Ignoramus23984 wrote:
OK... I think that I have the answer... I have a 8x4 wooden
board/member. If I place one end of it in the middle of my tailgate,
and the other on the ground, it becomes a relatively secure slide for
those 152 lbs devices. There is about 10-12" drop from the end of the
tailgate to the board, but, I think, I should be able to handle that
easily. Lowering that thing to the ground is what is troublesome.

The device is similar to this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7591573234

i

Hi Iggy:

Is there any way to suspend from an overhead point in the garage? If
so this can be the faster, safer and cheaper route to go. Heck. it's
only 150# and almost anything is sturdy enough to handle the weight
without extra bracing. If you weigh at least 150# just give it a try.

dennis
in nca

On 3 Mar 2006 09:11:14 -0800, "rigger" wrote:

Is there any way to suspend from an overhead point in the garage?

Of course, my GF does this to me all the time, while she whips my lil
fanny.

wrote in message
news
On 3 Mar 2006 09:11:14 -0800, "rigger" wrote:

Is there any way to suspend from an overhead point in the garage?

Of course, my GF does this to me all the time, while she whips my lil
fanny.

check out www.bungeesex.com

rigger wrote:
Ignoramus23984 wrote:
OK... I think that I have the answer... I have a 8x4 wooden
board/member. If I place one end of it in the

Is there any way to suspend from an overhead point in the garage? If
so this can be the faster, safer and cheaper route to go. Heck. it's
only 150# and almost anything is sturdy enough to handle the weight
without extra bracing. If you weigh at least 150# just give it a try.

dennis
in nca

Woops. Just read the other 51 posts.
First, the 150 is not much. When I unloaded my 150# anvil last year I
picked it off and set it down, by hand, with no problem (and I'm
retired, by the way). However, because of the dimensions of your piece
I wouldn't try it that way. You say it's too much hassle to hang a
"fall" but what about one of those little 500# or 1000# cap. jobs from
HF? Or one of those little rigs used for dressing game?
I wouldn't even use those however (even though I have a couple). I'd
only use about 3 turns of suitable line (heavy nylon, 1/2" or so)
around the overhead support and let the friction control the decent.
Should only take a couple of minutes.

dennis
in nca

"rigger" wrote in message
ups.com...

Ignoramus23984 wrote:
OK... I think that I have the answer... I have a 8x4 wooden
board/member. If I place one end of it in the middle of my tailgate,
and the other on the ground, it becomes a relatively secure slide for
those 152 lbs devices. There is about 10-12" drop from the end of the
tailgate to the board, but, I think, I should be able to handle that
easily. Lowering that thing to the ground is what is troublesome.

The device is similar to this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7591573234

i

Hi Iggy:

Is there any way to suspend from an overhead point in the garage? If
so this can be the faster, safer and cheaper route to go. Heck. it's
only 150# and almost anything is sturdy enough to handle the weight
without extra bracing. If you weigh at least 150# just give it a try.

dennis
in nca


As a rigger, I am surprised you would suggest or condone this. Ceiling
ratings in garages are usually rated at 10# per square foot, and yes, you
can put a 4 by on top of the rafters perpendicular.

It may work. It may not. If it does not, the results can be catastrophic.
At the least, it will probably stress the roof, and may cause some of the
drywall nails/screws/mud to pop. Or a tape seam to split.

I would suggest getting some old timbers, either 4x4 or larger, building a
temporary frame, and lifting with a come-along. All you have to do is lift
it one inch and drive out. Think simple.

A ramp would be quick and easy, too. A sheet of 3/4" plywood with eight or
ten 2x4 stiffeners underneath cut at an angle to meet the plywood.

If you do try the garage thing, keep us posted.

Steve

Steve B wrote:
"rigger" wrote in message

Hi Iggy:

Is there any way to suspend from an overhead point in the garage? If
so this can be the faster, safer and cheaper route to go. Heck. it's
only 150# and almost anything is sturdy enough to handle the weight
without extra bracing. If you weigh at least 150# just give it a try.

dennis
in nca


As a rigger, I am surprised you would suggest or condone this. Ceiling
ratings in garages are usually rated at 10# per square foot, and yes, you
can put a 4 by on top of the rafters perpendicular.

First of all Steve I was a rigger from '63 to about '76 so if there
have been newer developments I may not be aware of them. I moved on to
other aspects of the machinery industry at that time.

That being said I'm sure you know next to nothing about lifting and
moving machinery. I'd be willing also to guess you have no practical
experience in any of the construction trades either. How about this:
Go into your garage and try it before you offer any more criticism.
Perhaps you can then let us know your experiences, as I have done and I
weigh somewhat more than 150#.

It may work. It may not. If it does not, the results can be catastrophic.
At the least, it will probably stress the roof, and may cause some of the
drywall nails/screws/mud to pop. Or a tape seam to split.

Again, your lack of experience is glaring.

I would suggest getting some old timbers, either 4x4 or larger, building a
temporary frame, and lifting with a come-along. All you have to do is lift
it one inch and drive out. Think simple.

What you suggest is not simple.

A ramp would be quick and easy, too. A sheet of 3/4" plywood with eight or
ten 2x4 stiffeners underneath cut at an angle to meet the plywood.

Let me explain something to you Steve and to anyone else who may be
interested.
While spending 13 years moving machinery non-stop I managed to learn a
few things. Because I enjoy lurking on this group and learning,
learning, learning about metalworking I'm happy to contribute what I
can.

The ideas I offer this group are based on experience, not conjecture.
I also take into account the differences in members ages and physical
size. When you supervise crews of riggers this is what you must do to
insure safety. I deliberately do not suggest moves which are
inherently dangerous as you'd see if you'd read earlier posts by me on
these subjects.

If others have ideas that sound workable and safe you'll never find me
denigrating them because I realize others may or may not have the self
confidence to try other, less complex methods. And besides some times
it's enjoyable to come up with elegant solutions.

If you do try the garage thing, keep us posted.

In order to contribute to this thread how about trying the experiment
I've done. My test was in the center of a 2x4, on edge, between the
overhead door and the center of the garage. The 2x4 was supported near
the door and had bracing attached to the roof trusses 12 feet away, I
was in the center of this 12' span. This a garage built in the mid
'70s and in good condition. When I suspended myself at this point (and
I chose the 2x4 with the most visible "checking") one tiny creak was
the only negative result and when I hauled myself up and down and swung
on the rope no further signs of stress were evident.

The reason for not resting another 2x4 (or similar) across 2 or more
rafters is because it will tend to roll like a wheel when you try to
lower the weight thus loosing the mechanical advantage you have from
friction. Besides on a weight this low you don't need to complicate
the issue. The other reason I didn't suggest this is because I don't
like the idea of driving nails through the cross piece into the rafters
degrading (I believe) the integrity of the rafters. If I'm way off on
this it would be nice if someone lets me know.

If you do perform this experiment please let us know the results.

dennis
in nca

"rigger" wrote

WHOLE BUNCHA STUFF SNIPPED

I have worked in the trades. I was a commercial diver. I was a certified
crane operator on drilling platforms in the Gulf of Mexico. I worked
assembling and disassembling derricks. I was a steel erection contractor in
the State of Nevada for nine years.

All required rigging knowledge.

I was certified by Offshore Petroleum Institute, the regulatory agency at
that time. I have attended many inhouse training programs and union held
classes on rigging that were recognized and sanctioned by OSHA.

I do know one or two things:

I have enough experience to know that if you try to lift things with rafter
trusses, it will work, or if will fail.

I know that if you ask a structural engineer if it will work, they will
simply tell you it is a bad idea.

I know if you go by the book, lifting by attaching to rafters is a no no.
Especially when they are probably 2 x 4s.

I know that there are about ten thousand better ways to make this lift
safely.

Like I said, hook it up. Lift it up. It will either succeed or fail. I
have made many lifts and procedures that were out of the bounds of what it
said in the book, and they worked.

Just watch from a safe position. Cause sometimes they work and sometimes
they don't. And that even goes for things you do the right way.

Whatever anyone does in the privacy of their own garage don't affect my
life.

Steve

Steve B wrote:
"rigger" wrote

WHOLE BUNCHA STUFF SNIPPED

I have worked in the trades. I was a commercial diver. I was a certified
crane operator on drilling platforms in the Gulf of Mexico. I worked
assembling and disassembling derricks. I was a steel erection contractor in
the State of Nevada for nine years.

All required rigging knowledge.

I was certified by Offshore Petroleum Institute, the regulatory agency at
that time. I have attended many inhouse training programs and union held
classes on rigging that were recognized and sanctioned by OSHA.

I do know one or two things:

I have enough experience to know that if you try to lift things with rafter
trusses, it will work, or if will fail.

I know that if you ask a structural engineer if it will work, they will
simply tell you it is a bad idea.

I know if you go by the book, lifting by attaching to rafters is a no no.
Especially when they are probably 2 x 4s.

I know that there are about ten thousand better ways to make this lift
safely.

Like I said, hook it up. Lift it up. It will either succeed or fail. I
have made many lifts and procedures that were out of the bounds of what it
said in the book, and they worked.

Just watch from a safe position. Cause sometimes they work and sometimes
they don't. And that even goes for things you do the right way.

Whatever anyone does in the privacy of their own garage don't affect my
life.

Steve

Good experience Steve but I see none in construction trades dealing
with this kind of thing. Why not try being realistic and realize we're
discussing 150# here.

Did you happen to try the experiment I suggested? Or perhaps you might
think something this practical has no validity?

dennis
in nca

"rigger" wrote

Good experience Steve but I see none in construction trades dealing
with this kind of thing. Why not try being realistic and realize we're
discussing 150# here.

Did you happen to try the experiment I suggested? Or perhaps you might
think something this practical has no validity?

dennis
in nca


Yeah. Realistically, it is entirely possible to lift such a small amount
with the raftes. But for that, I'd find a ramp or dock or berm. Or just get
a couple of workers. 150# is not a lot.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:fg2Of.326$wp.67@fed1read12...

"rigger" wrote

WHOLE BUNCHA STUFF SNIPPED

I have worked in the trades. I was a commercial diver. I was a certified
crane operator on drilling platforms in the Gulf of Mexico. I worked
assembling and disassembling derricks. I was a steel erection contractor
in the State of Nevada for nine years.

All required rigging knowledge.

I was certified by Offshore Petroleum Institute, the regulatory agency at
that time. I have attended many inhouse training programs and union held
classes on rigging that were recognized and sanctioned by OSHA.

I do know one or two things:

I have enough experience to know that if you try to lift things with
rafter trusses, it will work, or if will fail.

I know that if you ask a structural engineer if it will work, they will
simply tell you it is a bad idea.

I know if you go by the book, lifting by attaching to rafters is a no no.
Especially when they are probably 2 x 4s.

I know that there are about ten thousand better ways to make this lift
safely.

Like I said, hook it up. Lift it up. It will either succeed or fail. I
have made many lifts and procedures that were out of the bounds of what it
said in the book, and they worked.

Just watch from a safe position. Cause sometimes they work and sometimes
they don't. And that even goes for things you do the right way.

Whatever anyone does in the privacy of their own garage don't affect my
life.

Steve

Shoot for 150# I would just get my "little" boy to grab one in each hand and
put em where I want em

In article fg2Of.326$wp.67@fed1read12, Steve B
wrote:

"rigger" wrote

WHOLE BUNCHA STUFF SNIPPED

I have worked in the trades. I was a commercial diver. I was a certified
crane operator on drilling platforms in the Gulf of Mexico. I worked
assembling and disassembling derricks. I was a steel erection contractor in
the State of Nevada for nine years.

All required rigging knowledge.

I was certified by Offshore Petroleum Institute, the regulatory agency at
that time. I have attended many inhouse training programs and union held
classes on rigging that were recognized and sanctioned by OSHA.

I do know one or two things:

I have enough experience to know that if you try to lift things with rafter
trusses, it will work, or if will fail.

I know that if you ask a structural engineer if it will work, they will
simply tell you it is a bad idea.

Actually, that's not true, and I have a structural certificate from a
practising engineer to show for my asking. Told him I wanted to lift a
max of 500kg from the centre point of a 7.2m span truss and he told me
what size truss I needed to order from the manufacturer.

He also said that up to 200kg, don't worry about it. That's the SWL
anyway. NB, I said SWL, not max load before failure.

YMMV if you have poor engineering standards where you live.

PDW

"Peter Wiley" wrote

That's the SWL
anyway. NB, I said SWL, not max load before failure.

YMMV if you have poor engineering standards where you live.

PDW

In your case, was it small residential class framing, or heavier stuff? I
have seen some old barns and garages that had beams in their truss structure
that you probably could have lifted a car with, and surely pull an engine.

If your neighborhood is like mine is getting, I wouldn't trust the wood, the
construction, or the framers. That is, if I spoke the same language as the
framers and understood what they were talking about.

Steve