So a friend's Levittown house has a 3" dia. drain in the utility room.

Alas, it's less than useful as the cast iron bell sticks up ~2"
above the floor. So when his waterheater split, his house flooded.

We're looking to cut it off flush so things WILL drain into it,
and installing a drain cover.

What's the best approach to cutting it? An air driven saw with fine
pitch blades, Sylar's finger, a grinder, Goldfinger's Laser....?


ps: We don't know if it's a dry well drain, or goes into the sewer;
but when we pour water down, it does go away... The dehumidifier
drains into it.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

SawsAll.... 110 electric, battery, air, gas.. it dosen't matter....

--.- Dave

"David Lesher" wrote in message
...


So a friend's Levittown house has a 3" dia. drain in the utility room.

Alas, it's less than useful as the cast iron bell sticks up ~2"
above the floor. So when his waterheater split, his house flooded.

We're looking to cut it off flush so things WILL drain into it,
and installing a drain cover.

What's the best approach to cutting it? An air driven saw with fine
pitch blades, Sylar's finger, a grinder, Goldfinger's Laser....?


ps: We don't know if it's a dry well drain, or goes into the sewer;
but when we pour water down, it does go away... The dehumidifier
drains into it.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

David Lesher wrote:

So a friend's Levittown house has a 3" dia. drain in the utility room.

Alas, it's less than useful as the cast iron bell sticks up ~2"
above the floor. So when his waterheater split, his house flooded.

We're looking to cut it off flush so things WILL drain into it,
and installing a drain cover.

What's the best approach to cutting it? An air driven saw with fine
pitch blades, Sylar's finger, a grinder, Goldfinger's Laser....?

ps: We don't know if it's a dry well drain, or goes into the sewer;
but when we pour water down, it does go away... The dehumidifier
drains into it.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

A Sazwall with a long metal cutting blade, getting as close to the floor
as possible. Use an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel and grind it
flush.. fashion a grate as desired.

"David Lesher" wrote in message
...

Alas, it's less than useful as the cast iron bell sticks up ~2"
above the floor. So when his waterheater split, his house flooded.

We're looking to cut it off flush so things WILL drain into it,
and installing a drain cover.

I had the same situation in the shower of my home. The plumber threw up his
arms and said that I needed to bust the concrete out around the pipe. I sent
him off for lunch and got out my Dremel tool with an abrasive cutting disk.
Working from inside the pipe, I had it cut off neatly by the time he returned.
(OK, a small air driven die grinder with a cutting disk would have been faster,
but I didn't have one then.) Then we just dug out a bit of concrete and epoxied
a plastic bell in place to hold the drain cover. Been that way for 25 years
now, so I guess it's going to be OK.

It is amazing the things I have done things with patience and my Dremel tool
over the years.

Vaughn

{SawsAll, Dremel recommendations....}

I'd think it would take dozens of Dremel wheels. I love 'em but on
something this big.....plus I bet the motor would melt. We have an
airdrill that's a little slower but self-cooling.

An airsaw is better than electric SawsAll... it does not overheat.

But what kind of blades do we want for this: 12, 14 teeth/inch,
or the Tungston Carbide ones labeled "course"?



--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

If you don't want to saw or grind it off, just drill several holes, maybe
1/2" dia,, flush with the floor.

On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 22:25:55 GMT, "Vaughn Simon"
wrote:


"David Lesher" wrote in message
...

Alas, it's less than useful as the cast iron bell sticks up ~2"
above the floor. So when his waterheater split, his house flooded.

We're looking to cut it off flush so things WILL drain into it,
and installing a drain cover.

I had the same situation in the shower of my home. The plumber threw up his
arms and said that I needed to bust the concrete out around the pipe. I sent
him off for lunch and got out my Dremel tool with an abrasive cutting disk.
Working from inside the pipe, I had it cut off neatly by the time he returned.
(OK, a small air driven die grinder with a cutting disk would have been faster,
but I didn't have one then.) Then we just dug out a bit of concrete and epoxied
a plastic bell in place to hold the drain cover. Been that way for 25 years
now, so I guess it's going to be OK.

It is amazing the things I have done things with patience and my Dremel tool
over the years.

Vaughn

Previous owner of this house installed a two piece washroom on the
lower level. He tried (without success) to solder a toilet flange on
the stub up through the concrete floor, then every day brought another
bag of concrete mix home and mixed it in place behind his form. Once
he got the platform approximately high enough, he put a couple layers
of foam carpet underlay to try to smooth out the bumps on the surface
before he put down the sheet vinyl. Unfortunately he didn't get the
hole in the right spot so the opening in the flange was half covered.
Once the toilet was installed, it sort of worked. After we moved in,
we noticed that the floor was always damp and smelled bad so
eventually I ripped it all out, including the stub back to the main
drain. I had to modify the flange and elbow below, then silver solder
them together to get the flange down to floor level. Lots of fun! but
it has worked perfectly for over twenty years.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Leo Lichtman" writes:

If you don't want to saw or grind it off, just drill several holes, maybe
1/2" dia,, flush with the floor.

Thought of that, but have a 1" line from the WH pan to drain...

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

"David Lesher" wrote in message
...


So a friend's Levittown house has a 3" dia. drain in the utility room.

Alas, it's less than useful as the cast iron bell sticks up ~2"
above the floor. So when his waterheater split, his house flooded.

We're looking to cut it off flush so things WILL drain into it,
and installing a drain cover.

What's the best approach to cutting it? An air driven saw with fine
pitch blades, Sylar's finger, a grinder, Goldfinger's Laser....?


ps: We don't know if it's a dry well drain, or goes into the sewer;
but when we pour water down, it does go away... The dehumidifier
drains into it.

--


If it is cast iron, just take the angle-grinder, score a line around it, and
break it off with a hammer. These pipe were (originally) cut with a cold
chisel and hammer to score the thing, then finished with hammer taps to
break it through. That's the way it was done long before power equipment
came into use, and hacksaws weren't much good for that pipe, either.

Youngsters !

Us old pharts may not be able to work rings around you young puppies
anymore, but we hold a lot of historical information in the "wetware" that
may make your jobs easier.......

Flash

On Oct 21, 5:36*pm, David Lesher wrote:
So a friend's Levittown house has a 3" dia. drain in the utility room.

Alas, it's less than useful as the cast iron bell sticks up ~2"
above the floor. So when his waterheater split, his house flooded.

We're looking to cut it off flush so things WILL drain into it,
and installing a drain cover.

What's the best approach to cutting it? An air driven saw with fine
pitch blades, Sylar's finger, a grinder, Goldfinger's Laser....?

ps: We don't know if it's a dry well drain, or goes into the sewer;
but when we pour water down, it does go away... The dehumidifier
drains into it.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

hell all you need to do is drill a few holes in it at floor level

On Oct 21, 5:36*pm, David Lesher wrote:
So a friend's Levittown house has a 3" dia. drain in the utility room.

Alas, it's less than useful as the cast iron bell sticks up ~2"
above the floor. So when his waterheater split, his house flooded.

We're looking to cut it off flush so things WILL drain into it,
and installing a drain cover.

What's the best approach to cutting it? An air driven saw with fine
pitch blades, Sylar's finger, a grinder, Goldfinger's Laser....?

ps: We don't know if it's a dry well drain, or goes into the sewer;
but when we pour water down, it does go away... The dehumidifier
drains into it.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

Use whatever you have handy. Sawz-All, angle grinder, Dremel tool,
hacksaw. Even a hacksaw blade gripped in a pair of locking pliers.
It's just one pipe - you could have cut it in the time it took you to
ask.

John Martin