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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
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We were using our Emglo and shut it down for a lunch break. When we came
back and tried to start it again all we got was a load electrical hum and sometimes it would pop our 15 amp breaker. I pulled the compressor/electric motor unit loose from the rest of the compressor so I could get to its guts. When I turned the fan blade by hand (it turned very easily) I could hear the compressor piston working. I even connected the AC power back up but still heard the hum. When I gave the fan a twist the motor started running the compressor. However, the motor won't start the compressor on its own. I tried a quick test of the start-up capacitor with my multimeter and it appears to be OK. It slowly climbs in ohms until infinity. Reversed the probes and it does the same thing. Sounds like the capacitor is OK to me. I wanted to pull the electric motor loose from the case so I could see the brushes and rotor. I removed all the mounting screws from everything I could see, but I can't seem to pull the unit apart to get to the motor. Everything is loose and I can twist the case a few degrees, but I can't pull it apart. Anybody know how I can get the motor out so I can look at its guts. Any help is appreciated. Pretend I'm a dunce and be pretty specific. Thanks, Mike |
#2
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Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
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Mike S. wrote:
We were using our Emglo and shut it down for a lunch break. When we came back and tried to start it again all we got was a load electrical hum and sometimes it would pop our 15 amp breaker. I pulled the compressor/electric motor unit loose from the rest of the compressor so I could get to its guts. When I turned the fan blade by hand (it turned very easily) I could hear the compressor piston working. I even connected the AC power back up but still heard the hum. When I gave the fan a twist the motor started running the compressor. However, the motor won't start the compressor on its own. I tried a quick test of the start-up capacitor with my multimeter and it appears to be OK. It slowly climbs in ohms until infinity. Reversed the probes and it does the same thing. Sounds like the capacitor is OK to me. I wanted to pull the electric motor loose from the case so I could see the brushes and rotor. I removed all the mounting screws from everything I could see, but I can't seem to pull the unit apart to get to the motor. Everything is loose and I can twist the case a few degrees, but I can't pull it apart. Anybody know how I can get the motor out so I can look at its guts. Any help is appreciated. Pretend I'm a dunce and be pretty specific. Thanks, Mike It's probably still the start cap. Given the relatively low expense of electrolytic capacitors, I'd just replace the start cap and see if that fixes it. My guess is it will. Take off the "bubble" on the side of the motor and look at the start cap. It may obviously be defective, or maybe you can just get the numbers off it and take them to Grainger or wherever you go to buy a new one. Easy to splice it back in, simple fix. Even if that isn't the problem it won't hurt and it will probably only cost you like $7. GWE |
#3
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Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
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Hi Grant,
It's probably still the start cap. Given the relatively low expense of electrolytic capacitors, I'd just replace the start cap and see if that fixes it. My guess is it will. Take off the "bubble" on the side of the motor and look at the start cap. It may obviously be defective, or maybe you can just get the numbers off it and take them to Grainger or wherever you go to buy a new one. Easy to splice it back in, simple fix. Even if that isn't the problem it won't hurt and it will probably only cost you like $7. Well, not quite. I've been told by two repair houses that this cap costs $50. I want to make sure it's dead before I replace it. Thanks, Mike |
#4
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Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
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Just because a cap doesn't leak at the low voltage provided by a VOM
does not mean it isn't leaking at working voltage. Try substituting another cap and see if it helps. My outside air conditioning unit was doing exactly the same thing. Diagnosis: bad starting cap. If your motor uses two caps (one for start, one for run) check the centrufugal switch that controls the caps to see if it is broken. Good luck. 73 Gary |
#5
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Gary,
Thanks for the input. I'll try to find somebody local that can do a heavy-duty test on this cap. Mike |
#6
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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oh come on, mike - a cap costs $5 to $20, just change the stupid thing
- it's almost for sure the problem, and it's cheaper than spending all week trying to test it. On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 07:35:19 -0800, "Mike S." wrote: Gary, Thanks for the input. I'll try to find somebody local that can do a heavy-duty test on this cap. Mike Bill www.wbnoble.com to contact me, do not reply to this message, instead correct this address and use it will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com |
#7
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 15:53:43 -0800, "Mike S." wrote:
We were using our Emglo and shut it down for a lunch break. When we came back and tried to start it again all we got was a load electrical hum and sometimes it would pop our 15 amp breaker. I pulled the compressor/electric motor unit loose from the rest of the compressor so I could get to its guts. When I turned the fan blade by hand (it turned very easily) I could hear the compressor piston working. I even connected the AC power back up but still heard the hum. When I gave the fan a twist the motor started running the compressor. However, the motor won't start the compressor on its own. I tried a quick test of the start-up capacitor with my multimeter and it appears to be OK. It slowly climbs in ohms until infinity. Reversed the probes and it does the same thing. Sounds like the capacitor is OK to me. I wanted to pull the electric motor loose from the case so I could see the brushes and rotor. I removed all the mounting screws from everything I could see, but I can't seem to pull the unit apart to get to the motor. Everything is loose and I can twist the case a few degrees, but I can't pull it apart. Anybody know how I can get the motor out so I can look at its guts. Any help is appreciated. Pretend I'm a dunce and be pretty specific. Thanks, Mike There aren't any brushes in an AC induction motor. Disconnect the start cap and check both leads for continuity to the plug or mains connection (with it unplugged, of course!) You should see continuity from both cap connections to both line connections, though the (low) resistances will be different. If one of them check open, there's your problem. The most likely cause is a failed centrifugal start switch. Hope someone can tell you how to get the motor loose. Most capacitor start motors have t |
#8
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Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
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We were using our Emglo and shut it down for a lunch break. When we came
back and tried to start it again all we got was a load electrical hum and sometimes it would pop our 15 amp breaker. I pulled the compressor/electric motor unit loose from the rest of the compressor so I could get to its guts. When I turned the fan blade by hand (it turned very easily) I could hear the compressor piston working. I even connected the AC power back up but still heard the hum. When I gave the fan a twist the motor started running the compressor. However, the motor won't start the compressor on its own. I tried a quick test of the start-up capacitor with my multimeter and it appears to be OK. It slowly climbs in ohms until infinity. Reversed the probes and it does the same thing. Sounds like the capacitor is OK to me. I wanted to pull the electric motor loose from the case so I could see the brushes and rotor. I removed all the mounting screws from everything I could see, but I can't seem to pull the unit apart to get to the motor. Everything is loose and I can twist the case a few degrees, but I can't pull it apart. Anybody know how I can get the motor out so I can look at its guts. Any help is appreciated. Pretend I'm a dunce and be pretty specific. Thanks, Mike Probably starting switch inside the motor that connects the cap to the windings. Try tapping on the end bell of the motor when you try to start it.... The "points" eventually get a bit pitted and blackened, and typically cleaning them up is all it will need.... HTH Ken. |
#9
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Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
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![]() Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote in message ... Probably starting switch inside the motor that connects the cap to the windings. Try tapping on the end bell of the motor when you try to start it.... The "points" eventually get a bit pitted and blackened, and typically cleaning them up is all it will need.... HTH Ken. So if that's the case, how do I get to them? Mike |
#10
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Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
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![]() Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote in message ... Probably starting switch inside the motor that connects the cap to the windings. Try tapping on the end bell of the motor when you try to start it.... The "points" eventually get a bit pitted and blackened, and typically cleaning them up is all it will need.... HTH Ken. So if that's the case, how do I get to them? Mike Mike, Having trouble finding any kind of info on that particular model - AM78-HV4V...... From your original post, it sounds like this is just a motor, with a pulley, driving a larger pulley via a belt, as you mentioned giving the "fan" a spin. Anyway, ya gotta locate the motor, and take the end bell off to gain access to a centrifugal switch internal to the motor. The switch has a set of contact points on it which close with the motor at rest, putting the cap into the circuit. When the motor starts up, centrifugal force causes the switch to open up and takes the cap out of the circuit until it's needed for the next start. Arcing, pitting, dust, dirt, etc., can keep the contacts from making contact with each other when the motor is at rest. I suggested tapping on the end bell of the motor when trying to start it as sometimes that will let the contacts actually touch each other and get the cap in the circuit to start the motor. That will tell you if the cap is good or not as well as letting you know that the contacts are dirty. I can't see the motor so it's hard to tell you how to take it apart. Sorry. Ken. |
#11
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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replying to Mike S., josh wrote:
no wrote: We were using our Emglo and shut it down for a lunch break. When we came back and tried to start it again all we got was a load electrical hum and sometimes it would pop our 15 amp breaker. I pulled the compressor/electric motor unit loose from the rest of the compressor so I could get to its guts. When I turned the fan blade by hand (it turned very easily) I could hear the compressor piston working. I even connected the AC power back up but still heard the hum. When I gave the fan a twist the motor started running the compressor. However, the motor won't start the compressor on its own. I tried a quick test of the start-up capacitor with my multimeter and it appears to be OK. It slowly climbs in ohms until infinity. Reversed the probes and it does the same thing. Sounds like the capacitor is OK to me. I wanted to pull the electric motor loose from the case so I could see the brushes and rotor. I removed all the mounting screws from everything I could see, but I can't seem to pull the unit apart to get to the motor. Everything is loose and I can twist the case a few degrees, but I can't pull it apart. Anybody know how I can get the motor out so I can look at its guts. Any help is appreciated. Pretend I'm a dunce and be pretty specific. Thanks, Mike Mike, I know this is OLD, but did you ever find out how to get inside to the centrifugal switch? I have one w/the same symptoms and I don't wanna ruin a $50 cap if the switch is stuck closed. -- posted from http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...or-467755-.htm using PolytechForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to rec.crafts.metalworking and other engineering groups |
#12
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josh fired this
volley in oups.com: When I gave the fan a twist the motor started running the compressor. However, the motor won't start the compressor on its own. You never said anything about checking the unloader valve. The Emglo compressors ALL have unloader valves (most compressors do), and the compressors don't have a hope of starting up with any residual pressure in the tank unless it's working. LLoyd |
#13
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On 2014-03-29, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
josh fired this volley in oups.com: When I gave the fan a twist the motor started running the compressor. However, the motor won't start the compressor on its own. You never said anything about checking the unloader valve. The Emglo compressors ALL have unloader valves (most compressors do), and the compressors don't have a hope of starting up with any residual pressure in the tank unless it's working. Or -- assuming a single-phase induction motor -- the start cap could be blown, so it does not get that initial motion necessary for the induction to generate pole pieces in the right place to pull the motor round. (I didn't see the original posting -- could he be in my killfile somehow?) Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#14
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"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
: Or -- assuming a single-phase induction motor -- the start cap could be blown, so it does not get that initial motion necessary for the induction to generate pole pieces in the right place to pull the motor round. (I didn't see the original posting -- could he be in my killfile somehow?) He checked all that, Don. Then, just turning the motor over by HAND, it would start... that tells me it was dead-heading against pressure. Lloyd |
#15
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replying to Lloyd E. Sponenburgh , josh wrote:
lol. the original question was also how to separate the motor from the pump to inspect the centrifugal switch. pump won't start up correctly with 0 psi. please look: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/emg...189_15192.html the main shaft can't be pulled out either way that I can see. the fan has no apparent connection. it looks like it was put on and the end of the shaft was tooled somehow to keep it in place. if it was popped off, would it be conceivable to be put back on? -- posted from http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...or-467755-.htm using PolytechForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to rec.crafts.metalworking and other engineering groups |
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