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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Centre drill are often used as spotting drills in the lathe
but there's a pretty wild mismatch between center drill point angles and the the usual jobber drill that follows. Special spotting drills are produced for NC use at about three times the price of similar centre drills. How do the special features work and are they worth the premium price? Some seem to be single flute designs and the included angle is usually less thqn 118 deg jobber drill angle. What's the experience in using these items and what's the reasoning behind the design differences? Jim -- Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service -------http://www.NewsDemon.com------ Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access |
#2
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#3
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,uk.rec.models.engineering
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wrote:
Centre drill are often used as spotting drills in the lathe but there's a pretty wild mismatch between center drill point angles and the the usual jobber drill that follows. Special spotting drills are produced for NC use at about three times the price of similar centre drills. How do the special features work and are they worth the premium price? Some seem to be single flute designs and the included angle is usually less thqn 118 deg jobber drill angle. I use them a lot on the mill, seldomn on the lathe. I like them! The keep long, because you won't drill deep holes, and you can't and should not drill holes. Just the conical part. Mine are two-fluted. Buy them! Nick -- Motor Modelle // Engine Models http://www.motor-manufaktur.de DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige http://www.yadro.de |
#4
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In article , Nick Müller
writes wrote: Centre drill are often used as spotting drills in the lathe but there's a pretty wild mismatch between center drill point angles and the the usual jobber drill that follows. Special spotting drills are produced for NC use at about three times the price of similar centre drills. How do the special features work and are they worth the premium price? Some seem to be single flute designs and the included angle is usually less thqn 118 deg jobber drill angle. I use them a lot on the mill, seldomn on the lathe. I like them! The keep long, because you won't drill deep holes, and you can't and should not drill holes. Just the conical part. Mine are two-fluted. Buy them! I have never used a spotting drill - and don't know what their construction is. However, just an alternative idea for pentagrid: have you tried stub drills. I almost always use these for starting holes, especially in small sizes. They are about half the length of a normal jobbers drill bit, and hence much stiffer, but only cost about the same or a little more. I do often spot with the very tip of a centre drill, but I'm not sure it is necessary. David -- David Littlewood |
#5
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You can buy whole drill sets (w/ the case) in the stub length, even the 115
pc set. A little pricey, tho. Stub drills can often save you a tool change, altho I'm sure the purists out there are clenching and grinding their teeth. ![]() The silver lining to breaking a jobber's length: Now you got a stubby! -- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll "David Littlewood" wrote in message news ![]() In article , Nick Müller writes wrote: Centre drill are often used as spotting drills in the lathe but there's a pretty wild mismatch between center drill point angles and the the usual jobber drill that follows. Special spotting drills are produced for NC use at about three times the price of similar centre drills. How do the special features work and are they worth the premium price? Some seem to be single flute designs and the included angle is usually less thqn 118 deg jobber drill angle. I use them a lot on the mill, seldomn on the lathe. I like them! The keep long, because you won't drill deep holes, and you can't and should not drill holes. Just the conical part. Mine are two-fluted. Buy them! I have never used a spotting drill - and don't know what their construction is. However, just an alternative idea for pentagrid: have you tried stub drills. I almost always use these for starting holes, especially in small sizes. They are about half the length of a normal jobbers drill bit, and hence much stiffer, but only cost about the same or a little more. I do often spot with the very tip of a centre drill, but I'm not sure it is necessary. David -- David Littlewood |
#6
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![]() "David Littlewood" wrote in message news ![]() In article , Nick Müller writes wrote: Centre drill are often used as spotting drills in the lathe but there's a pretty wild mismatch between center drill point angles and the the usual jobber drill that follows. Special spotting drills are produced for NC use at about three times the price of similar centre drills. How do the special features work and are they worth the premium price? Some seem to be single flute designs and the included angle is usually less thqn 118 deg jobber drill angle. I use them a lot on the mill, seldomn on the lathe. I like them! The keep long, because you won't drill deep holes, and you can't and should not drill holes. Just the conical part. Mine are two-fluted. Buy them! I have never used a spotting drill - and don't know what their construction is. However, just an alternative idea for pentagrid: have you tried stub drills. I almost always use these for starting holes, especially in small sizes. They are about half the length of a normal jobbers drill bit, and hence much stiffer, but only cost about the same or a little more. I do often spot with the very tip of a centre drill, but I'm not sure it is necessary. David -- David Littlewood What David said, but insist in a split point to insure free cutting without deflection. The web of a drill has extreme negative rake and doesn't cut worth a damn. By splitting the point, the negative rake is eliminated, replaced by a cutting edge that cuts instead of plows. The difference in starting and drilling is remarkable. Folks that came up in the shop the old way did *not* routinely use spotting drills. That's what center drills were for, along with actually drilling centers. Don't ask me how I know this-----it's hard enough getting old without someone bringing it to your attention. Spotting drills are really a tool of the CNC age, where it's important to have a device that will start a hole where it's desired and not worry about breaking the tip off, which is common in center drill use, particularly when you get down to a #1 or smaller. By virtue of the grind design, spotting drills have virtually no web, so they behave much like a split point drill. Their short length provides rigidity and insures that the hole you drill will be where desired, and the grind permits easy evacuation of the chips that are generated. The tip is far more robust than that of a small center drill. Because of my training, and the era in which I spent my time in commercial shops, I do not use them, nor have I ever. Harold |
#7
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,uk.rec.models.engineering
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![]() "David Littlewood" wrote in message news ![]() In article , Nick Müller writes wrote: Centre drill are often used as spotting drills in the lathe but there's a pretty wild mismatch between center drill point angles and the the usual jobber drill that follows. Special spotting drills are produced for NC use at about three times the price of similar centre drills. How do the special features work and are they worth the premium price? Some seem to be single flute designs and the included angle is usually less thqn 118 deg jobber drill angle. I use them a lot on the mill, seldomn on the lathe. I like them! The keep long, because you won't drill deep holes, and you can't and should not drill holes. Just the conical part. Mine are two-fluted. Buy them! I have never used a spotting drill - and don't know what their construction is. However, just an alternative idea for pentagrid: have you tried stub drills. I almost always use these for starting holes, especially in small sizes. They are about half the length of a normal jobbers drill bit, and hence much stiffer, but only cost about the same or a little more. I do often spot with the very tip of a centre drill, but I'm not sure it is necessary. David -- David Littlewood I tend to use sheet metal drills for hole starting. They are very short and are double ended. you can break twice as many for the same price! |
#8
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In article , Tom Miller
writes I tend to use sheet metal drills for hole starting. They are very short and are double ended. you can break twice as many for the same price! Sheet metal drills? David -- David Littlewood |
#9
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![]() "David Littlewood" wrote in message ... In article , Tom Miller writes I tend to use sheet metal drills for hole starting. They are very short and are double ended. you can break twice as many for the same price! Sheet metal drills? David -- David Littlewood They are ground to a sort of a cusp - centre point and also cutting edge at the periphery of the flutes AWEM |
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