Any update on the Continental piston?

On Wed, 1 Oct 2008 18:35:24 -0400, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Any update on the Continental piston?

Still stuck harder than a Stock Brokers heart.

Ive been busy, so havnt had much of a chance to screw with it.

Ill pull the rod caps next, and try to get the crank out from under
the pistons, then pull the engine and take it back to the guy I bought
it from and let him rebuild it.

As a last resort, Ill put a cold chisel to the offending piston, then
bash out the bits

Ill post when I have an update

Gunner

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I have
had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even a month
with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons installed with
..0015 clearance.
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

"Gunner" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 1 Oct 2008 18:35:24 -0400, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Any update on the Continental piston?

Still stuck harder than a Stock Brokers heart.

Ive been busy, so havnt had much of a chance to screw with it.

Ill pull the rod caps next, and try to get the crank out from under
the pistons, then pull the engine and take it back to the guy I bought
it from and let him rebuild it.

As a last resort, Ill put a cold chisel to the offending piston, then
bash out the bits

Ill post when I have an update

Gunner

I still like my hydraulic idea.

On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man"
wrote:

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I have
had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even a month
with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons installed with
.0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings
using a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, the infamous Gunner
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man"
wrote:

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I have
had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even a month
with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons installed with
.0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings
using a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Ditto the Kroil and some Marvel Mystery Oil my Hercules 6 in the
Lincoln 350. I try the starter on occasion, to no avail. I should put
the beast back up on Craigslist today. I'll never get around to fixing
it.

--
Nothing is a waste of time if you use the experience wisely.
-- Rodin

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 03:36:50 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, the infamous Gunner
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man"
wrote:

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I have
had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even a month
with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons installed with
.0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings
using a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Ditto the Kroil and some Marvel Mystery Oil my Hercules 6 in the
Lincoln 350. I try the starter on occasion, to no avail. I should put
the beast back up on Craigslist today. I'll never get around to fixing
it.

I got anything you want in trade?

Might be fun having two gas welders sitting in pieces in my back yard.

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 11:21:26 -0700, the infamous Gunner
scrawled the following:

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 03:36:50 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, the infamous Gunner
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man"
wrote:

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I have
had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even a month
with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons installed with
.0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings
using a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Ditto the Kroil and some Marvel Mystery Oil my Hercules 6 in the
Lincoln 350. I try the starter on occasion, to no avail. I should put
the beast back up on Craigslist today. I'll never get around to fixing
it.

I got anything you want in trade?

Yeah, a mini-mill. One of these would just be swell, Gunner. Thanks!
http://www.mini-lathe.com/KX3_update.htm


Might be fun having two gas welders sitting in pieces in my back yard.

I've had a lot of fun with this one, but it's time for it to go.

--
Nothing is a waste of time if you use the experience wisely.
-- Rodin

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man"
wrote:

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I have
had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even a month
with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons installed with
.0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings
using a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.


Is it worth putting the head back on or drilling/tapping to suit and fitting a
bit of ground/milled/shaped/scraped heavy plate. then completely filling the
cylinder with oil and screwing a threaded rod into the plug hole?... you'll
get the most force for the least localised stress by hydraulicking the piston
rings loose.


Mark Rand
RTFM

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 00:26:58 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, Gunner... wrote:
On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man" ...wrote:
Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I
have had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even
a month with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons
installed with .0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings using
a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Is it worth putting the head back on or drilling/tapping to suit and
fitting a bit of ground/milled/shaped/scraped heavy plate. then
completely filling the cylinder with oil and screwing a threaded rod
into the plug hole?... you'll get the most force for the least localised
stress by hydraulicking the piston rings loose.

IIRC, a while back Gunner said the stuck piston is at BDC and
the engine would have to be detached from the generator before
the oil pan can be taken off and the rod pulled, and unhooking
the engine isn't easy.

--
jiw

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 21:42:55 -0500, James Waldby wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 00:26:58 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, Gunner... wrote:
On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man" ...wrote:
Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I
have had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even
a month with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons
installed with .0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings using
a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Is it worth putting the head back on or drilling/tapping to suit and
fitting a bit of ground/milled/shaped/scraped heavy plate. then
completely filling the cylinder with oil and screwing a threaded rod
into the plug hole?... you'll get the most force for the least localised
stress by hydraulicking the piston rings loose.

IIRC, a while back Gunner said the stuck piston is at BDC and
the engine would have to be detached from the generator before
the oil pan can be taken off and the rod pulled, and unhooking
the engine isn't easy.


Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug


Gunner


"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 21:42:55 -0500, James Waldby wrote:


On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 00:26:58 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, Gunner... wrote:

On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man" ...wrote:

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I
have had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even
a month with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons
installed with .0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings using
a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Is it worth putting the head back on or drilling/tapping to suit and
fitting a bit of ground/milled/shaped/scraped heavy plate. then
completely filling the cylinder with oil and screwing a threaded rod
into the plug hole?... you'll get the most force for the least localised
stress by hydraulicking the piston rings loose.

IIRC, a while back Gunner said the stuck piston is at BDC and
the engine would have to be detached from the generator before
the oil pan can be taken off and the rod pulled, and unhooking
the engine isn't easy.



Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

So why not pick a piston that's not at BDC and pump that one up? Or
pump up 3 or 4 other ones, to equalize the torque on the crankshaft?

Grant

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug


Gunner


"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 05:59:39 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 21:42:55 -0500, James Waldby wrote:


On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 00:26:58 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:

On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, Gunner... wrote:

On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man" ...wrote:

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I
have had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even
a month with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons
installed with .0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings using
a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Is it worth putting the head back on or drilling/tapping to suit and
fitting a bit of ground/milled/shaped/scraped heavy plate. then
completely filling the cylinder with oil and screwing a threaded rod
into the plug hole?... you'll get the most force for the least localised
stress by hydraulicking the piston rings loose.

IIRC, a while back Gunner said the stuck piston is at BDC and
the engine would have to be detached from the generator before
the oil pan can be taken off and the rod pulled, and unhooking
the engine isn't easy.



Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

So why not pick a piston that's not at BDC and pump that one up? Or
pump up 3 or 4 other ones, to equalize the torque on the crankshaft?

Grant

Because Im afraid it would snap the crank



Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug


Gunner


"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 21:42:55 -0500, James Waldby wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 00:26:58 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, Gunner... wrote:
On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man" ...wrote:
Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I
have had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even
a month with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons
installed with .0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings using
a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Is it worth putting the head back on or drilling/tapping to suit and
fitting a bit of ground/milled/shaped/scraped heavy plate. then
completely filling the cylinder with oil and screwing a threaded rod
into the plug hole?... you'll get the most force for the least localised
stress by hydraulicking the piston rings loose.

IIRC, a while back Gunner said the stuck piston is at BDC and
the engine would have to be detached from the generator before
the oil pan can be taken off and the rod pulled, and unhooking
the engine isn't easy.


Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug


Gunner


"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

Gunner
Before you go at it with a hammer and chisel take a drill and poke a series
of holes in the piston. With enough holes you should be able to break up the
piston. Seems it would do less damage to the block.
Steve

On 2008-10-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug

Still not too late to take it to the scrap yard...

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Gunner Asch wrote:
Grant Erwin wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:

Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

So why not pick a piston that's not at BDC and pump that one up? Or
pump up 3 or 4 other ones, to equalize the torque on the crankshaft?

Because Im afraid it would snap the crank

And if not a snapped crankshaft, most certainly a bent one. You're
dealing with some pretty large forces cranks were never designed for.

Captain Obvious here. It just hit me. (OUCH!) Lightbulb time!

Instead of pushing down (that can't work because you are fresh out
of 'down' at the moment), why not try pulling UP? ;-)

"If you can't raise the drawbridge, lower the river."

The same blank-off plate and a nice diffusion vacuum pump? But you
might want a reinforcing rib or two across the back, or you'll bend
that blank-off plate into a new Pop-Art pretzel bowl.

Or some low pressure saturated steam to purge all the air from the
cylinder and a ball valve to stop the flow - When the steam condenses
that creates one hell of a vacuum, too.

But I would get in there and hone the upper cylinder walls and ream
the ridge off first, so you don't cause more damage after it gets
moving - might even be able to reuse the piston with fresh rings if
the beating on it hasn't hurt it.

And unbolt the cap of the con rod and rig something holding it
straight, so the big end doesn't hang up on the edge of the cylinder
wall skirt when it starts moving.

And you might seal up something in there for an end-of-travel
bumper, like a golf ball or a few wine corks, so the piston crown
doesn't meet the block-off plate with any velocity. Would be really
hard on the head bolt threads, unless you put some valve springs as a
buffer between the bolts and the plate.

-- Bruce --

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Gunner Asch wrote:
Grant Erwin wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:

Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

So why not pick a piston that's not at BDC and pump that one up? Or
pump up 3 or 4 other ones, to equalize the torque on the crankshaft?

Because Im afraid it would snap the crank

And if not a snapped crankshaft, most certainly a bent one. You're
dealing with some pretty large forces cranks were never designed for.

Captain Obvious here. It just hit me. (OUCH!) Lightbulb time!

Instead of pushing down (that can't work because you are fresh out
of 'down' at the moment), why not try pulling UP? ;-)

"If you can't raise the drawbridge, lower the river."

The same blank-off plate and a nice diffusion vacuum pump? But you
might want a reinforcing rib or two across the back, or you'll bend
that blank-off plate into a new Pop-Art pretzel bowl.

Or some low pressure saturated steam to purge all the air from the
cylinder and a ball valve to stop the flow - When the steam condenses
that creates one hell of a vacuum, too.

But I would get in there and hone the upper cylinder walls and ream
the ridge off first, so you don't cause more damage after it gets
moving - might even be able to reuse the piston with fresh rings if
the beating on it hasn't hurt it.

And unbolt the cap of the con rod and rig something holding it
straight, so the big end doesn't hang up on the edge of the cylinder
wall skirt when it starts moving.

And you might seal up something in there for an end-of-travel
bumper, like a golf ball or a few wine corks, so the piston crown
doesn't meet the block-off plate with any velocity. Would be really
hard on the head bolt threads, unless you put some valve springs as a
buffer between the bolts and the plate.

-- Bruce --


It's unlikely that the vacum approach will have much effect. by getting a
vacum on the inside of the cyclinder, you will get, at best, about 14.7 PSI
difference between the top and bottom of the piston. If the piston is 'say
4inches in diameter, then the force pushing up on the piston will be 14.7
lb/sq in x 3.14 x 4x4 =738.5 Lbs . This sound big, but a 10 ton press often
won't shift a stuck bearing so I suspect you won't get much results.

On Sat, 4 Oct 2008 16:05:40 -0500, "Up North"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 21:42:55 -0500, James Waldby wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 00:26:58 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:
On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 02:30:45 -0700, Gunner... wrote:
On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man" ...wrote:
Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I
have had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even
a month with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons
installed with .0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings using
a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.

Is it worth putting the head back on or drilling/tapping to suit and
fitting a bit of ground/milled/shaped/scraped heavy plate. then
completely filling the cylinder with oil and screwing a threaded rod
into the plug hole?... you'll get the most force for the least localised
stress by hydraulicking the piston rings loose.

IIRC, a while back Gunner said the stuck piston is at BDC and
the engine would have to be detached from the generator before
the oil pan can be taken off and the rod pulled, and unhooking
the engine isn't easy.


Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug


Gunner


"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

Gunner
Before you go at it with a hammer and chisel take a drill and poke a series
of holes in the piston. With enough holes you should be able to break up the
piston. Seems it would do less damage to the block.
Steve

EXCELLENT idea

Gunner

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 16:12:46 -0500, Ignoramus25005
wrote:

On 2008-10-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug

Still not too late to take it to the scrap yard...


Still not to late to register Republican either.


"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 15:16:15 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
Grant Erwin wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:

Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

So why not pick a piston that's not at BDC and pump that one up? Or
pump up 3 or 4 other ones, to equalize the torque on the crankshaft?

Because Im afraid it would snap the crank

And if not a snapped crankshaft, most certainly a bent one. You're
dealing with some pretty large forces cranks were never designed for.

Captain Obvious here. It just hit me. (OUCH!) Lightbulb time!

Instead of pushing down (that can't work because you are fresh out
of 'down' at the moment), why not try pulling UP? ;-)

"If you can't raise the drawbridge, lower the river."

The same blank-off plate and a nice diffusion vacuum pump? But you
might want a reinforcing rib or two across the back, or you'll bend
that blank-off plate into a new Pop-Art pretzel bowl.

Or some low pressure saturated steam to purge all the air from the
cylinder and a ball valve to stop the flow - When the steam condenses
that creates one hell of a vacuum, too.

But I would get in there and hone the upper cylinder walls and ream
the ridge off first, so you don't cause more damage after it gets
moving - might even be able to reuse the piston with fresh rings if
the beating on it hasn't hurt it.

And unbolt the cap of the con rod and rig something holding it
straight, so the big end doesn't hang up on the edge of the cylinder
wall skirt when it starts moving.

And you might seal up something in there for an end-of-travel
bumper, like a golf ball or a few wine corks, so the piston crown
doesn't meet the block-off plate with any velocity. Would be really
hard on the head bolt threads, unless you put some valve springs as a
buffer between the bolts and the plate.

-- Bruce --


Ive bashed on the backside of the piston from the bottom.. Somehow I
dont think 14 psi is gonna do much good with a 3" piston

Gunner

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 15:16:15 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:



Instead of pushing down (that can't work because you are fresh out
of 'down' at the moment), why not try pulling UP? ;-)


Trouble is, he could only get 14.7 psi on the piston that way, then you run
out of vacuum!

It would be perfectly reasonable to apply enough torque on the crankshaft to
give 250psi on the piston, since it will see more than that in real use (WOT).
But how do you calculate that? I'd go for a couple of times rated engine
torque on the spanner before worrying about the rods. But presumably Gunner's
already done that and failed or he wouldn't still have a stuck piston.

I guess the moral is that before putting an engine to bed for a few
weeks/months/years/decades you should pour some oil down the plug holes and
bar the engine over a couple of times. Even if you are only going to flog it
to Gunner in a decade or so.


Mark Rand
RTFM

"Up North" wrote:

Before you go at it with a hammer and chisel take a drill and poke a series
of holes in the piston. With enough holes you should be able to break up the
piston. Seems it would do less damage to the block.

Drill two holes and use a long sawsall blade on a sawsall.

Wes

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 16:12:46 -0500, Ignoramus25005
wrote:
On 2008-10-04, Gunner Asch wrote:

Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug

Still not too late to take it to the scrap yard...

But you don't understand - it's Personal. It's mocking him.

Gunner's smarter than any hunk of iron ever made, he's gonna fix
that sumb**ch if it kills him - and at this rate it just might... ;-)

Never give up, NEVER give up... That ship!

-- Bruce --

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 20:56:15 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 16:12:46 -0500, Ignoramus25005
wrote:
On 2008-10-04, Gunner Asch wrote:

Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug

Still not too late to take it to the scrap yard...

But you don't understand - it's Personal. It's mocking him.

Gunner's smarter than any hunk of iron ever made, he's gonna fix
that sumb**ch if it kills him - and at this rate it just might... ;-)

Never give up, NEVER give up... That ship!

-- Bruce --


Correct. There is about as much chance of me giving up as there is of
Iggy voting for someone who is not a Marxist/Socialist buffoon.

It probably brings back memories of the Soviet Union and he feels
homesick

Gunner

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich

Wes wrote:


Before you go at it with a hammer and chisel take a drill and poke a series
of holes in the piston. With enough holes you should be able to break up the
piston. Seems it would do less damage to the block.

Drill two holes and use a long sawsall blade on a sawsall.


Maybe we should forget that one. Piston pin likely is very close to cylinder wall.

But he could cut it close to skirt if carefull.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On 2008-10-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 20:56:15 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 16:12:46 -0500, Ignoramus25005
wrote:
On 2008-10-04, Gunner Asch wrote:

Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug

Still not too late to take it to the scrap yard...

But you don't understand - it's Personal. It's mocking him.

Gunner's smarter than any hunk of iron ever made, he's gonna fix
that sumb**ch if it kills him - and at this rate it just might... ;-)

Never give up, NEVER give up... That ship!



Correct. There is about as much chance of me giving up as there is of
Iggy voting for someone who is not a Marxist/Socialist buffoon.

It probably brings back memories of the Soviet Union and he feels
homesick

I actually voted for Bush once.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

I about drove myself nuts onetime trying to hammer out a piston from a RD350
engine.

Took a lot of hammering to figure out that the cylinders block was floating
on the crankcase.

Once I bolted it back down with spacers instead of the head, I was able to
maul the pistons out.

Mark

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 06:19:00 -0700, "Stupendous Man"
wrote:

Having taken apart many engines that have sat for 70 years or longer, I
have
had good success with Coca-Cola. Sometimes it takes a week or even a month
with Knight type sleeve valve engines that have iron pistons installed
with
.0015 clearance.

Its got a half can of Kroil sitting in it, with periodic bashings
using a 1x1 and a hammer, around the edges of the piston.






----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
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On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 20:56:15 -0700, the infamous Bruce L. Bergman
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 16:12:46 -0500, Ignoramus25005
wrote:
On 2008-10-04, Gunner Asch wrote:

Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug

Still not too late to take it to the scrap yard...

But you don't understand - it's Personal. It's mocking him.

Gunner's smarter than any hunk of iron ever made, he's gonna fix
that sumb**ch if it kills him - and at this rate it just might... ;-)

Never give up, NEVER give up... That ship!

That's right, Bruce. Also, one should never underestimate the innate
animosity of inanimate objects.

..-.
Life is short. Eat dessert first!
---
http://www.diversify.com NoteSHADES(tm) laptop privacy/glare guards

On Sun, 05 Oct 2008 08:54:56 -0500, the infamous Ignoramus8122
scrawled the following:

On 2008-10-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 20:56:15 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

Correct. There is about as much chance of me giving up as there is of
Iggy voting for someone who is not a Marxist/Socialist buffoon.

It probably brings back memories of the Soviet Union and he feels
homesick

I actually voted for Bush once.

That's the finest proof of Gunner's accusation I've ever seen.

--
"Given the low level of competence among politicians,
every American should become a Libertarian."
-- Charley Reese, Alameda Times-Star (California), June 17, 2003

On Sun, 05 Oct 2008 08:54:56 -0500, Ignoramus8122
wrote:

On 2008-10-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 20:56:15 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2008 16:12:46 -0500, Ignoramus25005
wrote:
On 2008-10-04, Gunner Asch wrote:

Indeed. If It were off the bottom even a little bit, Id do as Tom
Gardner suggested, bolt on a plate with a grease zerk in it, and pump
it up until something came un****ed.

Ive got the pan off, but there is no way to move that particular
piston to get the crank out from under the rod.

When I get some time...Im going to stick a rosebud down in the
cylinder and heat the **** out of everything, then bash it some more.
If that doesnt work..out comes the cold chisel and the BFH. Maybe I
can at least save the rod. Shrug

Still not too late to take it to the scrap yard...

But you don't understand - it's Personal. It's mocking him.

Gunner's smarter than any hunk of iron ever made, he's gonna fix
that sumb**ch if it kills him - and at this rate it just might... ;-)

Never give up, NEVER give up... That ship!



Correct. There is about as much chance of me giving up as there is of
Iggy voting for someone who is not a Marxist/Socialist buffoon.

It probably brings back memories of the Soviet Union and he feels
homesick

I actually voted for Bush once.


I know..I read the Intervention reports about your attempted suicide
after you realized what you had done.

G

Gunner

"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies
and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich