Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Rust , oil , grease stains


Dawn dish soap has waxes to protect skin ,

and to chase spots on drying glassware .

so it does not remove cooking oil/grease

as fast as Laundry powder .

Dawn will not clean clothes .

Oils must be made slightly polar ,

Hot Lye and TSP will force oils to mix

with water w/o harm to cloth .

You simply blend the proper amt of water

for max economy , and your clothes will

last 20 years . Laundry powder will pH to

12 ! Thats skin softning range !
-----------------------------------

laundry powder is simply Tri-Sodium

Phosphate way diluted .


Liquid Laundry soaps lack the pH = 12

to cut the grease , so grease blocks the

stain removers .

so stain removers wont work .

Use TSP , rinse , apply :

1) enzymes for protein, blood . (ZOUT)
2) Naval Jelly for Rust ,
Blood has Iron , but ZOUT desolves
the Prt' which holds that microscopic
Fe (rust) , so use Naval Jelly last .
Now you can add softner !
ha ha lazy ppl want to use liquid , cause
it needs no/less softner !


Clorine bleach is oxidizer ( Sodium
HypoClorite 3-5% )
will interfere with the above !
Use it only if you are sure the tough
stains are out .


Bleach is oxidizer ..
oxyalic acid is both (Naval JellY )

-------------------------
Bluing is a dye , DONT use on warm
colors .

Some dirt stains need simply direct application
of powder or TSP and flexing the fibers .

Many strong chems wont do anything
til the temp is above 100 F , and concentration
is hi and you flex it into the cloth .

some U.V. coatings will wash away .

Lets start a discussion on them ..

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Default Rust , oil , grease stains



werty wrote:

laundry powder is simply Tri-Sodium

Phosphate way diluted .

That has not been true for at least 40 years - that's why they still
say "no phosphate" on the box.

Jon

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