[BoyntonStu]

Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

1's or 2's I can do with a side cutter, etc.

I am thinking spot welding an imperfection on the thread or using a
hammer or a press do slam ears or grooves.

Any experience along these lines?

[David Courtney]

For "many thousands" I would have them made with the correct amount of
thread. http://www.meaden.com/



"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

1's or 2's I can do with a side cutter, etc.

I am thinking spot welding an imperfection on the thread or using a
hammer or a press do slam ears or grooves.

Any experience along these lines?

[Ecnerwal]

In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

1's or 2's I can do with a side cutter, etc.

I am thinking spot welding an imperfection on the thread or using a
hammer or a press do slam ears or grooves.

Any experience along these lines?

Many thousands - order them with threads that only go as far as you want?

Otherwise, yes, a mechanical deformation should work. Welding seems a
bit iffy - crappy welds don't stick well, more extensive welds will
probably warp the screw.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

[Jim Stewart]

BoyntonStu wrote:
Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

1's or 2's I can do with a side cutter, etc.

I am thinking spot welding an imperfection on the thread or using a
hammer or a press do slam ears or grooves.

Any experience along these lines?

No experience, but here's what I'd do...

Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. Loose the
workerbees on it.

[BoyntonStu]

On Nov 29, 4:05 pm, "David Courtney" wrote:
For "many thousands" I would have them made with the correct amount of
thread. http://www.meaden.com/

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...

Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

1's or 2's I can do with a side cutter, etc.

I am thinking spot welding an imperfection on the thread or using a
hammer or a press do slam ears or grooves.

Any experience along these lines?

Great IF a custom shop can do them for ~ 1 cent each plus the cost of
deformation.

[BoyntonStu]

On Nov 29, 4:09 pm, Jim Stewart wrote:
BoyntonStu wrote:
Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

1's or 2's I can do with a side cutter, etc.

I am thinking spot welding an imperfection on the thread or using a
hammer or a press do slam ears or grooves.

Any experience along these lines?

No experience, but here's what I'd do...

Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. Loose the
workerbees on it.

Do you think that more than 1 at a time could be buggered?

If so, would multiple holes or a slot be a good jig design?

I can 'see' a horizontal slot, screws sitting on their heads, riding
vertically along on the slot, threads hanging down.

A 'pincer' tool at the appropriate thread height whose jaw come
together horizontally is powered by a horizontal action arbor foot
press or a ram.

What say you?

A problem might arise in feeding the stock screw and removing it when
it has been buggered.

[Jim Stewart]

BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 29, 4:09 pm, Jim Stewart wrote:
BoyntonStu wrote:
Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.
1's or 2's I can do with a side cutter, etc.
I am thinking spot welding an imperfection on the thread or using a
hammer or a press do slam ears or grooves.
Any experience along these lines?
No experience, but here's what I'd do...

Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. Loose the
workerbees on it.

Do you think that more than 1 at a time could be buggered?

I'm sure I could design something, but not in
5 minutes or for free (:

If so, would multiple holes or a slot be a good jig design?

More than one at a time becomes a serious project.

I can 'see' a horizontal slot, screws sitting on their heads, riding
vertically along on the slot, threads hanging down.

A 'pincer' tool at the appropriate thread height whose jaw come
together horizontally is powered by a horizontal action arbor foot
press or a ram.

What say you?

A problem might arise in feeding the stock screw and removing it when
it has been buggered.

[Bob Engelhardt]

Jim Stewart wrote:
Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. ...

Similar, but faster, I think:
same block with clearance hole - screw bottoms in hole, leaving enough
exposed to grasp.
same right angle hole for punch. Punch sits on a spring to keep it
withdrawn.

To use: insert screw, hit punch with hammer, withdraw screw. Cycle time
of 1.5 sec +-.

Bob

[Anthony]

Jim Stewart wrote in
:



I'm sure I could design something, but not in
5 minutes or for free (:

100% agree. But the op really hasn't stated enough information to even do a
concept from. My first thought....if you pinch/damage/dent the
screw...you've just created the ideal place for it to fail prematurely.


If so, would multiple holes or a slot be a good jig design?

More than one at a time becomes a serious project.

Agreed, it also means much more $$$.

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

[BoyntonStu]

On Nov 29, 9:01 pm, "Robert Swinney" wrote:
Put a drop of Locktite at the desired spot on the screw. It won't harden until the nut is screwed
up to the spot.

Bob Swinney"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message

...

Jim Stewart wrote:
Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. ...

Similar, but faster, I think:
same block with clearance hole - screw bottoms in hole, leaving enough
exposed to grasp.
same right angle hole for punch. Punch sits on a spring to keep it
withdrawn.

To use: insert screw, hit punch with hammer, withdraw screw. Cycle time
of 1.5 sec +-.

Bob

The idea is that with the nut jammed against the buggered threads, one
can turn the screw/nut combination with a screwdriver and tighten a
wire.

[Stealth Pilot]

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 13:01:14 -0800 (PST), BoyntonStu
wrote:

Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

1's or 2's I can do with a side cutter, etc.

I am thinking spot welding an imperfection on the thread or using a
hammer or a press do slam ears or grooves.

Any experience along these lines?

run the nut into position and apply a drop of locktite.

or you need to make a little press to crunch a shape that the nut cant
go past.

[Jim Wilkins]

On Nov 30, 5:37 am, Stealth Pilot
wrote:
On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 13:01:14 -0800 (PST), BoyntonStu
wrote:

Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

run the nut into position and apply a drop of locktite.

Reverse the sequence, put the dab of Loctite on first. You can buy
screws with a drop of threadlocker preinstalled although I don't know
the placement accuracy. Segways are assembled with them. The screw
doesn't quite stop dead when it hits but you can't turn them by hand
any more. With the stronger grades you need heat and Vise-Grips to get
the screw out afterwards.

[BoyntonStu]

On Nov 30, 6:14 am, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Nov 30, 5:37 am, Stealth Pilot
wrote:

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 13:01:14 -0800 (PST), BoyntonStu
wrote:

Needed: Many thousands of 6-32 screws in which a 6-32 hex nut will
only screw on up to a desired thread distance and no more.

run the nut into position and apply a drop of locktite.

Reverse the sequence, put the dab of Loctite on first. You can buy
screws with a drop of threadlocker preinstalled although I don't know
the placement accuracy. Segways are assembled with them. The screw
doesn't quite stop dead when it hits but you can't turn them by hand
any more. With the stronger grades you need heat and Vise-Grips to get
the screw out afterwards.

If the screw is first buggered you can supply the screws and nuts
separately.

No wasted time/effort threading nuts onto screws.

Precise positioning (within a single thread ~ 0.013") is important.

[[email protected]]

On Nov 29, 10:09 pm, BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 29, 9:01 pm, "Robert Swinney" wrote:



Put a drop of Locktite at the desired spot on the screw. It won't harden until the nut is screwed
up to the spot.

Bob Swinney"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message

...

Jim Stewart wrote:
Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. ...

Similar, but faster, I think:
same block with clearance hole - screw bottoms in hole, leaving enough
exposed to grasp.
same right angle hole for punch. Punch sits on a spring to keep it
withdrawn.

To use: insert screw, hit punch with hammer, withdraw screw. Cycle time
of 1.5 sec +-.

Bob

The idea is that with the nut jammed against the buggered threads, one
can turn the screw/nut combination with a screwdriver and tighten a
wire.


Almost sounds like if you had your druthers, you'd be using a screw-
head standoff?


Dave

[BoyntonStu]

On Nov 30, 8:58 am, wrote:
On Nov 29, 10:09 pm, BoyntonStu wrote:



On Nov 29, 9:01 pm, "Robert Swinney" wrote:

Put a drop of Locktite at the desired spot on the screw. It won't harden until the nut is screwed
up to the spot.

Bob Swinney"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message

...

Jim Stewart wrote:
Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. ...

Similar, but faster, I think:
same block with clearance hole - screw bottoms in hole, leaving enough
exposed to grasp.
same right angle hole for punch. Punch sits on a spring to keep it
withdrawn.

To use: insert screw, hit punch with hammer, withdraw screw. Cycle time
of 1.5 sec +-.

Bob

The idea is that with the nut jammed against the buggered threads, one
can turn the screw/nut combination with a screwdriver and tighten a
wire.

Almost sounds like if you had your druthers, you'd be using a screw-
head standoff?

Dave

A screw-head standoff would not work in this case.

Above the nut and until the screw head base, this application requires
the 0.138" (6-32) diameter threaded area.

..

[[email protected]]

On Nov 30, 10:48 am, BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 30, 8:58 am, wrote:



On Nov 29, 10:09 pm, BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 29, 9:01 pm, "Robert Swinney" wrote:

Put a drop of Locktite at the desired spot on the screw. It won't harden until the nut is screwed
up to the spot.

Bob Swinney"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message

...

Jim Stewart wrote:
Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. ...

Similar, but faster, I think:
same block with clearance hole - screw bottoms in hole, leaving enough
exposed to grasp.
same right angle hole for punch. Punch sits on a spring to keep it
withdrawn.

To use: insert screw, hit punch with hammer, withdraw screw. Cycle time
of 1.5 sec +-.

Bob

The idea is that with the nut jammed against the buggered threads, one
can turn the screw/nut combination with a screwdriver and tighten a
wire.

Almost sounds like if you had your druthers, you'd be using a screw-
head standoff?

Dave

A screw-head standoff would not work in this case.

Above the nut and until the screw head base, this application requires
the 0.138" (6-32) diameter threaded area.

.


A scew threaded into a short-headed male-female standoff, loc-tite it
in place?


Dave

[BoyntonStu]

On Nov 30, 12:25 pm, wrote:
On Nov 30, 10:48 am, BoyntonStu wrote:



On Nov 30, 8:58 am, wrote:

On Nov 29, 10:09 pm, BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 29, 9:01 pm, "Robert Swinney" wrote:

Put a drop of Locktite at the desired spot on the screw. It won't harden until the nut is screwed
up to the spot.

Bob Swinney"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message

...

Jim Stewart wrote:
Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. ...

Similar, but faster, I think:
same block with clearance hole - screw bottoms in hole, leaving enough
exposed to grasp.
same right angle hole for punch. Punch sits on a spring to keep it
withdrawn.

To use: insert screw, hit punch with hammer, withdraw screw. Cycle time
of 1.5 sec +-.

Bob

The idea is that with the nut jammed against the buggered threads, one
can turn the screw/nut combination with a screwdriver and tighten a
wire.

Almost sounds like if you had your druthers, you'd be using a screw-
head standoff?

Dave

A screw-head standoff would not work in this case.

Above the nut and until the screw head base, this application requires
the 0.138" (6-32) diameter threaded area.

.

A scew threaded into a short-headed male-female standoff, loc-tite it
in place?

Dave

Dave,

The screw needs the nut to do its job and the clear threads above the
nut are also used.

A deformation with ears would be best.

How-to at a relatively high rate?

[Jim Stewart]

BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 30, 12:25 pm, wrote:
On Nov 30, 10:48 am, BoyntonStu wrote:



On Nov 30, 8:58 am, wrote:
On Nov 29, 10:09 pm, BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 29, 9:01 pm, "Robert Swinney" wrote:
Put a drop of Locktite at the desired spot on the screw. It won't harden until the nut is screwed
up to the spot.
Bob Swinney"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
Jim Stewart wrote:
Start with a small block of metal,
drill a clearance hole for the screw,
and a guide hole at right angles for
a punch/swage. Make up and harden a
punch to go through the guide hole and
suitably bugger the threads. Clamp
the block in an arbor press with the
ram pushing the punch. ...
Similar, but faster, I think:
same block with clearance hole - screw bottoms in hole, leaving enough
exposed to grasp.
same right angle hole for punch. Punch sits on a spring to keep it
withdrawn.
To use: insert screw, hit punch with hammer, withdraw screw. Cycle time
of 1.5 sec +-.
Bob
The idea is that with the nut jammed against the buggered threads, one
can turn the screw/nut combination with a screwdriver and tighten a
wire.
Almost sounds like if you had your druthers, you'd be using a screw-
head standoff?
Dave
A screw-head standoff would not work in this case.
Above the nut and until the screw head base, this application requires
the 0.138" (6-32) diameter threaded area.
.
A scew threaded into a short-headed male-female standoff, loc-tite it
in place?

Dave

Dave,

The screw needs the nut to do its job and the clear threads above the
nut are also used.

A deformation with ears would be best.

How-to at a relatively high rate?

You never said how many you really need. With
the arbor press setup I suggested, and a return
spring fitted, a South East Asian assembly lady
should be able to do 1 every 4 seconds. That's
900 per hour. 7200 in a day for $10-$15/per hour
max. If you need *much* more than that, you
should be talking to the screw manufacturer about
a custom or an offshore job house to do your
modification.

So how many do you really need and how much did
you really think you'd have to pay?