Hello all,

I thought some of you might know what to do, hence the OT post. I have
a '96 F-150 2WD 4.9L, and a very badly needed new water pump. The fan
clutch nut stands between me and my goal.

I have what is supposedly the correct tool, though it does not seem to
grip very well. It is a little worn, which might be part of the
problem; and exchange is next on my list. I also plan to try a strap
wrench vs. the spanner to hold the pulley. It has PB Blaster working on
it as I type.

My real question is how to tell which way to turn the nut. Ford's
documentation says "it could be right or left" - thanks guys The fan
shroud says "right hand thread on fan clutch," but I cannot be certain
it is the original shroud and/or pulley/clutch - I bought the truck only
a year ago.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Bill

On Nov 5, 11:05 am, Bill Schwab wrote:

I have what is supposedly the correct tool, though it does not seem to
grip very well. It is a little worn, which might be part of the
problem; and exchange is next on my list. I also plan to try a strap
wrench vs. the spanner to hold the pulley. It has PB Blaster working on
it as I type.

Is it the part that holds it in place thats too worn or the wrench
that turns the nut? Personally I used a pipe wrench to turn the nut
and the loner tool from the Auto Supply place to hold it in place, its
a thin tool you need to keep it pretty close to dead on parallel.

My real question is how to tell which way to turn the nut. Ford's
documentation says "it could be right or left" - thanks guys The fan
shroud says "right hand thread on fan clutch," but I cannot be certain
it is the original shroud and/or pulley/clutch - I bought the truck only
a year ago.

They should be able to change it even if they replaces it. Typically
when you have a left/right possiblity one is for a different layout to
prevent mixing of parts.

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 12:05:19 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Hello all,

I thought some of you might know what to do, hence the OT post. I have
a '96 F-150 2WD 4.9L, and a very badly needed new water pump. The fan
clutch nut stands between me and my goal.

I have what is supposedly the correct tool, though it does not seem to
grip very well. It is a little worn, which might be part of the
problem; and exchange is next on my list. I also plan to try a strap
wrench vs. the spanner to hold the pulley. It has PB Blaster working on
it as I type.

My real question is how to tell which way to turn the nut. Ford's
documentation says "it could be right or left" - thanks guys The fan
shroud says "right hand thread on fan clutch," but I cannot be certain
it is the original shroud and/or pulley/clutch - I bought the truck only
a year ago.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Bill



I usually pull the radiator to give working room, then use a pipe
wrench or chain wrench.

Which way does your fan turn? The nut should come off in the same
direction

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Bill Schwab wrote:

My real question is how to tell which way to turn the nut. Ford's
documentation says "it could be right or left" - thanks guys The fan
shroud says "right hand thread on fan clutch," but I cannot be certain
it is the original shroud and/or pulley/clutch - I bought the truck only
a year ago.

Look at blades and visuallize which way the fan rotates to pull air through
the radiator. Turn the other way.

Wes

The clutch threads will be the same as the fan's rotation. So, if the
fan turns clockwise as viewed from the front, the clutch will unscrew
clockwise. They are usually not particularly tight, as the rotation
torque keeps them screwed down. A sharp blow usually suffices to break
them free.
JR
Dweller in the celar


Bill Schwab wrote:
Hello all,

I thought some of you might know what to do, hence the OT post. I have
a '96 F-150 2WD 4.9L, and a very badly needed new water pump. The fan
clutch nut stands between me and my goal.

I have what is supposedly the correct tool, though it does not seem to
grip very well. It is a little worn, which might be part of the
problem; and exchange is next on my list. I also plan to try a strap
wrench vs. the spanner to hold the pulley. It has PB Blaster working on
it as I type.

My real question is how to tell which way to turn the nut. Ford's
documentation says "it could be right or left" - thanks guys The fan
shroud says "right hand thread on fan clutch," but I cannot be certain
it is the original shroud and/or pulley/clutch - I bought the truck only
a year ago.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Bill



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Nov 5, 11:05 am, Bill Schwab wrote:
Hello all,

I have what is supposedly the correct tool, though it does not seem to
grip very well. It is a little worn, which might be part of the
problem; and exchange is next on my list. I also plan to try a strap
wrench vs. the spanner to hold the pulley. It has PB Blaster working on
it as I type.

My real question is how to tell which way to turn the nut. Ford's
documentation says "it could be right or left" - thanks guys The fan
shroud says "right hand thread on fan clutch," but I cannot be certain
it is the original shroud and/or pulley/clutch - I bought the truck only
a year ago.

Any ideas?

I recently changed the water pump on my F-250. Different animal, but
I built the holding tool from a piece of 3/4" flat bar, bent into a
radius similar to the pulley, and then both ends bolted onto a short
piece of channel. The channel protruded to catch on some part of the
engine and prevent the pulley from rotating.

The nut was right hand thread, but was 1 3/4". I had to buy a set
Harbor Freight jumbo wrenches just to have that size.

Gary Brady

On Nov 5, 10:05 am, Bill Schwab wrote:
Hello all,

I thought some of you might know what to do, hence the OT post. I have
a '96 F-150 2WD 4.9L, and a very badly needed new water pump. The fan
clutch nut stands between me and my goal.

I have what is supposedly the correct tool, though it does not seem to
grip very well. It is a little worn, which might be part of the
problem; and exchange is next on my list. I also plan to try a strap
wrench vs. the spanner to hold the pulley. It has PB Blaster working on
it as I type.

My real question is how to tell which way to turn the nut. Ford's
documentation says "it could be right or left" - thanks guys The fan
shroud says "right hand thread on fan clutch," but I cannot be certain
it is the original shroud and/or pulley/clutch - I bought the truck only
a year ago.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Bill

I got one of these "holding tools" for the van, apparently the pulley
isn't OEM because it in no way fit the thing. The same specialty tool
package(NAPA) had a wrench that did fit the hex flats on the clutch.
I ended up using a VIsegrip chain wrench to hold the pulley while
whapping the special wrench with a rawhide mallet to get the thing
loose. As other posters have said, check the fan rotation, the
threads are such that it tightens when running. After all you don't
want the fan clutch unscrewing when you're going down the road! On my
van, it's a left-hand thread. Spent a long time trying to screw the
clutch back on after some parts replacements, was cussing up a storm
when I realized that I was trying to screw it on the wrong direction.
Don't do this late at night with snow on the way!

On my van, I can't pull the radiator without pulling the fan clutch
and virtually anything on the front of the engine needs the fan shroud
out of the way to get access. I've gotten a lot of mileage out of the
special wrench and Visegrips.

A U-Pullit place is a good way to get some info on the various parts
combinations out there, I was amazed at how many different sizes of
clutches and fans were on the same nominal model of van. The buck
they charge around here for entrance is cheap tuition for figuring out
how to get parts out that the manuals don't cover very well.

A Visegrip chain wrench works very well, I busted several strap
wrenchs that used rubber or reinforced plastic straps. Just be
careful, it'll mar the pulley if you aren't. My buggy has flat belts,
not sure how you'd handle a V-belt pulley. Drill a couple of holes in
the hub area for a holding bar, maybe.

Stan

Hello all,

I thought some of you might know what to do, hence the OT post. I have
a '96 F-150 2WD 4.9L, and a very badly needed new water pump. The fan
clutch nut stands between me and my goal.

An update: my real problem turned out to be that neither set of fan
clutch tools provided by Autozone was correct, though picking a
spanner/holder from one set and wrench from the other did the job. The
original spanner had the correct width, but was not long enough to do a
proper job of holding the "far" bolt heads on the pulley; every time the
torque started to climb, it slipped.

Given the correct tools and a piece of Al tubing to add some leverage on
the tool not designed to accept a breaker bar, it came off without (too
much) difficulty.

The only problem I had with the water pump was that its tube for the
heater hose ended up too close to the alternator bracket, which would
have pinched the hose if properly installed. I loosened the water pump
bolts, put a piece of hose over the the tube as a spacer, and re-torqued
the bolts. The sealant and gasket appear to have survived the resulting
abuse, which happened about 30 minutes after initial installation.

Having been fooled by seals in small engine carburetors in the past, I
did a pressure test before buttoning up after the pump. A small hiss
"near the upper hose" turned out to be a leak at the plastic/metal
interface on the radiator, which I found with soap water. The second
radiator fit perfectly; they exchanged it w/o question. The fan clutch
was covered in black goop from its own innards, so I replaced it. About
the only things left are the head gasket (pleeeeezzzzz no!!!g) and the
heater core.

The battery cable clamps are hurting (next up), and there is an
intermittently failing panel bulb that will probably cause me to replace
a bunch of bulbs some time soon. In case you were wondering, NO, I most
definitely do NOT know what I am doing

Thanks to all who replied!

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
...
Hello all,

I thought some of you might know what to do, hence the OT post. I have a
'96 F-150 2WD 4.9L, and a very badly needed new water pump. The fan
clutch nut stands between me and my goal.

An update: my real problem turned out to be that neither set of fan clutch
tools provided by Autozone was correct, though picking a spanner/holder
from one set and wrench from the other did the job. The original spanner
had the correct width, but was not long enough to do a proper job of
holding the "far" bolt heads on the pulley; every time the torque started
to climb, it slipped.

Given the correct tools and a piece of Al tubing to add some leverage on
the tool not designed to accept a breaker bar, it came off without (too
much) difficulty.

The only problem I had with the water pump was that its tube for the
heater hose ended up too close to the alternator bracket, which would have
pinched the hose if properly installed. I loosened the water pump bolts,
put a piece of hose over the the tube as a spacer, and re-torqued the
bolts. The sealant and gasket appear to have survived the resulting
abuse, which happened about 30 minutes after initial installation.

Having been fooled by seals in small engine carburetors in the past, I did
a pressure test before buttoning up after the pump. A small hiss "near
the upper hose" turned out to be a leak at the plastic/metal interface on
the radiator, which I found with soap water. The second radiator fit
perfectly; they exchanged it w/o question. The fan clutch was covered in
black goop from its own innards, so I replaced it. About the only things
left are the head gasket (pleeeeezzzzz no!!!g) and the heater core.

The battery cable clamps are hurting (next up), and there is an
intermittently failing panel bulb that will probably cause me to replace a
bunch of bulbs some time soon. In case you were wondering, NO, I most
definitely do NOT know what I am doing

Thanks to all who replied!

Bill
But it sure sounds like you are learning. Good show. I learn a lot every
time I work on something, often a lot more than I anticipated.
Just started working on a Mopar 318 with the fuel pump cam and camshaft bolt
missing, huge gobs of red RTV instead of any head, intake manifold or pan
gaskets, and who knows what else.

Don Young

Don,

But it sure sounds like you are learning. Good show.

Thanks for that, but feel free to tell me whenever you see something
that should be done differently. The life you save might be mine


I learn a lot every
time I work on something, often a lot more than I anticipated.

Truer words have never been written. Or, as a friend of mine says with
varied experience, "it's always something."


Just started working on a Mopar 318 with the fuel pump cam and camshaft bolt
missing, huge gobs of red RTV instead of any head, intake manifold or pan
gaskets, and who knows what else.

Good luck with it! I am thinking of rebuilding a small engine or two
before attempting the real thing. There are two obvious possibilities
with different excuses to tear into them, and one with an actual reason
to at least check the crank case gasket. The latter is from a
generator. To be blunt, it apparently leaked from the beginning, but I
bought it before buying my truck, which indirectly contributed to my
misplacing the receipt[*], and I never did figure out how to exchange
it. The leak is slight enough that simply pouring some oil in it works
just fine (and it will theoretically shut off if the level gets low).
[*] I had receipts from the same day, but not the offending one. One of
those, keep the receipt, get the truck, come back here, etc.
arrangements. Maybe they stapled the receipt to the rental contract and
I tossed it??

Details aside, I assume that either the gasket is damaged, or more
likely, it is a casting defect. Hopefully it is a bump/burr that can be
removed rather than a hole that needs to be filled. Any suggestions if
it is the latter? Either way, I have read enough to know that I will be
setting end-play when I replace the cover, and want to be a little
careful since the generator currently works. Also, I have lots of
respect for small engine governors: incorrectly installed, they can
cause the engine to over-speed and turn into a bomb. The generator will
have active feedback control, but IIRC, there is still a simple linkage
to keep it from going nuts.

Another snag: the disassembly does not quite require unwinding the coils
in the generator, but they will probably arrange for that next time
Humor aside, the engine/generator interface is not very well designed.
I have what appears to be the correct shop manual, but it is not
terribly detailed.

If you have not seen it, take a look at Dave Floyd's "A Chrysler
Chronicle." It is a very interesting read, and buried in it is a
problem-based course in troubleshooting along with some good advice on
techniques. Note that you have probably moved beyond the point of it
teaching you a lot, but when I read it, it was a huge help. You would
probably still enjoy it.

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
...
Don,

But it sure sounds like you are learning. Good show.

Thanks for that, but feel free to tell me whenever you see something that
should be done differently. The life you save might be mine


I learn a lot every
time I work on something, often a lot more than I anticipated.

Truer words have never been written. Or, as a friend of mine says with
varied experience, "it's always something."


Just started working on a Mopar 318 with the fuel pump cam and camshaft
bolt missing, huge gobs of red RTV instead of any head, intake manifold
or pan gaskets, and who knows what else.

Good luck with it! I am thinking of rebuilding a small engine or two
before attempting the real thing. There are two obvious possibilities
with different excuses to tear into them, and one with an actual reason to
at least check the crank case gasket. The latter is from a generator. To
be blunt, it apparently leaked from the beginning, but I bought it before
buying my truck, which indirectly contributed to my misplacing the receipt
[*], and I never did figure out how to exchange it. The leak is slight
enough that simply pouring some oil in it works just fine (and it will
theoretically shut off if the level gets low).

[*] I had receipts from the same day, but not the offending one. One of
those, keep the receipt, get the truck, come back here, etc. arrangements.
Maybe they stapled the receipt to the rental contract and I tossed it??

Details aside, I assume that either the gasket is damaged, or more likely,
it is a casting defect. Hopefully it is a bump/burr that can be removed
rather than a hole that needs to be filled. Any suggestions if it is the
latter? Either way, I have read enough to know that I will be setting
end-play when I replace the cover, and want to be a little careful since
the generator currently works. Also, I have lots of respect for small
engine governors: incorrectly installed, they can cause the engine to
over-speed and turn into a bomb. The generator will have active feedback
control, but IIRC, there is still a simple linkage to keep it from going
nuts.

Another snag: the disassembly does not quite require unwinding the coils
in the generator, but they will probably arrange for that next time
Humor aside, the engine/generator interface is not very well designed. I
have what appears to be the correct shop manual, but it is not terribly
detailed.

If you have not seen it, take a look at Dave Floyd's "A Chrysler
Chronicle." It is a very interesting read, and buried in it is a
problem-based course in troubleshooting along with some good advice on
techniques. Note that you have probably moved beyond the point of it
teaching you a lot, but when I read it, it was a huge help. You would
probably still enjoy it.

Bill
If you get the casting clean and dry, JB Weld will generally fill any small
holes.

I am 76 years old and my Dad was a mechanic so I have been tinkering with
machinery for a very long time. I have learned quite a bit but everytime I
learn one new thing, they come up with a whole bunch of new ones. :-)
Luckily I have a background in electrical power and in electronic test
equipment so I am able to understand a fair amount of new things.

Don Young