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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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![]() "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... You apparently have never honed a reamed hole. The typical reamed hole is scarcely qualified to be considered precise, let alone VERY precise. I'll agree that a well reamed hole is drastically improved over the typical drilled hole, however. Reamed holes are a distant second to properly bored holes and aren't even in the running when compared to honed bores. Reamers are notorious for generating multi-sided holes with bell mouthed conditions. I thought boring and honing were fairly bad for leaving bell mouthed holes (although they're certainly round)? Not to say it's impossible to get a correct profile with a boring or honing tool, but they're not exactly perfect. Regards, Robin |
#2
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![]() "Robin S." wrote in message .. . "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... You apparently have never honed a reamed hole. The typical reamed hole is scarcely qualified to be considered precise, let alone VERY precise. I'll agree that a well reamed hole is drastically improved over the typical drilled hole, however. Reamed holes are a distant second to properly bored holes and aren't even in the running when compared to honed bores. Reamers are notorious for generating multi-sided holes with bell mouthed conditions. I thought boring and honing were fairly bad for leaving bell mouthed holes (although they're certainly round)? Not to say it's impossible to get a correct profile with a boring or honing tool, but they're not exactly perfect. Regards, Robin There is no reason for a boring bar to leave a bell mouth in a hole. A hole that is bored with a sharp instrument and proper feed should yield a roundness in keeping with the bearings of the spindle. Cutting pressure should remain constant from one end to the other, thus should yield a bore that is round and parallel in all respects, assuming the cutting edge is not dull and dragging. Tool wear can be the one variable, but is generally not enough to effect a bore size unless one is boring particularly nasty material. Honing is extremely precise, but in the hands of a fool it surely could leave a bell mouthed hole. My personal experience as a grinder and tool maker have proven to more than my satisfaction that honing is likely the most precise of all methods to achieve round, straight holes. I would place an internal grinder next. One of the projects I had to make was a set of 3/4" ring gages with a tolerance of only .000020". Holding the bores straight and round on a hone is absolutely no problem is you apply the tool properly, and it was the tool used to size the bores of the gages. They were inspected by a certified secondary standards lab and were within limits. By their very nature (by design), honing mandrels have a constant truing, or correcting action. A hole that is out of round and tapered is easily brought round and straight. Understand that the mandrels must be of the rigid variety. The spring loaded cylinder hones one uses for cleaning up a brake cylinder are virtually worthless, and yes, they do yield bellmouthed holes. They have no reason not to. If in the process of your apprenticeship you have the opportunity to run any grinding and/or honing equipment, I think you'll quickly come to understand the things I've mentioned. Grinding and jib bore/grinding operating are the ultimate expression of precision work. Harold |
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