local True
Value. Dremel cutting disks are cheaper, though.

Stan


Thanks for all those tips. I had no trouble at all finding those carbide
grit edge hacksaw blades and rods on the web. I just bought 12 blades for
$12 on eBay. (Under $1.50 each with shipping) I have a Sears dremel type
tool also, but I haven't been able to find the discs I had. And those
things break so easily I'm going to try the hacksaw first.

Wade

Here are the reinforced cut off wheels I use. I buy them from my local
Menards store. It doesn't pay to buy the ones without the fiberglass
reinforcement, they break like glass.
http://www.tylertool.com/dremel13.html
Steve

These are a lot cheaper
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_?u...426B&x=10&y=20

On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 07:11:54 -0600, "Up North"
wrote:

Here are the reinforced cut off wheels I use. I buy them from my local
Menards store. It doesn't pay to buy the ones without the fiberglass
reinforcement, they break like glass.
http://www.tylertool.com/dremel13.html
Steve

FWIW, if you soak those non-reinforced disks in a few drops of thin CA
glue (hobby super glue) and let them dry thoroughly, they hold
together much better.

Best -- Terry

"Terry" wrote: FWIW, if you soak those non-reinforced disks in a few drops
of thin CA
glue (hobby super glue) and let them dry thoroughly, they hold
together much better.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Thanks, Terry. That sounds like a great idea. BTW, would CA glue also
strengthen the reinforced disks?

It might not be a big issue with such small cutting disks as the ones being
discussed, but doesn't CA glue give off nasty fumes when it's heated?

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 07:11:54 -0600, "Up North"
wrote:

Here are the reinforced cut off wheels I use. I buy them from my local
Menards store. It doesn't pay to buy the ones without the fiberglass
reinforcement, they break like glass.
http://www.tylertool.com/dremel13.html
Steve

FWIW, if you soak those non-reinforced disks in a few drops of thin CA
glue (hobby super glue) and let them dry thoroughly, they hold
together much better.

Best -- Terry

The suggestions to use the tiny abrasive disks with a high speed rotary tool
or Dremel are a good solution.

The fragility of these thin (not reinforced) is an issue, but I rarely have
one break while using them. I like the reinforced disks where it's not as
easy to have a firm grip on the tool near the nosepiece, but the thin disks
perform very well if the user doesn't try to steer them, let the disk grab
in the cut or let the direction of the rotation feed (pull) the disk.

I can almost guarantee a high disk failure rate (that the fragile cutting
disks will fail) if the workpiece is held in one hand and the grinder/tool
is held in the other hand.
But when the workpiece is held securely in a stationary vise/holder and the
tool is held securely, the fragile disks perform very well and are a cost
effective solution to making small cuts.

When the cutting direction is opposite the direction that the disk would
travel if allowed to, the disks' fragility isn't a big problem.

BTW, there are diamond dust coated steel disks in the same size range as the
small, thin cutoff disks that aren't fragile, and will cut/notch/grind
various hard materials.
An expensive diamond abrasive wheel shouldn't be used at high speeds on
steel, but a $.80-.90 disk doesn't usually fall into that category (for most
of us, anyway).

I got a blister pack from HF that included an arbor with a 1/8" shank and 4
or 5 diamond disks that only cost $4-$5 with an order of other stuff. I
don't use them frequently, but I think I'm still using the first one removed
from the pack.

These small power tools aren't impressive to look at, but when I encounter a
fuctup fastener in a close location (where a torch or an air chisel aren't
appropriate - junkyard work), the small tool is extremely worthwhile.

I've got a few old rotary tools that were made in the 1930-40s (0-1/8" and
also 1/4" shank models) that still perform nearly as well as when they were
new, and still perform the tasks that they were intended to.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"WKW" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade?
(USA
only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a small
motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google and only
found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since it's right
against the commutator and impossible to get anything behind it.

On Fri, 5 Dec 2008 09:32:07 -0800, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"Terry" wrote: FWIW, if you soak those non-reinforced disks in a few drops
of thin CA
glue (hobby super glue) and let them dry thoroughly, they hold
together much better.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Thanks, Terry. That sounds like a great idea. BTW, would CA glue also
strengthen the reinforced disks?

Probably would, but I've never had one of those break. They just wear
down.

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 03:35:58 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

It might not be a big issue with such small cutting disks as the ones being
discussed, but doesn't CA glue give off nasty fumes when it's heated?

Hadn't noticed it myself... though it sure gives off some
eyes-n-nose-burny stuff as it cures. Cutting-disk treatment is best
done outside or in a well-ventilated place.

Best -- Terry

Dad had one - it was round and a spiral. Grit was in the lands of the spiral.
I have no idea where to buy one now - but I'd look into jewelry suppliers.

Martin


WKW wrote:
Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade? (USA
only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a small
motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google and only
found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since it's right
against the commutator and impossible to get anything behind it.

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...
Dad had one - it was round and a spiral. Grit was in the lands of the
spiral.
I have no idea where to buy one now - but I'd look into jewelry suppliers.

Martin


WKW wrote:
Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade?
(USA only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a
small motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google
and only found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since
it's right against the commutator and impossible to get anything behind
it.


there's a stained glass wire saw that uses blades like what you're looking
for.

saw:
http://www.delphiglass.com/glass-tools/ring-saws/omni-2-plus-wire-saw.html
blades:
http://www.delphiglass.com/index.cfm?page=itemView&itemsysid=200090

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts

WKW wrote in
:

Anyone know where to buy a diamond-coated hacksaw or coping saw blade?
(USA only) I need something to cut a stuck bearing inner race off of a
small motor shaft and I'm sure it's hardened steel. I looked on google
and only found Australian listings. A bearing puller is no good since
it's right against the commutator and impossible to get anything
behind it.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31501
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93075
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6988
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6989
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32347

One of these should serve your purposes.