Is there a good way to fill pits (up to .150" diameter) in an aluminum
casting (a motorcycle chaincase) so that it can be powder coated? The
powder coating process subjects the part to 400 degrees F., so I think
plastic fillers would not stand up.

I imagine gas welding would do it, but I don't know that I could do it.

"Joe Landau" wrote in message
. ..
Is there a good way to fill pits (up to .150" diameter) in an aluminum
casting (a motorcycle chaincase) so that it can be powder coated? The
powder coating process subjects the part to 400 degrees F., so I think
plastic fillers would not stand up.

I imagine gas welding would do it, but I don't know that I could do it.

Welding on the cover wouldn't be smart. You'd likely distort it to the
point of being useless. Can't offer a better suggestion, but I'd vote
welding out.

Harold

"Joe Landau" wrote in message
. ..
Is there a good way to fill pits (up to .150" diameter) in an aluminum
casting (a motorcycle chaincase) so that it can be powder coated? The
powder coating process subjects the part to 400 degrees F., so I think
plastic fillers would not stand up.

I imagine gas welding would do it, but I don't know that I could do it.


Powder coating relies on the part being conductive to electrostatically
attract the powder prior to baking - the powder may not stick to the surface
where there are filled holes. Just a guess - I'm not an expert in this -
someone else may know for sure.
Are you using a different power coating method??

rob

"Joe Landau" wrote in message
. ..
Is there a good way to fill pits (up to .150" diameter) in an aluminum
casting (a motorcycle chaincase) so that it can be powder coated? The
powder coating process subjects the part to 400 degrees F., so I think
plastic fillers would not stand up.

I imagine gas welding would do it, but I don't know that I could do it.

I use a material called "Lab Metal" to fill pits and imperfections in cast
aluminum
thermoforming molds. Amazing stuff. One part aluminum putty, comes in two
versions,
regular and high heat. The high heat will take 1000 F IIRC, the regular
around 400 + F.
Not cheap, but a little can goes a long way. I get it at the local welding
supply store.
Also available at the local FASTENAL store, and probably at an industrial
supplier near you.

We use it also... before powder coating.
Eastwood Co has it online: http://makeashorterlink.com/?E2D5164EC
David


"Bill Marrs" wrote in message
news:_3wXf.9580$dU3.2243@trnddc01...

"Joe Landau" wrote in message
. ..
Is there a good way to fill pits (up to .150" diameter) in an aluminum
casting (a motorcycle chaincase) so that it can be powder coated? The
powder coating process subjects the part to 400 degrees F., so I think
plastic fillers would not stand up.

I imagine gas welding would do it, but I don't know that I could do it.

I use a material called "Lab Metal" to fill pits and imperfections in
cast aluminum
thermoforming molds. Amazing stuff. One part aluminum putty, comes in two
versions,
regular and high heat. The high heat will take 1000 F IIRC, the regular
around 400 + F.
Not cheap, but a little can goes a long way. I get it at the local
welding supply store.
Also available at the local FASTENAL store, and probably at an industrial
supplier near you.

"Joe Landau" wrote in message
. ..
| Is there a good way to fill pits (up to .150" diameter) in an aluminum
| casting (a motorcycle chaincase) so that it can be powder coated? The
| powder coating process subjects the part to 400 degrees F., so I think
| plastic fillers would not stand up.
|
| I imagine gas welding would do it, but I don't know that I could do it.

Why not that aluminum brazing filler rod? Conductive too.

Static electricity will stick the power on anything.
I'd say bondo or such - but how does that react with heat ? - I guess well
since the hoods and fenders of cars get rather hot.

But how about power coat melt hot ?

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member


Rob wrote:
"Joe Landau" wrote in message
. ..

Is there a good way to fill pits (up to .150" diameter) in an aluminum
casting (a motorcycle chaincase) so that it can be powder coated? The
powder coating process subjects the part to 400 degrees F., so I think
plastic fillers would not stand up.

I imagine gas welding would do it, but I don't know that I could do it.



Powder coating relies on the part being conductive to electrostatically
attract the powder prior to baking - the powder may not stick to the surface
where there are filled holes. Just a guess - I'm not an expert in this -
someone else may know for sure.
Are you using a different power coating method??

rob



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Joe Landau wrote in
:

Is there a good way to fill pits (up to .150" diameter) in an aluminum
casting (a motorcycle chaincase) so that it can be powder coated? The
powder coating process subjects the part to 400 degrees F., so I think
plastic fillers would not stand up.

I imagine gas welding would do it, but I don't know that I could do it.

I think I'll try the aluminum brazing (or maybe it's soldering) rod first.
A number of people on the net have reported success. Thanks.

Joe

Goodness me, look, here's an excellent tip from some one in the trade by the
looks of it.

(quote)
I use a material called "Lab Metal" to fill pits and imperfections in cast
aluminium thermoforming moulds. Amazing stuff. One part aluminium putty,
comes in two
versions, regular and high heat. The high heat will take 1000 F IIRC, the
regular around 400 + F.
Not cheap, but a little can goes a long way. I get it at the local welding
supply store. Also available at the local FASTENAL store, and probably at an
industrial supplier near you.

complete with independent confirmation and link.

(quote) We use it also... before powder coating.
Eastwood Co has it online: http://makeashorterlink.com/?E2D5164EC
David

and they are both ignored completely.

(quote) I think I'll try the aluminium brazing (or maybe it's soldering) rod
first. A number of people on the net have reported success. Thanks. Joe.

Makes me larf... This is a dam good NG, lots of cleaver folk willing to part
with some tips.

best of luck, maybe it's the 'Not cheap' that put him off?

No, it wasn't, as a matter of fact. It was the opportunity to try a new
process.

Another time I'd use the lab metal, as it's hard to get the brazing metal
to build adequately. But I don't think the effort was wasted.

Joe

wrote in
:

snip

best of luck, maybe it's the 'Not cheap' that put him off?