Hi Group:

I am trying to wire a heavy duty push button switch. (push for on, push the
other button for off). I am planning to switch a 3 HP 220V 1 Phase motor
for my homebuilt drum sander. The switch is rated for 220 Volts, 30 amps,
which should be fine, as the motor pulls only 16 ams.

The swith came from someone's junk pile (mine...vbg), as did most of the
parts for this drum sander. Now that I have a finally use for this switch,
there is no schematic in the switch box. There are two, spring loaded push
button blocks with each block having 4 screw in terminals. Two terminals are
on the "upper block or top plate," where the plunger is mounted, and two on
the lower block (bottom plate) that the plunger contacts. The plungers are
in the middle of each terminal block.

OFF BUTTON ON BUTTON
BLOCK BLOCK
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

Top Bottom Top Bottom
Plate Plate Plate Plate

Pushing each plunger contacts the lower block, but when released, both pop
back up. I am assuming you need to jumper somehow between the OFF block and
the ON block terminals, but which ones? Oh, and by the way there is a
panel light that uses 125 volts to light...I am not planning on running two
hots PLUS a neutral, so I think the light is out...

THANKS for any help..

Steve Koschmann

In article k.net, Steve
Koschamnn says...

Hi Group:

I am trying to wire a heavy duty push button switch. (push for on, push the
other button for off). I am planning to switch a 3 HP 220V 1 Phase motor
for my homebuilt drum sander. The switch is rated for 220 Volts, 30 amps,
which should be fine, as the motor pulls only 16 ams.

The swith came from someone's junk pile (mine...vbg), as did most of the
parts for this drum sander. Now that I have a finally use for this switch,
there is no schematic in the switch box. There are two, spring loaded push
button blocks with each block having 4 screw in terminals. Two terminals are
on the "upper block or top plate," where the plunger is mounted, and two on
the lower block (bottom plate) that the plunger contacts. The plungers are
in the middle of each terminal block.

OFF BUTTON ON BUTTON
BLOCK BLOCK
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

Top Bottom Top Bottom
Plate Plate Plate Plate

Pushing each plunger contacts the lower block, but when released, both pop
back up. I am assuming you need to jumper somehow between the OFF block and
the ON block terminals, but which ones? Oh, and by the way there is a
panel light that uses 125 volts to light...I am not planning on running two
hots PLUS a neutral, so I think the light is out...

Those push buttons are most often used in conjuction with a
magnetic contactor. Unfortunately they are most often momentary
on or off. The on button is used to briefly energize the contactor,
and it has a holding contact to hold it in. The off button opens
up the hold circuit to drop it back out.

If that's the sort of switches you have, I don't think you can
achieve what you want using only them.

Jim

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please reply to:
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Steve Koschamnn wrote:
Hi Group:

I am trying to wire a heavy duty push button switch. (push for on,
push the other button for off). I am planning to switch a 3 HP 220V
1 Phase motor for my homebuilt drum sander. The switch is rated for
220 Volts, 30 amps, which should be fine, as the motor pulls only 16
ams.

The swith came from someone's junk pile (mine...vbg), as did most
of the parts for this drum sander. Now that I have a finally use for
this switch, there is no schematic in the switch box. There are
two, spring loaded push button blocks with each block having 4 screw
in terminals. Two terminals are on the "upper block or top plate,"
where the plunger is mounted, and two on the lower block (bottom
plate) that the plunger contacts. The plungers are in the middle of
each terminal block.

OFF BUTTON ON BUTTON
BLOCK BLOCK
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

Top Bottom Top Bottom
Plate Plate Plate Plate

Pushing each plunger contacts the lower block, but when released,
both pop back up. I am assuming you need to jumper somehow between
the OFF block and the ON block terminals, but which ones? Oh, and
by the way there is a panel light that uses 125 volts to light...I am
not planning on running two hots PLUS a neutral, so I think the light
is out...

THANKS for any help..

Steve Koschmann

Start/Stop or On/OFF pushbutton switches are usually used with a separate
magnetic contactor. The start button (normally open) provides momentary
power to a holding coil. Once the coil pulls in, it stays energized via its
own auxiliary contact unless the (normally closed) stop button is pushed in.
Stop buttons are wired in series with the power to the coil so that any stop
button will drop out power to the coil. The older, self contained start/stop
controls that don't work with a contactor typically stay in when you push
them and don't have the safety features inherent in a start/stop circuit.

"ATP" wrote in message
...
Steve Koschamnn wrote:
Hi Group:

I am trying to wire a heavy duty push button switch. (push for on,
push the other button for off). I am planning to switch a 3 HP 220V
1 Phase motor for my homebuilt drum sander. The switch is rated for
220 Volts, 30 amps, which should be fine, as the motor pulls only 16
ams.

The swith came from someone's junk pile (mine...vbg), as did most
of the parts for this drum sander. Now that I have a finally use for
this switch, there is no schematic in the switch box. There are
two, spring loaded push button blocks with each block having 4 screw
in terminals. Two terminals are on the "upper block or top plate,"
where the plunger is mounted, and two on the lower block (bottom
plate) that the plunger contacts. The plungers are in the middle of
each terminal block.

OFF BUTTON ON BUTTON
BLOCK BLOCK
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

Top Bottom Top Bottom
Plate Plate Plate Plate

Pushing each plunger contacts the lower block, but when released,
both pop back up. I am assuming you need to jumper somehow between
the OFF block and the ON block terminals, but which ones? Oh, and
by the way there is a panel light that uses 125 volts to light...I am
not planning on running two hots PLUS a neutral, so I think the light
is out...

THANKS for any help..

Steve Koschmann

Start/Stop or On/OFF pushbutton switches are usually used with a separate
magnetic contactor. The start button (normally open) provides momentary
power to a holding coil. Once the coil pulls in, it stays energized via
its
own auxiliary contact unless the (normally closed) stop button is pushed
in.
Stop buttons are wired in series with the power to the coil so that any
stop
button will drop out power to the coil. The older, self contained
start/stop
controls that don't work with a contactor typically stay in when you push
them and don't have the safety features inherent in a start/stop circuit.



http://www.ee.polyu.edu.hk/staff/een...2/chapter5.htm

Some pretty good schematics towards the bottom of the page.

--

SVL

Your start/stop button needs to be used with a motor starter, commonly
called a "mag switch" in the US and a "no-volt release" in the UK. There
is a real cheap book called Ugley's (maybe $6US) available at most electrical
supply houses. Here is a schematic from it which may help:
http://www.tinyisland.com/images/ugleys1.gif

Grant

In article ,
says...

Start/Stop or On/OFF pushbutton switches are usually used with a separate
magnetic contactor. The start button (normally open) provides momentary
power to a holding coil. Once the coil pulls in, it stays energized via its
own auxiliary contact unless the (normally closed) stop button is pushed in.
Stop buttons are wired in series with the power to the coil so that any stop
button will drop out power to the coil. The older, self contained start/stop
controls that don't work with a contactor typically stay in when you push
them and don't have the safety features inherent in a start/stop circuit.


There are manual starters that include motor overload
protection. If the overload is tripped they will behave as
the OP described--the start button will not stay engaged
when pressed. It's not at all clear to me whether he has a
complete manual starting switch or just the start/stop
buttons for a magnetic starter. A photo would help.

Ned Simmons