Norcold, about 12-13 years old.

Was working well, then RV was moved.

Now, freezer works, fridge does not. Stays slightly cool,
50F or so, as the freezer seems to be absorbing some of the
heat.

??

thanks

gary

wrote in message
...
Norcold, about 12-13 years old.

Was working well, then RV was moved.

Now, freezer works, fridge does not. Stays slightly cool,
50F or so, as the freezer seems to be absorbing some of the
heat.

??

thanks

gary


If its a 12V/Gas/110V? Take it out, turn it upside down for a few days, put
it back in and see if it works. If it does, let me know and I'll send you an
invoice for a callout fee. If it does n't work it probably needs a re-gas.

wrote in news:ajn984l63l5f1r1uadv0bv2ed4f89fgrud@
4ax.com:

Norcold, about 12-13 years old.

Was working well, then RV was moved.

Now, freezer works, fridge does not. Stays slightly cool,
50F or so, as the freezer seems to be absorbing some of the
heat.

??

thanks

gary




Check the temperature control - not the thermostat - which sets/limits the
airflow from the freezer section to the fridge section.

The move may have jostled the deflector plate loose.

Try adjusting the fridge temperature setting and listen for a
grinding/clanking sound.

On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 13:24:10 -0600, wrote:

Norcold, about 12-13 years old.

Was working well, then RV was moved.

Now, freezer works, fridge does not. Stays slightly cool,
50F or so, as the freezer seems to be absorbing some of the
heat.

All adsorption refrigerators have to be somewhat close to level to
run properly, or the ammonia and water don't separate and flow and
recombine at the different levels the way they are supposed to. Side
to side more important than front to back.

The newer refrigerators have designs that tolerate off-camber
operation much better - Old ones can be downright persnickety.

Google up a diagram of how they work - it's one of those 'Bumblebees
can't fly! - Good thing nobody ever told the Bumblebees...' type of
impossible possibilities.

Sometimes the sealed system develops a pinhole and leaks out just
enough of the water and ammonia mix to stop working. All the big
makers can exchange the sealed system cartridge for a nominal fee.

But before starting, look at the condition of the rest of the unit
first. If the gas burner is rusting out, the electric heater is shot,
and someone has beaten on the thermostat with a rock to make it work
in the past, sometimes you're better off to scrap it and get a new
one. See that part about off-camber operations above.

(Yes, I realize this is r.c.m where people answer to Don Quixote and
see these things as a challenge, but you have to pick your battles.)

When you take the cooling cartridge out and replace it, use fresh
Permagum sealing putty cord, and the cork and asphalt insulating tape
as needed, so the cold stays on the inside and the hot on the outside
- it's available at any good refrigeration house.

-- Bruce --

On Jul 22, 1:04*am, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

* Google up a diagram of how they work - it's one of those 'Bumblebees
can't fly! - Good thing nobody ever told the Bumblebees...' type of
impossible possibilities.

The Bumblebee comment came from a biology grad student in the early
30's who had previously studied a little aerodynamics.

Here's an explanation of absorption refrigeration I posted in 1998
.
"There is or was a demo of this device in the Museum of Science in
Boston. It was a squarish loop of copper pipe with an inner branch
connecting the uprights, making a distorted figure 8, mounted through
a
plexiglass wall with a gas burner heating the back. There was very
obviously nothing there except the flame heating a loop of pipe, yet
the
part outside the plexi was covered with frost."

"It works on the same principal as a medical cold pack, or salt
melting
the ice on the road. There are some pairs of substances that readily
dissolve in each other even though the process absorbs instead of
releases energy. The reaction runs "backwards", just as water
evaporates, dissolves in the air, and floats up to become a cloud
instead of staying in the ocean where gravity wants it to be."

"The tube contains a salt water or ammonia/water solution. Table salt
will work but there are better choices, such as lithium chloride or
bromide. The flame boils water (or ammonia) out of the solution. The
bubbly mix of steam and concentrated solution rises up a tube to the
tee, where the liquid runs down the branch and the vapor continues
over
the top of the loop. Both need to be cooled to near room temperature
by
fins, a fan, etc while kept apart."

"On the cold side the separated vapor recombines with the liquid,
absorbing heat and thus cooling the pipe. The bottom of the cold side
empties into the bottom of the boiler, below the flame so the hot
liquid
can't travel back into the cold side. This is an example of the
thermosiphon described in recent posts, with the addition of extra
pumping height due to the lightweight froth in the top of the boiler."

J. Wilkins
KB1DAL