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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
Still machining a part for my cement mixer. Needed to build up a 10" long
shaft back to 3/4 inch diameter. Thought I would put it in the lathe (1947± LeBlond Regal 13"), run a few beads over the necked down area with the MIG and then turn it down to size. I just need to build up about a two inch length near each end. Anyway, did the above, turned on the lathe and it doesn't work. I have real 3-phase running the lathe, and a separate 240 volt circuit for the MIG. After a lot of sleuthing I found that one of the legs of the 3 phase had shorted to ground. The short was in the 6 foot long flex between the lathe and the 3-phase fused disconnect box. I figured that maybe I had crammed too many wires (3-# 12's plus a bare ground) into the 1/2" flex and things got too hot. It has served me for over 12 years. Replaced it all with a 3/4" flex using #10 gauge (3 each plus ground). This time, while using the MIG, I heard popping even before turning on the lathe. The 3/4" flex was warm and the wires melted therein. Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the hell is going on. Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. All explanations appreciated. Get to make up another feed for the old machine. Ivan Vegvary |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the hell is going on. Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. If there was a path that got into your lathes power wiring, I would be very concerned about the head stock bearings. I'm not up to noodling out what may have happened at this time of night. Wes |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
The "ground" on some machines is not connected to earth ground
directly. I suspect your MIG has one side of the transformer output connected to earth ground. Then it goes thru the rectifier. Thus the "Ground" clamp is fluctuating above and below earth ground by 15 volts or so, with full current available. Check it with a voltmeter, "ground" clamp to earth ground, and gun to earth ground. I don't understand your three phase wiring. If all three power legs were disconnected, (Assuming the lathe was off.) I can see no way to melt a disconnected wire. Dave J. On Sep 9, 4:04*pm, "Ivan Vegvary" wrote: Still machining a part for my cement mixer. *Needed to build up a 10" long shaft back to 3/4 inch diameter. *Thought I would put it in the lathe (1947± LeBlond Regal 13"), run a few beads over the necked down area with the MIG and then turn it down to size. *I just need to build up about a two inch length near each end. *Anyway, did the above, turned on the lathe and it doesn't work. *I have real 3-phase running the lathe, and a separate 240 volt circuit for the MIG. After a lot of sleuthing I found that one of the legs of the 3 phase had shorted to ground. *The short was in the 6 foot long flex between the lathe and the 3-phase fused disconnect box. *I figured that maybe I had crammed too many wires (3-# 12's plus a bare ground) into the 1/2" flex and things got too hot. *It has served me for over 12 years. *Replaced it all with a 3/4" flex using #10 gauge (3 each plus ground). *This time, while using the MIG, I heard popping even before turning on the lathe. *The 3/4" flex was warm and the wires melted therein. Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the *hell is going on. *Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. *My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. *BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. All explanations appreciated. *Get to make up another feed for the old machine. Ivan Vegvary |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
I don't have the answer for the wiring failures, except that the wiring
isn't properly protected (for the gage/ampacity limits) to prevent them from heating up. Fuses should blow, or circuit breakers should trip open before the wiring has a chance to heat up. Some meter testing between the two machines will show that there is a significant voltage potential difference (possibly dangerous or fatal) between them. Have an electrician analyze the situation, in case there is a lethal fault, and avoid it as you would a potentially dangerous electrical circuit. You shouldn't get yourself into a situation where you could make body contact with any two machines where one is 3-phase, and the other is single phase until the wiring system is checked by a qualified, experienced electrician. The quickest solution would be to use a separate electrically isolated motor to drive the lathe spindle, making sure that there is no electrical path between the drive motor and the lathe. This method would require a belt or insulated coupler between the motor output shaft and the lathe spindle. No power applied to the lathe, the additional motor (slow gearhead or belt/jackshaft speed reduction) is driving the dead lathe as if it's just a fixture. The reason for the electrical isolation would be to prevent any current path thru the spindle bearings or other damage. I would be sceptical of the ground clamp slipping on the workpiece shaft to provide an adequate ground path, but it may work. I'm fairly certain that others have tried it, and maybe you'll hear from them. I've contemplated fabricating a welding fixture with a variable speed spindle for quite some time, and I can't imagine how desperate I'd have to be to need to use a lathe as a welding fixture, but it's your machine. It should be very clear that the existing setup that was tried at your location would very likely destroy a VFD or possibly other electronic devices, including the welder electronic circuitry. WB .......... metalworking projects www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html "Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message news:iiDxk.913$393.595@trnddc05... Still machining a part for my cement mixer. Needed to build up a 10" long shaft back to 3/4 inch diameter. Thought I would put it in the lathe (1947± LeBlond Regal 13"), run a few beads over the necked down area with the MIG and then turn it down to size. I just need to build up about a two inch length near each end. Anyway, did the above, turned on the lathe and it doesn't work. I have real 3-phase running the lathe, and a separate 240 volt circuit for the MIG. After a lot of sleuthing I found that one of the legs of the 3 phase had shorted to ground. The short was in the 6 foot long flex between the lathe and the 3-phase fused disconnect box. I figured that maybe I had crammed too many wires (3-# 12's plus a bare ground) into the 1/2" flex and things got too hot. It has served me for over 12 years. Replaced it all with a 3/4" flex using #10 gauge (3 each plus ground). This time, while using the MIG, I heard popping even before turning on the lathe. The 3/4" flex was warm and the wires melted therein. Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the hell is going on. Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. All explanations appreciated. Get to make up another feed for the old machine. Ivan Vegvary |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message news:iiDxk.913$393.595@trnddc05... Still machining a part for my cement mixer. Needed to build up a 10" long shaft back to 3/4 inch diameter. Thought I would put it in the lathe (1947± LeBlond Regal 13"), run a few beads over the necked down area with the MIG and then turn it down to size. I just need to build up about a two inch length near each end. Anyway, did the above, turned on the lathe and it doesn't work. I have real 3-phase running the lathe, and a separate 240 volt circuit for the MIG. After a lot of sleuthing I found that one of the legs of the 3 phase had shorted to ground. The short was in the 6 foot long flex between the lathe and the 3-phase fused disconnect box. I figured that maybe I had crammed too many wires (3-# 12's plus a bare ground) into the 1/2" flex and things got too hot. It has served me for over 12 years. Replaced it all with a 3/4" flex using #10 gauge (3 each plus ground). This time, while using the MIG, I heard popping even before turning on the lathe. The 3/4" flex was warm and the wires melted therein. Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the hell is going on. Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. All explanations appreciated. Get to make up another feed for the old machine. Ivan Vegvary Here is a clarification to some of you who have replied. My three phase goes from the main panel to a fused disconnect box. From the disconnect box it went via metal flex to the drum switch on the lathe. The drum switch has three terminals and functions as OFF, FORWARD and REVERSE. It feeds the old GE low hp (maybe 2-3 horses) motor. The motor in turn drives the spindle through matched belts. I too cannot understand how a lathe, turned off at the drum switch could fry the feed wire between the fused disconnect box and the motor. UNLESS, the drum switch is bad and not all three legs are being shut on and off. Ivan Vegvary |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
UNLESS, the
drum switch is bad and not all three legs are being shut on and off. Ivan Vegvary It is common here to only switch 2 of the 3 legs & leave one directly connected. MikeB |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
I suspect the armor cable.
Since it is on the floor (very likely) and might have been mashed a little - the internal wires might be conducting through the internal sharp edges. It might not be all of the time, just when it is pushed back to sweep or ... I'd take the wires from the fuse box to the lathe out of the cover and inspect for holes or melted copper. If the wires are good (before pulling - attach a nylon string to pull back replacements (good idea anyway) or the original. There might be pin holes punched through the insulation because the inductance of the motor and back e-m-f that exceeds the insulation. e.g. using 600v wire on a 480 system with 2or 3x emf spiking. You might still have a faulty switch - but I bet the wire in the metal cover. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ivan Vegvary wrote: "Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message news:iiDxk.913$393.595@trnddc05... Still machining a part for my cement mixer. Needed to build up a 10" long shaft back to 3/4 inch diameter. Thought I would put it in the lathe (1947± LeBlond Regal 13"), run a few beads over the necked down area with the MIG and then turn it down to size. I just need to build up about a two inch length near each end. Anyway, did the above, turned on the lathe and it doesn't work. I have real 3-phase running the lathe, and a separate 240 volt circuit for the MIG. After a lot of sleuthing I found that one of the legs of the 3 phase had shorted to ground. The short was in the 6 foot long flex between the lathe and the 3-phase fused disconnect box. I figured that maybe I had crammed too many wires (3-# 12's plus a bare ground) into the 1/2" flex and things got too hot. It has served me for over 12 years. Replaced it all with a 3/4" flex using #10 gauge (3 each plus ground). This time, while using the MIG, I heard popping even before turning on the lathe. The 3/4" flex was warm and the wires melted therein. Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the hell is going on. Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. All explanations appreciated. Get to make up another feed for the old machine. Ivan Vegvary Here is a clarification to some of you who have replied. My three phase goes from the main panel to a fused disconnect box. From the disconnect box it went via metal flex to the drum switch on the lathe. The drum switch has three terminals and functions as OFF, FORWARD and REVERSE. It feeds the old GE low hp (maybe 2-3 horses) motor. The motor in turn drives the spindle through matched belts. I too cannot understand how a lathe, turned off at the drum switch could fry the feed wire between the fused disconnect box and the motor. UNLESS, the drum switch is bad and not all three legs are being shut on and off. Ivan Vegvary ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Here is a clarification to some of you who have replied. My three phase goes from the main panel to a fused disconnect box. From the disconnect box it went via metal flex to the drum switch on the lathe. The drum switch has three terminals and functions as OFF, FORWARD and REVERSE. It feeds the old GE low hp (maybe 2-3 horses) motor. The motor in turn drives the spindle through matched belts. I too cannot understand how a lathe, turned off at the drum switch could fry the feed wire between the fused disconnect box and the motor. UNLESS, the drum switch is bad and not all three legs are being shut on and off. Your flex-conduit has a spiral metal sheath that acts as the safety ground, or at least a back-up safety ground. If that is your only safety ground, it probably is high resistance. Your "hot" wires likely were not "in circuit", but the safety ground is always connected. My guess is welding current ran through the flex-conduit to the panel and back to the welder, something that REALLY shouldn't happen! It sounds like the current ran through your spindle bearings, too, which is really bad news. I'd check the quality of the entire welder ground cable, it may be worn out or loose anywhere from the ground clip to where it attaches to the welder. I can't imagine any other way this could have happened if the ground cable on the welder was OK. Jon |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the �hell is going on. �Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. �My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. �BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. All explanations appreciated. �Get to make up another feed for the old machine. Ivan Vegvary Ivan I think you mentioned your problem in the part of your query about "creating" a current in your lathe feed wires. Check your grounding paths. Don't use or rely upon any ground circuits using any part of the flex. Period. And from your explanation of your "220" you don't have a conventional 3 phase source. What you have is sometimes called a wild phase or wild ground. This is OK under some circumstances but certainly not with mixed use as you have with a welder and a lathe. GFI protection would be prudent here also. A solution is to have your power company or source upgrade your 3 phase so that each leg is the same voltage from ground. A separate ground from the transformer is also provided to the user that the is used as a source or safety connection for the neutral and the ground rod you have installed. As it is two of your legs are 110 from the center tap of one of the windings in the transfromer. This used to be done to provide both 110 and 220, single and 3 phase, to the customer, you, to keep costs low. For both the consumer and power company. Now days true 3 phase is provided and a transformer is used to provide 110 and 220 single phase from 2 phases of the transformer. There are also several other schemes to do this. Another important thing to do is to upgrade your wiring so there is no chance of the wiring in the flex giving problems. Don't under any circumstances allow any possibilty of the flex to be part of your grounding. Use a fitting to isolate the flex from becoming a part of a ground loop. Remember flex is a mechanical item used to isolate vibration and provide some mechanical protection from among other things foot traffic. There are non-metal flex conduits available for many circumstances. Hope I said all this correctly at the middle of the night. Bob AZ |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message news:iiDxk.913$393.595@trnddc05... Still machining a part for my cement mixer. Needed to build up a 10" long shaft back to 3/4 inch diameter. Thought I would put it in the lathe (1947± LeBlond Regal 13"), run a few beads over the necked down area with the MIG and then turn it down to size. I just need to build up about a two inch length near each end. Anyway, did the above, turned on the lathe and it doesn't work. I have real 3-phase running the lathe, and a separate 240 volt circuit for the MIG. After a lot of sleuthing I found that one of the legs of the 3 phase had shorted to ground. The short was in the 6 foot long flex between the lathe and the 3-phase fused disconnect box. I figured that maybe I had crammed too many wires (3-# 12's plus a bare ground) into the 1/2" flex and things got too hot. It has served me for over 12 years. Replaced it all with a 3/4" flex using #10 gauge (3 each plus ground). This time, while using the MIG, I heard popping even before turning on the lathe. The 3/4" flex was warm and the wires melted therein. Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the hell is going on. Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. All explanations appreciated. Get to make up another feed for the old machine. Ivan Vegvary I think I diagnosed the problem. (Partially) The wires running through the flex conduit (3-#10's and one bare copper ground) are always hot. One of the three wires (white in my case) carries the higher voltage of the three phase. The lathe is well grounded through the bare copper wire. When I am welding (stupid thing I will never do again) I must be inducing a high current which returns through the bare ground wire. This bare wire heats up and melts the insulation on the adjacent high leg (white). The two melt together, and yes, I do blow the cartridge fuse on that leg only. This scenario happened identically both times (ground and hot leg melted together within the flex). The thing that I cannot figure out is why the current from the welding wire (MIG) would choose to go to ground (from part being welded, to chuck, to spindle bearings OUCH, to lathe frame, to electrical bare ground wire) instead of the welding clamp a mere 2 inches away. Only somebody familiar with MIG circuitry could explain that to me. Thanks, Ivan Vegvary |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
I think I diagnosed the problem. (Partially) The wires running through the flex conduit (3-#10's and one bare copper ground) are always hot. One of the three wires (white in my case) carries the higher voltage of the three phase. The lathe is well grounded through the bare copper wire. When I am welding (stupid thing I will never do again) I must be inducing a high current which returns through the bare ground wire. This bare wire heats up and melts the insulation on the adjacent high leg (white). The two melt together, and yes, I do blow the cartridge fuse on that leg only. OK, this is exactly as I had thought. But, there has to be something about your welder making that "ground" cable not be ground. It doesn't make much sense, but if the ground cable is truly grounded to the welding machine, and is in good condition, then there should be only small leakage to other grounded stuff such as the lathe. Maybe, however, even "small" leakage, relative to the full welding current, is enough to really heat up some #10 wire. This scenario happened identically both times (ground and hot leg melted together within the flex). The thing that I cannot figure out is why the current from the welding wire (MIG) would choose to go to ground (from part being welded, to chuck, to spindle bearings OUCH, to lathe frame, to electrical bare ground wire) instead of the welding clamp a mere 2 inches away. Only somebody familiar with MIG circuitry could explain that to me. Well, only three possibilities. One, the "ground" terminal on the welder is NOT connected to frame ground, but has some kind of circuits between the cable and ground. Seems really odd, all welders I've used really had the ground terminal grounded. For safely reasons, it really needs to be so. Two, the welder itself is wired improperly, and the welder frame is not grounded. I'd think you (or your next of kin) would know about this one by now. But, since this has come up, it really seems like something that should be checked. Three, the ground cable is shot, or maybe just loose. If there's no other path, it works well enough to weld. If there IS another path, the welding current divides. Jon |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
had wiring smoke on my 9x20 lathe a few years back....
motor smoked ...switch went.... $175 later for the parts/repair i feel your pain xman |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
Current flows in the least resistive path. It might have been your belt buckle
to your sweaty body... caution! The chuck had a hard grip on the metal...roller bearings have wide surface... The clamp might not have the surface contact that you think. Perhaps only points contacted and the chuck was lower than the points. Your return on the MIG is likely not a number 10 or better. If so, perhaps the wires in the clamp are broken or just points on the clamp. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ivan Vegvary wrote: "Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message news:iiDxk.913$393.595@trnddc05... Still machining a part for my cement mixer. Needed to build up a 10" long shaft back to 3/4 inch diameter. Thought I would put it in the lathe (1947± LeBlond Regal 13"), run a few beads over the necked down area with the MIG and then turn it down to size. I just need to build up about a two inch length near each end. Anyway, did the above, turned on the lathe and it doesn't work. I have real 3-phase running the lathe, and a separate 240 volt circuit for the MIG. After a lot of sleuthing I found that one of the legs of the 3 phase had shorted to ground. The short was in the 6 foot long flex between the lathe and the 3-phase fused disconnect box. I figured that maybe I had crammed too many wires (3-# 12's plus a bare ground) into the 1/2" flex and things got too hot. It has served me for over 12 years. Replaced it all with a 3/4" flex using #10 gauge (3 each plus ground). This time, while using the MIG, I heard popping even before turning on the lathe. The 3/4" flex was warm and the wires melted therein. Okay, I'm smart enough that I won't be using my lathe as a welding fixture. BUT, what the hell is going on. Why would I create current in the lathe feed wires. My ground clamp for the MIG was on the shaft within 2" of the weld. BTW, both times it was the 'high' wire of the 3 phases that melted. Two of the wires carry 120 volts to ground each, and the third wire carries more. All explanations appreciated. Get to make up another feed for the old machine. Ivan Vegvary I think I diagnosed the problem. (Partially) The wires running through the flex conduit (3-#10's and one bare copper ground) are always hot. One of the three wires (white in my case) carries the higher voltage of the three phase. The lathe is well grounded through the bare copper wire. When I am welding (stupid thing I will never do again) I must be inducing a high current which returns through the bare ground wire. This bare wire heats up and melts the insulation on the adjacent high leg (white). The two melt together, and yes, I do blow the cartridge fuse on that leg only. This scenario happened identically both times (ground and hot leg melted together within the flex). The thing that I cannot figure out is why the current from the welding wire (MIG) would choose to go to ground (from part being welded, to chuck, to spindle bearings OUCH, to lathe frame, to electrical bare ground wire) instead of the welding clamp a mere 2 inches away. Only somebody familiar with MIG circuitry could explain that to me. Thanks, Ivan Vegvary ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
See my response, #3.
Dave J. I think I diagnosed the problem. *(Partially) The wires running through the flex conduit (3-#10's and one bare copper ground) are always hot. *One of the three wires (white in my case) carries the higher voltage of the three phase. *The lathe is well grounded through the bare copper wire. *When I am welding (stupid thing I will never do again) I must be inducing a high current which returns through the bare ground wire. *This bare wire heats up and melts the insulation on the adjacent high leg (white). *The two melt together, and yes, I do blow the cartridge fuse on that leg only. This scenario happened identically both times (ground and hot leg melted together within the flex). *The thing that I cannot figure out is why the current from the welding wire (MIG) would choose to go to ground (from part being welded, to chuck, to spindle bearings OUCH, to lathe frame, to electrical bare ground wire) instead of the welding clamp a mere 2 inches away. *Only somebody familiar with MIG circuitry could explain that to me. Thanks, Ivan Vegvary |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Blew lathe wiring, TWICE
A) How did you clamp the MIG ground to a rotating shaft? B) CYA #1: Connect all the metal frames in your shop with a separate ground strap to a known ground. If fuses blow, you just saved your life. C) How can you have a white whire as a hot? That's evil, at least. [This is in the US?] D) CYA #2: Can you clamp the piece so it's insulated from the chuck? That will solve the issue, but when the MIG won't work, you'll need to fix its ground cable. E) I too fear for your lathe's bearing... -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
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