OK, spent the last two nights reading thru the NG archives, and I just have
a couple of questions left. Trying to do some Aluminum welding (.125 thick
fillet welding 6061) with a Miller Dialarc, which was used mostly for
general steel welding.
Here is what I have:
Pure argon bottle, thiorated tungstens, Weldcraft 26V torch, 4 hole
collets...

after some reading here is my shopping list:
3/32 - Zirc or Lanthanated tungstens
5356 & 4043 - 3/32 rod (local welding supply shop recommended)
gas lens collet

A few questions:
Is that torch OK for this type of work?
I found an online source that shows a gas lens collet for this torch, but
they list small, medium and large gas lens collet... not sure which one I
would need. I will not be able to call them until next week, so I thought
asking the group here would get me on track sooner.
What sizes of ceramic cups should I have on hand... I only have .500 ID
(which I guess is #8) right now.
How can I determine what "series" the torch is? Reading alot about Series
2, 3 and the CK series #4, and would like to know what this one is.
And finally... Is there a fair priced Welding supply shop preferably in
Canada? Local shop (Air Liquide) wants $83.56 (CDN... - about $60 bucks US)
for a box of ten 3/32 Zirconiated tungstens... I am finding them online for
MUCH cheaper, but would need a bit of lead time, which I have the
flexibility for in this project.

That is all for now... probably have a few more items as this tig newbie
gets going!

Thanks to all for any helpful posts, much appreciated!
ryan

In article Kew6c.253034$Hy3.41256@edtnps89, Ryan
wrote:

OK, spent the last two nights reading thru the NG archives, and I just have
a couple of questions left. Trying to do some Aluminum welding (.125 thick
fillet welding 6061)

0.125" aluminum = 125 amps base + 30% for inside fillet weld = 166 amps.


with a Miller Dialarc, which was used mostly for
general steel welding.

There are a lot of machines called Dialarcs.
A more specific description would be needed to evaluate.
As long as it has continuous high freq for AC then yes you can weld
aluminum with it.

If it is DC only then you will have to use a much larger tungsten and
use DCEP.


Here is what I have:
Pure argon bottle, thiorated tungstens, Weldcraft 26V torch, 4 hole
collets...


A 26 torch is a 200 amp air cooled torch.
This can be used to weld AC or DCEP, but being air cooled means it will
heat up pretty quick on aluminum, so plan on letting it cool down.
A small muffin fan with a cradle in front of it can be used to speed
the cooling process.


after some reading here is my shopping list:
3/32 - Zirc or Lanthanated tungstens
5356 & 4043 - 3/32 rod (local welding supply shop recommended)
gas lens collet

A few questions:
Is that torch OK for this type of work?

In theory, yes.

I found an online source that shows a gas lens collet for this torch, but
they list small, medium and large gas lens collet... not sure which one I
would need. I will not be able to call them until next week, so I thought
asking the group here would get me on track sooner.
What sizes of ceramic cups should I have on hand... I only have .500 ID
(which I guess is #8) right now.


3/32" and 1/8" #3 series gas lens collet bodies, and #8 gas lens gas
cups should be fine.

How can I determine what "series" the torch is? Reading alot about Series
2, 3

Yours is a #3 series torch.

and the CK series #4

#4 series parts are a CK invention to allow a smaller torch head.
They ahve he mounting threads of a #3 series, but use #2 series gas
cups.
The only downside to #4 series parts is that you can't use a full 7"
tungsten with them.
Also they are smaller so on an air cooled torch they will heat up
faster than normal #3 series parts.


, and would like to know what this one is.
And finally... Is there a fair priced Welding supply shop preferably in
Canada? Local shop (Air Liquide) wants $83.56 (CDN... - about $60 bucks US)
for a box of ten 3/32 Zirconiated tungstens... I am finding them online for
MUCH cheaper, but would need a bit of lead time, which I have the
flexibility for in this project.

That is all for now... probably have a few more items as this tig newbie
gets going!

Thanks to all for any helpful posts, much appreciated!
ryan



Check in on the main welding newsgroup.

sci.engr.joining.welding

Thank you Ernie,

The unit is indeed a HF, 250 amp. Not at the shop now, so I cannot get any
more specific regarding model number.

Got the parts today, and tried it all out. Beadblasted the parts prior to
welding, and kept a stainless wire brush handy. Used a zirc 3/32 tungsten,
1/16 5356 rod, and the new gas lens (NEAT), and fired it up. Still enough
of a newbie to have some "gravitational pull" problems into the puddle, but
the welding went better than expected.

I am welding a solid 3/8 diameter rod 90 degrees to .125 plate. I have
welded the exact same parts in steel, and now in aluminum. The results in
steel had much less weld build-up around the base of the joint. Am I adding
too much filler with aluminum? It does not feel like I am, but the
difference between the amount of weld at the base when comparing the steel
parts, I had made out of aluminum is significant. I suppose a picture is
worth a thousand words so maybe I can post a comparison shot in the dropbox.

Thanks again, Ryan

In article IVN6c.1669$Me2.1506@clgrps13, Ryan
wrote:

Thank you Ernie,

The unit is indeed a HF, 250 amp. Not at the shop now, so I cannot get any
more specific regarding model number.

Got the parts today, and tried it all out. Beadblasted the parts prior to
welding, and kept a stainless wire brush handy. Used a zirc 3/32 tungsten,
1/16 5356 rod, and the new gas lens (NEAT), and fired it up. Still enough
of a newbie to have some "gravitational pull" problems into the puddle, but
the welding went better than expected.

I am welding a solid 3/8 diameter rod 90 degrees to .125 plate. I have
welded the exact same parts in steel, and now in aluminum. The results in
steel had much less weld build-up around the base of the joint. Am I adding
too much filler with aluminum? It does not feel like I am, but the
difference between the amount of weld at the base when comparing the steel
parts, I had made out of aluminum is significant. I suppose a picture is
worth a thousand words so maybe I can post a comparison shot in the dropbox.

Thanks again, Ryan



If you want a hidden weld.
Drill a hole in the plate, countersink the back side and bevel the end
of the rod.
When you slip the rod into the plate on the backside you will have a
circular V-groove.
Weld it on the backside and grind it flush.

Not quite as strong, but much prettier.