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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Why does a trailer need a dovetail?
I'm thinking about getting an open trailer for general hobby use
(hauling steel tubes, dimensional lumber, an occasional machine, and an occasional car). I'm thinking tandem axle, electric brakes on both axles, 18' long, and 7000 to 10000 pound GVWR. I've seen many of these with a slanted dovetail on the rear-most 4 feet. I understand this dovetail combined with 2 short length ramps make it easier to load a low clearance vehicle. But I don't understand why a flat bed and 2 long ramps wouldn't do the same job. Do long ramps bend easily? Are they uneconomical in terms of cost and weight compared to a dovetail? While they might be good for loading a car, I don't see them helping if I'm carrying long tubes or wood. Also, I've considered an enclosed trailer but have yet to see any with strong tie-downs that would be appropriate for tying down a machine. And they sure are expensive. |
#2
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Why does a trailer need a dovetail?
When I said "while they might be good for loading a car", I meant the
dovetail. On Feb 17, 12:43 am, Albert wrote: I'm thinking about getting an open trailer for general hobby use (hauling steel tubes, dimensional lumber, an occasional machine, and an occasional car). I'm thinking tandem axle, electric brakes on both axles, 18' long, and 7000 to 10000 pound GVWR. I've seen many of these with a slanted dovetail on the rear-most 4 feet. I understand this dovetail combined with 2 short length ramps make it easier to load a low clearance vehicle. But I don't understand why a flat bed and 2 long ramps wouldn't do the same job. Do long ramps bend easily? Are they uneconomical in terms of cost and weight compared to a dovetail? While they might be good for loading a car, I don't see them helping if I'm carrying long tubes or wood. Also, I've considered an enclosed trailer but have yet to see any with strong tie-downs that would be appropriate for tying down a machine. And they sure are expensive. |
#3
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Why does a trailer need a dovetail?
On Feb 16, 10:43 pm, Albert wrote:
I'm thinking about getting an open trailer for general hobby use (hauling steel tubes, dimensional lumber, an occasional machine, and an occasional car). I'm thinking tandem axle, electric brakes on both axles, 18' long, and 7000 to 10000 pound GVWR. I've seen many of these with a slanted dovetail on the rear-most 4 feet. I understand this dovetail combined with 2 short length ramps make it easier to load a low clearance vehicle. But I don't understand why a flat bed and 2 long ramps wouldn't do the same job. Do long ramps bend easily? Are they uneconomical in terms of cost and weight compared to a dovetail? While they might be good for loading a car, I don't see them helping if I'm carrying long tubes or wood. Also, I've considered an enclosed trailer but have yet to see any with strong tie-downs that would be appropriate for tying down a machine. And they sure are expensive. In my experience, the dove tail, in combination with a tilt bed will allow loading without any ramps. Paul |
#4
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Why does a trailer need a dovetail?
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#5
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Why does a trailer need a dovetail?
Around here it is usually referred to as a beaver tail rather than dove
tail but same thing. If you mostly do vehicles, you will like the beaver tail, much easier to load. Most vehicles have some sort of rear overhang, you need the trailer there to attach tie downs but level is not important. If you mostly haul steel or lumber, the beaver tail is a pain. You need to support the ends of the steel/lumber, you can't load pallets on the back end. We load a race car with full ground effects fairings on the front and 3" of ground clearance in the middle onto a flat trailer. I have to pick a good spot to load it, set up long ramps, then add some strategic 2x10's and assorted blocks to get up 18" in the air. Sounds like you want the flat version, just bring along some extra planks for low slung cars. Hint: put a 5' long plank with a 2x block under the ground end of the ramp, makes it a lot easier. Albert wrote: I'm thinking about getting an open trailer for general hobby use (hauling steel tubes, dimensional lumber, an occasional machine, and an occasional car). I'm thinking tandem axle, electric brakes on both axles, 18' long, and 7000 to 10000 pound GVWR. I've seen many of these with a slanted dovetail on the rear-most 4 feet. I understand this dovetail combined with 2 short length ramps make it easier to load a low clearance vehicle. But I don't understand why a flat bed and 2 long ramps wouldn't do the same job. Do long ramps bend easily? Are they uneconomical in terms of cost and weight compared to a dovetail? While they might be good for loading a car, I don't see them helping if I'm carrying long tubes or wood. Also, I've considered an enclosed trailer but have yet to see any with strong tie-downs that would be appropriate for tying down a machine. And they sure are expensive. |
#6
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Why does a trailer need a dovetail?
Albert wrote:
I'm thinking about getting an open trailer for general hobby use (hauling steel tubes, dimensional lumber, an occasional machine, and an occasional car). I'm thinking tandem axle, electric brakes on both axles, 18' long, and 7000 to 10000 pound GVWR. I've seen many of these with a slanted dovetail on the rear-most 4 feet. I understand this dovetail combined with 2 short length ramps make it easier to load a low clearance vehicle. But I don't understand why a flat bed and 2 long ramps wouldn't do the same job. Do long ramps bend easily? Are they uneconomical in terms of cost and weight compared to a dovetail? While they might be good for loading a car, I don't see them helping if I'm carrying long tubes or wood. Also, I've considered an enclosed trailer but have yet to see any with strong tie-downs that would be appropriate for tying down a machine. And they sure are expensive. I've seen equipment trailers that had a set of ramps that pretty near turned the beavertail back into a flat area when they were folded up onto the back of the trailer. Or you could build a steel tube framed filler for the times you need to have a dead flat bed, and pop it off when you want to load a wheeled vehicle. |
#7
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Why does a trailer need a dovetail?
I'm thinking about getting an open trailer for general hobby use
(hauling steel tubes, dimensional lumber, an occasional machine, and an occasional car). I'm thinking tandem axle, electric brakes on both axles, 18' long, and 7000 to 10000 pound GVWR. I've seen many of these with a slanted dovetail on the rear-most 4 feet. I understand this dovetail combined with 2 short length ramps make it easier to load a low clearance vehicle. But I don't understand why a flat bed and 2 long ramps wouldn't do the same job. Do long ramps bend easily? Are they uneconomical in terms of cost and weight compared to a dovetail? While they might be good for loading a car, I don't see them helping if I'm carrying long tubes or wood. Also, I've considered an enclosed trailer but have yet to see any with strong tie-downs that would be appropriate for tying down a machine. And they sure are expensive. Although I don't have any names or links for you, I *have* seen hinged, beavertail trailers where the beavertail is raised up level with the trailer bed (I believe hydraulically) for normal transportation. Lowered for loading cars, etc., but left up for "flat" loads. The hinged beavertail seems to be a good design improvement where you can meet both demands. Ken. |
#8
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Why does a trailer need a dovetail?
Albert wrote:
I'm thinking about getting an open trailer for general hobby use (hauling steel tubes, dimensional lumber, an occasional machine, and an occasional car). I'm thinking tandem axle, electric brakes on both axles, 18' long, and 7000 to 10000 pound GVWR. I've seen many of these with a slanted dovetail on the rear-most 4 feet. I understand this dovetail combined with 2 short length ramps make it easier to load a low clearance vehicle. But I don't understand why a flat bed and 2 long ramps wouldn't do the same job. Do long ramps bend easily? Are they uneconomical in terms of cost and weight compared to a dovetail? While they might be good for loading a car, I don't see them helping if I'm carrying long tubes or wood. Also, I've considered an enclosed trailer but have yet to see any with strong tie-downs that would be appropriate for tying down a machine. And they sure are expensive. I have a 14' trailer that I built for my racecar and the bed is flat. The ramps I built are made with 1' X 1'. .090 steel tube with diamond plate welded on top and hinges in the middle and they will, indeed, bend. I cured that problem with a pair of HF aluminum jack stands which I place just forward of the hinge line. Works great. I've even hauled the '81 Corvette on it. The ramps fold up to about 4' and are stowed across the rear of the trailer with two shortened ratchet straps. Made a hook for the trailer end of the ramps out of 1" angle iron and that fits into a slot formed with 2" by 1/4" strap that goes the width of the rear of the trailer. That way you can adjust the width of the ramps to suit different vehicles. Jim |
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