http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...LE_CUTTER.html

Pricey little bugger (about $60 in 'plumbing' sizes)

Dave

wrote:



http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...LE_CUTTER.html

Pricey little bugger (about $60 in 'plumbing' sizes)

Dave


Neat. I wonder how two teeth would improve it?

Nice lathe project.

Wes

wrote:



http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...LE_CUTTER.html

Pricey little bugger (about $60 in 'plumbing' sizes)


Just noticed that you said carbide in subject. That sixty buck item is using HSS. We can
do better in our garage shops.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Jun 11, 6:47 pm, Wes wrote:
wrote:

http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...WOOD_HOLE_CUTT...

Pricey little bugger (about $60 in 'plumbing' sizes)

Just noticed that you said carbide in subject. That sixty buck item is using HSS. We can
do better in our garage shops.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller


I was already improving on what they had- what's the point of copying
without improvement? ;-)


Dave

On Jun 11, 5:11 pm, Wes wrote:
wrote:

http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...WOOD_HOLE_CUTT...

Pricey little bugger (about $60 in 'plumbing' sizes)

Dave

Neat. I wonder how two teeth would improve it?

Nice lathe project.

Wes



Bosch has a 4-tooth:

http://www.boschquickchange.com/quic...duct_line.html

Dave

On Jun 11, 5:11*pm, Wes wrote:
wrote:

http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...WOOD_HOLE_CUTT...

Pricey little bugger (about $60 in 'plumbing' sizes)

Dave

Neat. *I wonder how two teeth would improve it? * * * *

It wouldn't necessarily improve it. The one-tooth jobs are just
wonderful for when you're crawling around in a bug-infested crawlspace
and there's only room for a little, low-torque hand drill to run the
pipe through the joists.

When the wood is wet it's a simply HUGE impediment to have a bunch of
teeth on the hole saw.

The single-tooth hole saw compared to a typical shop hole saw is sort
of like the moral superior of a spade or even better an auger drill
bit over a twist drill bit. The factors that matter in the shop aren't
the same factors when you're hunched over in the crawlspace trying to
run that goddamn pipe through the joist :-).

Tim Shoppa wrote:

It wouldn't necessarily improve it. The one-tooth jobs are just
wonderful for when you're crawling around in a bug-infested crawlspace
and there's only room for a little, low-torque hand drill to run the
pipe through the joists.

When the wood is wet it's a simply HUGE impediment to have a bunch of
teeth on the hole saw.


I noticed that my brother, a master electrician, uses auger bits to drill joists and walls
with an electric drill. No spade drills for him and likely for a good reason.

Like cutting metal, punching holes in wood likely has a bit of trade secrets to it.

Wes

The auger bits have thread pull points. They are high helix as well.

I have a nice one I once gave to dad.

I had a Satellite installer here a few months ago and he used a spade (flat
one) into the side of my metal building. It worked nicely. Odd I thought.

And think of a beam - a flat drill would never get through.

The Auger is just better than a brace and bit. I have a 3' extension for deep
or hard to reach places for holes.

I thought I had several braces but can only find my good one. If I had another,
I'd likely give it and one of the big auger sets to the local Zoo. Don't want
to use a winning drill in the big cat area.

Martin


Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Wes wrote:
Tim Shoppa wrote:

It wouldn't necessarily improve it. The one-tooth jobs are just
wonderful for when you're crawling around in a bug-infested crawlspace
and there's only room for a little, low-torque hand drill to run the
pipe through the joists.

When the wood is wet it's a simply HUGE impediment to have a bunch of
teeth on the hole saw.


I noticed that my brother, a master electrician, uses auger bits to drill joists and walls
with an electric drill. No spade drills for him and likely for a good reason.

Like cutting metal, punching holes in wood likely has a bit of trade secrets to it.

Wes


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On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 23:04:26 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:

The auger bits have thread pull points. They are high helix as well.
snip

I've used bits very similar to this design:

http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...ORING_BIT.html

You can get the best of both worlds with these, self-feed
and less bind-up in already drilled material. A bit of
"English" in the direction the hole is going can be made
with spade bits too. Not possible with full length auger
style.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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