I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl

On Mar 30, 8:05 pm, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.

Karl

If you aint got anything else, then sump oil will do the job.

Andrew VK3BFA.

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 05:05:38 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl


Best be beating a path to your County Extension office

Used motor oil works well enough for wood preservative, least for a
while.

ethelyne glycol and sodium borate are the base components of most wood
preservatives. If you scrounge up something commercial...be aware
that most have bug killers in them.

Not a good idea to be housing your bees on skids treated with bug
killer......

Then of course..there is creosote.....

Gunner



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Mar 30, 6:05*am, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away
...
Karl

Pallets last a long time if they are blocked up off the ground on
treated wood or landscaping timbers.

The replacement for Penta is "No 10 Green Perservative" by Cuprinol. 22%
copper Napthanate. Nasty stuff. About as nasty as penta. $18 a gallon.
Brush on heavily or dip the ends. Did I mention it's really nasty?

Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 05:29:30 -0700 (PDT), with neither quill nor
qualm, Jim Wilkins quickly quoth:

On Mar 30, 6:05*am, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away
...
Karl

Pallets last a long time if they are blocked up off the ground on
treated wood or landscaping timbers.

Um, treated wood or landscaping timber SKIDS, Jim?

--
Change is the process by which the future invades our lives.
-- Alvin Toffler

Karl Townsend wrote:

I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.

Karl

Presumably this is just the ground contact base that the pre-fab hive
boxes will sit on. Use the plastic lumber like Trex or similar. It
should be non toxic to your new bees and survive ground contact just
fine. It's not considered structural generally, but your intended use
should be well within it's capabilities. It also cuts and works just
fine with normal woodworking tools.

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 05:05:38 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl

Bee's are a real hot item these days. My SIL and daughter both
have started hives in the last year, for their own use.
Thieves are targeting hives . There were quite
a few hives left up here (MT) for the winter presumably for health
reasons. I haven't heard the results.

The local lumber yards have all sorts of treated lumber available,
the local post yard has a treating plant too. CCA at a rate (5%?)
for for direct contact would be my choice. ED

ED wrote:

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 05:05:38 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl

Bee's are a real hot item these days. My SIL and daughter both
have started hives in the last year, for their own use.
Thieves are targeting hives . There were quite
a few hives left up here (MT) for the winter presumably for health
reasons. I haven't heard the results.

The local lumber yards have all sorts of treated lumber available,
the local post yard has a treating plant too. CCA at a rate (5%?)
for for direct contact would be my choice. ED

I guess you haven't been paying attention the last few years. CCA no
longer exists, replaced by ACQ which eats fasteners for breakfast.

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 05:05:38 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:


Then of course..there is creosote.....

Gunner


Can you even get creosote?

I haven't seen anything better yet.

Tom

On Mar 30, 10:07*am, Larry Jaques
wrot:
Jim Wilkins
"Karl Townsend"
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away
...
Karl

Pallets last a long time if they are blocked up off the ground on
treated wood or landscaping timbers.

Um, treated wood or landscaping timber SKIDS, Jim? *

So bevel the ends. I have a skid made of pallets on railroad ties that
I dragged into place with a tractor.

I haven't had a problem with hot-dipped hardware in ACQ wood, even on
the ends of my woodpiles where the pallets and treated wood bracing
get wet. Electro-galvanized lag screws rust badly in a few years,
though.

Jim Wilkins

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 16:24:46 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:



I guess you haven't been paying attention the last few years. CCA no
longer exists, replaced by ACQ which eats fasteners for breakfast.


Actually I use quite a lot of CCA treated products on a semi regular
basis. $30K's+ last year . 1.5 miles of split 3 rail fence all CCA
treated. Will do close to that again this year..

CCA treated lumber is to be sold for industrial, commercial and
agricultural use only. Only if final use is non-residential ie not for
decks, porches ect.

Be aware some cows died after eating grass that grew where some
CCA treated posts ends had been burned.. it was the arsenic in the
treat that killed em. Do not burn CCA treated lumber..

I have yet use the
ACQ which I read specs ceramic coated fastners or some such.
ED

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore. I
need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl




The best that we have used is "Woodlife" for brush blocks used as shoe cleaners
on golf courses and other wet applications. They last for years!
http://www.wolman.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=13

-Good **** Maynard!

nwith normal woodworking tools.

Or use a wood like cedar which doesn't rot.

Says he who has never replaced 75 cedar 4x4's bedded in cement. Our clay
soil holds water like a sponge. Cedar rots out in a matter of years.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

Or use a wood like cedar which doesn't rot.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

Well, actually cedar does rot. Just not as readily as some of the other
species.
42

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 12:43:06 -0400, "Tom M"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 05:05:38 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:


Then of course..there is creosote.....

Gunner


Can you even get creosote?

I haven't seen anything better yet.

Tom

http://www.environmentwriter.org/res...s/creosote.htm
http://www.wood-protection.org/homeowners.asp


www.CrowleyChemical.com

Gunner



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 17:39:45 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
tanews.com...
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore. I
need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl




The best that we have used is "Woodlife" for brush blocks used as shoe cleaners
on golf courses and other wet applications. They last for years!
http://www.wolman.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=13

-Good **** Maynard!

You make boot cleaning brushes that one can bolt down to the deck?

Hummm...time for me to check your website again.....

Gunner



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

ED wrote:


snippage

I have yet use the
ACQ which I read specs ceramic coated fastners or some such.

Ceramic, stainless, triple galvanized, etc. Simpson has good info on
dealing with the ACQ stuff on their site.

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 09:47:14 -0700 (PDT), with neither quill nor
qualm, Jim Wilkins quickly quoth:

On Mar 30, 10:07*am, Larry Jaques
wrot:
Jim Wilkins
"Karl Townsend"
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away
...
Karl

Pallets last a long time if they are blocked up off the ground on
treated wood or landscaping timbers.

Um, treated wood or landscaping timber SKIDS, Jim? *

So bevel the ends. I have a skid made of pallets on railroad ties that
I dragged into place with a tractor.

sigh I keyed on the fact that you referred to buying what he said he
wanted to build. Never mind.


I haven't had a problem with hot-dipped hardware in ACQ wood, even on
the ends of my woodpiles where the pallets and treated wood bracing
get wet. Electro-galvanized lag screws rust badly in a few years,
though.

Yeah, they should be triple dipped if galv is used. I need to go
review a couple projects from last year where I used the Simpson galv
plates in direct contact with ACQ lumber.

I now have a stock of the properly finished screws for ACQ use.

--
Books are the compasses and telescopes and sextants and charts which other
men have prepared to help us navigate the dangerous seas of human life.
--Jesse Lee Bennett

In article ,
"Pete C." wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:

I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.

Karl

Presumably this is just the ground contact base that the pre-fab hive
boxes will sit on. Use the plastic lumber like Trex or similar. It
should be non toxic to your new bees and survive ground contact just
fine. It's not considered structural generally, but your intended use
should be well within it's capabilities. It also cuts and works just
fine with normal woodworking tools.

Or use a wood like cedar which doesn't rot.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 17:39:45 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Tom
Gardner" quickly quoth:

The best that we have used is "Woodlife" for brush blocks used as shoe cleaners
on golf courses and other wet applications. They last for years!
http://www.wolman.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=13

-Good **** Maynard!

I like Wolman products/wood, but want to note that Woodlife is an
anti-fungal agent, not a termiticide. It'll kill the teensy bugs but
not the bigger, toothier models.

--
Books are the compasses and telescopes and sextants and charts which other
men have prepared to help us navigate the dangerous seas of human life.
--Jesse Lee Bennett

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 05:29:30 -0700, Jim Wilkins wrote:

On Mar 30, 6:05Â*am, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They
will be made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice
for them to not rot out right away
...
Karl

Pallets last a long time if they are blocked up off the ground on
treated wood or landscaping timbers.

Or put strips of plastic on the undersides of the pinewood skids.
I've seen spiral-cut long pieces from plastic barrels used on
sled runners.

It always amazes me, the sheer number of people who don't read the
original message. Karl said he has the material, he does not want
to go buy different material. He did not directly ask, but would
seem interested in product(s) that could be applied to extend the
life of what he does have, so those recommendations are on topic.

Karl, if you can prop your framework up on some cement blocks or
similar to keep them out of the dirt and allow them to dry between
rains, it will help a lot. Use enough blocks so things don't sag
between bearing points. Paint will help, but requires recoating
and maintenance. Coating with emulsified tar isn't bad.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside.
They will be made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would
be nice for them to not rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood
preservative? Should I have the wood painted - I have a large
supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent
bees anymore. I need to learn here. Any help, especially on
varroa mite control, would be appreciated.


Karl

The best that we have used is "Woodlife" for brush blocks used as shoe
cleaners on golf courses and other wet applications. They last for years!
http://www.wolman.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=13

-Good **** Maynard!


Thanks, I'll get some. then paint over it with solvent paint

Karl

On Mar 30, 4:13*pm, "DanG" wrote:
It always amazes me, the sheer number of people who don't read the
original message. *Karl said he has the material, he does not want
to go buy different material. *He did not directly ask, but would
seem interested in product(s) that could be applied to extend the
life of what he does have, so those recommendations are on topic.

I read it, don't have a good direct answer, and suggested a different
free material, pallets.
Old motor oil hasn't worked for me. It doesn't soak in very far and
the wood rots from within.
In fact, several pieces of CCA-treated wood that were under my
woodpiles for several years have deteriorated. They look like hundreds
of bugs each took out a bite before dying.

If I want a small piece of wood such as a pulley wheel to last
outdoors, I boil it in paraffin wax. The heat drives out the water,
then the wax soaks in deep as it cools. That might be practical for
the feet of your beehive supports.

My wax heater is a small pot with an electric element built into the
bottom. There's a definite fire hazard using an open flame or possibly
even a hotplate.

Jim Wilkins

nick hull wrote:

Or use a wood like cedar which doesn't rot.

Or black locust. Fence posts last about 50 yrs.
...lew...

DanG wrote:

It always amazes me, the sheer number of people who don't read the
original message.

Aint that the truth. :-)
...lew...

On Mar 30, 1:39*pm, "Tom Gardner" wrote:
...
The best that we have used is "Woodlife" for brush blocks used as shoe cleaners
on golf courses and other wet applications. *They last for years!http://www.wolman.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=13

Did you try Thompson's Waterseal, and if so was it any good?
I got a deal on several dented cans. The treated wood looks fine but 2
years isn't much of a test.

Jim Wilkins

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 16:44:40 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hartswick quickly quoth:

DanG wrote:

It always amazes me, the sheer number of people who don't read the
original message.

Aint that the truth. :-)

Was that a question, Lew?

--
Books are the compasses and telescopes and sextants and charts which other
men have prepared to help us navigate the dangerous seas of human life.
--Jesse Lee Bennett

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 17:39:45 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
ctanews.com...
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I
need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl




The best that we have used is "Woodlife" for brush blocks used as shoe
cleaners
on golf courses and other wet applications. They last for years!
http://www.wolman.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=13

-Good **** Maynard!

You make boot cleaning brushes that one can bolt down to the deck?

Hummm...time for me to check your website again.....

Gunner

Most golf courses make their own frame like: "_|__|_ " (end view) from 2x8 and
pinned to the ground. The brushes we would make get screwed in the bottom and
sides of the uprights. The brushes are standard 7" long by 2-1/2" wide with
stainless steel wire. We would soak the brushes in Woodlife for a few days.
They would last until the wire wore out, sometimes for years.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Mar 30, 1:39 pm, "Tom Gardner" wrote:
....
The best that we have used is "Woodlife" for brush blocks used as shoe
cleaners
on golf courses and other wet applications. They last for
years!http://www.wolman.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=13

Did you try Thompson's Waterseal, and if so was it any good?
I got a deal on several dented cans. The treated wood looks fine but 2
years isn't much of a test.

Jim Wilkins

Someone once told me that Thompson's is just paraffin dissolved in a solvent.
It hasn't performed for me very well over the years in the applications I have
used it for.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 16:44:40 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hartswick quickly quoth:

DanG wrote:

It always amazes me, the sheer number of people who don't read the
original message.

Aint that the truth. :-)

Was that a question, Lew?


I didn't read it that way...it's something about something else.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 03:47:44 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Tom
Gardner" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 16:44:40 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hartswick quickly quoth:

DanG wrote:

It always amazes me, the sheer number of people who don't read the
original message.

Aint that the truth. :-)

Was that a question, Lew?


I didn't read it that way...it's something about something else.

Hayseuss Crisco! It went over your head, too? Actually, it was a
double entendre. First, he asked a question and ended it with a
period, not a question mark. Second, it pointed out the irony of the
masses. Too many people hear what they want to hear respond to the
questions in themselves rather than reading the question and answering
it for the OP.

You've got to get out more, Tawm.

--
Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.

I see my attempt at jocularity fell short, I was being vague in the mater of
perception of the obvious.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varroa_destructor

There is a hyperlink on that page for control... Since it is a food stuff,
some things won't work out of our heads.

That looked like the page to read Karl.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to construct three special skids that will sit outside. They will be
made of plain old pine wood I have on hand. It would be nice for them to not
rot out right away

My supply of penta has run out. Any replacements for a wood preservative?
Should I have the wood painted - I have a large supply of barn paint.

P.S, very reluctantly, I have become a beekeeper. I can't rent bees anymore.
I need to learn here. Any help, especially on varroa mite control, would be
appreciated.


Karl





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http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
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On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 16:30:40 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Tom
Gardner" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 03:47:44 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Tom
Gardner" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 16:44:40 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hartswick quickly quoth:

DanG wrote:

It always amazes me, the sheer number of people who don't read the
original message.

Aint that the truth. :-)

Was that a question, Lew?


I didn't read it that way...it's something about something else.

Hayseuss Crisco! It went over your head, too? Actually, it was a
double entendre. First, he asked a question and ended it with a
period, not a question mark. Second, it pointed out the irony of the
masses. Too many people hear what they want to hear respond to the
questions in themselves rather than reading the question and answering
it for the OP.

You've got to get out more, Tawm.

--
Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.

I see my attempt at jocularity fell short,

See? You shouldn't have bought it at Wally World.


I was being vague in the mater of perception of the obvious.

Bbbut, isn't that what you always do, Tawm?

--
Books are the compasses and telescopes and sextants and charts which other
men have prepared to help us navigate the dangerous seas of human life.
--Jesse Lee Bennett