Couple of days ago, I hit upon a great way to whiten engraved marks in steel
dials and such. "Whiteout" correction fluid.. Daub it on with just the
tips of the bristles. Then scrape off the excess with your finger nail.
Finally clean up the surrounding area with very gentle swipes of almost dry
acetone on a rag. You want to swipe over the mark with just enough acetone
to remove the excess Whiteout; dry enough to not soak into the whitened
depression.

Special paints are made for this, but Whiteout is quick and cheap, and
fairly long lived AGAICT. On my spin indexer, I whitened critical marks
such as the ( ) pointer, and ( 0 ); and geometrically significant numbers
like 60, 90, 120, 180, 240, 270, 300.

Bob Swinney

Hey Bob,

I've used it for that too. In fact, I buy both the "brush" stuff, and
the pen type, and the marker type. Great stuff all round. Works
great for writing on metals and dark stuff too. And CHEAP!!!!

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:21:32 -0500, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

Couple of days ago, I hit upon a great way to whiten engraved marks in steel
dials and such. "Whiteout" correction fluid.. Daub it on with just the
tips of the bristles. Then scrape off the excess with your finger nail.
Finally clean up the surrounding area with very gentle swipes of almost dry
acetone on a rag. You want to swipe over the mark with just enough acetone
to remove the excess Whiteout; dry enough to not soak into the whitened
depression.

Special paints are made for this, but Whiteout is quick and cheap, and
fairly long lived AGAICT. On my spin indexer, I whitened critical marks
such as the ( ) pointer, and ( 0 ); and geometrically significant numbers
like 60, 90, 120, 180, 240, 270, 300.

Bob Swinney

Brian,

Did you go to N.A.M.E.S.this year? Did you help them find Mike Graham? I
remember you guys live in about the same general area.

I can't make N.A.M.E.S. this time. Blew the budget on a steamboat cruise on
the Mississippi Queen. I do get to see an interestring steam engine,
though. The Queen's Engines have a 10 foot stroke.

Bob Swinney

Bob Swinney
"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
...
Hey Bob,

I've used it for that too. In fact, I buy both the "brush" stuff, and
the pen type, and the marker type. Great stuff all round. Works
great for writing on metals and dark stuff too. And CHEAP!!!!

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:21:32 -0500, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

Couple of days ago, I hit upon a great way to whiten engraved marks in
steel
dials and such. "Whiteout" correction fluid.. Daub it on with just the
tips of the bristles. Then scrape off the excess with your finger nail.
Finally clean up the surrounding area with very gentle swipes of almost
dry
acetone on a rag. You want to swipe over the mark with just enough
acetone
to remove the excess Whiteout; dry enough to not soak into the whitened
depression.

Special paints are made for this, but Whiteout is quick and cheap, and
fairly long lived AGAICT. On my spin indexer, I whitened critical marks
such as the ( ) pointer, and ( 0 ); and geometrically significant
numbers
like 60, 90, 120, 180, 240, 270, 300.

Bob Swinney

On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:21:32 -0500, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

Couple of days ago, I hit upon a great way to whiten engraved marks in steel
dials and such. "Whiteout" correction fluid.. Daub it on with just the
tips of the bristles. Then scrape off the excess with your finger nail.
Finally clean up the surrounding area with very gentle swipes of almost dry
acetone on a rag. You want to swipe over the mark with just enough acetone
to remove the excess Whiteout; dry enough to not soak into the whitened
depression.

Special paints are made for this, but Whiteout is quick and cheap, and
fairly long lived AGAICT. On my spin indexer, I whitened critical marks
such as the ( ) pointer, and ( 0 ); and geometrically significant numbers
like 60, 90, 120, 180, 240, 270, 300.

Bob Swinney

Whiteout works pretty good on the lettering on firearms and the front
sight too.

Gunner

"I think this is because of your belief in biological Marxism.
As a genetic communist you feel that noticing behavioural
patterns relating to race would cause a conflict with your belief
in biological Marxism." Big Pete, famous Usenet Racist

On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:35:42 GMT, Gunner wrote:

Whiteout works pretty good on the lettering on firearms and the front
sight too.

Ah, for photographing markings, in a way that doesn't permanently alter
the gun?

On 25 Apr 2006 22:09:54 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Tue, 25 Apr 2006 21:35:42 GMT, Gunner wrote:

Whiteout works pretty good on the lettering on firearms and the front
sight too.

Ah, for photographing markings, in a way that doesn't permanently alter
the gun?

Correct. Or simply for "dress up" and adding to whatever "cool factor"
it may have. Some folks use gold inlay/paint to make it a bit
dressier.

The front sight use of course is obvious.

Gunner

"I think this is because of your belief in biological Marxism.
As a genetic communist you feel that noticing behavioural
patterns relating to race would cause a conflict with your belief
in biological Marxism." Big Pete, famous Usenet Racist

I have done lots of color filling and finally mastered it. First, the
marking must be quite deep and without a burr.
Clean the object well by dipping in acetone or naptha. When dry apply
the laquer of choice.It can be pretty heavy.
open up an old white pages phone book
and blot the surface ink off. Just press it down, move to clean spot,
repeat until only a very thin film is left. ley dry overnight.
Take some scotch transparent tape and lift off that residue. If that
doesn't quite get it use auto wax and a soft cloth to finish it up. I
like KIT liquidwax