Sounds like what I use for de-burring cut-off tits. Except I clamp the
fixture in a tool holder on the lathe, with a slitting saw on an arbor
locked in the collet. Set the depth to just kiss the end of the part,
give the part a twist (180 - 360 degrees) and it leaves a little
starburst shaped mark on the end of the part. Works for some parts!

Either that, or get yourself a Barker benchtop hand operated
horizontal mill, pick up a 3 or 5C collet holder and your good to go.
You could probably slot them in 5 seconds or less, including loading
time. You ought to be about to find one pretty cheap. Have 2 of them
collecting dust. Picked them both up for $150. Both work great as long
as you don't try to hold better than +/-.002".

Matt

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 11:57:23 -0800, "Stanley Dornfeld"
wrote:

I guess you want a slot in the end of the 1/2" long aluminum piece. The
slot is 1/32" wide by 1/16" deep, for a visual reference.

In my interpretation, you could use a 3" slitting saw to make the slot =
in a
straight plunge motion. The radius should have no effect no the slot. =
???

If so, here is a way.

If the blade is rotating in a horizontal plane..

"Theoretically" you could push the "Tube" with the 1/4-20 thread axis
pointing toward the vertical axis of the cutter, on line with the center=
of
the .031" thick blade.

Then push it to a stop to cut into the tube end 1/16 of an inch.

So what might the fixture look like?

Start with a 3/4" cube of aluminum. Drill a .502" (slip fit for the =
tube)
hole down almost through, leaving about a .050" floor to make a "stop."
Leave the floor pretty flat.

Lay the fixture over leaving the hole lay sideways.

Mill the opposite end half way down, into the hole, exposing a half =
round
trough. Machine this trough toward the "stop" end leaving about 3/16"
creating a round "housing" for the tube, which will hold the tube for
slitting.

On the other end mill half way down plus .015" to expose the slitting =
saw
area leaving the stop. Mill this cut about 1/16" past the stop. Or =
just
past the stop. The slitting blade can ride in it's own slot. Whatever.=
*S

Anyhow, Put the fixture in a vise set the slitting blade to the proper
height and depth. Lay the part in the trough and slide it in to the =
stop.
Oh! Turn on the machine. *S You should be able to chase these parts in=
and
out pretty fast. I'd use a spray mist with enough air to clear the =
chips.

I hope you can understand this. I've used this idea before. It should =
be
fast.

Regards,

Stan- Let me know. Please!





"Pedroman" wrote in message
news:QGj7c.54379$Cb.841416@attbi_s51...
I need to build a "small production" grade machine to cut 1/16 (d) X =
1/32
(w)
slots in a small 1/2 X 1/2 round standoff. Round aluminum 1/2 D x 1/2 =
tall
with
1/4-20 tapped through. The slots dissect the end (bottom or top of the
cylinder)
dead center in the middle. This is used as a directional indicator.
Imagine
the
round end with thin line dissecting the center to show rotation.

We have been using a small band saw modified with a jig to accept the
cylinder end threaded on a short rod. This is a rather slow process as
each
standoff must be screwed on the rod prior to cutting the slot then
unscrewed.
I envision a small "table saw" style machine that simply has a channel
slightly larger that the standoff, say .312 and a small saw blade that
protrudes 1/16 above the table. An operator simply slides the standoff
along
the channel and a slot is cut. I only have to make 5-6K of these a =
year
and
so it is a real low production run.

Any ideas floating around out there?? I need to think the Operator =
safety
through but don't need to automate it unless it is really a no =
brain'er
add
on.
Your comments are always appreciated.


Pedroman