I now have possession of the lathe. It came with a 5C collet nose and
Royal lever closer, plus something like 140 collets, mostly Hardinge.
Also got the 3-jaw, 4-jaw, and dog-driver chucks, three driving dogs,
and the steady rest. No slotted faceplate or follow rest.

Seller also threw in a collection of side-milling cutters that I can use
in the Millrite.

Toolpost is funky, a wrench-activated sort-of aloris, but no pistons or
wedges. Also got lots of bits and holders, plus some knurlers.

Lots of spooge and dirt. Threads in particular need to be cleaned, to
allow free motion. The dog driver plate had some bits of aluminum stuck
to the L-00 taper, from tightening the plate down without first cleaning
the mating surfaces.

Motor is 3-phase 220/208-volt 2 HP, and appears to be original.

By the way, to remove a chuck, which way does one rotate the big ring
that grabs the thread on the L-00 taper? It's hard to turn in either
direction, probably from spooge and chips in the threads, and I'm
reluctant to press on without knowing the correct direction.

Joe Gwinn

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I now have possession of the lathe. It came with a 5C collet nose and
Royal lever closer, plus something like 140 collets, mostly Hardinge.
Also got the 3-jaw, 4-jaw, and dog-driver chucks, three driving dogs,
and the steady rest. No slotted faceplate or follow rest.

Seller also threw in a collection of side-milling cutters that I can use
in the Millrite.

Toolpost is funky, a wrench-activated sort-of aloris, but no pistons or
wedges. Also got lots of bits and holders, plus some knurlers.

Lots of spooge and dirt. Threads in particular need to be cleaned, to
allow free motion. The dog driver plate had some bits of aluminum stuck
to the L-00 taper, from tightening the plate down without first cleaning
the mating surfaces.

Motor is 3-phase 220/208-volt 2 HP, and appears to be original.

By the way, to remove a chuck, which way does one rotate the big ring
that grabs the thread on the L-00 taper? It's hard to turn in either
direction, probably from spooge and chips in the threads, and I'm
reluctant to press on without knowing the correct direction.

Rotate the ring clockwise (when looking at the spindle nose) to loosen the
chuck.

Mike

In article ,
"Mike Henry" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I now have possession of the lathe. It came with a 5C collet nose and
Royal lever closer, plus something like 140 collets, mostly Hardinge.
Also got the 3-jaw, 4-jaw, and dog-driver chucks, three driving dogs,
and the steady rest. No slotted faceplate or follow rest.

Seller also threw in a collection of side-milling cutters that I can use
in the Millrite.

Toolpost is funky, a wrench-activated sort-of aloris, but no pistons or
wedges. Also got lots of bits and holders, plus some knurlers.

Lots of spooge and dirt. Threads in particular need to be cleaned, to
allow free motion. The dog driver plate had some bits of aluminum stuck
to the L-00 taper, from tightening the plate down without first cleaning
the mating surfaces.

Motor is 3-phase 220/208-volt 2 HP, and appears to be original.

By the way, to remove a chuck, which way does one rotate the big ring
that grabs the thread on the L-00 taper? It's hard to turn in either
direction, probably from spooge and chips in the threads, and I'm
reluctant to press on without knowing the correct direction.

Rotate the ring clockwise (when looking at the spindle nose) to loosen the
chuck.

That worked. Thanks,

Joe Gwinn

On 2007-12-28, Mike Henry wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I now have possession of the lathe. It came with a 5C collet nose and
Royal lever closer, plus something like 140 collets, mostly Hardinge.
Also got the 3-jaw, 4-jaw, and dog-driver chucks, three driving dogs,
and the steady rest. No slotted faceplate or follow rest.

Great!

Seller also threw in a collection of side-milling cutters that I can use
in the Millrite.

Toolpost is funky, a wrench-activated sort-of aloris, but no pistons or
wedges. Also got lots of bits and holders, plus some knurlers.

Hmm ... is it perhaps the Dickenson style common in the UK with
Myford lathes? The toolpost has two vertical male V-ways, which match
female ones in the holders. The toolpost wrench a bent shank socket
wrench rotates a cam which draws in a T-stud which engages a T-slot in
the holders between the female Vees. There are two sets of V-ways and
T-studs -- one for turning and one for boring/facing. Each holder has a
long knurled thumbnut to raise or lower the holder, and an Allen-head
cap screw to lock the thumbnut to the proper height.

Not quite as convenient as a wedge style Aloris or clone, but
pretty close to as rigid and better than the piston style. I've got one
on my Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC (a significantly smaller lathe).

Lots of spooge and dirt. Threads in particular need to be cleaned, to
allow free motion.

Spritz them with WD-40 to soften the old lubes so you can undo
things and wipe them clean -- then put on good lubes (E.G. Vactra No. 2
waylube) in place -- though be prepared to wipe it off before mounting
the chucks or plates.

The dog driver plate had some bits of aluminum stuck
to the L-00 taper, from tightening the plate down without first cleaning
the mating surfaces.

Ouch.

Motor is 3-phase 220/208-volt 2 HP, and appears to be original.

Great!

By the way, to remove a chuck, which way does one rotate the big ring
that grabs the thread on the L-00 taper? It's hard to turn in either
direction, probably from spooge and chips in the threads, and I'm
reluctant to press on without knowing the correct direction.

Rotate the ring clockwise (when looking at the spindle nose) to loosen the
chuck.

This agrees with my experience -- though you could have told by
looking at the threads on one of the chucks or plates which was not
currently mounted.

Again -- spritz in WD-40 to loosen up the spooge before removing
it. And put a board across the ways to take the weight of the chuck
without dinging the ways when it comes loose. It is not as sudden as a
threaded chuck, but these are heavy enough to be a surprise the first
time or two. :-) Ideally -- take a 2x6 or 2x8 and make matching
V-grooves in the bottom so it won't slide off. To make mounting a chuck
easier -- secure another to the top surface and sand or otherwise cut an
arc in it to match the chuck at the right height. You'll need to make
one for each diameter of chuck of course.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Mike Henry wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I now have possession of the lathe. It came with a 5C collet nose and
Royal lever closer, plus something like 140 collets, mostly Hardinge.
Also got the 3-jaw, 4-jaw, and dog-driver chucks, three driving dogs,
and the steady rest. No slotted faceplate or follow rest.

Great!

Seller also threw in a collection of side-milling cutters that I can use
in the Millrite.

Toolpost is funky, a wrench-activated sort-of aloris, but no pistons or
wedges. Also got lots of bits and holders, plus some knurlers.

Hmm ... is it perhaps the Dickenson style common in the UK with
Myford lathes? The toolpost has two vertical male V-ways, which match
female ones in the holders. The toolpost wrench a bent shank socket
wrench rotates a cam which draws in a T-stud which engages a T-slot in
the holders between the female Vees. There are two sets of V-ways and
T-studs -- one for turning and one for boring/facing. Each holder has a
long knurled thumbnut to raise or lower the holder, and an Allen-head
cap screw to lock the thumbnut to the proper height.

Not quite as convenient as a wedge style Aloris or clone, but
pretty close to as rigid and better than the piston style. I've got one
on my Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC (a significantly smaller lathe).

This sounds like it could be what I have. The body is marked "RAPID
I.S.A" in an ellipse, plus "TIPO-M" in a rectangle. Where would one
find information on these holders? I guess that RAPID is one maker,
probably British.

The mounting of this toolpost onto the lathe compound rest is homebrew
and strange and ad-hoc, and seems floppy. This deserves a bit of
reengineering.


Lots of spooge and dirt. Threads in particular need to be cleaned, to
allow free motion.

Spritz them with WD-40 to soften the old lubes so you can undo
things and wipe them clean -- then put on good lubes (E.G. Vactra No. 2
waylube) in place -- though be prepared to wipe it off before mounting
the chucks or plates.

Been doing that, but been using acetone to get that last bit of spooge
off. Actually, a mix of acetone and WD-40 is quite effective.

I don't think the welders ever oiled the lathe. Nor did they use it
much. When I pumped Vactra #2 into all the oil fittings, vast amounts
of dirty oil flowed out at first, and it became easier to move whatever
had thus been oiled. The dirt seems to be accumulated ferrous wear
products, not grit.

The ways are flame hardened and look good, so the wear products probably
come from the cast iron saddle sliding on the bed ways.


The dog driver plate had some bits of aluminum stuck
to the L-00 taper, from tightening the plate down without first cleaning
the mating surfaces.

Ouch.

All the chucks need a cleaning, but the dog driver seems to be the only
one used.


Motor is 3-phase 220/208-volt 2 HP, and appears to be original.

Great!

By the way, to remove a chuck, which way does one rotate the big ring
that grabs the thread on the L-00 taper? It's hard to turn in either
direction, probably from spooge and chips in the threads, and I'm
reluctant to press on without knowing the correct direction.

Rotate the ring clockwise (when looking at the spindle nose) to loosen the
chuck.

This agrees with my experience -- though you could have told by
looking at the threads on one of the chucks or plates which was not
currently mounted.

I thought of that, but never having had the collet nose apart, was
afraid to be too strong with it.


Again -- spritz in WD-40 to loosen up the spooge before removing
it. And put a board across the ways to take the weight of the chuck
without dinging the ways when it comes loose. It is not as sudden as a
threaded chuck, but these are heavy enough to be a surprise the first
time or two. :-) Ideally -- take a 2x6 or 2x8 and make matching
V-grooves in the bottom so it won't slide off. To make mounting a chuck
easier -- secure another to the top surface and sand or otherwise cut an
arc in it to match the chuck at the right height. You'll need to make
one for each diameter of chuck of course.

I have yet to mount the chucks, but this is nonetheless good advice,
especially the wooden purpose-built holding fixture for mounting and
dismounting chucks.

Joe Gwinn

On 2007-12-29, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Mike Henry wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message

[ ... ]

Toolpost is funky, a wrench-activated sort-of aloris, but no pistons or
wedges. Also got lots of bits and holders, plus some knurlers.

Hmm ... is it perhaps the Dickenson style common in the UK with
Myford lathes? The toolpost has two vertical male V-ways, which match
female ones in the holders. The toolpost wrench a bent shank socket
wrench rotates a cam which draws in a T-stud which engages a T-slot in
the holders between the female Vees. There are two sets of V-ways and
T-studs -- one for turning and one for boring/facing. Each holder has a
long knurled thumbnut to raise or lower the holder, and an Allen-head
cap screw to lock the thumbnut to the proper height.

Not quite as convenient as a wedge style Aloris or clone, but
pretty close to as rigid and better than the piston style. I've got one
on my Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC (a significantly smaller lathe).

This sounds like it could be what I have. The body is marked "RAPID
I.S.A" in an ellipse, plus "TIPO-M" in a rectangle. Where would one
find information on these holders? I guess that RAPID is one maker,
probably British.

Hmm ... "TIPO-M" suggests Italian or Spanish manufacture ("tipo"
being "type"). Not sure about the "RAPID I.S.A.", but you could try
a Google search for it.

The mounting of this toolpost onto the lathe compound rest is homebrew
and strange and ad-hoc, and seems floppy. This deserves a bit of
reengineering.

Hmm ... the one on my Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC secures with a
center bolt to a steel plate which is secured via four Allen-head cap
screws to the cross-slide. (No compound on the CNC version, as angle
cuts are done by programing the CNC.)

The toolpost bolts to either of two different positions,
depending on the diameter to be machined, as the CNC cross-slide does
not have sufficient range to handle the maximum radius part down to he
center in a single pass.

Examination of the underside
suggests that it was intended to clamp down on a tapered stud instead of
clamping down to a flat plate -- but I haven't gotten around to making a
matching taper for it yet.

[ ... ]

I don't think the welders ever oiled the lathe. Nor did they use it
much. When I pumped Vactra #2 into all the oil fittings, vast amounts
of dirty oil flowed out at first, and it became easier to move whatever
had thus been oiled. The dirt seems to be accumulated ferrous wear
products, not grit.

The ways are flame hardened and look good, so the wear products probably
come from the cast iron saddle sliding on the bed ways.

The spooge could be splattered ferrous metal melted by flame
cutting and scattered over the whole shop. Their not lubing things much
has the benefit that it did not grab hold of more of the airborne junk,
since it sounds as though they never cleaned it. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-29, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Mike Henry wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message

[ ... ]

Toolpost is funky, a wrench-activated sort-of aloris, but no pistons or
wedges. Also got lots of bits and holders, plus some knurlers.

Hmm ... is it perhaps the Dickenson style common in the UK with
Myford lathes? The toolpost has two vertical male V-ways, which match
female ones in the holders. The toolpost wrench a bent shank socket
wrench rotates a cam which draws in a T-stud which engages a T-slot in
the holders between the female Vees. There are two sets of V-ways and
T-studs -- one for turning and one for boring/facing. Each holder has a
long knurled thumbnut to raise or lower the holder, and an Allen-head
cap screw to lock the thumbnut to the proper height.

Not quite as convenient as a wedge style Aloris or clone, but
pretty close to as rigid and better than the piston style. I've got one
on my Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC (a significantly smaller lathe).

This sounds like it could be what I have. The body is marked "RAPID
I.S.A" in an ellipse, plus "TIPO-M" in a rectangle. Where would one
find information on these holders? I guess that RAPID is one maker,
probably British.

Hmm ... "TIPO-M" suggests Italian or Spanish manufacture ("tipo"
being "type"). Not sure about the "RAPID I.S.A.", but you could try
a Google search for it.

Nothing came up on Google. Who knows if they are still in business.

"Dickenson style" implies multiple makers. What are likely names?
Maybe Myford has a favorite maker?


The mounting of this toolpost onto the lathe compound rest is homebrew
and strange and ad-hoc, and seems floppy. This deserves a bit of
reengineering.

Hmm ... the one on my Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC secures with a
center bolt to a steel plate which is secured via four Allen-head cap
screws to the cross-slide. (No compound on the CNC version, as angle
cuts are done by programing the CNC.)

The toolpost bolts to either of two different positions,
depending on the diameter to be machined, as the CNC cross-slide does
not have sufficient range to handle the maximum radius part down to he
center in a single pass.

Examination of the underside
suggests that it was intended to clamp down on a tapered stud instead of
clamping down to a flat plate -- but I haven't gotten around to making a
matching taper for it yet.

The one I have appears to be intended to mount on a cylindrical post
with a smaller cylindrical screw clamping it down. There is a sliding
pin with a rounded nose that is intended to engage location holes at
various angles in a plate that is not in evidence, to prevent rotation.
There is no taper.

I don't think this toolpost came with the lathe, as it is cobbled to the
lathe.


[ ... ]

I don't think the welders ever oiled the lathe. Nor did they use it
much. When I pumped Vactra #2 into all the oil fittings, vast amounts
of dirty oil flowed out at first, and it became easier to move whatever
had thus been oiled. The dirt seems to be accumulated ferrous wear
products, not grit.

The ways are flame hardened and look good, so the wear products probably
come from the cast iron saddle sliding on the bed ways.

The spooge could be splattered ferrous metal melted by flame
cutting and scattered over the whole shop. Their not lubing things much
has the benefit that it did not grab hold of more of the airborne junk,
since it sounds as though they never cleaned it. :-)

The black stuff was inside, in places airborne iron oxide dust could not
go. But it was never cleaned. Actually, I think that the lathe came
dirty, because there was a lot of hardened cutting oil and chips in the
chip pan, and the welders cut dry - I didn't see anything like a coolant
circulation system. If it had had one, I bet it would have been
included.


Joe Gwinn

I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.

"Clark Magnuson" wrote in message
...
I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.

The wood will not beat up the ring, but it can't be good for the headstock
bearings to be beating on the spindle. I change chucks fairly often. I
forged a hook spanner from some 1" x 1.5" bar stock for my L-1 LeBlond.

Carl Boyd

Carl Boyd wrote:
"Clark Magnuson" wrote in message
...
I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.

The wood will not beat up the ring, but it can't be good for the headstock
bearings to be beating on the spindle. I change chucks fairly often. I
forged a hook spanner from some 1" x 1.5" bar stock for my L-1 LeBlond.

Carl Boyd



That got my thinking.
I assumed from how smashed up the holes on that ring are that it is
Aluminum. But I see now it is attractive to a magnet.

I thought of myself as babying that ring by using a stick to hit it
after all the damage it has taken being hit with metal at Boeing and/or
AIE Industrial in the 40 years before I got the lathe.

The link to the picture of my lathe is still good from the auction, 6
years later:
http://www.murphyauctions.net/past/a...rial.html#pic1

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 10:38:29 -0800, Clark Magnuson
wrote:

SNIP

The link to the picture of my lathe is still good from the auction, 6
years later:
http://www.murphyauctions.net/past/a...rial.html#pic1


Hey Clark,

Hmmmm....in the photo, there is a tool box suspended under the chip
tray. Looks like a good idea. Is that still there, and if so:
How useful is it?
Does it get a lot of chips inside?
What do you store in it.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Brian Lawson wrote:
On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 10:38:29 -0800, Clark Magnuson
wrote:

SNIP
The link to the picture of my lathe is still good from the auction, 6
years later:
http://www.murphyauctions.net/past/a...rial.html#pic1


Hey Clark,

Hmmmm....in the photo, there is a tool box suspended under the chip
tray. Looks like a good idea. Is that still there, and if so:
How useful is it?
Does it get a lot of chips inside?
What do you store in it.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.


The lathe came with the tool box attached, and it is still there, but
cleaner.
It hold the manual, boring bars, cutting tools, woodruff keys, etc.
They drilled into the catch pan and bolted on (4) "L" brackets.
Those brackets are also bolted to the tool box. Two steel shipping band
loops also that wrap around the bottom of the tool box to hold it together.
There is enough space under the tool box to slide things under it, like
5 gal buckets of round stock or wooden cradles holding 12" chucks.

Clark Magnuson wrote:
I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.
I loosen and tighten the L00 ring on my Kerry 1140 with the C spanner
provided. The ring is hardened and harder than the C spanner so while
the C spanner looks beaten up the ring looks undamaged and is probably
35+ years old.

In article ,
Clark Magnuson wrote:

I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.

The lathe came with the correct pin spanner, made by Armstrong. Just
engage the back gear and whap the spanner arm with a lead hammer.

Joe Gwinn

On 2007-12-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.

The rings on Clausings which I have seen have blind holes
drilled every so many degrees -- every 60 or 45 degrees, I think. They
accept a radial pin spanner. I use a dead-blow hammer to drive mine.
And if I am in a gearing which makes it easy for the chuck to turn the
spindle, I engage the back gear while keeping the pin in for direct
drive. Be sure to remember to undo this before applying power. With
your 2HP motor and (I believe) the variable speed pulley, you might have
enough torque to damage the back gears otherwise.

Of course -- some have milled notches instead of drilled holes,
and there you use a hook spanner instead.

Also -- be *sure* to put the nose protector on (and snug the
ring) before putting in the collet adaptor -- or you will have
difficulty getting the adaptor back out.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.

The rings on Clausings which I have seen have blind holes
drilled every so many degrees -- every 60 or 45 degrees, I think. They
accept a radial pin spanner. I use a dead-blow hammer to drive mine.
And if I am in a gearing which makes it easy for the chuck to turn the
spindle, I engage the back gear while keeping the pin in for direct
drive. Be sure to remember to undo this before applying power. With
your 2HP motor and (I believe) the variable speed pulley, you might have
enough torque to damage the back gears otherwise.

Of course -- some have milled notches instead of drilled holes,
and there you use a hook spanner instead.

Mine has shallow milled slots plus a blind round hole every 60 degrees,
and came with a big radial-pin spanner that fits perfectly.

The milled slots appear to be intended to provide a hand grip, being a
form of knurling.

I've using a lead hammer on the spanner, but a dead-blow hammer would
also work.


Also -- be *sure* to put the nose protector on (and snug the
ring) before putting in the collet adaptor -- or you will have
difficulty getting the adaptor back out.

I don't know what a nose protector is, or if I have one. The lathe came
with collet nose and closer (made by Royal) installed, and I have not
yet taken them apart.

I have no idea what many of the knobs and handles on the lathe do, or
how to take it apart, and will order the manual from Clausing next week.

Joe Gwinn

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.

The rings on Clausings which I have seen have blind holes
drilled every so many degrees -- every 60 or 45 degrees, I think. They
accept a radial pin spanner. I use a dead-blow hammer to drive mine.
And if I am in a gearing which makes it easy for the chuck to turn the
spindle, I engage the back gear while keeping the pin in for direct
drive. Be sure to remember to undo this before applying power. With
your 2HP motor and (I believe) the variable speed pulley, you might have
enough torque to damage the back gears otherwise.

Of course -- some have milled notches instead of drilled holes,
and there you use a hook spanner instead.

Mine has shallow milled slots plus a blind round hole every 60 degrees,
and came with a big radial-pin spanner that fits perfectly.

The milled slots appear to be intended to provide a hand grip, being a
form of knurling.

I've using a lead hammer on the spanner, but a dead-blow hammer would
also work.

I've been getting by with a good whack with an open palm.

Also -- be *sure* to put the nose protector on (and snug the
ring) before putting in the collet adaptor -- or you will have
difficulty getting the adaptor back out.

I don't know what a nose protector is, or if I have one. The lathe came
with collet nose and closer (made by Royal) installed, and I have not
yet taken them apart.

On mine (and others I've seen) it's an aluminum piece that fits over the
spindle nose with external threads that fit into the spindle nut. It
protects the threads on the spindle nut and extracts the 5C spindle sleeve
(adapter) by pushing the sleeve out when the spindle nut is loosened. In
the picture below, the nose protector is at the lower right hand corner of
the manual:

http://memweb.newsguy.com/~mphenry/C...Accesories.jpg

I have no idea what many of the knobs and handles on the lathe do, or
how to take it apart, and will order the manual from Clausing next week.

Make sure you have the serial number handy - they have something like 25
versions of the 5900-series manuals and need the S/N to get you the right
one. You might also check on manuals for any accessories that you might
have. I think that they threw a couple in for free when I ordered a manual.

Mike

In article ,
"Mike Henry" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
I remove and tighten the ring on the L00 with a stick and hammer.
The wood will not beat up the ring.

The rings on Clausings which I have seen have blind holes
drilled every so many degrees -- every 60 or 45 degrees, I think. They
accept a radial pin spanner. I use a dead-blow hammer to drive mine.
And if I am in a gearing which makes it easy for the chuck to turn the
spindle, I engage the back gear while keeping the pin in for direct
drive. Be sure to remember to undo this before applying power. With
your 2HP motor and (I believe) the variable speed pulley, you might have
enough torque to damage the back gears otherwise.

Of course -- some have milled notches instead of drilled holes,
and there you use a hook spanner instead.

Mine has shallow milled slots plus a blind round hole every 60 degrees,
and came with a big radial-pin spanner that fits perfectly.

The milled slots appear to be intended to provide a hand grip, being a
form of knurling.

I've using a lead hammer on the spanner, but a dead-blow hammer would
also work.

I've been getting by with a good whack with an open palm.

I think it would hurt my palm, which doesn't have a lot of padding.

From the flat spot on the spanner handle, it has been hit with a steel
hammer for some time.


Also -- be *sure* to put the nose protector on (and snug the
ring) before putting in the collet adaptor -- or you will have
difficulty getting the adaptor back out.

I don't know what a nose protector is, or if I have one. The lathe came
with collet nose and closer (made by Royal) installed, and I have not
yet taken them apart.

On mine (and others I've seen) it's an aluminum piece that fits over the
spindle nose with external threads that fit into the spindle nut. It
protects the threads on the spindle nut and extracts the 5C spindle sleeve
(adapter) by pushing the sleeve out when the spindle nut is loosened. In
the picture below, the nose protector is at the lower right hand corner of
the manual:

http://memweb.newsguy.com/~mphenry/C...Accesories.jpg

I may have such a piece, deeply buried.


I have no idea what many of the knobs and handles on the lathe do, or
how to take it apart, and will order the manual from Clausing next week.

Make sure you have the serial number handy - they have something like 25
versions of the 5900-series manuals and need the S/N to get you the right
one. You might also check on manuals for any accessories that you might
have. I think that they threw a couple in for free when I ordered a manual.

I did call, serial number in hand, but Clausing closed down at noon on
Friday. Maybe Monday.


Joe Gwinn

On 2007-12-29, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:

[ ... ]

Of course -- some have milled notches instead of drilled holes,
and there you use a hook spanner instead.

Mine has shallow milled slots plus a blind round hole every 60 degrees,
and came with a big radial-pin spanner that fits perfectly.

The milled slots appear to be intended to provide a hand grip, being a
form of knurling.

I've seen some spanner wrenches with a curved tip to fit into a
radiused depth. slot

[ ... ]

Also -- be *sure* to put the nose protector on (and snug the
ring) before putting in the collet adaptor -- or you will have
difficulty getting the adaptor back out.

I don't know what a nose protector is, or if I have one. The lathe came
with collet nose and closer (made by Royal) installed, and I have not
yet taken them apart.

O.K. The nose is tapered, with a projecting key to engage a
matching key slot in the chuck mounting plates -- or built in.

When a collet adaptor is in place, there is nothing for the
pull-down ring to pull on unless there is a nose protector slid over the
nose (with the taper and keyway) and tightened by the ring.

The collet adaptor has a flange which extends out a bit beyond
the small-end diameter of the nose.

The collet adaptor gets *very* firmly wedged in the internal
taper of the spindle.

When you need to take it out -- you loosen the lock ring, which
then pushes the nose protector towards the tailstock, and pushes on the
flange of the collet adaptor -- popping it out. (Assuming that you
don't have a collet mounted at the time, of course. :-)

In my case -- the nose protector (ordered from Royal through
Scott Logan) was aluminum, and was included with the collet adaptor. I
already had the lever style collet drawbar. I'm not sure whether they
all were aluminum, or whether earlier ones were steel.

I did have to extend the drawbar by about an inch, because the
L-00 spindle was about that much longer than the 2-1/4x8 threaded one --
which had a different collet adaptor (to a different taper) and had a
ring which screwed on the 2-1/4x8 spindle nose. It used the same
approach to popping lose the adaptor -- and the ring itself was drilled
with holes for a pin spanner.

I have no idea what many of the knobs and handles on the lathe do, or
how to take it apart, and will order the manual from Clausing next week.

The manual will be a significant help. However, until it gets
there we'll see how much I can provide from my 5418 belt change lathe.

1) On the carriage you will find:

a) A handwheel which turns a pinion which engages a rack
gear under the edge of the bed to move the carriage.

b) A lever at the right-hand edge of the carriage which
pulls up to close the half-nuts. (Interlocked to the
feed lever, so you can't pull both up at the same time.)

c) Possibly -- a threading dial attached to the right-hand
edge of the apron and with a gear on the end which
engages the leadscrew -- for telling you when to close
the half-nuts while threading.

d) A short lever which moves in a 'Z' shaped groove. Up
engages slow feed along the bed. Down engages slow
cross feed. It has to be slid along the center bar of
the 'Z' to switch from one to the other, so you are
unlikely to overshoot and go from longitudinal to
cross-feed or vice versa when you simply want to stop.
You should use this for feeds when cutting, and leave
the half-nuts only for use when threading.

e) At the top of the apron is the cross-slide, with a
crank to move the cross slide (and it can be power fed).
Above the cross-slide is the compound with the T-slot
for mounting the tool holder.

2) Below the bed under the headstock is the quick-change threading
gearbox. It has:

a) The usual lever where you pull out on a knurled
knob, swing it down, and slide it sideways to select a
particular set of gears.

b) A paddle lever on top which has three positions, left,
center, and right -- with center pointing out at you.

This selects one of three factors-of-two reduction
ratios before the lever just mentioned.

c) Sticking out through a hole in the left-hand cover of
the headstock is a short knurled shaft. This is
attached to a sliding pair of gears. Sliding it in
connects to the input of the above gearbox at one ratio.
Sliding it out at another ratio -- a factor of 8
different from the first.

all three of these work together to select the thread pitch --
and to select the feeds. There should be a metal chart giving
the threads and feeds for each setting combination. The
figures are above the slots for the lever in (a) above, and you
will find in fine print the corresponding longitudinal feed,
with a multiplier factor for the cross feed which is slower.

Now -- we get to things in which yours will differ from mine, as
you have variable speed. Sometimes that is from a wheel with two levers
on top of the headstock, or sometimes a crank and a lever from the front
of the pedestal below the headstock. I've not used these, as mine has
belts which you change after opening the front of the pedestal and no
variable speed. So -- I can't guide you on these. Mine also has a
switch box on the front left of the headstock with a lever and knob for
selecting motor behavior.

Left is forwards.

Center is stopped.

Right is reverse.

Yours probably at least has a start-stop switch. I don't know
whether your variable speed also offers forward/reverse selection or
whether you need to switch the motor for that.

If you are lucky, there will also be a taper attachment mounted
behind the carriage to allow cutting repeatable tapers.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-29, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:

[ ... ]

Of course -- some have milled notches instead of drilled holes,
and there you use a hook spanner instead.

Mine has shallow milled slots plus a blind round hole every 60 degrees,
and came with a big radial-pin spanner that fits perfectly.

The milled slots appear to be intended to provide a hand grip, being a
form of knurling.

I've seen some spanner wrenches with a curved tip to fit into a
radiused depth. slot

I've seen that too.


[ ... ]

Also -- be *sure* to put the nose protector on (and snug the
ring) before putting in the collet adaptor -- or you will have
difficulty getting the adaptor back out.

I don't know what a nose protector is, or if I have one. The lathe came
with collet nose and closer (made by Royal) installed, and I have not
yet taken them apart.

O.K. The nose is tapered, with a projecting key to engage a
matching key slot in the chuck mounting plates -- or built in.

When a collet adaptor is in place, there is nothing for the
pull-down ring to pull on unless there is a nose protector slid over the
nose (with the taper and keyway) and tightened by the ring.

The collet adaptor has a flange which extends out a bit beyond
the small-end diameter of the nose.

The collet adaptor gets *very* firmly wedged in the internal
taper of the spindle.

When you need to take it out -- you loosen the lock ring, which
then pushes the nose protector towards the tailstock, and pushes on the
flange of the collet adaptor -- popping it out. (Assuming that you
don't have a collet mounted at the time, of course. :-)

Hmm. I may have a protector, but didn't push hard enough to pop it
loose.


In my case -- the nose protector (ordered from Royal through
Scott Logan) was aluminum, and was included with the collet adaptor. I
already had the lever style collet drawbar. I'm not sure whether they
all were aluminum, or whether earlier ones were steel.

I did have to extend the drawbar by about an inch, because the
L-00 spindle was about that much longer than the 2-1/4x8 threaded one --
which had a different collet adaptor (to a different taper) and had a
ring which screwed on the 2-1/4x8 spindle nose. It used the same
approach to popping lose the adaptor -- and the ring itself was drilled
with holes for a pin spanner.

Given that this is a Royal lever closer, which was standard on the
Clausings, I'd guess that it came with everything needed, of the correct
length.


I have no idea what many of the knobs and handles on the lathe do, or
how to take it apart, and will order the manual from Clausing next week.

The manual will be a significant help. However, until it gets
there we'll see how much I can provide from my 5418 belt change lathe.

As it happens, I have a scanned 5418 manual. No idea how I got it or
where from.


1) On the carriage you will find:

a) A handwheel which turns a pinion which engages a rack
gear under the edge of the bed to move the carriage.

Yes.


b) A lever at the right-hand edge of the carriage which
pulls up to close the half-nuts. (Interlocked to the
feed lever, so you can't pull both up at the same time.)

Yes.


c) Possibly -- a threading dial attached to the right-hand
edge of the apron and with a gear on the end which
engages the leadscrew -- for telling you when to close
the half-nuts while threading.

It does have a threading dial.


d) A short lever which moves in a 'Z' shaped groove. Up
engages slow feed along the bed. Down engages slow
cross feed. It has to be slid along the center bar of
the 'Z' to switch from one to the other, so you are
unlikely to overshoot and go from longitudinal to
cross-feed or vice versa when you simply want to stop.
You should use this for feeds when cutting, and leave
the half-nuts only for use when threading.

This does not match, although something must perform a like function.


e) At the top of the apron is the cross-slide, with a
crank to move the cross slide (and it can be power fed).
Above the cross-slide is the compound with the T-slot
for mounting the tool holder.

Yes.


2) Below the bed under the headstock is the quick-change threading
gearbox. It has:

a) The usual lever where you pull out on a knurled
knob, swing it down, and slide it sideways to select a
particular set of gears.

Yes.


b) A paddle lever on top which has three positions, left,
center, and right -- with center pointing out at you.

This selects one of three factors-of-two reduction
ratios before the lever just mentioned.

Must be there somewhere, but no paddle lever.


c) Sticking out through a hole in the left-hand cover of
the headstock is a short knurled shaft. This is
attached to a sliding pair of gears. Sliding it in
connects to the input of the above gearbox at one ratio.
Sliding it out at another ratio -- a factor of 8
different from the first.

Yes.


all three of these work together to select the thread pitch --
and to select the feeds. There should be a metal chart giving
the threads and feeds for each setting combination. The
figures are above the slots for the lever in (a) above, and you
will find in fine print the corresponding longitudinal feed,
with a multiplier factor for the cross feed which is slower.

There is the metal plate.


Now -- we get to things in which yours will differ from mine, as
you have variable speed. Sometimes that is from a wheel with two levers
on top of the headstock, or sometimes a crank and a lever from the front
of the pedestal below the headstock. I've not used these, as mine has
belts which you change after opening the front of the pedestal and no
variable speed. So -- I can't guide you on these. Mine also has a
switch box on the front left of the headstock with a lever and knob for
selecting motor behavior.

Left is forwards.

Center is stopped.

Right is reverse.

Yours probably at least has a start-stop switch. I don't know
whether your variable speed also offers forward/reverse selection or
whether you need to switch the motor for that.

It has a three-position switch: forward-off-reverse. I will bypass this
switch, as the VFD will not approve of live switching of motor wiring.

The mechanical variable-speed control does not reverse; this is
accomplished by the above switch.


If you are lucky, there will also be a taper attachment mounted
behind the carriage to allow cutting repeatable tapers.

No such luck. Sniff.


Joe Gwinn

Hey Joe,

Well MERRY CHRISTMAS then!!!!!! Glad for you that it arrived in good
shape.

Take care.

Brian Lawson.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX



On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 15:56:27 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

I now have possession of the lathe. It came with a 5C collet nose and
Royal lever closer, plus something like 140 collets, mostly Hardinge.
Also got the 3-jaw, 4-jaw, and dog-driver chucks, three driving dogs,
and the steady rest. No slotted faceplate or follow rest.

Seller also threw in a collection of side-milling cutters that I can use
in the Millrite.

Toolpost is funky, a wrench-activated sort-of aloris, but no pistons or
wedges. Also got lots of bits and holders, plus some knurlers.

Lots of spooge and dirt. Threads in particular need to be cleaned, to
allow free motion. The dog driver plate had some bits of aluminum stuck
to the L-00 taper, from tightening the plate down without first cleaning
the mating surfaces.

Motor is 3-phase 220/208-volt 2 HP, and appears to be original.

By the way, to remove a chuck, which way does one rotate the big ring
that grabs the thread on the L-00 taper? It's hard to turn in either
direction, probably from spooge and chips in the threads, and I'm
reluctant to press on without knowing the correct direction.

Joe Gwinn