I need to build a "small production" grade machine to cut 1/16 (d) X 1/32
(w)
slots in a small 1/2 X 1/2 round standoff. Round aluminum 1/2 D x 1/2 tall
with
1/4-20 tapped through. The slots dissect the end (bottom or top of the
cylinder)
dead center in the middle. This is used as a directional indicator. Imagine
the
round end with thin line dissecting the center to show rotation.

We have been using a small band saw modified with a jig to accept the
cylinder end threaded on a short rod. This is a rather slow process as each
standoff must be screwed on the rod prior to cutting the slot then
unscrewed.
I envision a small "table saw" style machine that simply has a channel
slightly larger that the standoff, say .312 and a small saw blade that
protrudes 1/16 above the table. An operator simply slides the standoff along
the channel and a slot is cut. I only have to make 5-6K of these a year and
so it is a real low production run.

Any ideas floating around out there?? I need to think the Operator safety
through but don't need to automate it unless it is really a no brain'er add
on.
Your comments are always appreciated.


Pedroman

In article QGj7c.54379$Cb.841416@attbi_s51, Pedroman says...

Any ideas floating around out there??

Use a horizontal mill with a slotting saw to slot long
lengths, stacked up in a vise. Then use a cutoff tool
in a lathe to part them off.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

I guess you want a slot in the end of the 1/2" long aluminum piece. The
slot is 1/32" wide by 1/16" deep, for a visual reference.

In my interpretation, you could use a 3" slitting saw to make the slot in a
straight plunge motion. The radius should have no effect no the slot. ???

If so, here is a way.

If the blade is rotating in a horizontal plane..

"Theoretically" you could push the "Tube" with the 1/4-20 thread axis
pointing toward the vertical axis of the cutter, on line with the center of
the .031" thick blade.

Then push it to a stop to cut into the tube end 1/16 of an inch.

So what might the fixture look like?

Start with a 3/4" cube of aluminum. Drill a .502" (slip fit for the tube)
hole down almost through, leaving about a .050" floor to make a "stop."
Leave the floor pretty flat.

Lay the fixture over leaving the hole lay sideways.

Mill the opposite end half way down, into the hole, exposing a half round
trough. Machine this trough toward the "stop" end leaving about 3/16"
creating a round "housing" for the tube, which will hold the tube for
slitting.

On the other end mill half way down plus .015" to expose the slitting saw
area leaving the stop. Mill this cut about 1/16" past the stop. Or just
past the stop. The slitting blade can ride in it's own slot. Whatever. *S

Anyhow, Put the fixture in a vise set the slitting blade to the proper
height and depth. Lay the part in the trough and slide it in to the stop.
Oh! Turn on the machine. *S You should be able to chase these parts in and
out pretty fast. I'd use a spray mist with enough air to clear the chips.

I hope you can understand this. I've used this idea before. It should be
fast.

Regards,

Stan- Let me know. Please!





"Pedroman" wrote in message
news:QGj7c.54379$Cb.841416@attbi_s51...
I need to build a "small production" grade machine to cut 1/16 (d) X 1/32
(w)
slots in a small 1/2 X 1/2 round standoff. Round aluminum 1/2 D x 1/2 tall
with
1/4-20 tapped through. The slots dissect the end (bottom or top of the
cylinder)
dead center in the middle. This is used as a directional indicator.
Imagine
the
round end with thin line dissecting the center to show rotation.

We have been using a small band saw modified with a jig to accept the
cylinder end threaded on a short rod. This is a rather slow process as
each
standoff must be screwed on the rod prior to cutting the slot then
unscrewed.
I envision a small "table saw" style machine that simply has a channel
slightly larger that the standoff, say .312 and a small saw blade that
protrudes 1/16 above the table. An operator simply slides the standoff
along
the channel and a slot is cut. I only have to make 5-6K of these a year
and
so it is a real low production run.

Any ideas floating around out there?? I need to think the Operator safety
through but don't need to automate it unless it is really a no brain'er
add
on.
Your comments are always appreciated.


Pedroman

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 16:47:44 GMT, "Pedroman"
wrote:

I need to build a "small production" grade machine to cut 1/16 (d) X 1/32
(w)
slots in a small 1/2 X 1/2 round standoff. Round aluminum 1/2 D x 1/2 tall
with
1/4-20 tapped through. The slots dissect the end (bottom or top of the
cylinder)
dead center in the middle. This is used as a directional indicator. Imagine
the
round end with thin line dissecting the center to show rotation.

We have been using a small band saw modified with a jig to accept the
cylinder end threaded on a short rod. This is a rather slow process as each
standoff must be screwed on the rod prior to cutting the slot then
unscrewed.
I envision a small "table saw" style machine that simply has a channel
slightly larger that the standoff, say .312 and a small saw blade that
protrudes 1/16 above the table. An operator simply slides the standoff along
the channel and a slot is cut. I only have to make 5-6K of these a year and
so it is a real low production run.

Any ideas floating around out there?? I need to think the Operator safety
through but don't need to automate it unless it is really a no brain'er add
on.
Your comments are always appreciated.


Pedroman


Greetings Pedroman,
I think you are on the right track. What I would do though is machine
a slot about 1 1/2 inches wide and 5/16 inch deep in either delrin or
nylon. Then, machine a block that's 3 inches long, 1 1/2 wide, and
5/16 thick. Into this block drill a 3/8 hole through and a 1/2 flat
bottom hole 1/4 deep. Stick your part in the hole and slide the block
over the blade. The blade would always be covered by the plastic and
the sliding block and the part would be trapped in the sliding block.
The part can also be held tight against the bottom of the hole but
won't be dragging when sliding. Since the blade will only be sticking
up .062 into the 1/2 hole some one would really have to try to get
hurt and even then would only have a 1/16 deep slot in their finger.
I would do this for even 1000 parts. Setup would be real easy and even
a regular table saw with the right blade could be used. Just drill a
couple holes through the plastic block into the table saw table when
it's set up the first time. Then shoulder screws could be used to hold
the plastic guide in place if the table is tapped.
Cheers,
Eric

Sounds like what I use for de-burring cut-off tits. Except I clamp the
fixture in a tool holder on the lathe, with a slitting saw on an arbor
locked in the collet. Set the depth to just kiss the end of the part,
give the part a twist (180 - 360 degrees) and it leaves a little
starburst shaped mark on the end of the part. Works for some parts!

Either that, or get yourself a Barker benchtop hand operated
horizontal mill, pick up a 3 or 5C collet holder and your good to go.
You could probably slot them in 5 seconds or less, including loading
time. You ought to be about to find one pretty cheap. Have 2 of them
collecting dust. Picked them both up for $150. Both work great as long
as you don't try to hold better than +/-.002".

Matt

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 11:57:23 -0800, "Stanley Dornfeld"
wrote:

I guess you want a slot in the end of the 1/2" long aluminum piece. The
slot is 1/32" wide by 1/16" deep, for a visual reference.

In my interpretation, you could use a 3" slitting saw to make the slot =
in a
straight plunge motion. The radius should have no effect no the slot. =
???

If so, here is a way.

If the blade is rotating in a horizontal plane..

"Theoretically" you could push the "Tube" with the 1/4-20 thread axis
pointing toward the vertical axis of the cutter, on line with the center=
of
the .031" thick blade.

Then push it to a stop to cut into the tube end 1/16 of an inch.

So what might the fixture look like?

Start with a 3/4" cube of aluminum. Drill a .502" (slip fit for the =
tube)
hole down almost through, leaving about a .050" floor to make a "stop."
Leave the floor pretty flat.

Lay the fixture over leaving the hole lay sideways.

Mill the opposite end half way down, into the hole, exposing a half =
round
trough. Machine this trough toward the "stop" end leaving about 3/16"
creating a round "housing" for the tube, which will hold the tube for
slitting.

On the other end mill half way down plus .015" to expose the slitting =
saw
area leaving the stop. Mill this cut about 1/16" past the stop. Or =
just
past the stop. The slitting blade can ride in it's own slot. Whatever.=
*S

Anyhow, Put the fixture in a vise set the slitting blade to the proper
height and depth. Lay the part in the trough and slide it in to the =
stop.
Oh! Turn on the machine. *S You should be able to chase these parts in=
and
out pretty fast. I'd use a spray mist with enough air to clear the =
chips.

I hope you can understand this. I've used this idea before. It should =
be
fast.

Regards,

Stan- Let me know. Please!





"Pedroman" wrote in message
news:QGj7c.54379$Cb.841416@attbi_s51...
I need to build a "small production" grade machine to cut 1/16 (d) X =
1/32
(w)
slots in a small 1/2 X 1/2 round standoff. Round aluminum 1/2 D x 1/2 =
tall
with
1/4-20 tapped through. The slots dissect the end (bottom or top of the
cylinder)
dead center in the middle. This is used as a directional indicator.
Imagine
the
round end with thin line dissecting the center to show rotation.

We have been using a small band saw modified with a jig to accept the
cylinder end threaded on a short rod. This is a rather slow process as
each
standoff must be screwed on the rod prior to cutting the slot then
unscrewed.
I envision a small "table saw" style machine that simply has a channel
slightly larger that the standoff, say .312 and a small saw blade that
protrudes 1/16 above the table. An operator simply slides the standoff
along
the channel and a slot is cut. I only have to make 5-6K of these a =
year
and
so it is a real low production run.

Any ideas floating around out there?? I need to think the Operator =
safety
through but don't need to automate it unless it is really a no =
brain'er
add
on.
Your comments are always appreciated.


Pedroman

Right, classic job for a "hand mill" I picked up a couple of nice
floor models last week, but the benchtop type might be more
appropriate. With the right jig you could do 10-20 at a time. My
real email address is paulhagenATinsightbbDOTcom. Depending on your
location, shipping would probably cost you more than the machine.
Paul

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