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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Locking carriage/slides on a manual lathe
Awl--
I have a 13x40 Enco, but set up really nice--x,yDRO, snap handle 5C, Aloris, cam-lock chucks, new bearings, really kept nice by the original owner. You'd almost think it was American-made. In fact, the owner did so much work on it, he taped "Made in America" over the "made in china" tag! Also, the bed is closer to 50", past the nose! However, I don't see the traditional lockdown screws on the carriage or cross-slide. Am I just missing something? Is it possible that some lathes simply don't have these? If this is so, what do one do? For the carriage, I could see clamping blocks on either side of the carriage, down on the ways. Improvising a lockdown on the crossslide seems more elusive. Any idears?? -- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll |
#2
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Locking carriage/slides on a manual lathe
Enco has a lot of manuals available for download. Did you look for
the one you need? It should have drawings and a parts list. Proctologically Violated©® wrote: However, I don't see the traditional lockdown screws on the carriage or cross-slide. Am I just missing something? Is it possible that some lathes simply don't have these? If this is so, what do one do? For the carriage, I could see clamping blocks on either side of the carriage, down on the ways. Improvising a lockdown on the crossslide seems more elusive. |
#3
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Locking carriage/slides on a manual lathe
My EMCO lathe cross slide has a screw on the side that will press the
gib tightly and this will lock it. Maybe yours has this, also. I replaced the origional screw with a long socket head cap screw so I could find it when the compound is turned so it covers the area. Paul |
#4
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Locking carriage/slides on a manual lathe
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote:
Awl-- I have a 13x40 Enco, but set up really nice--x,yDRO, snap handle 5C, Aloris, cam-lock chucks, new bearings, really kept nice by the original owner. You'd almost think it was American-made. In fact, the owner did so much work on it, he taped "Made in America" over the "made in china" tag! Also, the bed is closer to 50", past the nose! As one would expect on a lathe 40" between centres. However, I don't see the traditional lockdown screws on the carriage or cross-slide. Am I just missing something? Is it possible that some lathes simply don't have these? If this is so, what do one do? For the carriage, I could see clamping blocks on either side of the carriage, down on the ways. Improvising a lockdown on the crossslide seems more elusive. Any idears?? If it has a separate feedshaft, engage the halfnuts to secure the carriage for facing. As for "traditional lockdown screws on the cross-slide" Any examples? -- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll Tom |
#5
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Locking carriage/slides on a manual lathe
"Tom" wrote in message ... "Proctologically Violated©®" wrote: Awl-- I have a 13x40 Enco, but set up really nice--x,yDRO, snap handle 5C, Aloris, cam-lock chucks, new bearings, really kept nice by the original owner. You'd almost think it was American-made. In fact, the owner did so much work on it, he taped "Made in America" over the "made in china" tag! Also, the bed is closer to 50", past the nose! As one would expect on a lathe 40" between centres. However, I don't see the traditional lockdown screws on the carriage or cross-slide. Am I just missing something? Is it possible that some lathes simply don't have these? If this is so, what do one do? For the carriage, I could see clamping blocks on either side of the carriage, down on the ways. Improvising a lockdown on the crossslide seems more elusive. Any idears?? If it has a separate feedshaft, engage the halfnuts to secure the carriage for facing. As for "traditional lockdown screws on the cross-slide" Any examples? Well, by "traditional" I mean an easily accessible screw(s) that will lock it down. Paul above cited his emco on the gibs, which is how I think Hardinge chuckers work as well. The Clausing Colchester roundheads have lock down screws--not sure if they work on the gibs or elsewhere. -- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll -- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll Tom |
#6
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Locking carriage/slides on a manual lathe
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote: I have a 13x40 Enco, but set up really nice--x,yDRO, snap handle 5C, Aloris, cam-lock chucks, new bearings, really kept nice by the original owner. You'd almost think it was American-made. In fact, the owner did so much work on it, he taped "Made in America" over the "made in china" tag! Also, the bed is closer to 50", past the nose! However, I don't see the traditional lockdown screws on the carriage or cross-slide. Am I just missing something? Is it possible that some lathes simply don't have these? My Enco 1024 has a square-head bolt head at the right rear, top of the carriage to lock it down. The manual for the 110-3110 seems to show one on the near side. What model do you have? |
#7
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Locking carriage/slides on a manual lathe
"Rex B" wrote in message ... "Proctologically Violated©®" wrote: I have a 13x40 Enco, but set up really nice--x,yDRO, snap handle 5C, Aloris, cam-lock chucks, new bearings, really kept nice by the original owner. You'd almost think it was American-made. In fact, the owner did so much work on it, he taped "Made in America" over the "made in china" tag! Also, the bed is closer to 50", past the nose! However, I don't see the traditional lockdown screws on the carriage or cross-slide. Am I just missing something? Is it possible that some lathes simply don't have these? My Enco 1024 has a square-head bolt head at the right rear, top of the carriage to lock it down. The manual for the 110-3110 seems to show one on the near side. What model do you have? OK-- Found the problems. My model is a 110-1340 (13x40). Actually, your reference to the "right rear" got me looking a little more closely back there. And in sleuthing locking alternatives, I was going to run a round rod behind and along the bed, and link this rod somehow to the carriage, to create a stop of sorts. I then noticed holes in the *back* of the carriage (that rests on the back ways), which take 8x1.25mm screws, which will lock on the vertical face of the back ways. You would *never* see these by casual inspection. So the carriage problem is solved! And not a bad way to lock the carriage. I am going to put nylon between the screw tip and the ways. As for the cross-slide, it seems that the Y encoder/glass is covering these screws, which apparently tighten the gibs. However, by bolting aluminum block to the carriage where the follower normally bolts, and suitably threading for add'l screws, I can basically lock the slide similarly, just from the other side, with the screws hitting the outside of the slide, not the gibs. But with the same effect. I am in fact extraordinarily happy with this lathe (1992 vintage)--positively spoiled by the Aloris tooling, DRO, and snap handle, as well as the cam-lock chucks. Not the brute strength/rigidity of the Clausing Colchesters I've worked on, and I could nit-pick a bit here and there, but overall a pleasure to use--largely cuz the previous owner got rid of all the bugs. Soon, tho, I'll be getting a 13x40 CC real cheap (snap handle too!), but which will need some work on the carriage. It will be interesting to do A/B comparisons. Oh yeah, did check the manual, as per one poster. Not at all helpful, but, pretty hilarious, linguistically speaking. Appreciate the feedback. -- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll |
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