I hate the crud that collects in the control joints of my shop floor.
Every so often when I get a wild hair, I open the doors and blow out the
dust/chips/invisible screws, etc with compressed air. It would be better
if the control joints were filled level with the rest of the floor.

But what's the best thing to put in there? A sealant (presumably over
backer rod)? Some kind of insert? What?

Thanks!

Jim

Jim Wilson wrote:

I hate the crud that collects in the control joints of my shop floor.
Every so often when I get a wild hair, I open the doors and blow out the
dust/chips/invisible screws, etc with compressed air. It would be better
if the control joints were filled level with the rest of the floor.

But what's the best thing to put in there? A sealant (presumably over
backer rod)? Some kind of insert? What?

Thanks!

Jim

How about the elastomeric sealant made for the purpose which is normally
used without a backer rod on control joints. It's is only used with a
backer rod for exceptionally deep cracks / joints such as may be found
between adjacent slabs or a slab and a foundation. Should be available
from numerous suppliers including Home Depot and Lowe's.

Pete C.

In article ,
Jim Wilson wrote:

But what's the best thing to put in there? A sealant (presumably over
backer rod)? Some kind of insert? What?

I used caulk. I don't recall for sure, probably polyurethane, quite
possibly of the "supposed to be particularly compatible with
cement/concrete" flavor, whether or not that means anything. It was the
same price per volume as the other flavors, and didn't take all that
much anyway (sawn joints). I did not bother with backer rod. Then I
painted the floor flat white. Works for me.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

I use a product called 'SL-1'
http://www.chemrex.com/productcatalo...asp?prodID=315
There are some similar brands elsewhere. Not real cheap, figure $4 to $5
a tube.

It comes in a standard calking gun tube, cures to a very stretchy
urathane gap filler. The SL stands for 'self leveling'. It comes out of
the tube like caulk but will flow out after 15 to 30 minutes. Can ONLY
be used on LEVEL floors with a COMPLETE backer rod. You need to let it
set overnight.

Jim Wilson wrote:
I hate the crud that collects in the control joints of my shop floor.
Every so often when I get a wild hair, I open the doors and blow out the
dust/chips/invisible screws, etc with compressed air. It would be better
if the control joints were filled level with the rest of the floor.

But what's the best thing to put in there? A sealant (presumably over
backer rod)? Some kind of insert? What?

Thanks!

Jim

On Thu, 09 Feb 2006 21:28:01 GMT, RoyJ wrote:

I use a product called 'SL-1'
http://www.chemrex.com/productcatalo...asp?prodID=315
There are some similar brands elsewhere. Not real cheap, figure $4 to $5
a tube.

It comes in a standard calking gun tube, cures to a very stretchy
urathane gap filler. The SL stands for 'self leveling'. It comes out of
the tube like caulk but will flow out after 15 to 30 minutes. Can ONLY
be used on LEVEL floors with a COMPLETE backer rod. You need to let it
set overnight.
The purpose of the backer rod is to limit the depth of sealant,
thereby ensuring that it will stretch without pulling away from the
slab edges as the slabs move. Another benefit is to limit the quantity
of sealant used. Joint edges must be very clean and some sealants
require special primers. To be successful, the manufacturers
installation must be followed to the letter.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Thanks, everyone!

Jim