From " Continuing lathe chatter (from people now, not the lathe)"
posted 4 June 2008 by Joe Gwinn:

Mine may not be truly equivalent, since mine has three belts
applying stress to the side of the shaft. But I get what feels like
a
3:1 or perhaps 4:1 ratio of starting force vs moving force. It
pegged
the force gage which I was able to find -- at about 1.5 KG applied at
a
point 3.125" from the center (on a chuck jaw at the OD of a 6-1/4"
chuck.)

Ah! That sounds exactly how it now feels like when turning the
spindle
by hand. It sounds like I did not over-tighten it.

O.K. Note that when I had the spindle out to change belts, I
tightened it until it fit the manual's spin test. But after using it a
while, it developed chatter. I had to go back, overtighten the collar
on the back, and then loosen it and re-tighten it after I had set the
bearings properly. :-)

Hmm. I may have to do much the same, as the spindle bearing was
probably too loose for years, and may need to re-adjust to its new
circumstances.

Perhaps -- but I think that I simply didn't pre-tighten over the
spin test point, when I should have. A bit of use pushed the bearings
deeper into their mounts.

I perhaps may see the same effect. The bearings in my 5914 may well
have walked a tad out of their mounts, and will now walk right back,
under pressure.

This does seem to be happening, and rather quickly at that. It has
become noticeably easier to turn the spindle by hand. I don't plan to
do any adjusting just yet, instead waiting to see how much it will
loosen by itself.

Joe Gwinn

On 2008-07-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
From " Continuing lathe chatter (from people now, not the lathe)"
posted 4 June 2008 by Joe Gwinn:

[ ... ]

Perhaps -- but I think that I simply didn't pre-tighten over the
spin test point, when I should have. A bit of use pushed the bearings
deeper into their mounts.

I perhaps may see the same effect. The bearings in my 5914 may well
have walked a tad out of their mounts, and will now walk right back,
under pressure.

This does seem to be happening, and rather quickly at that. It has
become noticeably easier to turn the spindle by hand. I don't plan to
do any adjusting just yet, instead waiting to see how much it will
loosen by itself.

O.K. I wound up the second time over-tightening it, and then
loosening it until it spun the proper amount.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2008-07-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
From " Continuing lathe chatter (from people now, not the lathe)"
posted 4 June 2008 by Joe Gwinn:

[ ... ]

Perhaps -- but I think that I simply didn't pre-tighten over the
spin test point, when I should have. A bit of use pushed the bearings
deeper into their mounts.

I perhaps may see the same effect. The bearings in my 5914 may well
have walked a tad out of their mounts, and will now walk right back,
under pressure.

This does seem to be happening, and rather quickly at that. It has
become noticeably easier to turn the spindle by hand. I don't plan to
do any adjusting just yet, instead waiting to see how much it will
loosen by itself.

O.K. I wound up the second time over-tightening it, and then
loosening it until it spun the proper amount.

I will no doubt do much the same, as I learn how much is correct.

I now have a radial-pin spanner wrench that fits and is large enough, so
precise adjustment should be easier. But not until it settles a bit
more.

Joe Gwinn

Joseph Gwinn wrote:

This does seem to be happening, and rather quickly at that. It has
become noticeably easier to turn the spindle by hand. I don't plan to
do any adjusting just yet, instead waiting to see how much it will
loosen by itself.

As a data point, I was playing with a way to drive my lathe to turn my sheave bushings and
the moglice coated shafts.

I made this:

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/spindle_driver.jpg

My 14.4 volt cordless drill spun up the 10" chuck effortlessly, I doubt it could have
handled turning or boring loads. The big surprise was when I turned off that drill. It
has a brake, it works. Damn near took my wrist off.

It fits in the spindle bore, uses a rubber soft plug to grip, and the aluminum part was
outside bored to size on my bridgeport.

Uncle's ancient 1/2" corded drill will be used to power the turning operation. It has no
brake and will need a rope over the trusses to support it. Uncle is getting old.

Sorry to hijack but it is a Clausing thread

Wes

On 2008-07-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... loose spindle bearings ... ]

O.K. I wound up the second time over-tightening it, and then
loosening it until it spun the proper amount.

I will no doubt do much the same, as I learn how much is correct.

I did pretty well by feel on that the first try.

I now have a radial-pin spanner wrench that fits and is large enough, so
precise adjustment should be easier. But not until it settles a bit
more.

Oh -- you didn't have the pin spanner before? You could turn a
piece of stock bored large enough to slip over the ring and then drill
it for a pin which you could slip in. Or you could press fit the pin,
and then saw out about 270 degrees worth of the ring. :-)

I was lucky to be able to pick up a proper pin spanner at one of
the for-sale tables at the local metalworking club meetings.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2008-07-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... loose spindle bearings ... ]

O.K. I wound up the second time over-tightening it, and then
loosening it until it spun the proper amount.

I will no doubt do much the same, as I learn how much is correct.

I did pretty well by feel on that the first try.

I now have a radial-pin spanner wrench that fits and is large enough, so
precise adjustment should be easier. But not until it settles a bit
more.

Oh -- you didn't have the pin spanner before? You could turn a
piece of stock bored large enough to slip over the ring and then drill
it for a pin which you could slip in. Or you could press fit the pin,
and then saw out about 270 degrees worth of the ring. :-)

I did consider making a spanner, but decided to get an Armstrong wrench
with swinging arm, that will handle a range of sizes.


I was lucky to be able to pick up a proper pin spanner at one of
the for-sale tables at the local metalworking club meetings.

I have a large collection of random pin spanners, but none fit well, and
the ones that did fit were too small and weak.

Now that I bought a wrench, the perfect one will came along for $0.50.

Joe Gwinn