I recommend you not clean your machine stuff with parts cleaning solvent
(degreaser).

Last week I went to pick up a 8" Spacer that I had won on eBay. The seller
had a whole area of his large production shop set aside and staged with
extra and machine shop equipment and accessories. Every item was clean and
bright.

In addition to the Phase II Spacer, I purchased a 4" Dividing Head w/4
plates and a 10" four jaw D1-4 chuck.

After a long drive home, I unloaded them in my unheated work shop. I live in
the Pac. NW and cold metal gets damp and flash rusts if it isn't lightly
oiled.

You guessed it. These new treasures were so clean that they flash rust over
night. I was sick since the bright finish of yesterday was now a cool copper
color on all surfaces.

I tired wiping it with a lightly oiled rag but all I got was rust stains on
the rag the smeared onto any surface that hadn't flashed yet.

I've got it under control but I'm not sure what procedure I should follow to
get it back to bright and unstained again.

The best I can figure, is they ran these items through a solvent degreaser
since the internal parts don't seem to have any lubricant remaining.

Just my opinion and experience, FWIW.

Steve

Soak/spray them w/ any nondetergent oil for protection, esp. the innards.
PB Blaster and Kroil will remove the "flash rust", to a large degree, and
protect the metal--seems to soak in.
WD40, in light of my recent exp. w/ Blaster/Kroil, is a few cuts above
water.

You can find aerosol PB Blaster at some autoparts strores, but the gallon
cans of Blaster or Kroil must be bought direct. Costco atomizers work well
for spritzing metal around the shop.

I spray Blaster on lathe ways, after they're wiped by the carriage or
tailstock. Someone made a blend of oil using Marvel Mystery Oil for this,
as well. I'm thinking of mixing something w/ Blaster for a little more
viscosity.
Yeah, greasy, crappy shops are rust-free shops!
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Steve" wrote in message
...
I recommend you not clean your machine stuff with parts cleaning solvent
(degreaser).

Last week I went to pick up a 8" Spacer that I had won on eBay. The seller
had a whole area of his large production shop set aside and staged with
extra and machine shop equipment and accessories. Every item was clean and
bright.

In addition to the Phase II Spacer, I purchased a 4" Dividing Head w/4
plates and a 10" four jaw D1-4 chuck.

After a long drive home, I unloaded them in my unheated work shop. I live
in the Pac. NW and cold metal gets damp and flash rusts if it isn't
lightly oiled.

You guessed it. These new treasures were so clean that they flash rust
over night. I was sick since the bright finish of yesterday was now a cool
copper color on all surfaces.

I tired wiping it with a lightly oiled rag but all I got was rust stains
on the rag the smeared onto any surface that hadn't flashed yet.

I've got it under control but I'm not sure what procedure I should follow
to get it back to bright and unstained again.

The best I can figure, is they ran these items through a solvent degreaser
since the internal parts don't seem to have any lubricant remaining.

Just my opinion and experience, FWIW.

Steve

Do you use PB on your ways??
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Soak/spray them w/ any nondetergent oil for protection, esp. the innards.
PB Blaster and Kroil will remove the "flash rust", to a large degree, and
protect the metal--seems to soak in.
WD40, in light of my recent exp. w/ Blaster/Kroil, is a few cuts above
water.

You can find aerosol PB Blaster at some autoparts strores, but the gallon
cans of Blaster or Kroil must be bought direct. Costco atomizers work
well for spritzing metal around the shop.

I spray Blaster on lathe ways, after they're wiped by the carriage or
tailstock. Someone made a blend of oil using Marvel Mystery Oil for this,
as well. I'm thinking of mixing something w/ Blaster for a little more
viscosity.
Yeah, greasy, crappy shops are rust-free shops!
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Steve" wrote in message
...
I recommend you not clean your machine stuff with parts cleaning solvent
(degreaser).

Last week I went to pick up a 8" Spacer that I had won on eBay. The
seller had a whole area of his large production shop set aside and staged
with extra and machine shop equipment and accessories. Every item was
clean and bright.

In addition to the Phase II Spacer, I purchased a 4" Dividing Head w/4
plates and a 10" four jaw D1-4 chuck.

After a long drive home, I unloaded them in my unheated work shop. I live
in the Pac. NW and cold metal gets damp and flash rusts if it isn't
lightly oiled.

You guessed it. These new treasures were so clean that they flash rust
over night. I was sick since the bright finish of yesterday was now a
cool copper color on all surfaces.

I tired wiping it with a lightly oiled rag but all I got was rust stains
on the rag the smeared onto any surface that hadn't flashed yet.

I've got it under control but I'm not sure what procedure I should follow
to get it back to bright and unstained again.

The best I can figure, is they ran these items through a solvent
degreaser since the internal parts don't seem to have any lubricant
remaining.

Just my opinion and experience, FWIW.

Steve

WD-40

racing John wrote:

WD-40


To finish racing John's terse posting, AVOID WD-40 AT ALL COSTS.

It isn't an anti-rust oil.

It isn't a lubricant.

It isn't a penetrating oil.

It is basically kerosene with perfume that has been massively overmarketed.

Good antirust oils are what they sell in gun shops, or just use way oil.

Good lubricants are usually specified in machine manuals, but nondetergent 10 wt
motor oil is pretty good to start with.

Good penetrating oils include Kroil, Aero-Kroil, PB Blaster and others.

GWE

On Thu, 26 Jan 2006 22:16:50 -0500, (racing John)
wrote:

WD-40
NO NO NO!!!!
WD 40 is USELESS.except to chase moisture off the surface.
A mixture of wd40 and ATF works pretty good - or wd40 and chainsaw bar
oil.
Laquer thinners and chain bar oil may work just as well. (but may be
harder on paint)

Hmmm, I agree and don't.

Yes, WD-40 is a crappy oil, but it cleans way better than kero!

Dave

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
racing John wrote:

WD-40


To finish racing John's terse posting, AVOID WD-40 AT ALL COSTS.

It isn't an anti-rust oil.

It isn't a lubricant.

It isn't a penetrating oil.

It is basically kerosene with perfume that has been massively
overmarketed.

Indeed.
However, a cupla people asserted that wd40 is the best tapping fluid for
aluminum they've ever used!

WD40 bought out 3-in-1, and I think a cupla others--cornered the effing
market w/ their own crappy product.
I wonder how they did that? Sorta the Microsoft of spray oil....
Yet, they explicitly *claim* all that you correctly observe wd40 is not. In
a thread some time ago, someone asserted that wd40 never claimed to be a
lubricant, but indeed they do!

You can't appreciate how useless wd40 really is until you've tried the other
stuff.

Another product I like (found it at home depot) is Corrosion Pro by
lubrimatic, a "spray grease" that seems to be sorta between an oil and chain
lube for motorcycles.

Speaking of which, chain lube for cycles is great stuff also, if you want
stuff to really hang on. Some have moly, lithium, etc. Sorta like a
lower-viscosity cosmoline g, might be great for the OP.

Kroil or PB also makes sumpn w/ graphite in it, as well.
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll



Good antirust oils are what they sell in gun shops, or just use way oil.

Good lubricants are usually specified in machine manuals, but nondetergent
10 wt motor oil is pretty good to start with.

Good penetrating oils include Kroil, Aero-Kroil, PB Blaster and others.

GWE

Rust Lick makes some nice products for this too.

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Soak/spray them w/ any nondetergent oil for protection, esp. the innards.
PB Blaster and Kroil will remove the "flash rust", to a large degree, and
protect the metal--seems to soak in.
WD40, in light of my recent exp. w/ Blaster/Kroil, is a few cuts above
water.

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:

However, a cupla people asserted that wd40 is the best tapping fluid for
aluminum they've ever used!

Kerosene is perhaps the most common cutting fluid for aluminum, and WD-40 being
largely kerosene, it ought to work. I buy my kerosene a gallon at a time, costs
a couple of bucks. Those spray cans of WD-40 cost what? Who cares? Why pay it?

GWE

Those posters seemed to indicate that wd40 was better than plain kerosene.
But it would be interesting to do an A/B comparison, to see if there really
is a diff.
..
fyi, a gallon of wd40 from HD is about $10-11.
Mebbe sprinkle a little perfume in yer $2 gal of kerosene, a little
graphite, and voila, DIY wd40!!

Yeah, calc out the cost/gal of wd40 in those li'l midget purse-sized spays.
Really cute, really good marketing, proly calcs out to $150/gal!
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Proctologically Violated©® wrote:

However, a cupla people asserted that wd40 is the best tapping fluid for
aluminum they've ever used!

Kerosene is perhaps the most common cutting fluid for aluminum, and WD-40
being largely kerosene, it ought to work. I buy my kerosene a gallon at a
time, costs a couple of bucks. Those spray cans of WD-40 cost what? Who
cares? Why pay it?

GWE

Second that, Grant!
Bob Swinney
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
racing John wrote:

WD-40


To finish racing John's terse posting, AVOID WD-40 AT ALL COSTS.

It isn't an anti-rust oil.

It isn't a lubricant.

It isn't a penetrating oil.

It is basically kerosene with perfume that has been massively
overmarketed.

Good antirust oils are what they sell in gun shops, or just use way oil.

Good lubricants are usually specified in machine manuals, but nondetergent
10 wt motor oil is pretty good to start with.

Good penetrating oils include Kroil, Aero-Kroil, PB Blaster and others.

GWE

Wipe some WD-40 on the anvil of your micrometer and see how well it cleans.
Then figure out some way to remove the film it leaves, which BTW, you can
measure since your mic won't completely close anymore.

Bob Swinney
wrote in message
ups.com...
Hmmm, I agree and don't.

Yes, WD-40 is a crappy oil, but it cleans way better than kero!

Dave